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Brand New 2023 Silverado RST dead in the driveway


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Truck wouldn't start. Suspected battery so I charged it overnight.  Check engine light remained on.  Was able to start and drive it to the dealer the next morning, about 10 miles and 20 minutes.  They checked the battery and said it was good.  Didn't say anything about the alternator.  Only has 1700 miles since purchase 1/30/2023.  Dealer said I wasn't driving it enough and to put it on a trickle charger which I thought was ridiculous for a brand new truck.  1st time I've been stranded since I junked an Oldsmobile I bought new in 1985,  Haven't owned a GM product since that awful experience.  Took a chance that they were building better.  

 

Any thoughts on why my truck battery died?  Nothing was left on, I double checked.  

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How long did it sit?  You eluded to the dealer making such a statement, but never told us how often you drive it.  My wife's car sat for 5 months while she was deployed.  The battery died.  I had installed a new battery in the car only 4 months prior to her leaving on her deployment.  I knew I should've installed a battery tender, but was lazy and didn't.  There are no other problems with the car, and in this scenario it wouldn't matter if she drove a GM, VW, Toyota, etc.  It would've still happened.  Fortunately, her battery was replaced under warranty since it was less than 1 year old. 

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8 hours ago, Doc Q said:

Truck wouldn't start. Suspected battery so I charged it overnight.  Check engine light remained on.  Was able to start and drive it to the dealer the next morning, about 10 miles and 20 minutes.  They checked the battery and said it was good.  Didn't say anything about the alternator.  Only has 1700 miles since purchase 1/30/2023.  Dealer said I wasn't driving it enough and to put it on a trickle charger which I thought was ridiculous for a brand new truck.  1st time I've been stranded since I junked an Oldsmobile I bought new in 1985,  Haven't owned a GM product since that awful experience.  Took a chance that they were building better.  

 

Any thoughts on why my truck battery died?  Nothing was left on, I double checked.  

I’ve had two vehicles that would deplete the battery if not driven every two weeks. Both also had aftermarket alarms. Both different brands. The one that’s left stays on a tender. The other two that currently sit for two weeks while we’re away seem unaffected by sitting. There’s probably a draw I would definitely take it to the dealership.

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Don't forget how long it sat in storage before you even got it with the battery being drawn down by all those modern conveniences pulling memory power out of the battery.  

Drive it regularly or put it on a maintainer. It's a computer on tires, it's not the '70's anymore. 

My '20 Traverse sits for weeks without being used, it's in the garage plugged in right now. 

Truck would have told you alternator was not working, Volt gauge. 

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Only has 1700 miles since purchase 1/30/2023. 

Dealer said I wasn't driving it enough and to put it on a trickle charger.

👍

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This just happened to someone I know with a 23 Sierra. He went to start it and the instrument cluster comes on for a second but turns right off. Truck doesn’t start. 

 

He drives it every day and the truck didn’t sit for more than 12 hours before the issue. Guessing it has around 4K miles on it. 

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Posted (edited)

I drive the truck every day or every other day at the least.  Truck does not sit for more than a few days.  Trips are mostly short around town.  I'm wondering if running the A/C with the auto shut off isn't draining the battery and it doesn't have enough time to recharge on these short trips.  I'll turn off the engine stop for short trips and see if it recurs. 

 

I did notice that the battery indicator is frequently below the middle of the indicator since the dead battery.  I never really looked at it much before.   I didn't see anything in the manual about what it should read.

 

4CC9CCA5-28FF-4B17-A30C-BB2E07AAF5CF_1_102_o.thumb.jpeg.393d2e9129f2724ad309a04b3bf227a6.jpeg

 

 

 

Edited by Doc Q
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The problem isn't the truck or more accurate the battery, it's the way you use it. Put a battery maintainer on it, problem solved.

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  • 2 weeks later...

2023 Silverado 1500 RST 6.2L with max tow-package 220 amp alternator.  I never leave lights on, or leave the phone or any other device plugged in the truck etc.  I have less than 2500 miles on the truck and have been stuck with a battery too low to crank the starter twice in warm coastal Virginia temps. The weak battery issues started within the first two weeks of ownership. In the beginning, the noted issue was the factory radio cutting output to the speakers, at what seemed random times while I was driving.  It didn't matter what source, iPhone, Am/FM/satellite, there would suddenly be no sound for any features at all like navigation etc...  it would come back on after the truck was turned off and restarted sometime later.  I didn't know what was going on with that.  I was told the truck is programmed to cut non-essential accessories when battery power is low, ok, but why is my battery power low? After learning that the speaker cut out was possibly related to the battery charge I began to pay attention the the battery meter on the dash, sure enough, somewhere between the first quarter and the normal mid mark is where sound would cut out.

