WDH or not on 1-Ton Trucks

Another JR · February 21, 2023

Here’s the GM towing guide in case it’s any help. It has lots of towing spec info.

https://www.gmc.com/content/dam/gmc/na/us/english/index/about/trailering-towing/02-pdfs/03-pdfs/GMTB21CT100_2021_GMC_Trailering Guide_DIGITAL.pdf

MTU Alum · February 21, 2023

I will try to explain the trailer label better to help with confusion here. The only numbers on the trailer label that are VIN specific are payload, GVW, RGAWR, curb weight, and GCW. The rest of the trailering numbers are MODEL specific and may not represent what your truck can actually haul because your curb weight could be significantly higher.

The hitches are rated to the following maximum numbers 20,000 lbs conventional, 32,000 lbs fifth wheel, and 36,000 lbs GN. So, if you don't exceed 2000 tongue load or 15% of FW or GN numbers you will be fine assuming you don't exceed GVW, RGAWR, and GCW.

The trailering numbers are based SAE J2807 calculation. For trucks with GVW over 8600 lbs, the calculation uses base model mass + 300lbs passengers + 100lbs cargo + hitch weight (70GN, 120conv, 250FW lbs) + 10% conv or 15% GN/FW until you hit GVW, RGAWR, or GCW. This is the maximum weight you could potentially haul if the trailer combination meets all the performance targets like handling, acceleration, braking, etc.

The maximum tongue/pin weight are just what the numbers need to meet SAE calculation not the max of the hitch itself.

As far as WDH, GM for heavy duty tests both cases. For Sway, it's worst case to test without WDH. For understeer, it's worst case to test with WDH. If we past both tests, we say WDH not required.

I personally would recommend a WDH if you have any issues with sway. Cranking up the bars, adds friction and reduces sway.

#iworkforGM

Jettech1 · February 21, 2023

17 minutes ago, MTU Alum said:

I will try to explain the trailer label better to help with confusion here. The only numbers on the trailer label that are VIN specific are payload, GVW, RGAWR, curb weight, and GCW. The rest of the trailering numbers are MODEL specific and may not represent what your truck can actually haul because your curb weight could be significantly higher.

The hitches are rated to the following maximum numbers 20,000 lbs conventional, 32,000 lbs fifth wheel, and 36,000 lbs GN. So, if you don't exceed 2000 tongue load or 15% of FW or GN numbers you will be fine assuming you don't exceed GVW, RGAWR, and GCW.

The trailering numbers are based SAE J2807 calculation. For trucks with GVW over 8600 lbs, the calculation uses base model mass + 300lbs passengers + 100lbs cargo + hitch weight (70GN, 120conv, 250FW lbs) + 10% conv or 15% GN/FW until you hit GVW, RGAWR, or GCW. This is the maximum weight you could potentially haul if the trailer combination meets all the performance targets like handling, acceleration, braking, etc.

The maximum tongue/pin weight are just what the numbers need to meet SAE calculation not the max of the hitch itself.

As far as WDH, GM for heavy duty tests both cases. For Sway, it's worst case to test without WDH. For understeer, it's worst case to test with WDH. If we past both tests, we say WDH not required.

I personally would recommend a WDH if you have any issues with sway. Cranking up the bars, adds friction and reduces sway.

#iworkforGM

Excellent post!! I for one really enjoyed the education you just provided. But I have to ask, how on earth do the sway bars really help? There is only like an inch and a half of surface area that the bars ride on. I know they are under pressure but still. I just can't imagine that that little surface area really provides any help when it comes to sway. In your research, do they really help?

Dr1ft3r · February 21, 2023

1 hour ago, MTU Alum said:

The hitches are rated to the following maximum numbers 20,000 lbs conventional, 32,000 lbs fifth wheel, and 36,000 lbs GN. So, if you don't exceed 2000 tongue load or 15% of FW or GN numbers you will be fine assuming you don't exceed GVW, RGAWR, and GCW.

The maximum tongue/pin weight are just what the numbers need to meet SAE calculation not the max of the hitch itself.

Thanks for this info! It jibes with what I already believed about the capabilities of the conventional hitch, but I couldn't find any info confirming that belief. So I was at the mercy of the only info available, the door sticker. The sticker states to refer to the owner's manual for more info but there was no helpful info as far as hitch capacity.

RnA2021 · February 21, 2023

21 hours ago, Jettech1 said:

This is the one we use. https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Fastway/FA92-00-1000.html

But I'm still curious as to how our camper would tow without using it. I bought a fastway 12k hitch the other day. I think I'll try just using that on our next outing to see if the WDH really makes a difference.

We have the same hitch as Jettech1. We had a 3500HD when we bought the trailer, but now have a 2500HD. The dealer told us to use the hitch. Our travel trailer is 24 ft in length with a GVWR of 7500 lbs, and tongue weight may be 600 lbs. I might try towing without the sway bars to see how it handles. We have to back up a slight hill to park our trailer and need to disconnect the bars to do so anyhow.

