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Transmission Fluid Change


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I have a 2001 1500 2WD Suburban. I need to change my transmission fluid (based on what I've read on this forum, I DON'T want a fluid flush). The dealer near me sucks (and a rip off).

 

I'm having my car aligned at a local tire shop that also does mechanical repairs. Is it totally stupid to have a tire shop do a transmission fluid change?

 

Also, no matter who I have do the fluid change, is there anything I should tell them/keep in mind? Should I specify a specific type or brand of fluid?

 

Thanks!!

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What is the general impression of this tire shop from others around you? Changing AFT fluid isn't really hard. If the tire shop has a good reputation then it should be ok.

 

As for fluid, just stick with a brand named fluid like Penzoil, Mobil and make sure it meets the spec's that your owners manual states.

 

How many miles are on your Burb? General rule for me is to change out the ATF every 30k. Cheap insurance to keeping your transmission fresh.

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Your Sub should have a drain for the pan making it easier. Be warned that most have found that the drain plug was originally installed by a 400lb gorilla at the factory and it will problably round upon first removal. The head is a soft metal and it is torqued WAAAAY TOO TIGHT. I know 3 people directly that this happened to (including me) and have heard of at least 50 others through various forums that had to distroy it to get it out the first time. Do yourself a favor and buy a replacement bolt before you get it done. Never had a problem after the first time. Of course, I don't overtighten it either.

 

Having said that, if you know the shop, I would not hesitate to have them do it. Just double check the fluid level...remember fluid should be hot, trans in Park with engine idling with truck parked on level ground.

 

Regarding frequency of changes, since it is so easy now, I drain and fill the trans every other oil change (10000mi) and replace the filter every 50K. This way it keeps the fluid pretty fresh. Costs me about $6 extra when I change my oil but it's cheap insurance.

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whats the part # for the bolt?  What's the trick to get it out??  :nopity:

 

 

 

 

Alex, I don't know the part # for the bolt but you should be able to pick it up at your local dealership for <$10. As far as removal, I don't know if there is an exact trick to do this, but there are several ideas that have been used to accomplish this. You will definately need a high quality 15mm 6-point socket with a large breaker bar to try. I used a small hydraulic jack to apply a very small amount of pressure below the socket, mainly to prevent it from slipping down off of the bolt as I applied pressure to break the bolt loose. I stress again, if you try this, a very small amount of pressure, to avoid bending your pan. You can do a search on "transmission" or "transmission plug" to find a good thread on this. Also look in the "tech" section of this website, there is a good proceedure on transmission fluid change that also explains ideas of using "bolt extractors" and " "easy outs". If you do this you can drain the transmission pan every couple of oil changes for the little bit of money it would cost. Lets us know how it turns out. MMM

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whats the part # for the bolt?  What's the trick to get it out??  :nopity:

 

 

 

 

Dealer should have in stock.

 

After wrecking my bolt....started with socket and immediately rounded, vice grips..nope, heat, nope, cold, nope. After about an hour of trying to get it off, I finally cut a groove across the head with a cut-off wheel and used a chisel to strike perpendicular to the slot on the edge to get it to spin. After 2mm of movement, it almost fell off. Was a ROYAL PITA!

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whats the part # for the bolt?   What's the trick to get it out??  :nopity:

 

 

 

 

Alex, I don't know the part # for the bolt but you should be able to pick it up at your local dealership for <$10. As far as removal, I don't know if there is an exact trick to do this, but there are several ideas that have been used to accomplish this. You will definately need a high quality 15mm 6-point socket with a large breaker bar to try. I used a small hydraulic jack to apply a very small amount of pressure below the socket, mainly to prevent it from slipping down off of the bolt as I applied pressure to break the bolt loose. I stress again, if you try this, a very small amount of pressure, to avoid bending your pan. You can do a search on "transmission" or "transmission plug" to find a good thread on this. Also look in the "tech" section of this website, there is a good proceedure on transmission fluid change that also explains ideas of using "bolt extractors" and " "easy outs". If you do this you can drain the transmission pan every couple of oil changes for the little bit of money it would cost. Lets us know how it turns out. MMM

 

 

 

 

 

I used this exact method without the jack but I would recommend slight pressure with the jack. It will help keep the socket on. You will need both hands to pull. I went into it with the idea if the 6 point socket won't get it I will just use an extractor and buy a new plug. Mine did come loose but I truly thought I would round it off with the 2-3 foot breaker bar on it.

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I've read some threads on this forum saying that the flushing process actually increased the chances of transmission failure. I think it's because the flushing stirs up all sorts of metal bits/shavings that are best left undisturbed.

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I had mine flushed, I questioned the shop and the machine they used maintained the transmissions flow and flow pressure, so I didn't feel there was a risk to stirring up any crap that doesn't get stirred up by the transmission it self, and yes I destroyed my bolt, it's still in there along with the filter I want to change... :chevrolet:

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