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Rigid Industries Flush Mount Pods Install Guide - Rear Step Cavity


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Finally got around to installing the Rigid Ignite flush mount LED pods into the rear step cavity. Took my sweet time and it ended up around 4 hours for install. Had a few roadblocks that took more time than expected and had to get creative. 

 

Started off by using a calipers/tape measure to find the spot where I wanted them mounted. Used a pilot 1/16" drill bit to make sure the cutout was where I wanted it. 1 3/4" hole saw to fit the pods, then used a dremel to fine tune the slot for a tight fit. Mounting holes drilled after I had the correct angle and orientation.

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Solder time! Added roughly 40' of wiring to the drivers side pod to run along the frame rail into the cab.

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Connections secured with heat shrink on both 12V and ground, wire harness tape, and then finished with plastic wire loom so salt has a 0% chance of getting in.

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Ran ~15' from the passenger side pod and soldered connections to drivers side pod. Wire loom/harness tape as well. Next step was the tricky part. Getting the washer and nylon lock nut onto the bolt took some creative thinking. You can't get your hand behind the bumper to get up access to the top mounting bolt, so I used a magnet to get the washer on the bolt, and taped the nylon nut onto the magnet and fed it thru the top slot. This was a PITA! A pair of needle nose pliers worked on the passenger side, but the spacing was tighter on the drivers side so that's where I had to get creative.

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Mounted up! Ran wiring up through the frame rail zip tied to existing wiring harness on the drivers side. Up into the grommet which is underneath the drivers side footwell carpet, originally for the parking brake wire. Fed the wiring up into the dash.

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These pods are meant to tie into the reverse light wiring, but I wanted a manual switch since I don't need them on every time I'm in reverse. In the future I may splice into the factory reverse lights and tie in a 3 way switch so that I can either turn them on manually, or they come on automatically when going into reverse.

 

Considering these take less than an amp of current draw each, I used an add-a-fuse into fuse 14 on the drivers side block (2amp, steering wheel back lighting) and used the accessory port on the add-a-fuse with a 2amp fuse. I only had ATM style fuse taps, so I will switch this to the RAP fuse (fuse #2) when I get around to buying some Micro2 fuse taps. This works for now since I won't need the 12V constant during the day when my lights aren't on.

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Important to note polarity does matter while adding a circuit. Rookie mistake after about an hour of troubleshooting to find out I wasn't getting power from this fuse tap.. I had the dang thing in the wrong way ? The wire coming off the fuse tap should be going towards the back of the truck, not facing towards the engine bay.. Tie in the black wire from the pods and ground it, then use a splitter that goes to pin out #7, 12V wire from add-a-fuse goes to pin out #2, and the red wire from the pods to pin out #3. Switch LED only comes on when the pods are on. 

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Done! Clean install and does not drown out the back up camera. Will add night time pictures when I get a chance.

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Link to switch panel build

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/157013-what-have-you-done-to-your-k2-today/page/1416/#comments

 

Parts list:

Rigid LED pods - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HJ4G9QI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hole saw kit - https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-2-12-in-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-11-pc-68114.html

Add a fuse for 12V power - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8HUTCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

100' of 18 AWG wire (only used about 50' total) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DDG7J9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1/4" automotive wire loom - https://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-x-14-ft-protective-wire-wrap-66985.html

Tesa wire harness heat resistant tape - https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Fleece-Interior-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B017OECD7W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=74O4J9ZBJ3AV&dchild=1&keywords=tesa+wire+loom+harness+tape&qid=1612196519&sprefix=tesa+wire%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-4

Soldering iron, solder, heatshrink, terminal connectors, etc.

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Welcome to the "Rigid Lights in Bumper Step" family. I did mine a few years ago...No issues...Plenty of good additional lighting where its needed without washing out the back up camera.  

 

Nice job on your install!!! I like the clean look of the switch on your dash. I simply hooked mine up to the factory back-up light wiring, so they come on anytime I'm in reverse.

