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Showing results for tags 'aftermarket amp'.
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Hey guys, first and foremost Merry Christmas and I hope everyone is having a great holiday, I however am in a bit of a bind. I wasn't happy with the bose sound system in my new Trail Boss so I went with JL 3.5” in the dash, and a 6x9 3 way coaxial and a 6.5 2 way coax in the rear. I originally bought the factory kicker sub upgrade for the bose to see if it would help and it did but it wasnt enough so I went with JL. Only problem is I ****ed up and my wife had a tech support package through Best Buy so my install was free and it certainly showed. Ive already undid what they did and it seems they tapped into the speaker wire cluster in the passenger door panel and tried to wire from the bose amp to the new JL 5 Channel amp and then tried to run my 6 channel LC7i output converter to the factory head unit from the same rear passenger door cluster. Sounded like shit, I had no control over my fades, my highs were ear shrieking, no sound when making phone calls and they attached the wrong wires etc. Long story short I memorized all the speaker wire colors in the truck both positive and negative fixed the cluster they ****ed up and have everything other than the speakers that are currently disconnected; connected. Ive also got the kicker sub upgrade to work with the 6” bose sub without the special harness after some splicing and tapping into the mono sub input coming from the bose amp (Blue/Grey and Green/Black thicker gauge wire). My problem Im running into is where I tap into the signal coming from my head unit in order to plug into my LOC. From there I can hook my amp up to my speakers and call it a ****ing day. Ive pulled my rear seats to have full access to the bose amp and Ive also pulled the door sills and some of the dash to be able to get to the dash speakers. Which brings me to my other problem. I don't want my 3.5” JL speakers to be wired to the bose sub for obvious reasons, so is it possible to wire them directly to the head unit since they're a lower RMS and, if so, then how? Basically where do I tap into the truck to install my six channel LOC and wire my dash speakers to my head unit. Currently I have the speaker wires in the rear passenger sill cluster snipped since thats where best buy had them snipped in order to bypass the amp. Additionally is bypassing the amp as simple as snipping the wires belonging to the speakers which the bose amp is supplying power to? I know there are harnesses but Ive already got the truck apart and I have my solder and weather tubes to properly splice my connections so I don't mind the work as long as Im able to get it done, Ive been without proper sound for 3 months Im not waiting on a harness since the holidays is the only time I have off. Il post pictures of the cluster **** shortly. Merry Christmas and happy holidays guys !
So after much searching it appears that nobody has yet to figure out how to add a 4-6 channel amp to their 2015+ (I have a 2015 2500 slt with bose and bucket seats)factory radio and bypass the bose amp. Or has somebody figured it out and I have just not been able to find it?? Thanks in advance
I replaced the Bose OEM radio deck (Delphi) with aftermarket D-Din deck (Pyle PLDNV695). I wired it all without all pricey harness adapters. Everything works great the way it is wired now but, I was not able to find the wiring schematic to wire the stock steering wheel audio controls to the at aftermarket DDin which has the hook ups for it and can also program it. Please help!! P.s.: I have already had extreme success with adding aftermarket amp and sub, wiring aftermarket D-Din radio (using the Bose stock speakers), and bypassing Bose amp with no harness adapters for under 30$. If anyone has any questions about any of those topics I'd be happy to help so you don't have go through all the research I had to do. I'll save you a hellish headache!
Just hooked up and installed some stereo equipment. Built a custom box w/amp space, sealed w/x2 10" flat hertz subs, hertz 1D amp, hertz remote bass knob. Have bad feedback noise with the engine running.. Bit of install info-- -this amp does 700w rms @2ohms, 10% THD, but i'm going for sound quality. -so, i set the gain for 550w rms @2ohms for less than 1% THD. -if anyone is unclear about gains, the equation for measured voltage off the speaker out terminals on the amp is V=squareroot of [power x resistance] -so in my case 550x2=1110. Square root of 1100 is =33.17VAC -turn off all EQs on radio/source, play 50hz sine wave and adjust gain to calculated voltage.. -spliced the stock blue(+) and grey(-) sub leads into the high level speaker inputs on the amp. Amp has auto on feature so i didn't bother with the remote wire. These subs sound very nice after tuning. If the truck is off, I can listen @3/4 volume distortion free. Brief listening, but quite impressed. How i have missed bass! So disappointed when I went to show the wife my hours worth of work when i start the truck up and hear immediate feedback/noise.. Options I'm looking at now are either, installing a LOC and bypassing the auto-on/high level inputs.. or disconnecting the ANC mics? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.