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Hole in my Transfer Case

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Is it possible to remove the rear half of the transfercase to do the fix? Has anyone tried this?

Edited by searay220

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Is it possible to remove the rear half of the transfercase to do the fix? Has anyone tried this?

this might help you

Remove/Replace/Rebuild GM 246 transfer case, 2000 Chev Suburban

 

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Did it look similar to this? Mine did this a little over a year ago and was about the diameter of a piece of pencil lead. I thought maybe there was an air pocket in the casting, and it finally just popped. I put some JB weld on there and it has been working fine. No leaks or unusual noises.

 

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I recently repaired one like this using the jb method like others, and again it was in that exact spot, but on a 2002 Tahoe. (1500) I drained the t-case, cleaned the hole with brake clean and pressurized air, and applied the jb. seems to be holding thus far. If this is a common problem gm should address it somehow.

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I just did the fix for the transfercase last week. Now I'm looking at the my exhaust manifold bolts a couple of them have rotted off. Both of these issues are major screw ups from GM and should be addressed. They won't even acknowledge the problems but will be happy to tell you how much it will cost to repair them.

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My JB weld patch is still holding. 159,000 miles on my truck now. Runs like it always has.

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Mine was a pin sized hole.. thought it would be good for a day. Sadly I was wrong. Drove not even a mile and I felt a bang under the truck. It almost felt like I went into 4 low while driving. I take a look and now I have a massive hole. Trucks in the shop now. It will cost around 1000.

20180330_175446.jpg

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Add me to this not-so-exclusive club. Before I bought this truck I even looked for this particular problem while on the dealer lot. But I looked too high on the transfer case and missed it. I knew it was bad news when I was changing the differential fluids, transmission fluid and transfer case fluid last night. When I took the fill bolt off, it was dry. And I'm not even sure more than one or two ounces came out when I took the drain bolt off.

 

I've only had it for about a thousand miles but I'm going to assume that the transfer case is pretty much trashed and not tried any attempt at J-B Weld or even an overhaul. I think I'll just replace it. I've done that before on a buddy's truck. Too bad that buddy has written me off for something totally unrelated or I would call him to come help me.

 

Now I just got to figure out which transfer case to buy and from whom. I know I have the np263 and probably the NP263XHD, more specifically.

 

Larry

 

Edited by brainpause

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I would at least crack it open and look inside.  It's way cheaper to replace some of the bits inside than get a whole other transfer case (ie, over $1k).

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5 hours ago, davester said:

I would at least crack it open and look inside.  It's way cheaper to replace some of the bits inside than get a whole other transfer case (ie, over $1k).

True enough, but it is more of a work area thing. I'll basically be doing it in a gravel parking lot. I'm still considering your suggestion, though.

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It's doable, but more difficult.

 

First, minimize the damage being done if you have to drive it.  Really clean the outside of the transfer case and plug the hole with JB Weld.  Then refill the TC and check the level regularly (like, daily) and that the hole is still plugged.

 

Second, it's a 2-person job, with a transmission jack, to get it out and back in).  You've got to twist & rotate it to get it out around the crossmember for the torsion bars.  And you need another jack (bottle jack w short 2x4 on it/under it) to support the transmission, as you also have to remove the crossmember supporting the rear of the transmission.

 

Third, locate a transmission parts shop, and ask about what parts they have in stock for your transmission and when they are open.  They will likely be cheaper and actually have stock of most parts (or get the parts quickly) than regular auto parts places.  Then you can plan when you do it, so you can take it out, take it apart, see what looks bad (or take the parts to the shop and they will tell you), so you can get the parts right away and slam it back together to minimize your downtime.  And don't forget the pressed-metal pump rub plate...  Or you can order over the internet if you can wait for the parts.

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On 1/26/2006 at 11:25 AM, TLS said:

 

If you have a 2500HD, which I believe I saw in your signature, Auto-Trak II fluid is not what is recommended. ATII is for the LD trucks with Auto-Track transfercases.

According to what I understand and going by the owners manual. Autotrac II is correct if you have the push button 4WD controls. I have a 2500 HD and that is correct for my truck.

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I'm also pretty sure that you just use 'regular' atf fluid in the transfer case, the same as a manual transfer case.  Auto-Trak II fluid is for the AWD/always on transfer case, which I don't believe is available on the 2500hd/3500 trucks.

 

It's probably fine to run with the Auto-Trak II fluid, it's just not what GM recommends and much more expensive than regular ATF.

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After bringing my 02 2500 HD to the shop to have them discover where the leak is coming from on my driveway, they too noticed the pin hole and informed me that the transfer case liquid was low.  So I came here to research and found this thread.  Kind of good to know that it is somewhat of a common problem.  Helps me explain it to the wife $$$.

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On 1/10/2019 at 4:46 PM, RoarinRow said:

After bringing my 02 2500 HD to the shop to have them discover where the leak is coming from on my driveway, they too noticed the pin hole and informed me that the transfer case liquid was low.  So I came here to research and found this thread.  Kind of good to know that it is somewhat of a common problem.  Helps me explain it to the wife $$$.

Well I got her back today a few $$$ lighter.  I did see the pin hole as everyone has described.  I am very lucky that I got where I was going so so little fluid in the transfer case.  The shop also replaced the pinion seal, which was also leaking.

 

Next to clean up the underbelly so that future leaks, if any, will be easier to spot.

 

Done.

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