 

 I had the dealer check my battery out last time I called roadside assistance due to a too dead to crank battery and I was fed the same line others have mentioned about how the battery and alternator are fine, but I need to drive my truck more to give the alternator the chance to charge the battery back up. They also told me to have the aftermarket stereo amp installer check out the wiring as it could be a parasitic draw...but the problem began before the amplifier was installed...no explanation for that. 

 

I do drive short distances, I work at a hospital 3 miles from my house, I work 12 hour shifts.  I basically drive to WalMart, Home Depot and Tractor Supply, maybe TJMaxx if I score a hot date with the hubby, everything is less than 5 miles from home, I can't help it, I'm simple and love living a small town life.   I'm putting like 100 miles a week on the truck unless I am towing the camper out of town.  Driving more than I am required to for my needs is not an acceptable solution to the problem.  Having to plug my truck into a battery maintainer every night is not an acceptable solution to the problem.  I think those kinds of suggestions are lazy brush-offs. When the service department said that, I felt what they were really saying between the lines is that they don't value my time or safety enough to look into it any further, I'm on my own.  The truck, as originally equipped, is not presently able to power all the electronic functions they've loaded into it.  It isn't working as advertised, so to speak. The paranoid conspiracy theorist inside me wonders how much of the problem maybe wireless data collection behind the scenes- you know...just when is the My Chevrolet app getting my vehicle data?  Is google tracking everywhere I drive?  How much power does the endless privacy invasion require and is it occurring when the vehicle is shut off? Will a tinfoil hat help?

 

I have tried driving with start/stop always turned off, I never put my phone on the charger, I completely disconnected my aftermarket stereo amp. Did this, not using multiple featured factory Chevy conveninence options sold to me for two weeks, this included a 175 mile day trip and two extra 50 mile shopping trips I didn't need to make but did just to see if the alternator could "catch up" with the extra miles .  Nothing changed. The truck dash battery meter shows center/normal before I shut the ignition off, the next time I go to start the truck, whether it's 12 hours or 12 minutes later, the battery meter is down to the first quarter and it takes a long time to get back to center...again without running any elective electronic features, and with nothing plugged into any outlets. Every single day is the same story. I got mad because I couldn't improve the situation even with going without things I wanted to use, so I said F-it, and hooked my amp back up...of course after a few hours, the speaker feed signal cuts out again because the battery is low so I still have no music.

 

Personally (anectodally/gut-feeling/no engineering knowledge/empiric data or psychic powers involved) I think it may be that GM put an insufficient battery in, I suspect every manufacturer puts crappy/minimal batteries in these days.  I had a similar problem with my previous 2018 Honda CRV; the original factory battery drained slowly, constantly, to the point it wouldn't start like once every two or three weeks, phantom parasitic draws with absolutely nothing but the original facotry equipment and diligence with ensuring everything that can be manually turned off was off every time I shut the car off.  For the CRV, I put a Die Hard platinum AGM battery in and never had a problem again, my son is still driving it and hasn't had any problems.  This is what I'm trying for the truck next, though I'm having a hard time looking for the right size battery and understanding what is more important for my issue...I don't think it's the cranking amps I need to worry as much about, I'm inclined to think its the amp hours and reserve capacity that I should pay the most attention to, but I'm not sure.  I also don't like that one auto parts store says a battery they have is an exact match for my truck but that manuafacturer's (Optima)website says they DONT have an exact match.  I wish someone could tell me what a good battery is and which specific one can drop right into my truck so that the person at the auto parts store will actually do it for me.

