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Showing most liked content since 04/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Yes lots of people have... You take your 2 wheel drive truck to the chevy dealer and pick out the 4x4 truck that you like best, negotiate a price and whatever you lose out on trading in your 2 wheel drive will be much less than the nightmare of trying to upgrade your 2 wheel drive to 4x4 by buying parts....
  2. 10 points
    New socks and shoes. Also did relearn on new TPMS. Thanks to those that helped me with this. You know who you are . This weekend, Headliner is coming down for roof Sound Deadening. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. 10 points
    Can’t beat some free Craigslist’s finds! I just happened to finish my fire pit the same day. Lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. 10 points
    I use my truck as the proverbial guinea pig to come up with mods for everyone here to enjoy! Otherwise, it just sits in the driveway. Not even a pavement princess. More like a driveway queen. LOL. I work from home and barely use the truck to run errands with a couple of miles from the house. The longest trip was a 3 hour drive south for a College visit.
  5. 8 points
    Paint correction done Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  6. 7 points
    Yesterday I did a full interior detail on my truck. Long overdue..... think I did an okay job. 2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition 4.5” CST suspension lift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 7 points
    1. There was a $10K Price difference in the higher trim. If I would have gotten and LTZ, I would have removed a lot of chrome (yes, I could have gotten color matched - but that meant more $) to make it how I wanted. I also wouldn’t have had the need for the innovative ideas for the various products I now offer to the community. 2. It’s fun to make it your own. 3. I’ve been able to offset the cost of most upgrades by selling the stuff I took off, to almost being in an even state. 4. I’ve met a lot of people (some in person too) and helping many, many others perform some of the upgrades you see posted here. 5. I was told by many - “It couldn’t be done”. Lol. ^^ That should have been the #1 reason Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. 7 points
    Packed the boat to the lake to find these!! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
  9. 7 points
    Quick detail after picking up from GMC body shop. Roof damaged from transportation was fixed and covered under GMC.
  10. 7 points
    Couldn't stand the "wood" trim so I wrapped these pieces in 3M vinyl carbon fiber. Really easy to do and changed the whole look of the interior.
  11. 7 points
    Got to admit Ford makes a tough bedliner .
  12. 7 points
    A few pics from last week:
  13. 6 points
    Swapped out my Gear Selector with one that has the leather trim on it. Just the minor attention to detail. LOL Side by side: Factory Leather appointment trim: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 6 points
    Had the bed coated with Line-X Premium today. Turned out great.
  15. 6 points
    Ask yourself one question - when the wife throws you out, do you want to sleep in a 5.5' bed, or a 6.5' bed?
  16. 5 points
    painted the honeycomb parts of my grill today. the paint color was "stainless steel black" and it looked like a metallic black on the can. After painting it was lighter grey metallic, but I really like the color so I'm probly gonna keep it.
  17. 5 points
    I had a bit of spare time a couple years ago during the hottest week of the year and figured it would be a great time to do some hot weather tuning and while I was at it, a further eval of the cooling system. I collected a bunch of temp data some may find useful. I posted some similar data a couple of years ago but it was limited to a single “after” run with a couple of mods allowing people to pontificate upon what they thought the “before” results would have been with the stock cooling system. Unfortunately side-arguments were started by people who don’t understand how the cooling system works and it overwhelmed the information provided in the thread. So here’s a second try. This time I collected enough data from enough configurations there’s really no room for any argument, just the results, just what the data show. For the sake of simplicity we’ll compare two runs, one run with the completely stock cooling system and the other configuration the one I recommend for those towing heavy loads in the mountains in the summer with 2014+ V8 trucks—with two simple mods, a 180 thermostat and more aggressive fan settings in the tune. Two of the most common tropes on the internet regarding cooling systems are “the thermostat doesn’t do anything as soon as the engine is ‘warmed up’ so it won’t make a difference,” and “the fans don’t do anything at highway speed.” Both are simply very wrong, for a multitude of reasons. While it’s possible to conceive of specific situations in which one or the other modification won’t be of benefit, the vast majority of drivers (probably on the order of 99.999% if both mods are done together) will never run into one of these situations while running hotter than they’d like. The data below speak for themselves. As I’m sure some are wondering, runs were also made with the 180 thermostat and stock fan settings along with the stock thermostat and modded fan settings. The results were unsurprising, showing one mod helpful in some situations, the other mod helpful in others, but neither mod alone fully effective in all situations. Putting the two together makes each more effective and gives significantly improved cooling performance in all situations which is why I recommend both. This post is long enough and will be confusing