Jettech1 · February 21, 2023

43 minutes ago, RnA2021 said:

We have the same hitch as Jettech1. We had a 3500HD when we bought the trailer, but now have a 2500HD. The dealer told us to use the hitch. Our travel trailer is 24 ft in length with a GVWR of 7500 lbs, and tongue weight may be 600 lbs. I might try towing without the sway bars to see how it handles. We have to back up a slight hill to park our trailer and need to disconnect the bars to do so anyhow.

I just bought this hitch the other day from Amazon. I think I'm going to try just using it. It's a beast of a hitch and it's rated well above what our camper weighs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CY98H1X?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

XY74 · February 22, 2023

Is there a particular reason you (OP) don't want to use a WDH? I haven't towed my camper with this truck without one, but every other vehicle I have ever towed with worked better with a WDH. Handling, ride, stability. Especially with a heavy lumbering toy hauler I would definitely use a WDH, YMMV.

Yes, it has been my experience that the sway control hitches do work, some better than others of course. I have a Propride hitch that I bought when I was towing with an Excursion, but still use it with this truck. Tows like the trailer is on rails, even in strong crosswinds! Overkill on this truck, but helped the relatively short SUV a lot.

Dr1ft3r · February 22, 2023

2 hours ago, XY74 said:

Is there a particular reason you (OP) don't want to use a WDH? I haven't towed my camper with this truck without one, but every other vehicle I have ever towed with worked better with a WDH. Handling, ride, stability. Especially with a heavy lumbering toy hauler I would definitely use a WDH, YMMV.

Yes, it has been my experience that the sway control hitches do work, some better than others of course. I have a Propride hitch that I bought when I was towing with an Excursion, but still use it with this truck. Tows like the trailer is on rails, even in strong crosswinds! Overkill on this truck, but helped the relatively short SUV a lot.

One reason being that I go completely off road a lot. I would have to disconnect the hitch every time I wanted to leave the road as it would put a lot of strain on the frame of the trailer when I drive over such uneven terrain.

Another reason is that I don't like having to constantly load and unload such a heavy hitch from my truck. It's not the kind of hitch I would drive around with when not towing.

Lastly, it takes longer to hook up and unhook a WDH than a standard hitch. Then when unhooked, I have to find a place to store the WDH, usually in the passthrough storage in the front of the camper, which takes up storage space.

A WDH isn't completely necessary to overcome adverse conditions. It just makes it easier. I don't like getting too comfortable because complacency when towing is what usually leads to people getting into trouble while towing, IMO. I bought a 1-ton truck because I want some towing capacity buffer and I don't want to use a WDH unless required by law or manufacturer (some states require WDH if using less than a certain size truck and the trailer is over a certain weight).

By towing capacity buffer I mean GVWR. More weight means a trailer of a given size will have less impact on the tow vehicle. A 1-ton truck has a higher GVWR and a higher curb weight to give it a head start on total weight. The wheelbase of the tow vehicle is another factor, longer is better since it means it will take more weight on the hitch to lift the front wheels off of the ground. There's really no advantage here over a 2500 since they are the same wheelbase for the given cab and bed sizes, at least with GM.

As an example: I have a Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108FBS that I towed with a SUV and a WDH was required for a trailer of that weight (~5500# wet weight and ~600# tongue weight). This truck tows that trailer better with no WDH than my SUV tows it with the WDH. This truck doesn't hardly know it's there. It's all relative. There are pros and cons with each tow method. Do what makes you happy.

Edited February 22, 2023 by Dr1ft3r
Clarified Info

UWSkier · February 24, 2023

Fun fact of trailer shopping is that most of them are quite a bit heavier from the factory than the number suggests. Once you add batteries, propane, jacks, chocks, lawn chairs... your tongue weight will be hundreds of pounds higher than what the trailer manufacturer states. In fact, most are much heavier even without all that stuff.

Another nice benefit of WDH is it can help lift your truck up off any overload springs. Ideally, you want a couple inches of suspension travel before engaging those springs because of the roughness they bring to the ride.

Jettech1 · February 26, 2023

This whole weight topic can get cloudy at times. Now I did do the whole CAT scale thing a few months ago with my truck and camper, the scales said my camper was 8k, 7k on the axles, a thousand somewhere else. That doesn't mean all 1k was on my hitch. With GM and I think Ram or Ford, they are going to be putting in actual weight scales on the new trucks. This frightens some, I actually love it if they are accurate. Because a lot of this is a guessing game, like looking at how much weight you lost on your front axle and how much more is on your rear axle loaded and unloaded. And remember your hitch is quite a ways behind the rear axle. Without one of those cool weight sensors that will actually weigh your hitch, you have no idea. Even with a WDH and who knows if your bars are really set right? I mean you can use a level of course to make sure the weight of your camper or trailer is even on both axles, and that of course is really important so you don't overload the front set of tires, or worse yet, not have enough weight on your hitch. But how much do we really know for sure? I for one don't think my WDH does a damn thing, I hooked up our camper the other day with that hitch I bought from Amazon and my truck squatted exactly the same as it did with the WDH. So I have questions....lol....And going down the highway at 65mph with a WDH on our camper, and a tractor trailer goes by me at 80mph, I get the huge push and pull no matter what. And I don't think there's anything that will counter that from what I've read. So I see why many say they (WDH) is not needed for a 2500 and up. My truck is only 200lbs less than my camper. Sorry I wrote a book here. I've been working 12 hour days for I don't know how long. I'm just wanting a day off to drool and do nothing....lol....Sit back, do the Al Bundy thing in front of the TV.......Anyhow I love this topic but to me it brings up more questions than it answers. And in all honesty, I welcome weight sensors from the manufacturers. Let's stop this guessing game and CAT scales guessing game as well.

