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Part: GM 13525431, Receptacle Assembly, Multi Media *Jet Black
Just posting a thread on here if someone who has a 2019 Silverado with the one USB type B port, you can easily upgrade to a module that has a USB-C, USB-B, and an SD card port very quickly and easily in under 5 minutes.
I bought mine from eBay and it ran me $27.19 plus shipping.
I bought a trim removal kit on Amazon and used the one circled to pry it from the bottom and when the bottom popped out a bit, I pried it from the left side and it just popped out very quickly. After that, just unplug the old one and plug in the new one.
FYI, I also bought the module that just has just the USB-C and USB-B ports (without the SD card port) and I don't believe that one would work since it needs an extra cable to be plugged into and I was searching around and didn't find one -- you probably need a different harness for that one.
What I've noticed so far is that Apple CarPlay will pickup my iPhone a bit faster, skip through the songs a bit faster, and it charges my phone a bit faster, as well.
I haven't tried the SD card functionality yet but I can hope that it may be a necessary requirement for people that have IOR radios to upgrade to the IOS ones with navigation.
By Mike Gesme
I have a 2010 Silverado 1500. The instrument cluster is completely non-functional except for the check engine light.
The gauges do not work, nothing displays on the LCD, and no other lights illuminate. The check engine light will come on when the key is turned on, but as soon as the engine starts it too disappears.
Everything else seems to work - radio, A/C, etc. I checked the fuses that I figured could be related. disconnected and reconnected the battery. I banged on the dash in case of a loose connection, and even tried swapping out the cluster panel with another panel, and got the exact same behavior.
Would anyone be willing to share any advice or guesses? Should I change the ignition switch? Look for a bad ground (not sure where to start with that).
My new old '88 truck needs a new brake light switch. It's got a release switch thing for cruise control in front of it (but no cruise control on the column), and I'm wondering if anyone with a similar set up can give me some basic tips on how to get to that brake light switch, in order to take it out. Can you wiggle your fingers around in there and get it loose, or will I have to take something off to get to it? The cruise control switch is on the brass bracket from the steering column. Even if I take the cruise control switch out, it's hard to get to the brake light switch. But I'm new at this, so maybe I'm whining too early or missing something.
Hello everyone and new member here. The following question and situation is related to a 2017 LTZ Silverado 4x4 with just after 40,000 miles on it. Wondering if the following codes go hand in hand with one another or no? The codes are as followed: B127E, C0800, B1325. All occurred within a month of one another with C0800 and B1325 occurring recently (five days) and together.
I am asking as I just picked up my truck from the dealership from being worked on and wondering if something else may occur soon. Has anyone else had this or any of these codes occur and what did you do to correct/fix the issue. Thank you for reading this and replying if you choose too.
So, get up one day after a snow storm to move my truck, battery dead on my 2015 Sierra Base. Original battery, didn't think much of it, boosted it, went and bought a new battery.
Next day, new battery is dead again.
Brought it to my local mechanic to troubleshoot the draw. He was noticing a 0.5V drop in 9 hours one day, then dead the following day. Charged again, looked at it at night, the heater controls were lit up, another time the instrument cluster warning lights all lit up. He also saw the dome light turn on by themselves. Prior to that, I had other intermittent issues:
- unlock the door with the key, pushed the unlock button on the door, it would not unlock the others, start the engine, then I can unlock with the door button
- parking brake light on the dash doesn't come on parking brake applied
- would crank for 10 to 15 seconds on cold mornings before starting
Spoke to another mechanic I know, he said the fuse box was the issue, he replaced 4 in the last couple of years. I got it replaced by my mechanic and brought the truck home.
I opened up the old box to see what was going on inside, it was a real mess, all corroded to ******, so pretty confident that was the issue. It's so prevalent that the local dealer keeps them in stock.
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