enough to many readers already so sticking to comparing the two configs for now is probably a good idea. But keep in mind when I explain and attribute parts of the results to one thing or the other, I’m not making it up, I have the data to support the conclusions. Here are the stock fan settings: And with the 180 Thermostat these setting were used: A snapshot close to the top with the stock system: A snapshot close to the top in the modded config: Cliff’s notes results: Those were the peak temps reached by each fluid. As you can see, the modified configuration dropped peak temps across the board by about 20 degrees. Peak temps of course, don’t tell the whole story. Looking at the data in more detail is instructive. Each run was 20 miles up a mountain pass. The first 15 miles has a decent slope with the last 5 miles or so getting pretty steep—more than a 5% grade. The long runs ensure all fluids had plenty of time to be fully warmed up and find their steady-state on the moderate slope before the steepest final five miles. Ambient temps were right around 92 degrees most of the way up the hill on all runs. Also of note, the runs were made with the cruise on 65 MPH in Tow/Haul Mode for most of the way, but on each run the last ½ mile or so required reduced vehicle speed due to traffic at the top of the hill. Here is an elevation profile of roughly the last 10 miles of the run. Each chart only shows the last 10 miles of each run to better show the differences as the first 10 of each is pretty boring and just takes up space. Note this was not intended to be any sort of “ultimate torture” test or “proof test,” indicating success on this test would insure the cooling system can handle anything. I’ve towed heavier loads up longer, steeper passes and many south of here have done that in much hotter weather (but not while collecting data with a laptop). This was a comparison test to show the differences in performance of the cooling system configurations. Temps headed in the wrong direction on this test, even if they didn’t quite get out of control, should be a red flag for more severe use. Coolant Temp: Here you can see that after the first 10 miles of steady state climb (beginning of the chart), the cooling system is doing pretty well in both configurations and the thermostats are not even fully open (thus the ~25 degree advantage for the 180 thermo). That’s pretty good news, especially for those with the stock system who live where it’s flatter and any hills encountered when towing will be of moderate slope and/or length. When the hill gets steep for the last five miles, the cooling system needs to start working much harder. As both thermostats open more fully, the advantage of the 180 thermo of the modified configuration is slowly negated so the temps converge a bit, but the higher fan speeds of that config still give the system more cooling capacity—along with the stock thermostat not being open 100% until the very end of the test. As you can see, even running full blast up the steepest part of the hill, the modified config tops out in temp, reaching a new steady state. The hill could have gone on forever and it would not have gotten any hotter. Then when vehicle speed is reduced, temp comes down immediately. It is clear the fans played a key role with the modded config as the temp rise stops as the fans approach full speed. Programmed to reach full speed at 212 degrees, the temp stops rising 5 degrees short of that, so the fans get cranked up pretty high, but never quite actually get to full speed, indicating there’s still a little cooling capacity left in the system that would require a tougher test to utilize. If it was possible to program the fans to reach full speed at a lower temp (without them running full speed all the time, which I deem unacceptable for general use) it’s very possible lower peak temps would have been maintained with this thermostat. It’s also possible a slightly higher temp thermostat would have resulted in similar peak temps with these same fan settings. But you can’t use these fan settings with the stock thermostat (it's just too high) unless you want them blasting all the time. The temp for the stock config is still climbing when running at full speed and when vehicle speed is reduced to 50 MPH or so, the temp spikes quickly. Had the steep part of the hill been any longer there’s no telling how high the temp would have climbed. It didn’t quite make it to the danger zone in this test but it’s easy to see how it could in a tougher test. I personally have no interest in ever letting my coolant get into the 230-240 degree range and it’s clear with the stock config that would have happened with a heavier trailer, steeper hill or hotter ambient temps. Other vehicles begin going into various protected modes at such temps. For example, the EcoDiesel will begin “defueling” when the temp hits 244 and you’ll begin slowing down to 18-wheeler speed. The modded config on this truck provides a huge margin of safety before reaching such temps. When vehicle speed is reduced, the stock fan settings really hurt the stock setup. It is very common for speeds to be limited by traffic or road safety when towing and this shows that while increased fan speed helps significantly even at 65 MPH, it’s really, really needed at ~50 MPH. In some states there’s a 55 MPH speed limit when towing a trailer and sometimes there’s just too much traffic to go any faster. Many also tow on gravel/dirt roads, mountain trails, etc, where vehicle speed is kept low even when the engine is working hard. For those conditions the fan settings are even more crucial than they were in this test. Given these results, the engine cooling system seems to be more than adequate on these trucks, even without the NHT radiator. All one needs to do is “turn it on” a bit more aggressively with the