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Catch Can Results


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4 hours ago, AE1M said:

Well this whole thread is pissing me off.  After all the raving about catch cans, and now seeing 1/2 oz of oil in there that would have been directly injected past my valves, everyone seems to be ranting AGAINST their use.  WTF is going on?

 

Is it not beneficial to stop this blowby oil from gunking up the intake valves?

 

Bob

you only need the catch can if your running boost .... the guys that are catching crazy amounts of oil have engine problems they dont know about.  need to source the cause not the bandaid fix

 

the reason I suggest deleting the valve cover breather lines to the TB is because it's unmetered air the MAF is not measuring, and this air contains oil residue going directly into the intake manifold. much cheaper to install valve cover breathers than a big clunky catch can

Edited by pokismoki
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25 minutes ago, pokismoki said:

you only need the catch can if your running boost .... the guys that are catching crazy amounts of oil have engine problems they dont know about.  need to source the cause not the bandaid fix

 

the reason I suggest deleting the valve cover breather lines to the TB is because it's unmetered air the MAF is not measuring, and this air contains oil residue going directly into the intake manifold. much cheaper to install valve cover breathers than a big clunky catch can

 

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Maybe a couple hundred vehicles with "catch cans" and a few million without.

If I were in the "catch can" business I would hit YouTube and social media real hard with one of those "just some average guy" infomercials with my solution in search of a problem. 😂

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Install one if you want, don't install one if you don't want. It's your truck.

 

The link posted is to another seller bashing on other seller, take it with a grain of salt. 

 

Mine 5.3 will always be better than your 5.3. No matter what you do, mine will always out perform yours. That's a fact and has been scientifically proven in my head.

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On 9/7/2021 at 5:46 PM, pokismoki said:

I had one on before , its just a band aid to the real problem... 

the cheaper route i found was using a set of 5/8" valve cover breather filters. i bought mine from UNI , then you plug the ports going to the Air intake before the Throttle body with 5/8" waterheater caps. this stops any un-metered air getting past the MAF messing with your AFR and giving you a shaky rough idle

We always did this with our cars way back when, 70s and 80s vintage cars.  

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8 hours ago, pokismoki said:

you only need the catch can if your running boost .... the guys that are catching crazy amounts of oil have engine problems they dont know about.  need to source the cause not the bandaid fix

 

the reason I suggest deleting the valve cover breather lines to the TB is because it's unmetered air the MAF is not measuring, and this air contains oil residue going directly into the intake manifold. much cheaper to install valve cover breathers than a big clunky catch can

I believe in another post, someone pointed out all thats in the can is not oil. Some is condensation from the can heating and cooling. That is why there is massive amounts of "oil" but yet no real drop in oil level. Wish I could recall where I read that. I do have a can on mine and pour it out ever so often. However, I have yet to see oil loss that would equal what I pour. With that in mind though there is oil in there. Back in the day it was all vented to the atmosphere. If memory serves the oil dripping out onto the ground is why they are no longer vented to the atmosphere.

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https://thescipub.com/pdf/ajessp.2010.523.534.pdf

 

Go to page six of this PDF file and LOOK at the ASTM D86 distillation curves of various motor oils both virgin and used. 5W30 to 20W50 are shown. Remember the temperature scale is Celsius. So the zero recovered volume number for the worst of the worst is 200 C or 392 F. Let that sink in a minute. (Note WHO did the study) 

 

To vaporize 1/2 of 1 percent of a used motor oil takes a temperature of almost 400 degrees Fahrenheit!

 

And yes there some parts of the motor that get that hot. But are almost immediately condensed when they leave that area because?? It's cooler everywhere else. Think ring area and think between the first two rings.

 

Put a window in the side of an engine block at road rpm and you will see a hurricane in a teacup. (Smokey Yunick actually did this to make this very point). 

 

So the oil leaving the breather is NOT VAPORIZED oil but rather oil MIST entrained in the exiting gasses. It takes a fair gas velocity to move misted oil particles between the crankcase and the intake manifold. This means there is 1.) a large volume of gas being moved and 2.) that gas it coming from somewhere. 

 

 

 

PCV valve options: What are they? - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards

 

Okay so vacuum OR excess pressure will move the valve from close to open far enough to carry an oil mist. So either you foot is in it constantly; either heavy foot OR heavy loads OR tow/haul OR your rings are leaking like a sieve. An oil burner. This assuming that most of the liquid is indeed oil. Argue with the physics not me. 

 

Oil, used, does have a lower vapor point as do lighter oils such as 0W20/0W16 and the longer they are used the lower that point becomes as the VM's are sheared and molecular weight is lowered. Again argue with the physics. Leave me out of it. But that is still a very small percentage of the oil volume the motor carries. 

 

So what is in that liquid when it is not all oil? Condensed water from combustion, gasoline ditto that has a MUCH lower boiling/vapor point/pressure and the acids they form. But mostly water vapor in emulsion with oil mist. 

 

So what is the bottom line here?

You have a motor that uses oil? More than .05% of the fuel used per OCI? Run can. 

You beat it like a whelp pup? Run a can.

You tow/haul like it's a calling? Run a can. 

 

If your motor runs normal OCI's with no measurable oil usage and she's your daily driver. Not so much. 

