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2008 Silverado Power Door Lock Actuator Failed


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For what it's worth, I had three of the actuators replaced on my 2008 Tahoe (that I just traded in on my new truck). The Tahoe had 25k on it when I got rid of it. The service tech told me that there was a tech bulletin on the locks and that they were prone to failure that year because of a different part provider that they supposedly switched from. Never saw the tech bulletin, but the 'hoe was under warranty so I didn't have to pay a dime.

 

Hopefully, it doesn't happen to my new truck!

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Looks like the right and left side are identical parts. The dealer gave me the same part numbers for both sides.
I Went to a local dealer in Cuyahoga, Falls Ohio and they gave me a part number for my 08 GMC Sierra Reg cab passenger door. The number they gave me was 25876383. They also gave me the 800 number for GM, That was no help at all. Truck is out of warranty. They told me the part was 129.00 but GMParts direct is around 68,
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I dont think the driver and passenger sides are swapable...meaning they should have separate P/Ns....

 

I think I remember during the installation that it was simple because you couldnt put it in "backwards" which would be necessary to work on both sides...

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Here are your part numbers you requested per the VIN number submitted.

 

25876382 front side door lock "with actuator" (drivers side)

25876383 front side door lock "with actuator" (passenger side)

25876397 rear side door latch (includes the actuator) "drivers side"

25876398 rear side door latch (includes the actuator) "passenger side"

 

This is the information I finally received from www.gmpartsdirect.com after days of waiting for them to respond to my email. Your VIN might require different locks, but I would think most of the trucks in the 07-09 range would be the same.

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As I remember I had my passenger side go out on my 08' Silverado - What a pain in the behind having to reach over to unlock. It worked sometimes before it completely went out. Got it replaced under warranty around 12K and lost a day without my truck.

The bad thing is I could of been ripped off thinking it was locked and my truck secure. I didnt discover it until the wifee opened the passenger door without I using the remote and of course the horn went off. Startled and confused as hell.

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Yep, just had door #3 (passenger front) fail on me about a week ago. I've got an 08 CC with about 22,830 on the clock. First door lock to go out was the passenger side rear door. That was about 8 months ago. Then the drivers side door went, took it in for the oil change service and they replaced it then. Well, i'm a hundred miles away from my next service, and guess what they'll be changing this time?! :fume:

 

I think i'm going to see if they can go ahead and replace the driver rear door while they're at it, because at this rate, they'll be doing it on my next service here in about 3100 miles. :cheers:

Edited by Cocheese
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My 2008 Chev Avalanche lost right rear door lock at 38k and just lost right front at 44k. Out of warranty. Dealer wanted $175 each to pop the door panels to start work and another $350 each to repalce the locks. OK, I am all for paying people a fair rate but jeez! I popped tha back panel off in about 20 minutes. I have done this before on other cars. I called the dealer back to get the part number and told him I was an OK wrench and could do this myself. He would not give me the part numbers to order from parts direct. ANy quick way of looking these numbers up???

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My 2008 Chev Avalanche lost right rear door lock at 38k and just lost right front at 44k. Out of warranty. Dealer wanted $175 each to pop the door panels to start work and another $350 each to repalce the locks. OK, I am all for paying people a fair rate but jeez! I popped tha back panel off in about 20 minutes. I have done this before on other cars. I called the dealer back to get the part number and told him I was an OK wrench and could do this myself. He would not give me the part numbers to order from parts direct. ANy quick way of looking these numbers up???

 

Yeah, call up the parts department instead of the service department. They'll probably ask for your VIN number and then tell them what parts you want.

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Thanks Matt.

 

I'll call them in the AM. Looking at these posts, this seems to be a common problem. It would be nice if GM would own up to these issues instead of letting dealers scalp customers for over $1,000 for two door locks. I wonder how many people have been laying out hard earned money for this. The service writer in Escondido, CA acted like this never happened before. Now I see it is practically an epidemic. They must be making a killing on fixing these. I saw some places online have the lock for $89 and $67! This is really an easy (but knuckle bruising) job. Even though I love my truck, I had to see some of the bad behavior from GM and the dealerships. Now I am having problems with my cruise control. Troubleshooting that might be a little more difficult.

 

My 2008 Chev Avalanche lost right rear door lock at 38k and just lost right front at 44k. Out of warranty. Dealer wanted $175 each to pop the door panels to start work and another $350 each to repalce the locks. OK, I am all for paying people a fair rate but jeez! I popped tha back panel off in about 20 minutes. I have done this before on other cars. I called the dealer back to get the part number and told him I was an OK wrench and could do this myself. He would not give me the part numbers to order from parts direct. ANy quick way of looking these numbers up???

 

Yeah, call up the parts department instead of the service department. They'll probably ask for your VIN number and then tell them what parts you want.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a GMC Sierra 2500HD and I am experiencing similar problems. My front drivers door lock went out last week. The electric lock/unlock feature wont work from inside or the fab. However mine was a little different. My locks were working fine, not sluggish and with no signs of wearing down ( I experienced this in my F250 and had to replace all actuators twice, and you could tell for months that they were slowly dying). My question is, has anyone experienced their actuators going out like this. Working fine and then dead out of the blue. If not is there anything I could do to test and see if there was another problem before buying an actuator and trying it out. I just want to make sure that it actually is the actuator and not some other part. I haven't pulled it all apart yet, so I guess I need to do that to make sure everything looks right. Taking it to the dealer is kind of out of the question as I'm 100 miles away from the closest dealership and would only be able to go on the weekend. Also, checked fuses that pertained to the locks and all were good. And advice you could give me would be a huge help! Thanks. Wilson

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