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Showing most liked content since 06/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Had about 45 minutes and with this 100°+ heat, that what 45 minutes too much! Had to take my illuminated handles off to get some switchbacks retrofitted in them. Figured this would be a perfect time to add some chrome lock knobs while I had the panels off. I can never just do one thing. Lol. Thanks [email protected] for the idea! Lock knob rods are for an Escalade, so I just swapped the knobs since the rods are different. The little details I tell ya. Lol. I like the touches of chrome on the inside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. 8 points
    9 hour detail session on the truck. Interior vacuumed, leather conditioned, floor liners cleaned, engine bay detailed, foam bath, hand dry, full clay bar, and extreme depth carnauba wax + x seal, windows cleaned and topped off with extreme wheel shine.
  3. 8 points
    I obviously couldn’t wait to install them. The front was easy but the rear was a pain in the ass! They’re clip on and I’ll be surprised if they fly off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 7 points
    i'm pretty sure it will be something like this....
  5. 7 points
    Installed the new Baja Designs OnX6 Arc Series 30" light bar
  6. 7 points
    I agree with “right product wrong name.” This is not a “Blazer” it is a small family crossover. Naming it such is a sad attempt to gain more attention around the vehicle, and dishonors the old capable Blazer. Other than the name the RS model does look very nice.
  7. 7 points
  8. 6 points
    I finally got around to debadging my truck today, I wanna see some pictures of anybody else who has done it. I never wanted to for the longest time, but recently thought it would go better with the all black look let me know what y’all think! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. 6 points
    Be careful... pulling a pgamboa means you’re truck will never be 100% intact. LOL!! [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. 6 points
    I sure appreciate y'alls input! Lots of good info. Here's an update... I went for it! I bought the 3/4ton yesterday! Obviously I will need to put some more time in it to make an accurate assessment over various road conditions, but driving it home (only 2 hours on the interstate) my initial impression is: HOLY CRAP THIS IS SMOOTH!... So far, I can't even believe I thought it was going to be an issue. I absolutely love it so far. I sure hope I'm not speaking too early...fingers crossed! Here's a picture of it:
  11. 6 points
    Or you could just use the single ignition key to run the truck. Problem solved. First world problems....
  12. 6 points
    Couple bucks of tinted vinyl really changes the look of the front. Few more dollars transforms the interior.
  13. 6 points
  14. 6 points
    I like it...and it pretty much looks good only in RS trim...but I'm struggling to see why this exists? This should have been the Equinox. It looks sized like the old Equinox. Hell, it looks smaller than the new smaller Acadia. Its cargo cubic footage is only one cubic foot larger than the new Equinox. I think its the right product, wrong name. And whats with the Built in Mexico? Can't Spring Hill handle more capacity? They already build the Blazer's platform mates, the Acadia and the XT5. If Spring Hill couldn't, then why not give it to Oshawa to breath more life in that place? Oshawa is the king of GM's Flex Line (different platform cars rolling down the same assembly line).
  15. 6 points
    The 2500 6.0 is a value if there ever was one. In most cases, it can be driven off the lot for LESS than the most beefed up 1500 and will still exceed any 1500 any day of the week in both towing and payload capacity. And payload is the key here. While the max tow ratings seem neat on towing, usually one exceeds the max payload before they reach the max towing rating. The 2500 6.0 has 4.10 diffs also. The GCWR is around 20,500 lb. The pickup, loaded with fuel and two people, still has about 2500 lb of payload capacity remaining. And it is rated to pull about 13,500 lb of trailer. And the 2015 model with the exact same specs won the Ike Gauntlet pull challenge of being loaded to the max GCWR of 20,500 lb and doing it up I-70 in Colorado to the Eisenhower Tunnel. And the L96 6.0 is darn near bullet proof. Many have taken them to well over 300,000 miles without opening them up for a repair. Stacks of fleet trucks rely on them. The same motor is going into some cab over straight trucks from Fuso this year. None of the AFM nonsense that the 1500 series of motors have. And the L96 6.0 is flex fuel, which is nice for where I live. Even with the lower mpg of E85, the significantly lower cost of E85 still makes it a better value than regular gas on a cost per mile basis. My 2500 6.0 has been on E85 since late last fall. While the 5.3 is more "updated" as Paul stated, that also brings along a stack of its own unique problems also. Read thru GM related forums and see for yourself. Compare end user likes and dislikes between the 5.3 and 6.0. Sometimes being more up to date does not mean better quality. Fuel economy is relative to the driver in most cases. On regular fuel, my 2015 2500 has averaged only 1-2 mpg less than a 2013 5.3 1500 I had. Given the wide variance in capability between the two pickup trucks, the 2500 still comes in as the better value in my situation. That was my one foray into 1/2 ton pickup territory with that 1500 and I will never make that mistake again. I found myself inventing new swear words about that pickup and had to go back to the 2500. Even the wife likes the 2500 more. If you don't get the larger trailer, you would probably do fine and like the 1500. If the chances of getting the larger trailer, then go with the 2500. You will not regret the choice. As has been stated, overall capability with the 2500 in terms of suspension, brakes, etc makes a night and day difference when towing. Depending on weight of the larger trailer, wind, terrain, etc, the trailer could end up shoving a 1500 around. Not much of a chance of that with a 2500. I will concede, for around town, the 1500 is smoother and more car like. The 2500 can be a little stiff.
