Jump to content

  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

MAJOR FRAME DAMAGE/ poss totaled

BrizzoDaIzzo
 Share

Recommended Posts

BrizzoDaIzzo Enthusiast

BrizzoDaIzzo

Posted
Posted (edited)

2019 Silverado WT double cab, 4 wheel drive. 10,000 miles. 
 

 


 

well, what a crappy week.  Got rear ended by a vehicle while I was sitting at a red light. 35-40mph impact to my rear hitch and bumper.
 

Totally not my fault, the entire wreck was captured on my dash cam, and all costs listed below are being paid by the other person’s insurance company.
 

And yes, I could see the guy typing on his cell phone with my rear dashcam moments before he slammed into me at full speed. Me and my 10-year-old daughter were in the truck. And yes, we’re both medically fine

 

so I got two estimates today from two different auto body repair companies. 

Damages… (wait for it)

Tailgate has to be replaced, right and left rear bed quarter panels have to be repaired, new bumper, new hitch, and the worst part… when the hitch went forward it sheared the holes in the frame rails where it attaches with bolts to the frame. Basically the 3/4” holes in the frame rail that the hitch bolts go through, became 3 inch holes after being stretched and torn from the impact. Both auto body shops said the entire frame has to be replaced with another OEM frame. They said that they normally could put it on a frame straightener and straighten the frame out, but the shearing in the middle could not be repaired to a point that they could guarantee that the tow rating would remain the same as the engineers at GM designed this frame for. Also, I asked about sectional frame repair. They both told me that GM does not authorize sectional frame repair on these trucks Therefore, a complete new frame is needed.
 

The estimate average between the two body shops was around $12,000. Both shops said it would probably be in the shop for at least two months. The cost of two months rental for a full-size equivalent pick up truck is $99 a day. About $6000 bucks total. (could be more if not finished on time.)

 

diminished value… 
 

Online calculators give a total diminished  value estimate around $3000 due to the loss of trade-in value because of the now marred Carfax wreck history.  (i’ll have to probably beg, plead, and pray to Jesus, to get that money out of the car insurance company. I’ve done it before in past wrecks, but I’ve also been told to,  “kick rocks“ before.) and yes before anyone says it, I know I could “lawyer up” to get that money. But I really want to try to do this the right way first. There’s too much unknown of what will come next. Not saying I’m against lawyering up, but I’d really rather not. 
 

basically it’s a $21,000 minimum cost to the guy’s insurance company to repair this (when you add up everything mentioned above). keep in mind, my truck only has a actual wholesale value of around $28-$30,000.

is it totaled???

 

Per my state law, if damages exceed 75% of wholesale value, the vehicle is a total loss. However, I don’t know if they are calculating the rental fees, and the diminished value cost in that math. Maybe it’s just the actual body shop work/parts cost. I’m not sure. 
 

 I would imagine that they would include The total cost to the insurance company, since the Insurance company would not have to pay this if they just totaled the vehicle outright. 
 

so I find out in the next couple days what the insurance company is going to decide to do. I really hope they total it and I’ll tell you why…

 

We all know that this truck was built in the GM assembly plant, to exact torque specs, clearances, etc. And a lot of that work was done by robots, calibrated tools, etc. I am sure “Billy Bob“ the autobody mechanic is not going to be as precise. (No offense to Billy Bob)

 

If the vehicle is not totaled, and it is completely disassembled and reassembled by auto body mechanics,  I will be selling it the day I get it back repaired. I refuse to drive around a “science experiment“. I feel like it will just be problem after problem from that point on. Forgive me if I’m being dramatic, but I really don’t even wanna take the chance. And God only knows how the hell that would affect my original factory warranty. I can see Chevrolet refusing to do anything with it from that point on. I’ll basically have to be going back to the body shop for any further problems. Then the body shop will blame Chevrolet, and vice versa. What a nightmare. 
 

and forgive me for calling the autobody mechanic “Billy Bob“. I have a lot of respect for these guys, and it’s truly an art that takes absolute talent to do. But I think we all know that I’m not wrong in assuming that this truck will not be built back to the same perfection that it came out of the GM plant with. 
 