 

If a new/better battery doesn't fix the problem I honestly don't know what I'll do, I'm upset about having this issue at all, like really upset, to the point it has soured my overall opinion of the truck as a whole...yes I can still lay a nice strip of rubber at the stop light if I am so inclined but I can't annoy the outdoor patrons of the corner brew-pub with 1300 watts of Lynyrd Skynyrd.   I don't want to lose my temper with people, even ones who patronize me- I don't like making a fuss, I just want it to work the way it is supposed to. If I go back into the shop with the same trouble and get told to drive more miles or use a trickle charger again I fear I could blow a mental gasket. I'll either cry like someone killed my kitten or set the place on fire, it's anyone's guess at that point.  The entire reason I bought this truck was so I could take my camper out nice an easy- Memorial Day weekend I cancelled my trip because I was afraid of getting stuck with a dead battery in a remote location with no cell service...a couple hundred miles from our old and reliable 2012 Silverado.  I'm pissed off I have to call my husband to bring the old Silverado out to the hospital late at night to jump my brand new one. His truck sits undriven for weeks at a time with a eight+ year old battery in it and it cranks every time...even with an aftermarket stereo amp in it.  it's making me sad that I hold more love and respect in my heart for the old 2012 Silverado than this new one I paid literally 2X the money for. 

 

Is there anything else I should try to resolve the battery drain?  I want to love this truck so much, but right now I just feel like a fool for having bought it!

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See Doc Q post. Same problem.

You don't drive it enough to keep the battery charged. 

Try a battery maintainer. 

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Lisa Anderson, sorry to hear about that! My 2022.5  would have died today if i didn't hear the fan on. Had to disconnect battery. The dealer is not much help sometimes. Mechanics get paid to bolt on parts, not to diagnose. So if nothing is found in 15 minutes, it's kicked out the door. You might have to help find the issue on your own. Is the battery getting discharged while sitting? Or is the Alternator not charging enough....or a bad battery.

For free, you can disconnect the battery when parked at work. 10mm socket and cable is off in seconds. For $20, a battery disconnect can be put on battery that you simply twist off. When you're done the shift, simply flick on. If that truck starts ok, there is a draw. But you can start it!  If it doesn't start, the battery is bad.  Dealer has to find it now. Second, a voltmeter plugged into lighter will show charging voltage. It should go to 15 volts and taper off to 13.5 after 20 mins. A battery tester, old school one like $30 will put a load on battery and tell you if it's weak, and show charging voltage. If you start the truck and it's only showing 12.5 volts, that's no good. Take a pic to show dealer.

A portable solar charger panel is handy to toss in windshield to help battery and block sun. A portable booster may be best thing to have as well.

The heat is worse thing on batteries...Alaska sells less batteries than FLA.

I'm a construction equipment tech and see these problems on every type of machine.

 

I feel you have a major draw. Have the dealer check this service bulletin and re flash the computer with latest software

see these current service bulletins from GM

Good luck

 

#PIT5873G: After A Remote Start When The Start Button Is Pressed The Engine May Stall or Will Not Restart / Ignition May Appear To Be Stuck On / Engine May Stay Running With Ignition Off / Service Column Lock Message / DTC P0E32 and P0E37/ Dead Battery - (Feb 27, 2023)
Subject: 

After A Remote Start When The Start Button Is Pressed The Engine May Stall or Will Not Restart / Ignition May Appear To Be Stuck On / Engine May Stay Running With Ignition Off / Service Column Lock Message / DTC P0E32 and P0E37/ Dead Battery

 

#23-NA-095: Lane Keep Assist Unavailable / Adaptive Cruise Control Inop / Service Driver Assist Systems / Amber Front Collision Icon On / Dead Battery / No Crank / Front View Camera / Auto Start Stop Inop / Unable to Complete Camera Learn Stops At 94% / DTC U3000 44 49 54 and/or 57 - (May 25, 2023)
Subject:  Lane Keep Assist Unavailable / Adaptive Cruise Control Inop / Service Driver Assist Systems / Amber Front Collision Icon On / Dead Battery / No Crank / Front View Camera / Auto Start Stop Inop / Unable To Complete Camera Learn Stops At 94% /DTC U3000 44 49 54 and/or 57
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On 5/21/2023 at 10:45 PM, Doc Q said:

Truck wouldn't start. Suspected battery so I charged it overnight.  Check engine light remained on.  Was able to start and drive it to the dealer the next morning, about 10 miles and 20 minutes.  They checked the battery and said it was good.  Didn't say anything about the alternator.  Only has 1700 miles since purchase 1/30/2023.  Dealer said I wasn't driving it enough and to put it on a trickle charger which I thought was ridiculous for a brand new truck.  1st time I've been stranded since I junked an Oldsmobile I bought new in 1985,  Haven't owned a GM product since that awful experience.  Took a chance that they were building better.  

