Ball Joints Went Bad W/ Leveling Kit

Matt_ · June 12, 2009

Matt,

I have a Techie question for you if you don't mind:

It's time to get these terrible Goodyear LS/2's off my truck. The local off-road shop is recommending the Readylift 2.25" kit and just under a 33" tire (305/65/17 Procomp XAT) on a Procomp 6001 17x8 wheels with 4.5 backspace. I'm thinking of changing the Procomp tires to Nitto, but other than that really like the look.

I called Readylift and they are not aware of any balljoint failured with this kit, except a few Utah guys that were doing some extreme rock crawling (not sure how they got a GMT900 with 2" of lift into extreme crawling, but that's the story). The only change he recommended was to add the 1" rear block because I do occasionally tow a boat.

Do you think this setup would be safe based on the comments posted above? Don't want to cause myself more trouble here, but would like to use the truck in the dirt a bit. Real life forces me to drive mostly freeway, work and commuting to Lake Havasu and back for fun with the kids, but would like it to look and ride like a truck - rather than a street racer .

Thanks,

Steve

Hey Steve.... There really isn't an issue (that i've heard of) with catastrophic balljoint failures, just the tendancy to wear sooner. There are some people who put on 2+" kits and go a lifetime without their balljoints wearing... or at least claim to (maybe they just never check?).

My personal opinion would be to look at a 1.5-2" max leveling kit, and if you want more height look into a 1.5 or 3" body lift. Obviously the best setup in terms of suspension component longevity would be to just do a body lift, but i understand that some people would prefer not to. (and there really aren't any 'good' 3-4 inch suspension systems for a good price, and most 4" kits are really 6"...)

So to answer your question... would you be safe? Probably. Would your ball joints wear sooner? Likely. How much sooner? No one knows

Just a quick note on the setup you've posted... make sure those wheels are only 8" wide and not 8.5, 9 or wider. With 4.5" backspace, anything over 8" wide is probably going to rub a lot with only a leveling kit & 33's.

And also keep in mind... whether you buy the Readylift or any other leveling kit, body lift, etc does not affect how much bread i can put on my table. I'm here to give the best information i can, and for no reason other than to help. So be mindful that when you call Readylift, or go to a shop... they're trying to sell you something because thats how they make money.

asilverblazer · June 12, 2009

for the good of the forum - what kind of symptoms were you getting ?

Hitting very light bumps in the road, I got a knocking/pounding noise on the left front end. Also going around tight bends or in parking lots, I got a small thump/pound noise in the left front end. Anything like speed bumps in a parking lot or big humps in a road, would make it pound really hard

My experience with the leveling kit is as soon as it was put on I started noticing the light pop while making sharp low speed turns. Not sure if it is the turning/pivoting of the ball joints or actual weight of the truck shifting (perhaps more pressure on a body mount) causing the noise. So I'm not so certain the pop noise is indicating a ball joint failure.

Matt_ · June 12, 2009

for the good of the forum - what kind of symptoms were you getting ?

Hitting very light bumps in the road, I got a knocking/pounding noise on the left front end. Also going around tight bends or in parking lots, I got a small thump/pound noise in the left front end. Anything like speed bumps in a parking lot or big humps in a road, would make it pound really hard

My experience with the leveling kit is as soon as it was put on I started noticing the light pop while making sharp low speed turns. Not sure if it is the turning/pivoting of the ball joints or actual weight of the truck shifting (perhaps more pressure on a body mount) causing the noise. So I'm not so certain the pop noise is indicating a ball joint failure.

True, that a noise alone is not an accurate diagnosis of balljoint failure.... but from his first post, it sounds like a shop found the balljoint issue (see below) when he brought it in because of the noise. And you even state that you're not sure if the popping sound is your balljoints or not. Well, if it is your balljoints, don't you think that may not be good for them?

... They replaced that and the noise didn't go away. Well upon taking it this morning for inspection, they found both left and right ball joints were SHOT. They said they couldn't beleive I was still driving it, the left side is barely intact.

Also, i dont know about you guys, but i hate ANY creak/pop/clunk sound. To me, that means something is wrong and needs to be fixed/corrected/etc. If i put a leveling kit on and it was making a pop sound... personally i'd find out what it was; if not for piece of mind, for safety

asilverblazer · June 12, 2009

Also, i dont know about you guys, but i hate ANY creak/pop/clunk sound. To me, that means something is wrong and needs to be fixed/corrected/etc. If i put a leveling kit on and it was making a pop sound... personally i'd find out what it was; if not for piece of mind, for safety

Want to come look at mine? I've looked and not seen anything absurdedly wrong, so I'm good with it. Its not like its as bad as the steering shaft clunk.