64BAwagon · February 26, 2023

I would disagree on the 1000# not being on the hitch. Theres literally nowhere else it could possibly be. If the trailer weigh 8k and the axles weigh 7k then by default theres 1k on the tongue of the trailer.

A properly sized, correctly setup WDH should restore the tow vehicle back to static ride height when connected. The main purpose being the weigh transfer to the front axle which helps with brake bias. Even with modern ABS its still better to have the weight as evenly distributed as possible.

The issue gets complex because of the variety of WDH setups on the market. Each one having its own setup needs.

Sway control is a mostly separate issue with device ranging from friction bars to cams to chains and on to the Hensley/Propride etc.

I have quite a bit of experience with the Reese straight line system which by definition is an "active" setup meaning that the tension on the bars and their positions on the cams exerts force to keep the trailer moving straight. The friction is a passive meaning that it only tries to buffer the sway but exerts no force to the effort to move the trailer back into line.

One of our previous setups was an 11k 36ft travel trailer pulled by an 05 Silverado 2500HD. Even with the Reese hitch it could still be a handful in cross winds due to the lateral forces from winds and the height/width of the sidewalls.

Theres no way I could have pulled that trailer or its 32ft predecessor without a WDH that included active sway control.

Hitch discussions are always funny and are clouded by shifty RV dealers trying to sell whatever POS hitch they make the most $$ off of.

Dr1ft3r · February 26, 2023

While a WDH can help lessen adverse effects while towing, it's the load distribution in the trailer that is going to have the greatest effect on how the trailer handles. Which is why it's important to always know the weight of the trailer and the weight of the tongue. Too much tongue weight can lift the front wheels off of the ground which can result in loss of steering control and braking ability. Too little tongue weight can result in severe sway.

I stumbled on this video while trying to find the hard numbers for maximum tongue weight on our trucks.

sheath · February 26, 2023

Great conversation here. One thing I've noticed pulling a heavy bumper hitch trailer on my truck is how much rear squat the truck gets before being stopped by overloads. That points the headlights up high, and really makes oncoming traffic unhappy. I borrowed a friends WHD hitch, and liked the way the truck pulled with it. Truck was pretty level, and smoother ride on rough winding roads.

For reference here is the data plate for my truck. High payload, but as is typical of SAE stickers, very conservative on tongue/hitch #s.

Another JR · February 26, 2023

The factory seems to adjust the headlights for the empty attitude. They are very easily adjustable with a long 6mm Allen wrench. I keep the wrench in the glove compartment in case I ever want to change it on a trip.

Polo08816 · February 26, 2023

On 2/21/2023 at 11:58 PM, Dr1ft3r said:

One reason being that I go completely off road a lot. I would have to disconnect the hitch every time I wanted to leave the road as it would put a lot of strain on the frame of the trailer when I drive over such uneven terrain.

Another reason is that I don't like having to constantly load and unload such a heavy hitch from my truck. It's not the kind of hitch I would drive around with when not towing.

Lastly, it takes longer to hook up and unhook a WDH than a standard hitch. Then when unhooked, I have to find a place to store the WDH, usually in the passthrough storage in the front of the camper, which takes up storage space.

A WDH isn't completely necessary to overcome adverse conditions. It just makes it easier. I don't like getting too comfortable because complacency when towing is what usually leads to people getting into trouble while towing, IMO. I bought a 1-ton truck because I want some towing capacity buffer and I don't want to use a WDH unless required by law or manufacturer (some states require WDH if using less than a certain size truck and the trailer is over a certain weight).

By towing capacity buffer I mean GVWR. More weight means a trailer of a given size will have less impact on the tow vehicle. A 1-ton truck has a higher GVWR and a higher curb weight to give it a head start on total weight. The wheelbase of the tow vehicle is another factor, longer is better since it means it will take more weight on the hitch to lift the front wheels off of the ground. There's really no advantage here over a 2500 since they are the same wheelbase for the given cab and bed sizes, at least with GM.

As an example: I have a Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108FBS that I towed with a SUV and a WDH was required for a trailer of that weight (~5500# wet weight and ~600# tongue weight). This truck tows that trailer better with no WDH than my SUV tows it with the WDH. This truck doesn't hardly know it's there. It's all relative. There are pros and cons with each tow method. Do what makes you happy.

This is one of the considerations of why I might go with a 1 ton HD SRW gas for trailering a track car on a tilt bed trailer.

At 6,000 to 7,000 lbs and 25 % of it on the hitch, I can probably get away without using a WDH. That's a significant reduction in time required to hitch up on a Sunday afternoon as we finish up at the track.