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By Randall Williams
1996 5.7 no start purchased in this condition. Checked fuel pressure at crank its 55-58 psi check spark and has spark at plugs. Have installed new spider because it had a small fire under the intake burnt injector lines and had filled oil pan with fuel. Drained oil and replace oil and filter . Checked timing it was ok but can gear had some wear so replaced dist. and plugs. Have 175 lbs on compression on almost all cylinders one had 165 odometer shows 123k and the truck looks right for that. will not even try to pop?
By Matthew Andrews
Hey, so I recently changed the distributor in my 99 yukon 5.7l, and I am having a super hard time getting the cam retard back to zero. It is currently off by 30°. I have tried moving it a tooth forward and a tooth backwards and both situations result in a no-start, although at 30° it starts and runs daily but I'm pretty sure my mpg has tanked. I have reinstalled this thing like 4 times now trying to see if I can get any closer and its just not happening and I'm getting pretty frustrated.
Is there something I'm missing or forgetting? Could it be two or 3 teeth I need to skip? I tried googling but couldn't find the number of degrees each tooth consists of. Also I'm definitely reading the cam retard at above 1k rpm, and I've tried just spinning the distributor clockwise but it cant go any further without hitting the plenum.
Everything I read says this is so easy as long as you have a scanner, but theres something I'm not doing right lol. Also is there any way to try out different teeth without having to reset tdc to get it back?
Thank you for your time! Sorry if I rambled!
By Zachary Hendrix
First time poster here. I'm not sure how to ask my question without going into a fair amount of detail. I have a 1994 k1500, i bought with a messed up trans and a '350 from a suburban' - note the quotation marks. I work at a dealership and our transmission guy is really good with these transmissions so I took it out and had him rebuilt it for me and he updated all the internals to the 2006+ mechanically but electronically its still a 1994. He tells me it's good for my eventual horsepower goals (600). Everything great and fine but this truck is a dog. Misfires alot has all sorts of issues with the engine, won't idle properly, Yada Yada. I decide to pull the engine. And before we take it apart we look at the casting numbers.... It's a 305... And the heads are for a 350...
I was pretty unsure of what to do, however out of the blue I have an opportunity to buy whay should be a good 1998 350 vortec with ecm and full wiring harness for a great deal. There's enough there I have several options but my favorite, if it will work is use the ecm, the new engine and harness and plug it into my 1994 transmission. The question is, can I make it work. Will it run fine? What tuning might I need to do, or transmission modifications to make this work. I'm not opposed to swapping valve bodies and/or tcc solenoids to make this work, and from what I've read that's the biggest difference besides just obd1 to obd2
Hi, I like to down load an APP that I can use to adjust and verify my distributer timing on 5.7 vortec. I also like to do crankshaft sensor relearn. I know nothing about what APPs to use/download. And I surely do not know how to use the APP. I have read some really good forums on this site about 5.7 vortec timing and crank sensor relearn. Could someone please take the time. To tell me what APP can do both. And how do I use the APP to do it. That would be so great. I have other vehicles to do crankshaft sensor relearn. Thank you
I have a 1999 GM 1-ton with a rebuilt 350 in it. We put on new distributor, cap, coil, plugs and wires. The truck starts and runs good. but when under certain driving conditions (full throttle, or certain revs) the truck will backfire, hesitate etc.
When a timing light is used the truck is timed right, but every so often it will throw a spark when the crank is 90 degrees past the timing marks. It is random when it happens, but it always happens in exactly the same spot. So it will fire 3 or 4 times on the mark and than once 90 degrees past and than back to the marks.
My question is what could be causing this? I think 90 degrees on the crank is 45 degrees in the distributor, but how could the rotor be lined up to the next spark plug but jump back to #1?
Any guidance or insight would be greatly appreciated, Thanks in advance.
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