 

These things, catch cans, got popular in diesels when water vapor MIXED with EGR gasses FEED to the intake manifold made a tar in the inlet choking the motors air off. Your gasser ain't that. Just some Me Too marketing. 

 

Me...I'd fix the problem before I'd run a can. 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
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But mostly water vapor in emulsion with oil mist. 

1 qt of oil can contaminate up to 1/4 million gallons of water or cause an oil slick 2 acres in size.  So a drop of oil in the catch can mixed with condensation gives the appearance it all came from the engine. 

 

 

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Its funny how some topics become so hot. My theory is at the end of the day, its up the whoever owns their vehicle. Do what makes you happy. Ive seen so many people argue over what oil, what filter, what lift etc its not even funny. When it comes to cans is it going to destroy an engine not to have one..absolutely not. Will it keep crap out of the engine you may not want in it..possibly, but it wont hurt you engine to have it either its just something else to maintain. Life's short...just live it.

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Here's my personal experience with catch can.  Hopefully it can help OP decide if he wants to install one. I tested on 2 different car, granted it's two different engine, both DI engine. One high mileage at almost 300k. The other at 50k.

 

Both catch cans made by the same manufacturer and both checks done weekly for about 6 months.

 

On the high mileage car; the first batch of junk I dumped was ugly, I though the car went to Starbucks, I dumped roughly 3 oz of junk the first week. It gradually improves over time. Now (about 15 months later) it doesn't look like Starbucks anymore and it doesn't collect as much anymore as well, I dumped less then 1 oz a month now.

 

On the low mileage car; I had it on for roughly 6 months. It collected just a little bit of oil, probably less then 3 drips. I removed the catch can as there was no need for it.

 

The catch can I took off from the low mileage car is now installed on the Silverado. Hopefully it helps over time.

 

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43 minutes ago, CrawlSlow said:

Here's my personal experience with catch can.  Hopefully it can help OP decide if he wants to install one. I tested on 2 different car, granted it's two different engine, both DI engine. One high mileage at almost 300k. The other at 50k.

 

Both catch cans made by the same manufacturer and both checks done weekly for about 6 months.

 

On the high mileage car; the first batch of junk I dumped was ugly, I though the car went to Starbucks, I dumped roughly 3 oz of junk the first week. It gradually improves over time. Now (about 15 months later) it doesn't look like Starbucks anymore and it doesn't collect as much anymore as well, I dumped less then 1 oz a month now.

 

On the low mileage car; I had it on for roughly 6 months. It collected just a little bit of oil, probably less then 3 drips. I removed the catch can as there was no need for it.

 

The catch can I took off from the low mileage car is now installed on the Silverado. Hopefully it helps over time.

 

Finally someone answered the OP’s (me) actual question!

 

 

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On 9/7/2021 at 4:36 PM, AE1M said:

Broke down and installed a JLT catch can in 2016 HC with 60K miles.  After 1,000 miles, mostly 60mph+ I had one half ounce (.5 oz) in the can.  Is this what should be expected or better or worse?  Also, despite some other posts and You Tube vids, I hear no hiss or other noise at all.  Phone is close to engine, so engine sounds much louder than it really is!  I added the small muffler clamps, just makes me feel better.   I wish they were quick connects for ease of cleaning though.

 

 

 

 

5 hours ago, AE1M said:

Finally someone answered the OP’s (me) actual question!

 

 

 

You only asked one question.

 

EXPECT?

 

No one, no matter how much experience they have with a can, has ANY experience with YOUR truck.

 

Generic question so generic answers. 

 

You want a better result? Ask a better question.

 

Your comment is down right unappreciative of others efforts and experiences to work with such a question.

 

 

 

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I put one on my truck since i had from a past vehicle. It does collect some oil and water mix. My truck only has 18000 miles on it. And as someone else said the first check had the worse looking gunk. I was never big on catch cans coming from the LS stuff but since this is DI i figured it can only help. I also do the CRC DI spray once a year. 

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As of last evening 148,600 miles. Longer than most keep a truck. It has never had a catch can. Never had the AFM turned off. Has never had an intake spray cleaning done.  Has been meticulously maintained at more frequent intervals than even severe service intervals and is adult driven. I use premium fluids and filters. Keep it adjusted and tuned. When something is amiss that requires a prudent modification....it get's it. 

 

Does not now and never has used any oil. Her lifetime average fuel economy continues to increase. Summer time she's turn key 28 mpg and winter 25 mpg. Utters not a peep cold or hot. Will boil the tires if asked and walks smoothly to the redline when her ears are pinned back. Doesn't leak, squeak, drip or tear at the seams. With a good wash looks near new. Gets "Your a liar" type service from standard wear parts. Hauls anything I've ever asked her to without complaint. I have more confidence in her now that when she was new. She's earned that. 

 

Stops speeding bullets. Faster than than a locomotive and leaps tall buildings in a single bound. 

 

And now that I've said all that, will likely blow up on the next key cycle.

Or a deer or drunk will total her for the brag.

:P

 

 

Long trouble free life is more about great service, prudent operation, thoughtful modifications than gimmicks. There are lemons, yes, But the basket has few. They are all collected in forums.

 

God created the laws that govern everything in the Universe. When we try to break one....stuff happens.

Work with him, not against him

He gave you a wonderful brain.

Use it. 

 

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