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alvocado

Broken Parking Brake Retaining Clip Bolt

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While attempting to remove my parking brake shoe on my '02 Yukon, the bolt head on the shoe retaining clip broke clean off, leaving the bolt shaft in the threads. There isn't enough material remaining to get needle nose pliers on it and I'm afraid my only option is to pull the rear axle so I can get access to the front of the bolt with an Easy Out extractor. The axle flange is in the way. I considered removing one of the flange studs but i don't think there is enough clearance behind the flange to pull the stud complete out and open up a hole. Does anyone have any other ideas before I resort to pulling the axle? I've temporarily removed the shoe but I plan to tackle this after the holiday to get the parking brake fully functioning again.

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While attempting to remove my parking brake shoe on my '02 Yukon, the bolt head on the shoe retaining clip broke clean off, leaving the bolt shaft in the threads. There isn't enough material remaining to get needle nose pliers on it and I'm afraid my only option is to pull the rear axle so I can get access to the front of the bolt with an Easy Out extractor. The axle flange is in the way. I considered removing one of the flange studs but i don't think there is enough clearance behind the flange to pull the stud complete out and open up a hole. Does anyone have any other ideas before I resort to pulling the axle? I've temporarily removed the shoe but I plan to tackle this after the holiday to get the parking brake fully functioning again.

Does that unbolt? I can't tell be the pics if it is held in place by those bolts in the pic. (It looks like a removeable caliper bracket in the pic but I could be way off)

 

If no... it's not that hard to pull the axle. Need to pop the diff cover off and remove the retainer clip. I'd probably do that and drill and tap the broken bolt... if that casting is not removeable. Good time to do that rear axle fluid change you've been wanting to do huh?

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The exact same thing happened to me. I have fixed the parking brakes on that POS drum in hat design once. I had to replace the rear rotors. Within a year the parking brake pads wore back down to metal due to rubbing. The last time I replaced the rear pads, I snapped that same bolt off on the drivers side. I just said screw it and turned the rear rotors without fixing the parking brake.

 

That is a piss poor design of a parking brake system and I refuse to replace the rear rotors every year. Luckily, I have a good relationship with a local garage that will inspect it without the parking brake working.

Edited by jtupper

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Pulling the axle is the only way to get at it with an easy-out. It is not too bad once you understand how to pull the axle. Poor design IMO.

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Thanks for the advice, guys. I'm really frustrated since I just pulled the axles last week while changing the diff fluid and replacing the brake dust shields and axle seals. I can pull them in probably 20 mins now but it's irritating to go through the effort again and waste the new diff fluid. These parking brake shoes have been a real pain.

 

For those of you that have drilled out bolts before, any advice on how to approach this? I assume I find a bit that's a little smaller in diameter than the bolt shaft and use a tap to simply clean out the remaining material, leaving the thread diameter the same. I know the bolt head was 5/16 with 24 pitch but I'll have to figure out the shaft diameter and make sure I have a proper steel drill bolt on hand.

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HOLD ON !!!!!!!!!

 

Been here...done this.

 

Wanna know the BEST trick for doing this repair????????

 

Simple. Just bang out one wheel stud. Then you have ALL the ACCESS in the world !!! Don't have to tear down any rear axle.

 

Drill it out, chase your own threads in, and install a bolt you have laying around. Pop your stud back in ..and that's it

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HOLD ON !!!!!!!!!

 

Been here...done this.

 

Wanna know the BEST trick for doing this repair????????

 

Simple. Just bang out one wheel stud. Then you have ALL the ACCESS in the world !!! Don't have to tear down any rear axle.

 

Drill it out, chase your own threads in, and install a bolt you have laying around. Pop your stud back in ..and that's it

Absolutely excellent idea. :rolleyes:

 

...as long as there is room to get the stud out. Make sure to install a new one when done.

Edited by Zembonez

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I considered removing a wheel stud but it looked like I would be just a bit short with the clearance behind the flange to pull the stud completely out. If you know there is clearance, I'll give it a try. It would certainly be a lot fast than pulling axle.

 

Here's the stupid question: when you say "bang the stud out," aren't they threaded into the flange? I've never removed studs from a solid axle so I haven't really looked at how they attach. With the way most of the parts rust on these trucks, I wouldn't be surprised if it's simply frozen to the flange with corrosion.

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I considered removing a wheel stud but it looked like I would be just a bit short with the clearance behind the flange to pull the stud completely out. If you know there is clearance, I'll give it a try. It would certainly be a lot fast than pulling axle.

