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Noise coming from front right wheel.


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I have a 2009 Suburban, and when driving, I hear a constant low-pitched noise that sounds similar to wind noise, or far away thunder coming from the front right wheel, and it is not very loud. At higher speeds, it gets quieter, but that might just be the wind and road noise drowning it out. Sometimes, when driving slower, or turning, it makes a louder clanking/crunching metal on metal noise for around a second. The first symptom makes me think it is a wheel bearing, and the second seems like some suspension bushing issue. I'm pretty sure it is just one part that is failing as both symptoms started at the same time. What could be the cause of this problem, and what should I do to further diagnose it?

Edited by 2009_Suburban
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More than likely the wheel bearing.  have you jacked it up to check it cuz if its making a crunching noise its probably coming apart and may cause more damage and possible loss of brakes if you keep driving it and it fails totally

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For checking the wheel bearing, how would I get to it? I dont have a real jack, only the one that came with the car. Can I use this one, or should I get a better jack and jack stands? I also checked all the suspension, bushings and other stuff near there, and it looks the same as the other side.

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Most likely wheel bearing.  Most of the time(not 100%) you can test by jacking it up and firmly grabbing wheel and trying to move up and down.  If you have some play then most definitely your wheel bearing.  Also spin the wheel and if you hear a grinding noise then again wheel bearing.  If no issue there then is possibly your CV axle.  Check the CV axle boot for a tear if there is a tear and grease has leaked out then that is a problem.  

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If it is your wheel bearing do not cheap out on it.  That is one of those parts you want to go OEM. So many times I hear of other brands going bad after just 6 months or less(brand new).  Just spend the extra $$ and be good for years.  For removal it can either be easy or a huge PITA.  If you are in an environment of corrosion then that hub can be stuck on there pretty good.  There is a few methods to get off but what I have seen and by far the one to get off even the most stubborn hub is if you have an old rotor( or just do the rotor/brakes at same time), put it on backwards.  Then use a good size pipe wrench and attach to the top of rotor snug.  Then grab a sledge hammer.  Usually within 4 wacks no matter how stuck it is on there, it comes off.  Best method that works for me to get even the most stubborn ones off.

Edited by Brenden Burnham
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Timken is good too.

 

I have a buddy who just did both front wheel bearings and one rear on his 99. The right front is O'Reilly brand, MasterPro(?), and the left front is Timken. We will see how long each lasts lol

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6 minutes ago, shakenfake said:

Timken is good too.

 

I have a buddy who just did both front wheel bearings and one rear on his 99. The right front is O'Reilly brand, MasterPro(?), and the left front is Timken. We will see how long each lasts lol

Yeah I have heard of recent issues with Moog to be exact.  They use to be good but seems have gone down hill for certain parts this is one of them.  

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make sure you use a torque wrench on the axle nut, too loose or too tight will quickly ruin a new bearing. if you don't even have a jack hopefully you have a good set of quality sockets and wrenches. you may round off the bolts retaining the bearing to the knuckle with cheap sockets then you have a MAJOR PITA. they are tight and locktited

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6 minutes ago, richard wysong said:

make sure you use a torque wrench on the axle nut, too loose or too tight will quickly ruin a new bearing. if you don't even have a jack hopefully you have a good set of quality sockets and wrenches. you may round off the bolts retaining the bearing to the knuckle with cheap sockets then you have a MAJOR PITA. they are tight and locktited

Especially the fact you have no room to work those back three 15mm bolts.  Cannot even get any socket on them(2000 gmc sierra 1500) only a wrench.  I purchased a 15mm long wrench just for the job.  Those bolts are on there no doubt.  DO NOT strip them, then like you said you are in trouble.  Had more trouble with those bolts than the axle nut or even getting the hub off.  

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Brenden Burnham said:

Most likely wheel bearing.  Most of the time(not 100%) you can test by jacking it up and firmly grabbing wheel and trying to move up and down.  If you have some play then most definitely your wheel bearing.  Also spin the wheel and if you hear a grinding noise then again wheel bearing.  If no issue there then is possibly your CV axle.  Check the CV axle boot for a tear if there is a tear and grease has leaked out then that is a problem.  

I did that, and it moved a lot! I also tried the other wheel, and it moved a tiny bit up and down, and took more force to move. Is the other wheel normal, or should I replace the bearings on that one too?

 

Also, on rockauto.com, it shows a inner bearing, and an outer one. Should I get both? Are there any tuturials or writeups that I can use that will help me?

Edited by 2009_Suburban
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49 minutes ago, 2009_Suburban said:

I did that, and it moved a lot! I also tried the other wheel, and it moved a tiny bit up and down, and took more force to move. Is the other wheel normal, or should I replace the bearings on that one too?

 

Also, on rockauto.com, it shows a inner bearing, and an outer one. Should I get both? Are there any tuturials or writeups that I can use that will help me?

 

Part# 84856653

Wheel bearing and hub assembly.  

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php?#

 

Put in your info and you can find the OE part number.  

MY FAVORITE METHOD USING OLD ROTOR AND PIPE WRENCH

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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sounds like you may be over your head on this as far as having the tools and knowledge to complete this repair. the brakes need to be completely disassembled to do the bearings and if you don't even know how to check a bearing it's doubtful you have the expertise to safely do this repair but there are plenty of tutorials out there if you are willing to learn. no shame in asking for help if you get stuck, better than making a mistake that may affect the safety of the vehicle

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17 hours ago, Brenden Burnham said:

Yeah I have heard of recent issues with Moog to be exact.  They use to be good but seems have gone down hill for certain parts this is one of them.  

That's all forum talk. My dad has a Jeep that he completely rebuilt the front end suspension with Moog a few years ago with no issues. When I rebuilt my truck's front suspension I did all Moog, except for lower control arms since that was how I achieved my drop.

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49 minutes ago, shakenfake said:

That's all forum talk. My dad has a Jeep that he completely rebuilt the front end suspension with Moog a few years ago with no issues. When I rebuilt my truck's front suspension I did all Moog, except for lower control arms since that was how I achieved my drop.

Yeah your probably right you only ever hear about the rare instance of an issue compared to the TONS that are out there on the road with no issue.  

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