  16. 6 points
    Jerked the boat to the coast to find these!! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
  17. 5 points
  18. 5 points
    New raptor style amber running lights
  19. 5 points
    Just got mine done. No drilling or cutting required. Hooked them up to the trailer fuse #15 in the X50a fuse box with an add a circuit. Very happy!
  20. 5 points
    Love your truck and when these trucks have aggressive front ends. Here’s mine, still lots of work to do.
  21. 5 points
    Yesterday I had to run to Phoenix and back for work supplies. My company truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 long-wheel-base 2wd with 5.3L V8 (former Uhaul truck). I used cruise control, I meticulously went the speed limit, and I used the air conditioning and stereo during the trip. More than half of the trip I was hauling over 1500 lbs in the bed. By the time I returned the dash was telling me about 25 mpg for the round trip. Manual calculations at the pump said 23.49 mpg. In my opinion that's very good. Here's the video:
  22. 5 points
    GM publishes capacities. These are not numbers they pull out of their A$$ and the number also has built in safety margin arrived at by real engineers. If you are a normal rational person and not trying to tow at 90mph there is no reason you cannot tow something within specs without worry. Trailers that size have their own brakes that are capable of stopping more than their own weight. If you use a WDH you are better off setting it light than cranking it down. Too much WDH can unload the rear axle and cause the tail to wag the dog. If the rear sags a bit when loaded air bags or sumo springs will help. Yet another thread here where the incessant "Follow the Manual " crowd seems to make an exception for towing.
  23. 5 points
    Just clips. The door and vent trim is stupid easy. The stereo shroud is a bit of a pain though even though its just clips. Even with my trim tools It felt like it was going to snap before coming off. There are 2 screws you can take off the back of the vent shrouds to remove the little window diffusers. Drivers side vent shroud is exactly the same except it has 3 wiring harness's with lots of slack that can easily be undone after pulling it out. Quick vid showing how stupid easy the other trims are. Got carried away again and used another few yards of vinyl. Started with the steering wheel trim (I was debating leaving the piece where the stereo steering wheel controls would go but it looked odd so I decided to cut it out) That went so smooth I carried on and did the door pockets. (never knew there was a light in there...) Again, everything went swimminly so I carried on and did the glove box latches. (I'm Not sure I like them but it got me thinking it might look good with the both glove box doors done and the center piece of the upper dash but that's for another day) Things went to smooth so decided to punish myself and do the console and cup holder surround. (It was by far the hardest piece I've done. Not to mention I used one solid piece with no inlays to do it.) Was thinking I might tackle the upper part of the outside mirrors and the door handles since mine are just black plastic anyway but again for another day.
  24. 5 points
    Stop! You are wasting your money. I had the old 4.3 Vortec and I never *needed* more power, your truck is a rocket compared to my old one. If you want a faster truck, buy a truck with a bigger engine. You aren't saving any money buying a 4.3 truck and then putting money in it to mod it, and you sure as heck aren't saving money if you do an engine swap. If you've just got to mess with something, buy an old square body or earlier truck and mess with it. Keep the hood closed on your new truck and that way you'll always have something that will start and get you where you need to go.
  25. 5 points
    Love my Mexican built truck. Cuts the grass on its own.
  26. 5 points
    Jalopnik has become mostly useless. Most of their talented writers left when the lawsuit gutted Gawker. I couldn't care less what some city idiot thinks about trucks.
  27. 5 points
    Father's day wash and wax Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
  28. 5 points
    This was supposed to be posted in this thread not the Levelling kit thread, but that's what day drinking in 90 degree weather gets you... Anyway, got the tint done. Next is a levelling kit...