I appreciate any thoughts or insights anyone on here might have. And just a reminder, any solid impact to your hitch will absolutely destroy your entire frame. The guy who hit me was only going about 35 to 40 mph. 
 

not sure what’s gonna happen from this point on, but I will be sure to update this post in the next few days

 

If you are a religious type, any prayers are appreciated.  👍🏻

Edited by BrizzoDaIzzo
Added tags
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
btj_z71 Enthusiast

btj_z71

Posted
Posted
33 minutes ago, BrizzoDaIzzo said:

2019 Silverado WT double cab, 4 wheel drive. 10,000 miles. 
 

 


 

well, what a crappy week.  Got rear ended by a vehicle while I was sitting at a red light. 35-40mph impact to my rear hitch and bumper.
 

Totally not my fault, the entire wreck was captured on my dash cam, and all costs listed below are being paid by the other person’s insurance company.
 

And yes, I could see the guy typing on his cell phone with my rear dashcam moments before he slammed into me at full speed. Me and my 10-year-old daughter were in the truck. And yes, we’re both medically fine

 

so I got two estimates today from two different auto body repair companies. 

Damages… (wait for it)

Tailgate has to be replaced, right and left rear bed quarter panels have to be repaired, new bumper, new hitch, and the worst part… when the hitch went forward it sheared the holes in the frame rails where it attaches with bolts to the frame. Basically the 3/4” holes in the frame rail that the hitch bolts go through, became 3 inch holes after being stretched and torn from the impact. Both auto body shops said the entire frame has to be replaced with another OEM frame. They said that they normally could put it on a frame straightener and straighten the frame out, but the shearing in the middle could not be repaired to a point that they could guarantee that the tow rating would remain the same as the engineers at GM designed this frame for. Also, I asked about sectional frame repair. They both told me that GM does not authorize sectional frame repair on these trucks Therefore, a complete new frame is needed.
 

The estimate average between the two body shops was around $12,000. Both shops said it would probably be in the shop for at least two months. The cost of two months rental for a full-size equivalent pick up truck is $99 a day. About $6000 bucks total. (could be more if not finished on time.)

 

diminished value… 
 

Online calculators give a total diminished  value estimate around $3000 due to the loss of trade-in value because of the now marred Carfax wreck history.  (i’ll have to probably beg, plead, and pray to Jesus, to get that money out of the car insurance company. I’ve done it before in past wrecks, but I’ve also been told to,  “kick rocks“ before.) and yes before anyone says it, I know I could “lawyer up” to get that money. But I really want to try to do this the right way first. There’s too much unknown of what will come next. Not saying I’m against lawyering up, but I’d really rather not. 
 

basically it’s a $21,000 minimum cost to the guy’s insurance company to repair this (when you add up everything mentioned above). keep in mind, my truck only has a actual wholesale value of around $28-$30,000.

is it totaled???

 

Per my state law, if damages exceed 75% of wholesale value, the vehicle is a total loss. However, I don’t know if they are calculating the rental fees, and the diminished value cost in that math. Maybe it’s just the actual body shop work/parts cost. I’m not sure. 
 

 I would imagine that they would include The total cost to the insurance company, since the Insurance company would not have to pay this if they just totaled the vehicle outright. 
 

so I find out in the next couple days what the insurance company is going to decide to do. I really hope they total it and I’ll tell you why…

 

We all know that this truck was built in the GM assembly plant, to exact torque specs, clearances, etc. And a lot of that work was done by robots, calibrated tools, etc. I am sure “Billy Bob“ the autobody mechanic is not going to be as precise. (No offense to Billy Bob)

 

If the vehicle is not totaled, and it is completely disassembled and reassembled by auto body mechanics,  I will be selling it the day I get it back repaired. I refuse to drive around a “science experiment“. I feel like it will just be problem after problem from that point on. Forgive me if I’m being dramatic, but I really don’t even wanna take the chance. And God only knows how the hell that would affect my original factory warranty. I can see Chevrolet refusing to do anything with it from that point on. I’ll basically have to be going back to the body shop for any further problems. Then the body shop will blame Chevrolet, and vice versa. What a nightmare. 
 

and forgive me for calling the autobody mechanic “Billy Bob“. I have a lot of respect for these guys, and it’s truly an art that takes absolute talent to do. But I think we all know that I’m not wrong in assuming that this truck will not be built back to the same perfection that it came out of the GM plant with. 
 

