Jump to content

  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

L33 ticking/knocking

VinceWeiss
 Share

Recommended Posts

VinceWeiss Enthusiast

VinceWeiss

Posted
Posted

I have an 06 Silverado with 215k miles. Has the L33 Aluminum Block 5.3 in it. It runs great, has good power, but has an odd ticking/knocking noise. It doesn’t make the noise until it’s been running for about a minute so I don’t think it’s exhaust. I also do not think it’s a lifter because it sounds more lower end towards the rear of the engine. Has anyone had any experience with these L33s knocking? It has been making this noise for a while now and it’s very annoying/embarrassing. I’m not sure if oil has anything to do with it but I use penzoil 5w30 full syn. Let me know if you have any ideas, thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
dtnel78 Enthusiast

dtnel78

Posted
Posted

Also post over on scannerdanner.com forums. Great forums and there's guys there doing this type of stuff day in and day out. Seems as if responses are slower during weekdays here on GM when everyone's working vs on scannerdanner when people stay up to task. 

 

You could have a variety of things going on. How current do you keep your would changes ja the first question I ask people as you'd be surprised some of the stuff I see and hear in training webinars from other shop owners, techs. 

 

Does this have the Displacement on Demand where it deactivates ****** amount of cylinders? OR was this the following year on these engines. I know there was a certain year and I get the 66and 8 cylinders mixed up. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
VinceWeiss Enthusiast

VinceWeiss

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, CamGTP said:

Piston slap is a known thing on the LS engines. If it happens at idle, that is pretty normal.

Would it have piston slap while it’s warm? It also has good oil pressure too I should add. And it does only do it at idle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, VinceWeiss said:

I have an 06 Silverado with 215k miles. Has the L33 Aluminum Block 5.3 in it. It runs great, has good power, but has an odd ticking/knocking noise. It doesn’t make the noise until it’s been running for about a minute so I don’t think it’s exhaust. I also do not think it’s a lifter because it sounds more lower end towards the rear of the engine. Has anyone had any experience with these L33s knocking? It has been making this noise for a while now and it’s very annoying/embarrassing. I’m not sure if oil has anything to do with it but I use penzoil 5w30 full syn. Let me know if you have any ideas, thanks.

Get a wrench on your torque converter bolts.  L33 is a great motor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

    • Fredo1888
      L84 can I save it ?
      By Fredo1888
      My l84 5.3 cracked some pistons now thinking of doing a light hone but wanted to know if it would even save the engine ? The scratches are pretty light my nail doesn’t get stuck but I do feel em. The pours on the other hand I’m not sure what could have caused those little things ? 


    • Sir_Griglesworth
      Need help diagnosing noises coming from my 2020 Silverado 1500 5.3L
      By Sir_Griglesworth
      Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle. 
       
      The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care.
       
      The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else.
       
      Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance!
      IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4
    • AaronandAlicia Dailey
      Transmission or tranfer case? Electrical or mechanical?
      By AaronandAlicia Dailey
      OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help.
       
      Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L         Transmission= 4L60-E
       
      So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely.
       
      Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently.  
       
      I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine. 
      I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing. 
      I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something.
       
      I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi.
       
      I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these:
      1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid
      1 * PWM Solenoid
      1 * Manifold Pressure Switch
      1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness
       
      Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow?
       
      What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it?
       
      All help is appreciated.
      thanks in advance,
      Aaron
       
       
    • Texweld
      No Starting - Service Stabilitrak - Service Trailer Brake
      By Texweld
      U0100 Lost communication with ECM
      U0073 CAN Bus Communication 
      P2544 Transmission Torque Request Signal Message Counter Incorrect
      P0700 Transmission Control Module Requested MIL Illumination
      P1682 Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 

      Good Morning Yall, 

      Long time lurker, first time poster as a member, and really appreciate this forum.
      Recently the past year I have had some symptoms that didn’t affect the drivability of my 2014 Silverado z71 4x4 5.3, but were very present on a random basis, especially during rain.
      Service Stabilitrak, Service Trailer Brake(nothing being towed) popping up the screen, sometimes binging back to back for extended amounts of time near to 30 minutes frequently. 

      Today the truck would not start, and presented these codes above under a check engine light. The truck started after having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes and has started since so far the previous 12 hours. Also while driving and the typical service notifications, one headlight being out, the truck engages the transmission at a slow roll/acceleration and a very very rough/lurching, almost feels like being rear-ended engagement, it would not engage power steering, and also presented a warning of reduced engine power. Some of these symptoms of course seem to be directly related to the codes, but seem to have progressed as time has gone on. 

      One issue noticed was a tail light having a small crack, and a sliver of water pooled inside of it. I am unsure if that may be related to the issues present, but I have ordered new lamps. 
      I have also previously installed a new ground cable from the battery to the block, and also verified the ground on the driver-side front beneath the dash/tweeter.  The battery also tested good, so did all of the fuses on the battery side and the box side with the voltmeter. I have not checked the starter or alternator, but they are less than a year old. 
       
      Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

      Sincerely, Ben
    • Derick R
      2008 Yukon XL Drive train Issues.
      By Derick R
      Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r. 

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    242.1k
    Total Topics
    1.4m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    309,440
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Gary BASSETT
    Newest Member
    Gary BASSETT
    Joined


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.

  I accept