lower temp thermostat and fans that don’t wait until you’re close to a meltdown before they crank on with some authority. I see no other mods needed for engine temp control in any situation. Oil Temp: Since the oil cooler is an oil/water cooler located in the cool tank of the radiator—so water temps have a direct effect on its effectiveness--it’s not surprising the oil temps stayed proportional to the water temps, beginning about 20 degrees cooler for the modified setup and converging a bit as water temps converged on the steep part. Again, the modified config found a new steady state in the middle of the most difficult part, indicating the hill could have gone on forever and temps would have risen no further. The stock setup, however, allows the oil temp to keep rising until the end of the hill—had the hill gone on another few miles, how much higher would the temp have climbed? 250 degrees on this test indicates it could get really toasty under harder use with the stock setup. For good fully synthetic oil (I run Redline) 250 is no big deal for short periods if infrequent. I don’t worry about the oil temp at all on my Camaro until it exceeds 300…but then again I change the oil on my Camaro after a single day at the track and don’t rack up that many miles on the engine so engine wear is less of a concern. I don’t think many people change the oil in their truck every time they tow something up a hill, so if you’re cooking the oil on a regular basis and still trying to run it 10,000 miles between changes, keeping the temps down a bit might be a good idea. 0W-20 is thin as water at regular temps, at 250+ it simply won’t protect as well as thicker oils of the same type. Yes, it reduces wear at startup, especially in cold weather, but it can’t do that and also be optimum for really high temps—so trying to prevent it from reaching such high temps is a good idea. For those who drive a truck for a couple years before trading it in it might not be so concerning, but for those who want to keep a truck long past the warranty period and put on a lot of miles, reducing engine wear is a smart thing to do. Using the EcoDiesel as an example again, it begins defueling when the oil hits 266 degrees indicating they feel that is very bad for the engine. Given these results, the stock oil cooler shows it is pretty effective. When the water in the radiator is kept to a reasonable temp in the modded config, the oil cooler is plenty adequate for keeping the oil temps in check. I don’t see a need for adding an aftermarket cooler or modding the stock system in any way, just keep the engine from running too hot when it’s working hard. Trans Temp: Here you can see on the moderate portion of the hill, the mods only made a small difference. Since most (or even all in some conditions) of the cooling comes from the air/oil cooler in the system, and the trans fluid cooling system has its own thermostat, lower water temps only have a small secondary effect on trans temps so the engine thermostat change alone won’t do much. And before the trans fluid thermostat is wide open, the increased fan speed only has a small effect. As the trans warms up, the increased fan speeds do help obviously as you can see the results begin to diverge as the hill gets really steep. In the stock config, the temp was climbing quickly all the way to the top. If the hill was longer, there’s no telling when it would stop. While for a shorter period of time than the other fluids, the temp does reach somewhat of a steady state temp in the modded config before vehicle speed is reduced indicating if the hill went on forever the temp should stay close constant. And the temp is low enough even if it gains another couple degrees, it’s a non-issue. The most worrisome part of the results for the stock system is the huge temperature spike at the top of the hill where vehicle speed is reduced. With the fans humming along in the modded config, there is no large temperature spike. This is an especially important thing for people to note who tow at lower speeds as described above. Towing in traffic is especially hard on the transmission as the on gas/off gas nature keeps the converter unlocking and slipping all the time, creating a lot of heat. The same can be said for winding roads/mountain trails. Unfortunately there are not separate fan settings in the computer based upon tranny temp, you need to get them on indirectly by assuming any time the transmission wants to get hot the engine will be warm enough that the modded fan settings I show above will have kicked in. This should work for most situations but it is possible (towing at low speeds, especially in very cold weather) that won’t always be the case. For pure highway towing the mods I listed above should be adequate. Keeping the transmission temps below 210 degrees in a test like this keeps you way out of the danger zone and nothing else is really needed. However, if you do tow at lower speeds a lot it may be worth it to you to add another layer of protection. The easiest way to do that is to bypass the stock tranny fluid thermostat and splice in an aftermarket one. This should have a similar effect as the lower thermostat does for the engine temp—giving it a lower baseline temp 95% of the time and keeping max temps lower by simply “turning on” the trans cooler a larger percentage of the time in mixed use and earlier during sustained hard pulls. I would not recommend simply bypassing the stock thermostat without replacing it with something. There’s really no advantage to running these modern transmissions colder than 180 or so and some disadvantages, especially in winter use. According to the data so far, the stock air/oil cooler seems adequate so I see no reason to advocate adding a larger aftermarket cooler at this point. But I don’t yet have any data for the system with a