 

Here's the stupid question: when you say "bang the stud out," aren't they threaded into the flange? I've never removed studs from a solid axle so I haven't really looked at how they attach. With the way most of the parts rust on these trucks, I wouldn't be surprised if it's simply frozen to the flange with corrosion.

 

 

Nope. It will pop out just like butter with 2 or 3 hits from a hammer...

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I considered removing a wheel stud but it looked like I would be just a bit short with the clearance behind the flange to pull the stud completely out. If you know there is clearance, I'll give it a try. It would certainly be a lot fast than pulling axle.

 

Here's the stupid question: when you say "bang the stud out," aren't they threaded into the flange? I've never removed studs from a solid axle so I haven't really looked at how they attach. With the way most of the parts rust on these trucks, I wouldn't be surprised if it's simply frozen to the flange with corrosion.

 

 

Nope. It will pop out just like butter with 2 or 3 hits from a hammer...

 

 

Excellent. This will be much easier than pulling the axle. To install the new wheel stud, do I simply press it into the flange with a c-clamp?

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Excellent. This will be much easier than pulling the axle. To install the new wheel stud, do I simply press it into the flange with a c-clamp?

 

 

a C-clamp may not give you enough oomph to get it drawn in. Hopefully you have an air impact wrench. Put a few big washers over the stud then use a spare lug nut and draw it up with the impact wrench. Remove the nut and washers and you're good to go

 

Also, concerning if there is enough space to pull the stud out the back of the hub or not, usually the backing plate/flange area is shaped with an area where you can rotate the axle hub around to where the stud will line up to that area and allow you clearance

Edited by Starrman

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While attempting to remove my parking brake shoe on my '02 Yukon, the bolt head on the shoe retaining clip broke clean off, leaving the bolt shaft in the threads. There isn't enough material remaining to get needle nose pliers on it and I'm afraid my only option is to pull the rear axle so I can get access to the front of the bolt with an Easy Out extractor. The axle flange is in the way. I considered removing one of the flange studs but i don't think there is enough clearance behind the flange to pull the stud complete out and open up a hole. Does anyone have any other ideas before I resort to pulling the axle? I've temporarily removed the shoe but I plan to tackle this after the holiday to get the parking brake fully functioning again.

 

I too replaced my parking brake shoes today. Its was fairly straight forward process untill the said bolt broke off on one of the wheels. The new shoes come with a new design clip and bolt, but are much larger and they don't fit. The part# is 171-0892. I will check around town to see how much local mechanics will charge to remove the bolt.

Edited by qristofer

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I had this problem with one a few years ago...... IDK what size bolt it was, but I do remember I got in my box of left handed drill bits,,,,, I pulled the axle out, didn't think about the stud. And IDK if it lines up.....

 

Drilled a small pilot whole with a left handed bit stepped up one size in the left handed bits I had, spun right out and stuck to the drill bit.

 

YES THEY MAKE LEFT HANDED drill bits, Don't ask or joke about them. I find them quite helpful when removing broke off bolts also..... And I may have heated the area slightly, so times I do some times I don't.

 

But if you use a extractor or ease out, make sure you read the package and get the right size drill bit for the extractor/ease out. And DRILL STRAIGHT, if you don't you will easily drill the threads out.

 

Jbo

 

Also, note pulling studs in with the washer method with an impact can some times strip the stud or lug, be prepared. Get 2 each....... I don't use the impact.... I usually get my 1 inch drive ratchet out and use it to just slowly pull them in by hand instead of the anvil in the impact beating on the nut..... And I have seen before in cataloging a press that will push them in from the head side of the stud.

Edited by USMdude

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I tried to drill the screw out, but I drilled the whole thing off center. Now, it seems I have to replace the entire backing plate.The part is not that expensive. I see quite a few going for $40 new (rockautoparts) and lucky enough they have the parking brake kit that comes with the exact screw, so the only challenge for me now is pulling the axle. It appears a diff fluid change will be part of the job.

 

Watching youtube videos makes the job look easy, but I understand that the c-clip in the diff has to be installed correctly. hopefully its not that hard to do.

 

PS. Removing the stud is a possibility. hammer it out, put trans in neutral and rotate the hub until it aligns. Most users commented about getting a new stud, but I used the same one since it did not have any damages. I put a nut on the stud before hammering it.

Edited by qristofer

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This is an old thread but I just had the same thing happen on my '01 Sierra 1500. Who ever designed the rear brakes on this trucks should be very VERY embarrassed.

 

I removed a stud (thanks for that tip), drilled out the hole and used a self tapper with a gob of never-seize.

 

Getting the drum/disk back on and off and on and off to do the stupidest brake adjustment ever thought of is another story. I give up for today and will tackle it again maybe tomorrow.

Edited by 2001SierraGMC

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