Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

2010 6.2L misfire and probable valve issue at 181k miles. Need advice on how far to go with a fix.


Recommended Posts

Hi everyone.  I just joined this group after searching for help with my issue on Google.  This was the first one to pop up, so you guys must be the best!

 

My issue started yesterday with my 2010 Yukon XL Denali when I was driving.  All of a sudden there was a noise and the truck hesitated for split second and then started ticking.  The Stabilitrak was disabled and the check engine light came on.  Oil pressure seemed unchanged.  Since I was only a couple miles from home I kept driving, but kept an ear out for the sounds to try to diagnose what the issue was.  After a little bit the check engine light went off, but the tick remained and seemed to follow the rpm to the engine, so it I assumed it wasn't related to the driveline.  Got home, parked the truck and started researching the potential problem.  

 

The codes that were stored were P0306 for Cylinder 6 Misfire and P219B for Fuel Trim Cylinder Balance Bank 2.  From the searching here I assumed it could be a valve issue, so I took off the passenger side valve cover and watched the rockers while cranking.  One rocker on cylinder 6 was moving, but not like the others.  I uploaded a video of a few seconds, so I hope you can see it.

 

So, it seems I have an issue with the valve.  Do you all agree that is where to start?  What would you recommend I do to fix the issue?  At 181k miles should I go all out with the engine and eliminate the AFM/DOD?  Pull the engine and go through it all?  I guess there are really two main questions:

 

1.) What do I HAVE to do to fix this?

2.) What SHOULD I do to keep the truck going long-term?

 

I have decent skills and a desire to tear into things to learn, but I don't have much diagnostic knowledge, so I'm always looking for forums like this or videos to help figure things out.  Thanks for taking the time to read this.  I really appreciate any advice you may have!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cylinder 6 is a DoD cylinder so if you ask me you have a lifter that has failed. Just hasn't failed bad enough to fully collapse and not move that valve at all.

 

If it was me I'd pull the cylinder heads and replace all the lifters to be done with it. That is if tuning was not an option for me.

 

If you had someone that could do the tuning then I'd replace the camshaft with a non AFM/DoD camshaft, new lifters, lifter trays, pushrods, valley plate and anything else you'd need. Then have it tuned. This option is going to cost more obviously.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, whynott65 said:

1.) What do I HAVE to do to fix this?

2.) What SHOULD I do to keep the truck going long-term?

 

Like Cameron suggests, it is probably a bad lifter.  You can replace the pair on that side with a new lifter tray and VLOM, new head gasket and bolts and soldier on.

 

Or you can send the heads out to be freshened up with new seals, valve springs, maybe a nice valve job, put an L9H camshaft in it and delete the AFM/DOD system.  The L9H is the non AFM version of your engine.  Have BlackBear tune it and you'll be knocking on 13s in the quarter mile with your 5900 pound truck!  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like going the full AFM/DOD delete makes the most sense long-term.  Do you guys think its ok to leave the lower engine alone as long as I don't see anything obvious once the heads are off?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, whynott65 said:

It sounds like going the full AFM/DOD delete makes the most sense long-term.  Do you guys think its ok to leave the lower engine alone as long as I don't see anything obvious once the heads are off?

Yes, but I would suggest replacing the o-ring in the oil pump pick up tube and maybe putting a fresh bypass valve in the oil pan.  If you are going to yank the motor, why not put some fresh bearings in it and new rings for the pistons?  If not, that would be fine since the oil pressure is good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.