I appreciate any thoughts or insights anyone on here might have. And just a reminder, any solid impact to your hitch will absolutely destroy your entire frame. The guy who hit me was only going about 35 to 40 mph. 
 

not sure what’s gonna happen from this point on, but I will be sure to update this post in the next few days

 

If you are a religious type, any prayers are appreciated.  👍🏻

My 2014 had the the same thing happen when it had less than 10k miles.  It was around $9k and took about 7 business business days at a specialty shop.  Same case as yours, I was read ended, hitch and bumper bent down, thus bending the frame.

 

I drove that truck up to 99k miles until I traded it in.  Not once did I have any problems due to the frame replacement.

 

What they do essentially is put your new frame on one side of the shop and your truck next to it, and then start swapping parts. 

 

I wouldn't worry too much, but a few things to make sure of.  Use a shop that your insurance trusts and is approved by them.  Ensure you understand the warranty on the repair and what to do if any issues arise.  Once you get the truck home after it has been repaired, dedicate time to look over everything, and I mean everything.  Push every button, test every light, try all gears, engage 4wd, test the radio, check the AC and heat, check that the body lines are lined up, look in the engine bay and check connections and fluid levels, etc....

 

Definitely fight to get your diminished value claim filed and lawyer up if they refuse to pay.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BrizzoDaIzzo Enthusiast

BrizzoDaIzzo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks so much for this. This is definitely very reassuring. This is kind of unknown territory for me and I wasn’t quite sure what I was walking into with this. One of the mechanics at the shop said that Ford has sectional repairable frames. Not quite sure why Chevy doesn’t do this since rear end collision‘s are very common. Not knocking on Chevy, I love them. But I’m sure they have their reasons and they are smarter than me.

 

thanks again for the insight, and it’s good to talk to someone who’s “been there“.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

I have a buddy that had a new truck in an accident and needed the frame replaced. (not a GM, but one of the big 3)

He also had good experience with the truck after the replacement.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
AJMBLAZER Enthusiast

AJMBLAZER

Posted
Posted (edited)

The frame is the rigid backbone of your truck. Literally everything on the truck is located off it. 
 

That’s why most makers don’t replace sections of it. 
 

Any good shop should be able to do this. I delivered replacement GM frames to body shops 20 years ago. 

Edited by AJMBLAZER
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Amcguy1970 Enthusiast

Amcguy1970

Posted
Posted

Not sure why people think repair jobs are some back yard hack job. The amount of machines, tools and training that go in to it are phenomenal. I had a buddy that went to school for that. Years of training and specializing in certain areas (he didn't paint or work in all areas and was trained fairly often on specific things he worked on). I would have no issues driving my truck after if they fix it, especially at a large reputable shop with the best equipment. Many times they can be repaired to the same or better than factory and it will be the same as new. Plus, many of times you can usually work out some changes or modifications. I have had different bumpers used (upgrades), items painted or replaced one after market item with something better and even paid a little more to have other things painted that weren't. If it isn't a total loss, make sure you are compensated but drive it and enjoy it, you will come out further behind by trying to dump it right away. 