  29. 4 points
    Well, here is mine. No one makes a bracket for a hidden winch because of the tow hook bolt placements on the frame. All brackets and plates were made of 1/4 inch steel. I did have to drill one hole in the frame and run a 4 inch bolt through the passenger side frame, rear hole of the tow hook for the bracket bolts. I also had to cut off the lower front bumper brackets. The winch was to wide to sit between them so they had to go. The last major mod was the lower facia being cut. The fairlead sits right below the metal of the bumper and I cut out the plastic of course. I also cut the plastic to fit a receiver and we welded a small piece of angled steel to the bottom of the winch plate and used the original screws and retainer nuts for the facia bracket. Last, Oregon requires a front license plate. So I used 1-1/4 conduit holders, drilled holes in the license plate and original plate bracket, and it just simply snaps onto the fairlead. Completely hidden. Winch is a Badlands ZXR 12,000 with wireless remote. I am unable to use the spool lock, so no free spool for me on this setup unfortunately. I also ran quick connects 1/0 AWG wire to both front and rear of the truck. I will also be doing a hidden winch on the rear factory bumper of the truck in the coming weeks.
  30. 4 points
    We would never recommend replacing hub assemblies as maintenance items. Unless they have play, make noise, or the ABS sensor is shot, there's no need to replace them.
  31. 4 points
  32. 4 points
    If only GM was listening. This is by far, the BEST advice out there! ;) @GMCustomerService, the GM-Truck community has spoken. I will gracefully accept a donated 2019 GM Silverado or Sierra for the purposes of continued community support. Lower trim would be best please so we can see what can be done to them
  33. 4 points
    I understand you don't think techs know what they're talking about regarding fluids, because in all honesty, it's the last thing they care about regarding vehicle repair. Many techs are far past the faze of changing oil, that's for kids coming out of tech school. Instead they're fixing the problems that arise when people neglect changing their oil; they're replacing the timing chains that have stretched, the EGR valves that are clogged (because the oil is being sent down the exhaust), the lifters, the rings, the check engine lights from misfires. When you start taking these things apart, and you see the carbon buildup, the worn components, the sludge (and you know that customer doesn't change their oil because you check the service history), you kind of get biased against some of the things you read on bobs the oil guy, or some of these used oil analysis. I did NOT see these engine problems ten years ago that I am seeing now. Ten years ago everything was port fuel injected and timing belt. Now it's direct injected, timing chain and turbo. The rings got "less friction" to meet the cafe regulations that required these manufacturers to produce fuel efficient vehicles. Then one day we went from putting 5w30 in cars, to 0w20. Just like that. You mention your fleet vehicles, as you know the Detroit 60 12.7 takes 40 quarts of oil. Totally different ballgame. The rpm's probably don't reach 1,300 on the highway. It might even have two oil filters and uses heavy weight synthetic oil. It's made to go a long time without coming in for service (because to take it out of service loses people money). A GM truck takes 8 quarts, and uses a cheap E core filter. The block is aluminum. The valve train uses the oil to uncollapse lifters. It's being asked to flow freely through some pretty tight clearances, quickly. Then it's asked to seal rings that are no longer held against the walls with the same tension as engines 10-15 years ago. An injector is spraying directly in a cylinder at a bare minimum of 600psi, with a maximum of 2000. An engine ten years ago was operating with 50 psi, sprayed outside the cylinder. Now the oil gets a bath in fuel, regularly. It's an issue. No filter stops that. No additive can control it. You take a thin 0w20 oil and make it thinner with fuel. Then the fuel burns off and people send it to Blackstone. Yeah looks great! Go another 2,000 miles next time! I'm not saying to change your oil at 3,000 miles, or 10,000 miles, or 20,000 miles. I'm just saying that there's a reason why GM lowered the mileage on their oil life monitors, why BMW lowered theirs. Why we are seeing more engine failures, ring replacement, valve train issues since the early 80's. It's because technology shifted towards the NUMBER ONE GOAL of fuel economy. Longevity and reliability has temporarily taken a back seat.
  34. 4 points
    Here’s a few of the new shots.. this truck is now getting a ton of attention.
  35. 4 points
    If I remember you're a tech, right? I think you mentioned that before. I'll tell you what I've noticed; every Tech I know changes their oil out at 3,000 miles. EVERY SINGLE ONE. I'm not in the field anymore, I teach automotive, so it's not like I'm talking to 100 different techs a day, but the 20 or so I know personally change their oil at 3,000 miles using synthetic. I was the only one that believed in extended changes, they all thought I was nuts. And what happens?? The rings on my Lexus wore out. So me, this oil nut...this forum reading, telling these guys they're wasting their money dumping synthetic oil at 3,000 miles...ends up wearing out his engine at 160,000 miles. Was it because I was going 7,000-9,000 on oil changes? I don't know, but it sure looks like it. I never beat on the car, it was all highway mileage, I took great care of it, always garaged...but I bought into believing it was a waste to change your oil at 3,000 miles. Honestly I still think 3,000 is too soon...that I can go 5,000, but anything above that gives me the creeps now.
