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By AaronandAlicia Dailey
OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help.
Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E
So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely.
Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently.
I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine.
I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing.
I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something.
I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi.
I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these:
1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid
1 * PWM Solenoid
1 * Manifold Pressure Switch
1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness
Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow?
What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it?
All help is appreciated.
thanks in advance,
I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes.
Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote.
Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.
By Derick R
Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
Tips | Suggestions | Advice - Looking at buying a Chevy/GMC truck. What should I watch out for the GOOD and BAD?By SlowerTrafficKeepRIght
What suggestions or advice is available for buying a GMC | Chevy truck? What should I watch out for -- the GOOD and BAD?
I want to come back to the GMC | Chevy family. For over 20 years, we owned a 98 GMC Suburban, putting over 230k miles on it myself, and I LOVED that truck. Other than typical wear and tear -- I never had any problems or issues with my Suburban.
I am looking at 2016-2022 -- GMC | Chevy 1500 | 2500 series, all trims (4x4), except the base models. My budget is around $35k plus'ish; yes, I understand my budget limits what I can get. I am a USAF retired veteran living off a fixed income.
Yes, we tow hitch pull RVs and various trailers, but not as often as before. What are the GOOD, BAD, and UGLY these days on the GMC | Chevy trucks? Is the additional price for either diesel and/or 2500 worth it?
SHORT STORY: so, a few years ago, I bought a 2015 Ram 1500 4x4 EcoDiesel 6cyl w/turbo Lonestar -- well, I have been disappointed with Chrysler | Fiat (FCA). They lied about the EcoDiesel, and after forced recall ECM updates, they sucked all performance and mpg from the truck. Buying a newish GMC | Chevy, I do not want to fall into what happened with my 2015 Ram. When I had my suburban, I never had so many recalls, been lied to, and never had poor performance.
Thanks for any suggestions that you will provide -- Gary (ExFalconFxr)
By Bare Foot Garage
Have a 4l80e (first gen?) Transmission and it doesn't go in reverse. So took pan, gasket, filter etc out to get to the reverse servo assembly.
Took that apart and checked the servo pin (seems pin I have is D/C so can't find replacement or specs)
Also inspected pin and looks good. So wondering If it's the "bigger" spring in the reverse servo assembly but can't find specific, part number or name etc.
Can anyone help please? I don't want to buy a whole "kit" if I just need one spring. Or the servo assembly isn't the issue...
First spring. Not second. Ordered second by part # but not one I now know I need.
Thanks for your help
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