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New guy here.

Brought home a 2021 AT4  1500 with the 3.0 Duramax. 
Great truck! It’s in the stable now with a 2001 F250  7.3 power stroke I bought new that now has 300,000 miles and still running strong.

I’m thinking it would be a good idea to change the oil in the Duramax at 1000 miles just to clean out any metal shavings circulating around from the rings seating and metal to metal parts getting used to living together.

Thoughts?

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Amsoil: Secret, Double Secret, under the table, Ultra Premium Black Diamond Platinum Super Limited Signature series...I think? 

Just grab a large zip-lock bag, put it over the filter and let the oil run down into the bag as you pull it off.

Upgrade to what?

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I also changed my oil in my 5.3 at 1,000 miles for basically the same reasons.  I'm sure you will hear numerous opinions about the pros/cons of the oil change, but I changed my oil anyway.  It was small amount and worth the peace of mind.  In short it's your truck and do what you think is best.

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The filter will take care of the little stuff, that is why it is there.

 

I would run it out to 5000, then start a routine OCI. This all depends on how many miles you will be putting on the truck annually. 

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I can only go by my experience. After owning many trucks, cars regular and high performance. From the seventies until today. I never changed that early. But if I was a worrier and it gave me pease of mind, why not? Every used vehicle I bought the first weekend I changed everything. Non turbo engines I go extended. I wouldn’t own a cylinder deactivation engine from any brand. But if I did I’d follow the extreme service schedule. I don’t follow the break in recommendation either.


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About the only oil change I care about is the first one....1,000-2,000 miles get it out.  After that do whatever you want.

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I always do an oil change early, 1,000-1,500, most people say it's a waste but I feel more comfortable in doing it so for me it's worth the couple of bucks since I do it myself for peace of mind. 

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All the cars and trucks I've bought brand new I change oil at the first 1,000-1,500. It saves me the peace of mind and for all reasons, these are the little things I make important as a priority before spending on other things like mods or accessories. I'd rather spend my money on maintenance changes.  And if I have some budget for accessories and all, that's just my second priority. 

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To each their own.  I change out early.  Do you have to?  Probably not but like stated above, if you want to then go for it.

 

There are move vehicles on the road that probably went to 5k or more on the original factory fill and never had issues.  Those of us that change early are a low percentile.

Edited by Black02Silverado
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On my 18 I changed it myself around 3000, but didn't reset the DIC back to zero to reflect it.  I also used a new factory AC Delco filter.  When I came in to dealer for my first of two free maintenance procedures at around 7000 miles, they were not aware about "my" change and less likely to point fingers at me in the event of engine problems.  I tend to use AC filters during the warranty period but do upgrade the oil when I do it myself.

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C12H22O11 is table sugar,  C12H12  is 2,6-Dimethylnaphthalene a polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon. Sugar with the hydroxyl removed. Man made from naphthalene.  Naphthalene's structure consists of a fused pair of benzene rings a component of mineral oil. What do they have in common. All made of carbon and hydrogen. When heated these elements react with oxygen forming new groups of atoms.

 

Same thing that happens to motor oil, a hydrocarbon, when it's heated in oxygen of the atmosphere. It oxidizes until it creates carbonaceous deposits. Sugar just does it fast enough to get your head around the process as the oxygen is part of the molecule already. 

 

A new motor breaking in generates allot of localized heat and degrades the oil at an accelerated pace. There is a higher amount of wear metal debris generated during the break in. The peaks torn from the machined surfaces. This tearing is, in part the generator of that heat. The motor is tighter until this normal process is complete which also generates heat not just between rubbing surfaces but internally within the oil itself. 

 

Just like rubbing you hands together with more pressure and faster generates more heat so likewise the motor. Tis the reason the manual says to keep is slow and the load low for awhile to hold those forces that are cooking and tearing are at a pace the system was designed to accommodate.

 

 WearOut.jpg.5bb46a854f523774f5dc8d786b2265f0.jpg

 

Anyone that has done incremental UOAs from the beginning knows this wear graph is a valid regardless of the initial surface finish or how good the lubricant is. 

 

Now, what to do with that information, eh? 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
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2 hours ago, outrag1 said:

On my 18 I changed it myself around 3000, but didn't reset the DIC back to zero to reflect it.  I also used a new factory AC Delco filter.  When I came in to dealer for my first of two free maintenance procedures at around 7000 miles, they were not aware about "my" change and less likely to point fingers at me in the event of engine problems.  I tend to use AC filters during the warranty period but do upgrade the oil when I do it myself.

Upgrade to what?

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