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Tried to install 5100's on the front but no luck


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So I tried to replace the front shocks with 5100's today on my AT4 and I gave up. I removed the upper 3 nuts and removed the 2 lower shock mount bolts and could not get the assembly out. I tried multiple ways to safely compress the assembly to get it out. I figured since I was having a hard to removing the assembly that I would have the same problem going back in. It took me 45 minutes to get the bolts lined up on the bottom to get those back in. I guess I will have to pay a shop to do this work for me. 😡

 

I had rented spring compressor tools from auto zone once i got the assembly out to replace the shocks. 

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You have to unhook the sway bar to get the strut out but before that you have to remove the brake line bolts that are fastened to the knuckle with 10mm bolts, steering linkage which is 21mm or 22mm cant remember, need to take axle nut (36mm) off if 4wd and push axle through the hub (not all the way through but enough that it moves freely so you do not hyper extend the axle) , Id place a jack under the hub assembly before this step which is to pry down upper control arm with pry bar and remove 18 mm nut to unhook upper control arm then slowly take prybar out,  next take off the 18mm nut on the sway bar and slowly lower hub down with the jack until you get strut out.

 

I just took one of my struts out the other day and plan to do the other one this afternoon so i remember the steps well.  This job is a pain in the rear in a garage with minimal tools.

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Tore mine down last night and removed my passenger side strut.  Probably took an hour maybe a little more and I had most of the tools ready from doing the driver side a couple days ago.  Its still a pain doing alone no matter how many times you do it but not that bad if you have a patience which I usually lack lol but I made myself be patient.  Also get a little stool with wheels to sit on because it will help save your back or actually your whole body from being sore.

 

With all that said if you are required to take the strut apart to install the Bilstein shocks you have then it may be better to pay someone to do it for sure.  That part would seem dangerous but I have never tried that.

 

I had to take my strut out because I installed a 2.5" top strut leveling kit and needed to see why the top bolts were not threaded all the way through the top nuts.  What I do not know is if I need a realignment because I had the truck aligned when the kit was originally installed months ago but after taking it apart does it need alignment again?   even though I didnt really change anything but still feel like it might need a little bit of adjusting.

 

 

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It shouldn't, but any time I start torqueing on the suspension system I get an alignment done regardless.  Lifetime alignments from Firestone are a great investment if you haven't already gone that route.

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1 hour ago, Gangly said:

$354 for having all four corners installed with an alignment is a heckuva deal, you came away a winner on that one!

Yeah I thought so too! I budgeted $500 for it so now I have some extra walking around money for this weekend.

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On 3/5/2021 at 3:37 PM, Gangly said:

It shouldn't, but any time I start torqueing on the suspension system I get an alignment done regardless.  Lifetime alignments from Firestone are a great investment if you haven't already gone that route.

I second that....I use goodyear with their 3 year program. Either way its such a solid/smart purchase for your truck especially if you plan to do different suspension upgrades or run different wheels depending on the season.

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I disconnected the sway bar, steering linkage, and unbolted the UCA to do mine.  I was going from SLT X31 spec shocks to 5100s designed for the AT4, with the spring seat set on the middle setting, so I knew that I needed some room to work.  Came out great, and gave me just a hair over 2" of lift on the front once they settled. Also did a 2" block and AT4 spec rear shocks at the same time, and it made a noticeable difference in ride quality, and of course the 2" helps at the ranch offroad.  

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8 hours ago, AJ Sullivan said:

I disconnected the sway bar, steering linkage, and unbolted the UCA to do mine.  I was going from SLT X31 spec shocks to 5100s designed for the AT4, with the spring seat set on the middle setting, so I knew that I needed some room to work.  Came out great, and gave me just a hair over 2" of lift on the front once they settled. Also did a 2" block and AT4 spec rear shocks at the same time, and it made a noticeable difference in ride quality, and of course the 2" helps at the ranch offroad.  

Nice!  Got any pics?

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