lower temp trans thermostat or lower speed testing. I’ll probably do that at some point and try to collect data in situations where the above mods might not be enough. Given the testing so far, I do think it would be very difficult to come up with a scenario where the above mods and the addition of a new tranny fluid thermostat are not enough to keep temps under control and wouldn’t advocate going to the hassle and potential downsides of installing a new cooler until some sort of data indicated it was needed. But more testing in this area is needed. Conclusions: For a 2014+ truck with a V8, even with the non-NHT radiator, I conclude the following for towing in hot weather where steep hills/mountain passes will push the cooling system to the max of its capabilities, in stock configuration and with two mods—a 180 degree engine thermostat and reprogrammed fans. Engine temp: In stock config the system is adequate for all but the harshest of conditions (harder than the above test). However there is indication a harder test could drive engine temps dangerously close to overheating, even if it doesn’t get to the point of spewing steam, it will come too close for comfort for many owners. With the two mods, the stock cooling system should be completely adequate for any situation. Engine oil temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep engine oil temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, oil life is reduced, engine wear is increased, etc. With the two mods, engine oil temps are kept in check and the stock system should be adequate for any situation. Trans Temp: In stock config, the system is not adequate to keep trans temps in the range many users would like for longevity and in a tougher test could reach temps where warning messages appear, fluid life would be reduced and transmission could risk damage. In the modded config, trans temps are kept in check and the system should be adequate for any highway-speed condition where transmission heat is due to longer, sustained hard work as the engine temps will also rise triggering an increase in fan speed. The above test does not guarantee the system will be adequate in all lower speed conditions, especially in cold weather where the engine might stay cold enough the fans will not speed up (unless you have them programmed to stay blasting all the time which is not recommended for various other reasons). More testing and possibly other mods required (lower temp trans thermostat, larger cooler if high temps are still reached after that). One caveat for the entire cooling system overall is that these tests were done with the 6.2. It’s reasonable to suspect they might not have been as good (for each config) if tested on a 5.3 which will need higher RPM and lower gears to maintain speed going up steep hills. For a given load and a given hill, the 5.3 just needs to work harder than the 6.2. This does tend to put more heat in the fluids and I believe everybody thus far who has reported here getting warning messages when towing up passes and had to slow down has had the 5.3—even with the NHT radiator. So for concerned 5.3 owners I’d say look at the above results with the fact all temps may have been higher with a 5.3 in mind, making the mods an even better idea for the smaller engine. Another caveat is that this truck does not have those fantastic grill shutters…. I’ve done zero investigation into how those are operated and how much restriction they add even when open. Any restriction to airflow through the radiator only makes fan power more important, so if anything they would result in an even larger difference between the two configurations. One of the more important things this test reveals, is just how lucky we are. GM did a pretty good job on the cooling system of these trucks and big N/A V8’s are generally easier to keep cool than smaller turbo motors. Most never have any issue in completely stock form, and with a couple of simple mods that “turn on” the cooling system a bit sooner, we can work these trucks hard without worry, no matter the load, no matter the ambient temp. Other brands don’t have it so good. Before buying this truck, I was heavily looking at both the Ford Ecoboost and the Ram Ecodiesel. Both of those trucks have serious issues in tests like this. The Ram has it much worse—they run into the defueling conditions even with lesser loads on lesser hills and even in cool weather. It is very unlikely one of those could have completed this test without having to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range ½ way up the hill. They simply aren’t remotely as capable as these trucks are. Some owners spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, different grills for more airflow, etc, but most simply seem satisfied to slow down to the 30-40 MPH range on big hills. They sure do get great mileage though. The Ecoboosts don’t have it quite that bad (they’re much more capable trucks), but they do commonly have issues. Heavy loads up long passes in high ambient temps—especially at high altitude—commonly heats them up to the point they enter “Reduced Engine Power” mode where the engine begins cutting boost until the turbos are basically shut off. Owners of these tucks also spend money on bigger radiators, intercoolers, aftermarket oil coolers, etc, but even with all that, nothing seems to “fix” the issue. We don’t need to worry about any of that. Owners commonly force downshifts to increase the engine RPM as a matter of course (sort of negates that whole “low RPM torque tows just like a big diesel” bragging point). Lots of Ecodiesel and Ecoboost owners end up upgrading to heavy duty trucks (usually of the same brand as they are loyal) simply due to frustration of overheating issues when the trucks are worked hard. It’s nice we don’t have to worry about that. Good job, GM.
