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2008 Silverado Power Door Lock Actuator Failed


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wow in my 07 with 160,000 kms i have never had to replace one yet..

 

I love my GM

 

It seemed for the most part to be a supplier issue in 2008, hence no issues in your 2007

 

 

Ryan

 

 

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Ok. Here is a $5 fix for your 2008 and up crap china made door locks that half work or just quit working.

I am assuming you have enough mechanical ability to remove the door panel, but if not, there are instructions on this site on doing that. This mod also should work on Tahoes and Burbs, but I can not say 100% it will.

 

First, you will need one of these. Yes, it is a cheap china made lock actuator, but hey, so is the one GM put in your vehicle.

 

http://www.amazon.co..._auto_ai_ps_t_2

 

Now. What you are going to do is mount the new actuator BEHIND the door panel in the position shown.

 

door1.jpg

 

This is a little closer shot. Be sure that the actuator clears the hole in the panel so the panel cover lock can snap in. If you look, the hole is midway between the motor on the actuator and the upper mounting hole. Remember, it goes BEHIND that panel, I am just showing it outside the panel for reference.

 

door2.jpg

 

Here is a shot of the actuator installed inside the panel.

 

door3.jpg

 

Just mark the 2 mounting hole locations, and drill the holes. The actuator should be vertical to the door. Next, the actuator comes with a rod and a clamp. Remove the lower rubber plug shown and reach up and slip the clamp on the lock rod. Then slip the new actuator rod into the clamp. (If you need to slightly bend the rod to make it parrallel with the lock rod, that is fine) Adding a drop of blue loctite on the adjusting screws is a good idea.

 

door4.jpg

 

At this point, I used an external 12 v source to actuate the lock and adjust it properly. You can do that or wait till you have it wired in the truck harness.

The original lock has a connector the has some small wires, but 2 thicker wires. These 2 wires are the actuator power. On mine, they were green and yellow. (See photo-sorry about the out of focus)

 

door5.jpg

 

The actuator just works 2 ways, so if it works backwards, just swap these 2 wires. I also left enough wire on the original connector to resplice if GM ever decides to fix these crap locks.

I also drilled a small hole in the panel and used a zip tie to hold the new wiring away from the window as it slides down.

 

Here is the installed actuator working. It sounds loud, but after the panel was replaced, it was no louder than any of the other locks. It takes a few seconds for tthe video to load.

 

http://www.eworldz.com/truck/vid1.mp4

 

So GM, take you $100 locks and shove 'em.....

 

C

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado Quad cab that has this same issue. read drivers side died 6 months ago and now the other read door has died... cant believe this is not a recall.

 

I've sent a private message to Tricia from GM and hope to have some assistance.

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My 2008 Sierra is currently in the shop having 3 of the 4 locks replaced.

My brother in law has replaced 2 of the 4 in his 2008 Tahoe.

A friend has replaced 3 of the 4 in his 2008 Tahoe.

With a greater than 50% failure rate just among the three of us, this is ridiculous.

I had my 95 Sierra for 13 years and 160,000 miles without a single issue. (Well I did replace the alternator and water pump which is expected)

Between my Sliding Rear Window and these locks, I have now had four.

 

I reported mine as failing intermittently while I was under warranty but was informed that made no difference. Sure glad I purchased an extended warranty (unbeknownst to me) and it has a zero deductible.

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Compulynx

Hi

I'm new to your forum

Looks like a lot of people with the same problem I've got

I like your creativity

I've got a 08 yukon XL Denali with both driver side locks not working

I've got the rear door acuator out of the car (did that before I saw your post)

My plug for the lock acuator has 5 wires

With a tester I was able to find the 2 wire that seem to lock and unlock the acuator are these the two wires I would splice into for the new acuator

How do I ground the new acuator

I read some of the reviews and it looks like it doesn't come with any instructions or diagrams

Look forward to hearing back from you

Thanks Jeff

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The driver's side actuator on my '08 Ext cab Silverado failed about 6 months after I bought it new in July of '08 so it was a warranty replacement. When I went back to the dealer to see if they would give mea a break on the replacement, they sad it was "too far out of warranty" (1 year and 450 miles over). They quoted $125 for the actuator and 2 hours ($109/hr) labor So I just had my shop replace the passenger side actuator for $135 plus sales tax. Got the actuator for $90 and .6 hour labor.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Compulynx

Hi

I'm new to your forum

Looks like a lot of people with the same problem I've got

I like your creativity

I've got a 08 yukon XL Denali with both driver side locks not working

I've got the rear door acuator out of the car (did that before I saw your post)

My plug for the lock acuator has 5 wires

With a tester I was able to find the 2 wire that seem to lock and unlock the acuator are these the two wires I would splice into for the new acuator

How do I ground the new acuator

I read some of the reviews and it looks like it doesn't come with any instructions or diagrams

Look forward to hearing back from you

Thanks Jeff

 

 

It is a simple reversal of polarity. There is no ground needed. To lock you have +12 at one lead and ground at the other. To Unlock, the polarity simply is reversed!

 

C

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  • 2 weeks later...

My driver side acuator just went out on my 2008. I like your method compulynx.

I may be giving your method a shot on my truck.

You said there are more than two wires going to the stock actuator.

If this is the case then what is the fuction of the smaller gauge wires that do not power the acuator?

Did you keep the smaller wires hooked up to the old actuator to complete the cirucit?

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  • 2 months later...

So I have the same problem. Door won't unlock can't open the door. Drivers side no less..... How can you get the door open on these trucks, (my case 2009 Silverado 2500HD LT) to be able to replace these mechanisms? I have the door panel partially pulled back but can't figure out how to force the door to unlock in order to open it.

 

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!! Vehicle is out of warranty so I don't really want to go through the dealer if I don't have to.

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Contacted the GM support folks and promptly received a call back on Christmas Eve. They were polite, and stated that I had to take the vehicle to a dealership and pay the diagnostic fee to have them determine the problem. She did state that even if it is out of warranty, that if it's a defective part, that GM would help make the situation right, including a goodwill repair. The diagnostic, from what I have read, could end up being as much and more than likely MORE than the parts as they are going to have to open the door in order to get to the part and that's the thing I am having trouble with to begin with.......

 

I explained to the CSR on the phone that I wasn't sure that was a gamble I was willing to take at this point and that I believe I will be taking the repair on myself. So after I get home from work today, I will be removing the seats in my truck in order to get the panel pulled back far enough to try and release the door myself.

 

If people are interested, I can post what I have done, but if there are no requests for it, I won't post.

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I am having a similar problem to you guys but its not my lock that stopped working it is my windows. Both of my passengers side windows for the longest time worked intermittanly from the drivers side panel but worked perfectly normal from their perspective panels. Now they finally crapped the bed all together on the drivers side nut work just fine on their panels.........I cant even roll my windows down without having to lean over and use their panels!!

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GMC_2008 : Yes, I am saying that the door will not unlock at all. Key, button, power, nothing. i can not get my door to open up at all.

 

I just put it in the garage and I am going to pull the seats out of it and see if I can get my hand in the door far enough to pop the latch. I have had a busy holiday season so I have let this problem last way too long. I am going to see if I can pop it today.

 

Dealer offered to pop the door for $400.00 YEAH RIGHT.... only as a last resort.....

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