 

Any thoughts on why my truck battery died?  Nothing was left on, I double checked.  

see TSB's on dead batteries

there are 3 right now.

Needing a Trikle charger is BS from dealer.  Good luck, let us know how it gets fixed

#23-NA-095: Lane Keep Assist Unavailable / Adaptive Cruise Control Inop / Service Driver Assist Systems / Amber Front Collision Icon On / Dead Battery / No Crank / Front View Camera / Auto Start Stop Inop / Unable to Complete Camera Learn Stops At 94% / DTC U3000 44 49 54 and/or 57 - (May 25, 2023)
Subject:  Lane Keep Assist Unavailable / Adaptive Cruise Control Inop / Service Driver Assist Systems / Amber Front Collision Icon On / Dead Battery / No Crank / Front View Camera / Auto Start Stop Inop / Unable To Complete Camera Learn Stops At 94% /DTC U3000 44 49 54 and/or 57

 

 #PIT5873G: After A Remote Start When The Start Button Is Pressed The Engine May Stall or Will Not Restart / Ignition May Appear To Be Stuck On / Engine May Stay Running With Ignition Off / Service Column Lock Message / DTC P0E32 and P0E37/ Dead Battery - (Feb 27, 2023)

Subject: 

After A Remote Start When The Start Button Is Pressed The Engine May Stall or Will Not Restart / Ignition May Appear To Be Stuck On / Engine May Stay Running With Ignition Off / Service Column Lock Message / DTC P0E32 and P0E37/ Dead Battery

 

 

 

#PIC5650K: Diagnostic Tip - Security Light on Intermittently / No Crank/No Start or Start Stall / Keyless Access Vehicles May Display No Remote/Fob Detected / Poor or No RKE Range / Service TPM - (May 15, 2023)
Subject:  Diagnostic Tip - Security Light on Intermittently / No Crank/No Start or Start Stall / Keyless Access Vehicles May Display No Remote/Fob Detected / Poor or No RKE Range / Service TPM

 

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Newer vehicles have a computer directed alternator. They don't constantly charge. The voltage will fluctuate and the alternator kicks on or off as needed. This is done for fuel mileage savings. Gotta love the EPA! The alternator NEVER fully charges the battery in any vehicle. Throw in all the security system stuff and whatever else uses battery power while sitting, and short trips are asking for a dead battery at some point. Randomly putting it on a charger to get a full charge is a good idea and prolongs battery life.

 

This comedian describes it perfectly!

 

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Posted (edited)
On 5/22/2023 at 11:29 PM, Doc Q said:

4CC9CCA5-28FF-4B17-A30C-BB2E07AAF5CF_1_102_o.thumb.jpeg.393d2e9129f2724ad309a04b3bf227a6.jpeg

 

 

 

That pic tells the story IMO, infrequently driving it and using more battery than the charging system is putting back in. Take it out and drive it 50 miles without shutting down.   I been going round and round with my cousin who has same problem with her Jeep that sits for weeks and then she drives to post office and store about 10 miles and parks it for another couple weeks.   Jeep is 3 yrs only and less than 3,000 miles and never driven more than 30 miles in any one day.  Then she parks it for the winter and goes to Florida for 6 months and can't understand why she has battery problems. 

Edited by elcamino
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37 minutes ago, elcamino said:

That pic tells the story IMO, infrequently driving it and using more battery than the charging system is putting back in. Take it out and drive it 50 miles without shutting down.   I been going round and round with my cousin who has same problem with her Jeep that sits for weeks and then she drives to post office and store about 10 miles and parks it for another couple weeks.   Jeep is 3 yrs only and less than 3,000 miles and never driven more than 30 miles in any one day.  Then she parks it for the winter and goes to Florida for 6 months and can't understand why she has battery problems. 

So what’s the minimum? Except when I drive my trip vehicle east our trips are short with the battery staying charged. My wife drives her Genesis 6 miles to town, starts it there. Drives fine miles to swim. Sometimes 3 miles to the store. Then five miles home. Her battery is 6 years old. My avalanche drives 5 miles, then starts again drives home. About 3 days a week. The other 3 the odyssey does the same. I think the problem is the truck. 

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