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By Jordan Walter
I was having electrical issues on my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500, which is at 197,000 miles. The issues were things like pulsing lights (interior and exterior and low voltage fluctuation (14.0v to 11.8v) so I replaced the alternator with a premium 160amp remanufactured one from CarQuest. Now my voltage seems high, sitting at 14.9v-15.2v during idle. The pulsing went away, but now it pulses when I rev the engine. I will leave it at about 1500 RPMs and it will steadily pulse until I release the gas. Is this an issue with the alternator or something else?
By Anthony Alcocer
I just got my truck less than a week ago 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 47k mi.
many given moment the truck will lose all electrical power, radio shut down, dash loses power, time resets, the works. If I auto start the it and it happens the fob is in-op, won’t lock unlock…
it is from Texas but has been in Alaska for five months, fully winterized, trickle charger, block heater, oil pan heater everything. It gets plugged in every night.
Has no reported recalls corresponding with the VIN. It does every so often have an action required to open and close the driver window.
I have seen some issues on the forum regarding ground G218 (might be wrong identifier) but the symptoms aren’t quite the same.
Part: GM 13525431, Receptacle Assembly, Multi Media *Jet Black
Just posting a thread on here if someone who has a 2019 Silverado with the one USB type B port, you can easily upgrade to a module that has a USB-C, USB-B, and an SD card port very quickly and easily in under 5 minutes.
I bought mine from eBay and it ran me $27.19 plus shipping.
I bought a trim removal kit on Amazon and used the one circled to pry it from the bottom and when the bottom popped out a bit, I pried it from the left side and it just popped out very quickly. After that, just unplug the old one and plug in the new one.
FYI, I also bought the module that just has just the USB-C and USB-B ports (without the SD card port) and I don't believe that one would work since it needs an extra cable to be plugged into and I was searching around and didn't find one -- you probably need a different harness for that one.
What I've noticed so far is that Apple CarPlay will pickup my iPhone a bit faster, skip through the songs a bit faster, and it charges my phone a bit faster, as well.
I haven't tried the SD card functionality yet but I can hope that it may be a necessary requirement for people that have IOR radios to upgrade to the IOS ones with navigation.
By Mike Gesme
I have a 2010 Silverado 1500. The instrument cluster is completely non-functional except for the check engine light.
The gauges do not work, nothing displays on the LCD, and no other lights illuminate. The check engine light will come on when the key is turned on, but as soon as the engine starts it too disappears.
Everything else seems to work - radio, A/C, etc. I checked the fuses that I figured could be related. disconnected and reconnected the battery. I banged on the dash in case of a loose connection, and even tried swapping out the cluster panel with another panel, and got the exact same behavior.
Would anyone be willing to share any advice or guesses? Should I change the ignition switch? Look for a bad ground (not sure where to start with that).
My new old '88 truck needs a new brake light switch. It's got a release switch thing for cruise control in front of it (but no cruise control on the column), and I'm wondering if anyone with a similar set up can give me some basic tips on how to get to that brake light switch, in order to take it out. Can you wiggle your fingers around in there and get it loose, or will I have to take something off to get to it? The cruise control switch is on the brass bracket from the steering column. Even if I take the cruise control switch out, it's hard to get to the brake light switch. But I'm new at this, so maybe I'm whining too early or missing something.
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