 

Tyler

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BrizzoDaIzzo Enthusiast

BrizzoDaIzzo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, Amcguy1970 said:

Not sure why people think repair jobs are some back yard hack job. The amount of machines, tools and training that go in to it are phenomenal. I had a buddy that went to school for that. Years of training and specializing in certain areas (he didn't paint or work in all areas and was trained fairly often on specific things he worked on). I would have no issues driving my truck after if they fix it, especially at a large reputable shop with the best equipment. Many times they can be repaired to the same or better than factory and it will be the same as new. Plus, many of times you can usually work out some changes or modifications. I have had different bumpers used (upgrades), items painted or replaced one after market item with something better and even paid a little more to have other things painted that weren't. If it isn't a total loss, make sure you are compensated but drive it and enjoy it, you will come out further behind by trying to dump it right away. 

 

Tyler

Hey, these are good words.  I totally agree with you.  These guys are truly talented artists.  110% agree.  
 

I have toured the inside of several automotive assembly plants in the past.  Robotically welded parts done with precision.  One tool specifically torqued and specked to one job. Quality assurance checks along the way. 
 

when replacing a frame, you are essentially rolling a truck down an assembly line backwards and then putting it all back together again.  But without the robotics, assembly line quality assurance, constantly calibrated torque tools, order of operation quality assurance, etc. 

 

it’s like trying to have Henry Ford build the Model T in his garage instead of a proper manufacturing plant.  People are human, things get missed/overlooked.  They aren’t bad people. It just seems like a lot to get “perfect” in a body shop.  Hell, GM doesn’t do it 100% all the time either.  The assembly line eliminates the chances that things go wrong (to a large degree)
 

anyhow, this is TOTALLY NOT a knock against the auto body worker.  More just a concern in my thoughts.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ddmathis Enthusiast

ddmathis

Posted
Posted

You give too much faith in robots. I would rather have a real person assemble things most of the time. You realize every aircraft is torn apart by humans periodically and put back together. Have some more faith in people and less faith in robots. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
GreatWhiteMexican Enthusiast

GreatWhiteMexican

Posted
Posted

I understand your concern, long story short, my brother drove my dads truck and rear ended someone. Water pump and other things had to be replaced. We had nothing but problems with that truck afterwards. They got rid of that truck after constant repairs. Recently my dad was sideswiped, almost like an angled t-bone really. Tweaked the frame and of course body damage. After it was repaired he had no problems with it and said it rode better. 
 

Honestly if comes down to the luck sometimes. Just makes sure you use a highly rated repair shop that is recommended by the insurance company, either yours or theirs, and grill the repair shop with questions. Like if they use aftermarket parts or oem parts.  What is their warranty like and such.
 

Make the other guys insurance take care of your rental. You shouldn’t have to pay for that since it wasn’t like you were looking to be rear ended or anything. And as for the depreciation on your truck, it might not be as bad. The way the new/used car market is now it might not have affected it much. Believe it or not, after only having my truck for five days I was rear ended. Low speed impact, $3k in damage and labor. Just for fun we looked at the value of my truck, even with the accident, I can sale my truck for a profit.

 

Sorry for the long post, anyway good luck with the repairs and let’s us know what’s happens. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
WeGone Enthusiast

WeGone

Posted
Posted (edited)

Had my new 1500 mile Z71 hit in the left front by a red light runner going 50+ MPH in April. Bent the frame and front cross member along with associated body parts.  No air bag deployment. Same story as you would need the frame replaced.  The repairs were listed at over 30K, The insurance totaled the truck within 2 weeks.

Edited by WeGone
Link to comment
Share on other sites
MCSarge Enthusiast

MCSarge

Posted
Posted

I hit some black ice in my 04 Jeep Wrangler and after bouncing it off the overpass three times I ended up pushing the front frame rails over 2 1/2".  They estimated $12,000.00 to replace the frame and repair all the damage.  Took them 6 weeks and when they got done the final cost was $16,789.00.  The insurance company could have totaled the Jeep and only had to pay me $19,800.00, so there is no telling what they may end up doing......  Good luck on your truck and good to hear you and your daughter are healthy....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
EpisodicDoleWhip Enthusiast