Matt_ · June 12, 2009

If you were closer it'd take a good look at it for ya.

And that steering clunk drove me NUUUUTS. To the point where i "greased" it at just about every oil change so the clunking would never come back

dansk · June 12, 2009

For those more knowledgable than I, would the Bilstein 5100 replacement strut with the adjustable spring perch put the same extra strain on the ball joints as a spacer like the Rough Country or is it more like putting in a body lift ? By the way, I did a body lift for a neighbor once and it was a LOT of work.

Matt_ · June 12, 2009

Any increase in ride height by the way of suspension that does not lower the control arms to correct the angles will put stress on the balljoints. Whether its an upper strut spacer, lower strut spacer, or longer strut (like the bilstein)

With that said... I have read great reviews on the bilstein struts. Supposedly their valving is spot on and the ride is great- that's just hearsay though. A few guys on this site that have them will chime in im sure.

Edit: and yea, body lifts aren't "hard" to do... they just take some time. I generally like to start one on a saturday morning, take my time and finish it Sunday morning.

Blown03 · June 17, 2009

I got my truck back last night finally. and wow, never thought I'd miss it that much, I was itchin to get out this cobalt rent-a-car. Gotta say, truck feels like a million bucks. No more clunks or noises. They replaced the entire a-arms on both sides i believe? I'll grab the paperwork later and look exactly. Also said somin about new cv boots? They gave her a fresh alignment too. Now the decision whether or not to remove the leveling kit... hmmmm

crepitus · June 17, 2009

I got my truck back last night finally. and wow, never thought I'd miss it that much, I was itchin to get out this cobalt rent-a-car. Gotta say, truck feels like a million bucks. No more clunks or noises. They replaced the entire a-arms on both sides i believe? I'll grab the paperwork later and look exactly. Also said somin about new cv boots? They gave her a fresh alignment too. Now the decision whether or not to remove the leveling kit... hmmmm

was it warrantied?

Blown03 · June 17, 2009

Yes sure was. Paperwork just says control arms were replaced and alignment was done. He's a pic from my cell phone, sorry it's dirty already, I drove through a damn gravel muddy parking lot this morming

crazytru02 · June 18, 2009

I a tidbit of information if you decide to replace the ball joint with one from Rockauto.com. I damaged the boot on my ball joint while installing my lift. Did a stupid thing, from which a lesson was learned. Any ways i called and gave all my vehicle info for a 2007 NBS Sierra Crew cab 4x4 and Moog was out of stock but Mevotech was available. I received the ball joint only to find that it would not fit. Long story short they said they would refund shipping and the part and to just keep the part bc they may not have me send it back. I was told that if after 2 weeks they didnt ask for it back then its mine, free of charge. Not sure how it ranks up against Moog but it was greasable.

Another long story short, I had a dealer get me one for $42 verus the $28 for the aftermarket. if any of you do call Rockauto be sure to specify it is a 4wd..bc that was the issue for me even after I told the rep that in the initial conversation.

jwoodall · June 26, 2009

I had usual one cup limit of Montana Huckleberry Blend, stuff is good. Thanks for clarifying the differences. I'll most likely leave mine stock through the factory BridgeStones life expectancy and then go with one of the 1.5" or 2" kits to allow for a slightly larger tire choice.

I'm with you on that one. I'll wait 2 or 3 years till I need new tires then change it up. Can't see messing with a brand new $35k truck.

mdog2010 · June 26, 2009

I'm new to this deal so bear with me.

I have a 2005 Chevy Tahoe with the stock wheels and tires. I am a the point where I need new tires b/c I have 49,000 miles on the stock goodyears. I have saved up money to buy rims - American Racing ATX Clash Gloss Black - and I want a little bigger tire than stock. I am looking at the Truxxx 1.25" spacers in the rear and a level in the front and setting it to 1.5" just so I can clear 305/45/22 Toyo Open Country ATs. The only true fear I have is that my front suspension will break in some major way and then I'm screwed. I'd also appreciate any different suggestions on tires and levels. I already bought the rims. I guess my real question is how will my suspension be effeced by the level in the front?

Matt_ · June 26, 2009

Hey max, welcome to the site.

Read posts 1 through 40 of this thread for a detailed discussion and the answer to your question

In short, as long as you only bring the front up 1.5" you'll be fine. Its when you get to 2" and higher that people start to notice issues.

Spurshot · June 27, 2009

The other consideration many forget about is the wider wheels and more outboard offset of wheels and spacers affect the loads on the suspension. A wheel sticking out an additional couple inches imparts that much more leverage on the springs, balljoints, bushings, etc..