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I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage.
By John Czech
Hello, I have a 1997 Chevy C2500 5.7 and I’m having some cooling issues. I recently did a top off of the fluids and changed the oil, we also replaced the coolant with new 50/50. The overflow tank is always completely empty after being driven for even long periods. After checking the coolant in the radiator we realized that it had gone down too. From what I have checked (and I’ve checked everywhere) there are no leaks. There’s no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, the top radiator hose is always hot but the bottom is always cold. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it but I thought it was worth mentioning. When filling the radiator back up with water I also noticed it bubbling while it was going down, is it possible there is an Air pocket? It’s important to note that the truck doesn’t overheat, or should I say it hasn’t yet. Even after taking it on a long road trip. Any reason why my coolant keeps going down and not back into my overflow? Thank you for any help!
I was at the dealer the other day getting a tire replaced and I noticed I needed a coolant flush as its been 5 years and no previous one.
When I got home I checked the reservoir and it was grossly overfilled. I doubt there's room for 7oz of expansion in it. I know sometimes this happens because it needs to burp out some air so I've driven it a couple of times but it hasn't gone down yet. I've got one of these coming tomorrow to suck the excess out if it hasn't gone down tomorrow but wondering if anyone knows about burping these or how to remove air. There doesn't appear to be a radiator cap which is likely why the reserve tank is pressurized.
Since these are pressurized reservoirs, it seems that a grossly overfilled can cause damage as there's nowhere for the pressure to go except the weakest link which is likely a hose or fitting.
My question is do these heater cores have a valve or is coolant running to them constantly? It is dead summer and I want to avoid heat on full to see if it clears out if I can.
Also judging by design, it seems like it would naturally burp itself fairly quickly.
Before the flush my needle almost always stayed constant at 210 when warmed up, now it seems to fluctuate between the 197.5 mark and 210 which leads me to think either there's still air in there or the overfill is causing excessive pressure that is altering the temp.
Want to drain and fill my coolant, wondering how much the radiator holds? I know specs say the cooling system is 16.6 quarts, but how much will come out of a drain so I have enough on hand?
Also, I am assuming DexCool from dealer is concentrate and not pre mixed right? How do you guys mix to ensure 50/50? Do you mix into a spare bottle or something first?
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