EpisodicDoleWhip

Posted
Posted

Another story to add.  I hit a concrete post in my 2015 Silverado a month after I got it in 2016.  $23,000 worth of damage, including a total frame replacement.  It took weeks to get it back, but once I did it was fine.  Never had any issues.  Just traded in the truck last week after putting 80,000 more miles on it.  Yes, the value was diminished, but not terribly.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Content

    • raging_catf1sh
      Dented Tailgate- Paintless Repair?
      By raging_catf1sh
      Spent the weekend at a buddy's ranch, and the brake from a dirt bike dented my 2019 Silverado tailgate. I don't want to have to replace the entire tailgate, and I'm very unfamiliar with all the work that can be done now, so I'm wondering if paintless dent repair could fix this? Or if y'all think just the metal piece can be replaced without the entire tailgate needing to be swapped out? Thanks in advance!
    • Sir R
      2015 Chevrolet Silverado blend door actuator
      By Sir R
      Hi , I have a 2015 Chevrolet Silverado High Country and the blend door actuator the one behind the passenger side air vent in the dash has failed I'm getting cold air on the passenger side and hot air on the driver side when the AC is on anybody know how to take the dash apart to fix that?
    • stevenv76
      frame swap options
      By stevenv76
      I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks.  I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it.
        All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it.  I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me.  I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced.  freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings.  the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp  installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash.  body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago. 
        The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise.  what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion?  living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone.  will either be driving to get one or having shipped.  somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year.  of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks.  I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still.  I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot.  gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps.  I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing.  the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory.  the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08.  the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one.  suspension parts I just say 06 on.  half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise.
        I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up.  I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing.  
        sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given 
    • coopermj
      TOWING MIRROR 2021 GMC 2500HD
      By coopermj
      Proud owner of a new 2021 GMC 2500HD that needs some assistance with a problem concerning my driver's side mirror.
       
      That problem, was caused my me:  The first time I backed the truck into my garage at night, I clipped the driver's mirror on the opening.  I have 10' wide doors, so there is no excuse, so give ahead and give me the business!  Hopefully you won't.
       
      Took a few photos and shared them with the dealer's body shop and I was told I have to replace the mirror at $1800.  That parts were available, but nothing that would help me.
       
      Let me describe the damage:  Looking at the front of the mirror (the side towards you with the mirrors), the lower fixed convex mirror cracked and fell off.  The main mirror works fine.  It can be remotely controlled and tilts downward when reversing, as I had it setup in settings.  The mirror folds and extends with no problems. All the electronics work including the blind spot indicator, front LED white lights,  the rear LED white lights and the amber markers.  There is not a mark on the mirror housing.  What cracked was the black plastic piece that holds the mirrors.  The chrome surround housing that the black plastic snaps in to is untouched.  The more I look at this mirror, the more I think I can fix it with parts from an identical mirror from a salvage yard.
       
      I can post a few photos here if you wish.  I'd love to see an exploded parts view from GM, but I don't have that access.  This truck has all the mirrors for surround vision, towing and whatever else you can think.
       
      If anyone reading this is a GM tech or body shop tech and might be able to give me a hand, I would really appreciate it.
       
      Thanks much,
       
      Mike
    • Deftster
      BCM Replacement Question
      By Deftster
      How's it going folks!
       
      I have an 06 Sierra in which it seems I have a bad Body Control Module. I started it up this morning and was surprised to see my ABS, Airbag, Charging system light on. Also no power  locks, windows radio etc. I initially thought it may be the ignition switch as I had similar issues in my 04 Duramax and that was the fix, but nope. But to get to the point, I plan on obtaining my BCM through a junkyard and to install and relearn myself.  I am wondering if my odometer reading will change when I put in the new BCM. I have heard conflicting statements that the mileage is stored in the BCM or the Instrument Panel Cluster. I'm not really concerned with the mileage being higher on the new BCM as I plan on driving this truck to the ground, but I don't really care for committing a felony if its lower.
       

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    239.4k
    Total Topics
    1.4m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    290,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Jesus Solis
    Newest Member
    Jesus Solis
    Joined


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.

  I accept