Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)


Recommended Posts

18 hours ago, Brunsk13 said:

Just curious, I'm getting ready to rewire my Kicker sub but looking at the original photos and then reading the wire color configurations, there looks to be a mismatch.  The photo shows the Kicker green wire connected to a white wire that is then connected to the blue wire but it was stated that green connects to green?  Just need some clarification before I dig into this.  Also, does it take much to take the console apart?

 

The pictures were of my original install.  I have since switched green to green and believe it sounds a little better.  (I mentioned this in an update to this thread) Phase is not an exact science in a car.  Especially when you are only dealing with 0 or 180.

 

-Eli

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just rewired my sub from the front to the sub wire and I can notice a difference.  It does hit more like the sub should, as does not have the full spectrum of music coming through it anymore, only the lows now.  The only thing is that I had to switch all of the dip switches on the amp to up to get any volume from the sub. The wired gain knob from the amp is also full volume. The EQ set to +7, -1,+10.

 Does this sound right?  I'm just worried the amp may overheat and shut off if it is played at this setting for an extended period? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

59 minutes ago, Brunsk13 said:

Just rewired my sub from the front to the sub wire and I can notice a difference.  It does hit more like the sub should, as does not have the full spectrum of music coming through it anymore, only the lows now.  The only thing is that I had to switch all of the dip switches on the amp to up to get any volume from the sub. The wired gain knob from the amp is also full volume. The EQ set to +7, -1,+10.

 Does this sound right?  I'm just worried the amp may overheat and shut off if it is played at this setting for an extended period? 

Something doesn’t seem right. I have 1st 2 dips down with #3 up, no gain knob, and my bass EQ is set to 5 and it hits pretty good.  With all three up the bass was massively too much for my liking. Wasn’t clean at all.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, with the dip switches down (or 1 up), it does almost nothing, which was surprising compared to the volume it was previously putting out with the old wiring configuration.  It's hitting good now but having the amp maxed out really concerns me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got it figured out finally.  One of the T connectors was faulty so I replaced it and boom, I'm in business.  I set the dip switches back down, reset the EQ and WOW, this thing sounds great!  Thanks for all the info to help make this sub finally come alive. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/29/2021 at 9:45 PM, TSchevy said:

 

Something doesn’t seem right. I have 1st 2 dips down with #3 up, no gain knob, and my bass EQ is set to 5 and it hits pretty good.  With all three up the bass was massively too much for my liking. Wasn’t clean at all.  

 

Having dip 3 up does not do anything if one and two are down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 9/14/2021 at 5:24 PM, Thomas Rodriguez said:

 

Any chance anyone wants to share a little video on where the sub wires are and how you got to them? I think this could make install much easier for most.

Sorry all...I've read through these post and I'm still not seeing where anyone has listed the factory sub wires to use when connecting the Kicker sub for alternate wiring. Can anyone help an old rocker out with this info? Much appreciated!

 

 

Update

So after reading through this one more time I believe I'm on the right track now, lol!

 

Edited by smooth68
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Not to hi-jack this thread, as I just purchased the kicker sub and am following this upgrade.   I also purchased a set of kicker component 6x9 door speakers.  Does anyone know if the front door signal is a full range signal??    If not, would I need to tap the tweeters off the dash speakers instead?

 

Thanks all and I will be following the advise on this thread for the 10" woofer...good stuff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, iceytys said:

Not to hi-jack this thread, as I just purchased the kicker sub and am following this upgrade.   I also purchased a set of kicker component 6x9 door speakers.  Does anyone know if the front door signal is a full range signal??    If not, would I need to tap the tweeters off the dash speakers instead?

 

Thanks all and I will be following the advise on this thread for the 10" woofer...good stuff

 

You are non-Bose I take it? I'm almost positive the front door speakers are full range, but also just a single channel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/26/2022 at 12:18 PM, bell1658 said:

4play wheels? What size? Looks good!

 

On 2/1/2022 at 9:36 AM, smooth68 said:

 

You are non-Bose I take it? I'm almost positive the front door speakers are full range, but also just a single channel.

No, I have Bose

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, iceytys said:

 

No, I have Bose

Oh, ok I was just wondering since you said you were replacing the door speakers an I was thinking the Bose speakers weren't normal 4 ohm car audio type. Have you installed them yet?

 

I've had my Kicker sub installed for about a month now, tapped the bose sub leads, and running a bass knob. I'm more that happy with the results. Very impressive for what it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/29/2021 at 1:48 PM, Goodtill said:

20210829_145430.jpg

I have a similar system, #19303115 from stillwater designs. It's the dual 200/400W Sub-Woofer and amp kit I got given to me from a friend. I keep getting told that it's not compatible with the premium bose system in the 2019 2500 hd ltz (which I'm guessing means that it comes with the wrong harness to connect to my system). If that is the case, I'm hoping you can answer how do I get this system to work properly before I tear into everything and find out it won't work? Also I was reading this thread and it said something about the switches on the amp. The one I have in the kit has no switches... any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.