 

I too made the multiple measurements behind the step. The depth of the light housing caused initial concerns of contacting the truck body. The outside edge placement gave me the confidence there would be enough clearance. I made a template out of the Rigid Lights packaging cardboard and taped this to back of the step. This aligned the three pilot holes for initial drilling (center for the 1.75" hole saw and the two outside holes for the mounting screws). The upper washers and nuts are a ******! I was able to get them on with long angled needle nose pliers. It was tight, and after I got the first ones on, I had to have a beer and "drink" about the next one. It took awhile, but I got them on. I might have had a few more beers!!!

See pics below...

Template I made, cut hole and light installed (same as the OP), light output from a distance, and light output looking back thru the drivers side mirror...

   

 

 

Template.JPG

Cut Hole.JPG

Mounted Light.JPG

Light 1.JPG

Light 2.jpg

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Great job. Its nice having lights in those cavities. I just noticed one of mine isn't working so now i have to figure out if its a light or wiring problem.

 

In case anyone is just coming across this for the first time, here is the original thread with a lot of ideas discussed:

 

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3 hours ago, aseibel said:

Great job. Its nice having lights in those cavities. I just noticed one of mine isn't working so now i have to figure out if its a light or wiring problem.

 

In case anyone is just coming across this for the first time, here is the original thread with a lot of ideas discussed:

 

Should have gave GMdog2 credit for this, as I stole his design ? Wanted something that wouldn't interfere with the usability of the step, and these worked perfectly. Snagged them on Amazon for about $105 and they are already back up to $130..

4 hours ago, EJCarter said:

Welcome to the "Rigid Lights in Bumper Step" family. I did mine a few years ago...No issues...Plenty of good additional lighting where its needed without washing out the back up camera.  

 

Nice job on your install!!! I like the clean look of the switch on your dash. I simply hooked mine up to the factory back-up light wiring, so they come on anytime I'm in reverse.

 

I too made the multiple measurements behind the step. The depth of the light housing caused initial concerns of contacting the truck body. The outside edge placement gave me the confidence there would be enough clearance. I made a template out of the Rigid Lights packaging cardboard and taped this to back of the step. This aligned the three pilot holes for initial drilling (center for the 1.75" hole saw and the two outside holes for the mounting screws). The upper washers and nuts are a ******! I was able to get them on with long angled needle nose pliers. It was tight, and after I got the first ones on, I had to have a beer and "drink" about the next one. It took awhile, but I got them on. I might have had a few more beers!!!

See pics below...

Template I made, cut hole and light installed (same as the OP), light output from a distance, and light output looking back thru the drivers side mirror...

Looks awesome! I haven't taken pictures yet displaying the output in pitch black, so this definitely helps. 

 

Funny you had the same issues on those dang top bolts.. On the passenger side an angled needle nose worked fine, but was too fat to get the right angle on the drivers side. I too had to drink on it while throwing some choice words at GM.. lol

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13 minutes ago, boettcher40 said:

Funny you had the same issues on those dang top bolts.. On the passenger side an angled needle nose worked fine, but was too fat to get the right angle on the drivers side. I too had to drink on it while throwing some choice words at GM.. lol

So I haven't looked under my truck, but how hard is it to just remove the rear bumper with an impact instead. Seems like it would be easier than fighting with the nuts.

Just curious. 

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So I haven't looked under my truck, but how hard is it to just remove the rear bumper with an impact instead. Seems like it would be easier than fighting with the nuts.
Just curious. 

I was thinking the saaaame thing...


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14 hours ago, YukonXL04 said:

So I haven't looked under my truck, but how hard is it to just remove the rear bumper with an impact instead. Seems like it would be easier than fighting with the nuts.

Just curious. 

Haven't taken the rear bumper off before so not sure. I did think about trying to remove the actual step cavity, but tried that when I wrapped the rear bumper and it didn't go well lol. It maybe took an extra half hour of trying different things before I found something that worked, plus it's literally just two lock nuts. Still gotta be quicker than removing and reinstalling the entire bumper IMO

Edited by boettcher40
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Haven't taken the rear bumper off before so not sure. I did think about trying to remove the actual step cavity, but tried that when I wrapped the rear bumper and it didn't go well lol. It maybe took an extra half hour of trying different things before I found something that worked, plus it's literally just two lock nuts. Still gotta be quicker than removing and reinstalling the entire bumper IMO

Looking into this whole bumper removal mystery today. I will report back with my findings.


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