  36. 4 points
    Just finishing up a few things. I tied the fog lights to the parking lights and am finishing installing Pioneer AVH-4200NEX with Maestro. The Maestro does a lot of cool stuff like letting you gauges not normally available. Displays HVAC setting like OEM, shows TPMS, door status, retains OEM camera & SWC, and gives visual park assist. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
  37. 4 points
    Nothing yet. Just want the ability so that I can share the how to for those that want to add the sport bar, or grille lights, or for some other after market use really. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  38. 4 points
    Finally got the boat hooked up for some earlyorning fishing with my pops. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  39. 4 points
    What's 50% for you on the oil life monitor? I'm at 78% right now and I have 2,000 miles on the oil. So I think it depends on how many miles you're at, at that point. Is it 5,000? 4,000? 3,000? More? Less? I personally no longer let direct injection engines go further than 5,000 miles on oil changes. I'm done playing that game. My last direct injection engine was worn out at 160,000 miles, I don't think extended drains didn't it any favors despite using "high quality" oil and filters. There's a couple things with modern day engines that I believe are "tough" on oil nowadays. Direct injection, low tension piston rings, CAFE regulations, light weight oil and the return of timing chain engines...throw in the addition of turbocharging. Direct injection blasts carbon into the oil. The rings aren't sealing like they used to. Chains are shearing oil, and the carbon is also getting between the pins and rollars, stretching them. I'm just done testing the limits of oil. I'm done with used oil analysis. I'm doing 5,000 mile oil changes and that's it. Call me crazy.
  40. 4 points
    Finished up my TRS Retroquick install last night Love summer garage nights
  41. 4 points
    Taking off the RC 7.5 and Putting on the new Mcgaughys 7-9 lift with Cognito upper control arms today, will be done tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  42. 4 points
    Got my new wheels and tires put on! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  43. 4 points
    I got my painted fender flares in today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 4 points
    might i make a suggestion...if color match grill and bumper is going to cost you that much...you can just get a color match grill and upgrade you bumper...mine was give or take $1000...and no, i dont have to worry about rock chips on my bumper
  45. 4 points
    This is a case of believing the opposite of what is true based upon ignorance. 5th wheels/goosenecks of similar size are SAFER and EASIER to pull than a bumper pull in virtually every way. Most of the dynamic issues that cause a bumper pull to "slap a truck around like a rag doll" that weight distributing hitches, sway control systems, etc, were designed to try and cover up as best they can, simply don't exist in the first place with a 5th wheel. It's simply a much better way to tow a trailer. The truth is had you bought a 5th wheel instead of a bumper pull in the first place, you very likely would have avoided your "nightmare experience." If it was 7K your truck would have pulled it so well and so easily you wouldn't have needed to buy a bigger truck. FYI, the newer owners manuals have ratings specifically for 5th wheels/goosenecks. Anybody suggesting a guy who is within those guidelines is doing something unsafe based upon some irrational phobia of 5th wheels is doing so with no basis in reality.
  46. 4 points
    The engine wouldn't be my concern with respect to pulling a travel trailer of this size. It's the rest of the truck that is not designed for this type of load. An overloaded truck puts more than the driver at risk. I appreciate that some 5th wheel trailers are 1/2 ton tow-able but my guess is this example significantly exceeds the GCVWR.
  47. 4 points
  48. 4 points
    I would be willing to bet that my 06 Silverado I got rid of would have out last my 15 Sierra.
  49. 4 points
    I've ran two different level kits on my 2017 Sierra so far. First I purchased the Readylift 2.25" level with tubular UCA's which I ran with 275x65r20 Ridge Grapplers on my stock wheels. No rubbing and I was very pleased with the setup. After a few months I decided to buy aftermarket wheels and tires which were the Hostile Sprockets 20x10 -19 offset with 33x12.5r20 Toyo RT's. Major rubbing with the new wheels. I bought the Motofab 2.5" top mount spacers used from my friend and had a shop install those which took a lot of the rubbing away. Still rubs in reverse at full lock..very happy with the new look. The readylift 2.25" level gave my truck a slight rake which I liked. The Motofab 2.5" level gave my truck a totally leveled look which I've grown to like more. Attached are both setups. First picture is the Readylift 2.25" level with 275x65r20 ridge grapplers on stock tires. No rubbing. Slight rake. Second picture is the Motofab 2.5" level with 20x10 -19 Hostile Sprockets with 33x12.5r20 Toyo RT's. Minor rubbing. Perfect level.
  50. 4 points
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