  18. 5 points
    I got teased pretty good for adding the roll bar and lights to my '14, but I like it, so I don't care. Sent from my VK815 using Tapatalk
  19. 5 points
    I don't have a beard but wife does have a mustache .....does it count ??
  20. 5 points
    Billet isn't permanent looking for a change lol. I did pull the valance off to see how it would look I think I like it without. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  21. 5 points
  22. 5 points
    Added some Go-Rhino D6 Dominator steps Will update when there is light [emoji4] And then there was light. Going to do some more tweaking tonight. I think they look ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 5 points
    Another 2 thumbs up for the tailgate assist. Easy install and excellent upgrade for under $30 on the trucks that didnt come equipped with the easy down tailgate. I painted my brackets to match the truck so it has a more factory appearance. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
  24. 5 points
    If you need to go thru all of the hassle of selling a spare only to replace it with a cheaper steel wheel with a used tire, to maybe net 100 bucks, you probably shouldn't have bought a $45k truck.
  25. 4 points
    Made yet another change in my audio system plans! I'm going all out with a fully active system and Mosconi processor so I'm gonna sell the Alpine x110slv 10" Restyle kit This unit is extremely easy to install with all included plug n play harnesses and is in like new condition (been in for a few months and my truck only has a little over 8,000 miles in 2 years so it hasn't been used much). I would really like to sell it locally if possible (Monterey CA and I'll even help you install it) to avoid having to repackage everything but I will so it can be shipped safely if it comes down to that. Asking $1050.00 picked up or if you are interested in having it shipped we can chat about working that out. 831-383-0308 7am-8pm pst Instagram @mrmarvsplace Google "Mr Marv Tacoma" for references or message for a link to my 700+ 100% positive 18 year eBay feedback.
  26. 4 points
    Finally got my console installed and I love it and everything works fine Thanks to pgamboa. Johnny01: Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
  27. 4 points
    Not for my truck, but the next one will be. Wired up this 6 relay/fuse box for additional accessories. Simple power, ground, switch input and accessory output connections. I've got a circuit breaker for the main power also. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  28. 4 points
    I posted this in the black silverado/Sierra section but thought I’d post here too. 3 hours later and the beast is looking pretty damn good. 2015 Silverado LT Midnight Edition 4.5” CST suspension lift Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  29. 4 points
  30. 4 points
    2017 Chevy Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L 4.5" Zone 22x10 American Force Grips 33x12.5 Nitto Ridge Grapplers Instagram @wildchevys
  31. 4 points
    Agreed I just did this vinyl, I like it. My friend made fun of me but meh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  32. 4 points
  33. 4 points
    I finished installing my rear and side aux lights for Camping and Plowing. The side lights are 3,700lm and each has its own switch to control it. Facing rear I have a 16,000lm light on the headache rack and 2 4,800lm lights in the bumper. The rear light can be used in one of 2 ways. 1st is with a switch in the overhead. The 2nd is when the cargo lights are turned on these rear aux lights will come on. So if the cargo lights are left on these lights will go on and off with the backup lights. I installed a waterproof switch under the left bed rail that turns off the aux lights so I can use the stock cargo lights without being blinded. Regardless of how the aux lights are switched they are powered by the 2nd battery I installed so I have no fear of killing the truck's battery by using them with the truck off. I went out of my way to install the switches in such a way that they look somewhat factory. Or at the very least don't look too tacky. I now have more light facing backward than forward as you can see in the pictures. I would like to add an LED light bar inside the grill but this being a 2017 I can't find one that will fit. Tho when I did all the wiring for this system I did install a switch and wiring for a forward light bar should I find a way. This is a complete stand along electrical system that only ties into the trucks system in 2 places. One is by way of a battery crossover with isolator and the other is a signal line from the cargo lights. My hope is that the dealer will not give me a hard time if I have a warranty issue in the future.
