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so will be in the process of adding electric brakes to the boat trailer and a complete light/wire re-do. I really want to get away from the frame mounted brake/light ground wire that you so often see, and run both ground and power all the way to the junction block! My problem I'm running into is running out of room in my junction box! designing it out, I'm coming up with 20 ground wires for all the lights and brakes! no way you will fit that on the one ground stud in your common 7 way junction blocks. I found a 10 way junction block, that will help, but I'm still looking at 11 positive wires for the marker/running lights.  

 

just looking for ideas and what you guys have done. 

 

trailer has; 4 brake plates, 2 S/T/T, 2 back up 1 center id bar, 10 side marker lights.  Confused Hanna Barbera GIF by Warner Archive

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Using the frame of the trailer for grounding purposes is not an issue as "it works" and is why the manufacturers all do it. There's really zero reason to home-run all of the grounds back to a central point since the metal of the trailer already does that.

 

The REAL problem with trailer grounding is that the ground wire from the harness that attached to the trailer frame always seems to get damaged and then you're relying on grounding of the wiring through the hitch back to the two vehicle's frame. Focus your efforts on ensuring that the main ground to the frame stays protected and attached and you should have no issues. You can always coat the attachments with grease or even have the underside of the trailer sprayed with bedliner to protect everything (this is very commonly done by owners of snowmobile trailers).

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OP,  before we get ahead of ourselves here, please explain how in the world you expect electric brakes to work more than once on a boat trailer that is used to launch a boat. There is a reason that boat trailers come equipped with hydraulic surge brakes, water and electricity don't mix. There are electric over hydraulic systems for boat trailers where the hydraulic brakes are activated by an electric controller, but said controller still needs to be mounted somewhere on the tongue of the trailer where it won't ever get wet.

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OP,  before we get ahead of ourselves here, please explain how in the world you expect electric brakes to work more than once on a boat trailer that is used to launch a boat. There is a reason that boat trailers come equipped with hydraulic surge brakes, water and electricity don't mix. There are electric over hydraulic systems for boat trailers where the hydraulic brakes are activated by an electric controller, but said controller still needs to be mounted somewhere on the tongue of the trailer where it won't ever get wet.

Electric brakes have become a normal or standard “economy” brake in the marine industry, all you are doing is energizing a magnet, use the waterproof connectors and it’s no different than backing the trailer lights in the water.

Eoh disk is by far the best route! I have a boat trailer that has that setup and it’s awesome! Just to retro the boat trailer I’m working on is not worth the investment for a boat that I don’t plan to keep forever, I can swap from surge to electric for about $500 to convert to eoh is about $2500. it’s a second boat and not primary use for us but at 11k working brakes are a must in my opinion.

Surge brakes well they just suck... I can’t stand the start and stop clunk, hate the feeling of the trailer trying to pass the truck before the trailer starts to brake, and not having trailer brake control at my hand drives me up the wall.


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Well, I learned something, but still wouldn't electric over hydraulic still be your easiest and cheapest option?  As far as the trailer lights, I always unplugged them in the parking lot prior to launching as a leaking light seal that allowed water in the housing would pop the bulb when the cold water hit the heated bulb from the brake lights.

Edited by garagerog
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Well, I learned something, but still wouldn't electric over hydraulic still be your easiest and cheapest option?  As far as the trailer lights, I always unplugged them in the parking lot prior to launching as a leaking light seal that allowed water in the housing would pop the bulb when the cold water hit the heated bulb from the brake lights.

No, eoh is pricey, the actuator alone is 600-800 depending what one you choose, and more a pain in the ass to run bend and flare lines... if I was planning on keeping this boat forever yes I would do it but I don’t anticipate much more than 3 to 5 years... on my smaller boats over the years yes, I also unplugged the lights, but as the boats got heavier when you unplug your lights you lose your brakes, not worth the truck going forward a swim... I keep them plugged in. My bots are in the 10-14k range


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  • 3 months later...
On 10/28/2020 at 10:15 AM, xps800doo said:


Electric brakes have become a normal or standard “economy” brake in the marine industry, all you are doing is energizing a magnet, use the waterproof connectors and it’s no different than backing the trailer lights in the water.

Eoh disk is by far the best route! I have a boat trailer that has that setup and it’s awesome! Just to retro the boat trailer I’m working on is not worth the investment for a boat that I don’t plan to keep forever, I can swap from surge to electric for about $500 to convert to eoh is about $2500. it’s a second boat and not primary use for us but at 11k working brakes are a must in my opinion.

Surge brakes well they just suck... I can’t stand the start and stop clunk, hate the feeling of the trailer trying to pass the truck before the trailer starts to brake, and not having trailer brake control at my hand drives me up the wall.


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Since when have electric brakes become commonplace or the standard “economy choice” for boat trailers? Surge or EOH; you’re out to lunch with straight electric.

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