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Noise coming from front right wheel.


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By all means if you're going to do this get QUALITY jack stands and a jack. You CAN use a bottle jack (so names for it's shape) and safely lift each side one at a time or get a floor jack and lift each end, but always, always always, always, always, always use quality jack stands and use quality tools. If you buy cheap you're gonna buy twice.

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I agree but my local NAPA store feels the same as Moog was aquired by some conglomerate and most of the parts are  Chinese junk now

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Is the ACDelco Gold bearings good? Its not technically the genuine one, but they are still the same company that makes the genuine one.

 

Also, the other wheel moves when I move it up and down (but not left and right), but the brake caliper and other stuff move with it, and it stops moving at the upper ball joint. This means the wheel bearing for the other wheel is fine right?

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do you have it jacked up under the control arm? if so it sounds like the ball joints are worn out. if they are unless you're replacing the control arms you may want to let a shop do them but if you want to try it you can rent the press at the parts store. this is another part you don't want to skimp on as the cheap ones probably won't last a year and even name brand stuff  may only be good for a couple. I got tired of changing mine and am using the best  I could find, heavy duty off road racing supposedly parts.road conditions have a lot to do with how fast they wear, hard braking over rough surfaces is hard on them and here in New England the roads are a mess. if you're not going to grease them don't buy ones with grease fittings, lots of oil change places don't even look for grease fittings anymore and its almost impossible to get at the fittings from 1 of those pits

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Just replaced both fronts in the wife's GMC with NTN (Japan bearings) loaded in South Korean forged hubs. Sourced from Bumper to Bumper. Just under $600 for the pair. 😱 BUT....Lifetime Warranty on parts, 3 years on labor

 

1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

Check these out. I forget who posted these on here but said they were using them. Quality product.

https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/us/en/product-assortment/automotive/wheel-end/x-tracker-hub-bearings

 

 

IF Pepper ever needs a set this looks good. Thank you for the source! 

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10 hours ago, 2009_Suburban said:

Is the ACDelco Gold bearings good? Its not technically the genuine one, but they are still the same company that makes the genuine one.

 

Also, the other wheel moves when I move it up and down (but not left and right), but the brake caliper and other stuff move with it, and it stops moving at the upper ball joint. This means the wheel bearing for the other wheel is fine right?

If it were me, if you are getting bad up and down movement as well as side to side I would replace both control arms instead of trying the ball joints.  At a minimum you have to rent a ball joint press to do that part if doing the ball joints.  Replacing the control arm is the route to go.  I would do both side control arm and also Wheel hub bearing.  As the other may be on the way out as well.  

 

Some good videos.  

 

 

 

Edited by Brenden Burnham
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Here are the tools and parts I have, or I will be getting. Wheel bearing, sockets, ratchets, wrenches, torque wrench, jack, jack stands, WD-40, and a breaker bar. Is there anything else I will need to change the wheel bearings? Would I have to grease anything?

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 you should clean and lube the knuckle where the bearing seats so a drill with a wire wheel will help. make sure you clean the mating surface so the new bearing doesn't have a bunch of rust under it. never seize the axle stub. the jobs easier if you disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle and push the axle in as far as it will go. don't use a pickle fork on the tie rod though, just give the knuckle where the tie rod taper is a couple wacks with a hammer and it should pop loose. DO NOT hit the threaded part!

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Posted (edited)

Will I need loctite for anything? Also, I got a 36 mm  socket for the axle nut. Other posts on similar forums said it was either 35 or 36 mm. The 36 mm socket seems to rotate back and forth slightly, but is a six point. It will probably get the nut off fine, but will it lead to inaccurate torque when I put the nut back on?

Edited by 2009_Suburban
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you could re locktite the 3 bolts but its really not neccesary, just get them good and tight, torque them if you can get a socket on them, you will be ok with the 36, clean the threads and give them a shot of WD

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