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I've been experiencing a issue involving height related to torsion bars on my 1999 GMC Sierra. I am having trouble determining if it is the driver side torsion bar, or perhaps the driver side lower control arm being worn where the torsion bars sits in it. This issue is non-existent on the passenger side. On the driver side, I removed the torsion bar for some other work I was doing and when I re-installed it in the lower control arm, I noticed the keys were positioned differently literally every way I turned the bar or tilted the lower control arm on the driver side. The keys are the same but on the driver side the torsion key seems to sit lower than the passenger side when installing it making the driver side higher which in turn makes the lower control arm sit lower. This is causing far too much camber on the driver side making turn radius on that side a little sketchy. It is also making my lower control arm make contact with the steering knuckle. The ball joints are all new. Could this be a worn lower control arm, or possibly the torsion bar on the driver side alone? Is there a fix to correct the issue? If anyone has experienced this or can make better sense of it please let me know!
About 1 year ago I replaced the engine in my 1989 suburban v2500 with a 5.7L tbi engine in it, I used another chevy 350 from summit racing and used most of the old Accesory drive then, about 6 months after I completed the build it noticed a loud rattling noise that sounded like detonation to me but only under low speed acceleration and it would stop when I let my foot off the gas, so I began troubleshooting the issue. I replaced the egr valve, put colder spark plugs in it, replaced the knock sensor, tried high octane fuel, retarded the timing adjusted the valve lash and now I am lost, the noise only gets worse the more I drive it.
Bought this vehicle brand new. I love it, and perfect for myself, my family, and the fact it's Diesel puts the cherry on top for me. But... now things have started. We have currently 1,137 miles on the vehicle and had the first message populated:
- Service steering column lock. (see photo)
Everything else worked, remote start, standard start, and the vehicle had zero issues. The following day from our road trip, we had to go to the DMV with our out-of-state paperwork to submit for plates. My wife now received a new message.
- Service emissions system. See owners manual. (see photo)
She drove to the DMV and left to get the smog paperwork. Then a new issue:
- Vehicle remote start isn't working. (see photo)
She is in the car and tries to start... Nothing. She tries again. It starts, and she drives it to a local dealer. They come to look and scheduled us for an appointment. She drives the vehicle now, and Onstar now shows the emission issue. ( see photo ) We now can't register the vehicle in California, because, the check engine light is on, emissions warning, and they won't smog it until it's corrected.
I noticed that none of these issues happened until it updated the software in the vehicle. I'm hoping this is something that can be fixed. I've been looking around for answers and only finding more issues that are all pretty shitty. Sorry, no better way to say it. I've also seen a post of people saying, “deal with it, it's a new breed of vehicles,” etc. I’d challenge that answer. No one should pay this much for a vehicle and face these issues I'm reading about.
So here's what I'm going to do, document everything, and I mean everything. This will be for everyone who may have this issue now or who may come across it.
My opinion...but I'm not a mechanic, is that there is a massive software and hardware issue with these models. I believe GM internally has to know about this from Dealers, Customer Service, Compliance Reports, etc. I'm sure all issues are in the queue to be address or fixed. I do, however, feel with the challenges of physical hardware that they chose a vendor that was most cost-effective, which is a component of these issues a long with the capability to support the software complexity of the current models.
Or maybe I'm just wearing a tin hat, who knows.
So, I open this up to you. Any advice, similar issues, outcomes you've faced, and other topics, please comment below.
May the journey of dealership visits begin. Hopefully, this journey isn't to long.
By Bryanna Humphreys
I have a 2017 Silverado 5.3 LT. I was told I need to replace my steering rack bushings but can only find the driver's side bushings available. According to GM the passenger side bushings are a part of the gear and is a non sale item. I can't understand why they would only sell bushings for one side of the rack when a $200 job becomes a $1,200 job.
Most steering gears do not have the two Mount bushings on either side of the gear. Has anyone replaced the rack bushings in the passenger side with an aftermarket part? Does anyone have the dimensions for the passenger side bushings?
Photos of the mounts are included the side without visible rubber is the side that can be replaced and the side with visible rubber apparently cannot be replaced.
Any help or advice or even explanation would be greatly appreciated.
Story: transmission overheated @ 60k miles. Warranty replaced with new transmission. I’ve had the vehicle (2018 suburban LT 4x4) since new and always sit around 190 degrees give or take and back and fourth around 200 when towing. With the new transmission I keep hitting 210 up to 220 driving around town and not driving hard. I haven’t towed yet but tow often and I am very concerned and afraid to tow. I just finished a thermostat delete to test that out and driving for about 30 min around town and freeway it was over 190 and climbing. It took a while to get there compared to normal but still got hot. Dealership has no clue and the transmission shop has no clue. I need help in figuring out what could be causing the heat. I am so for an oil change and my AC blow nice and cold.
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