  34. 4 points
    In between packing up our house to move and work I finally found time to pull together my review of the Bumpershellz I installed on my Sierra. I picked up a set of the bedlined bumpershellz for my GMC through the recent group-buy we did on the forum a while back. Side note, thank you to everyone who participated, it was fun. First impression, these things are badass!!! The bedliner was an excellent choice. I was back and forth between doing a PTM or the bedliner, glad I went with the liner version. I have installed body accessories in my tuner days (think, front lips on Civics) and was fully expecting to have to modify the shellz to fit my truck because body panel accessories never fit. These fit right out of the box making life REALLY easy. One note, the adhesive is really tacky so like Eminem says, "You only get one shot, do not miss your chance to-" TEST FIT! TEST FIT! TEST FIT! Final verdict: I would without a doubt install these again if I needed to. Anyways here are some pictures of the final product and my Youtube install video. Water Fowler junior wanted to help and shows that even kids can do this install. Installation sparknotes for the laz: Clean bumper Wipe bumper with isopropyl alcohol Install blackout tape Remove adhesive backing Slap the shellz on the truck Sit back and admire Enjoy!!! WF41 https://youtu.be/YKUyQgOYLNI
  35. 4 points
    Just got done leveling my truck today. Specs: king 2.5 coil overs set at 2.5”, camburg UCA’s, king 2.5 piggyback rear shocks, 295/70r17 Toyo Rt’s with 17x8.5 method nvs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  36. 4 points
  37. 4 points
    If you turn the truck right side up the headlights will aim better. Maybe that will make enough difference?
  38. 4 points
    17×8.5 0 offset Method NV's 285/75/17 Cooper ST MAXX
  39. 4 points
    Here’s the latest pics of my 2017 Silverado. Here is a list of the aftermarket mods I put on: -K&N CAI, Diablo Predator 2, Dual Magna-flo exhaust, 4” Ready Lift lift kit, OR pocket flare fender, tow mirrors, 20 x 12 Helo wheels with 33’s.
  40. 4 points
    My 15 Silverado (non Diesel) looks great with this hood. I went non chrome grill
  41. 4 points
    Lights are done, going back on the truck tonight.
  42. 4 points
    Washed, waxed and detailed interior.
  43. 4 points
    Don’t have kids, crew cab is more $$ than double cab so I got the double. When we do have kids I’ll prob just get the wife an suv but, quite frankly kids are so small when they’re young who needs the leg room and if you don’t spoil em with the big back seat they won’t know what they’re missing lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  44. 4 points
    Went and sprayed it off and ran into a buddy. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
  45. 4 points
    Looks like he forgot to tie it down. At least the tailgate stayed in place. I think the damage would be similar in a steel bed. I would like to know what the hell was in that bed and how fast he was making the turn. Looks like the bed liner stayed in one piece.
  46. 4 points
    so i own my own business... an embroidery company. one of the first things i did when i got my truck was take it to one of the upholstery shops that i do jobs for. they were worried about keeping the "stock look" of the headrest after re-assembly (since it would all need to be taken apart so that i could embroider the headrest panel) so be aware of that. when i redid the interior of my '89 we had a little fun... lots of chevy logos in the cab.... this was on the door for a while.... then i changed it to this... 89Chevy....
  47. 4 points
    That looks great with the brackets painted and I've found mine to be esoecially useful with the remote dropping tailgate (another less than $50.00 mod)
  48. 4 points
    It is funny how important those hp/tq numbers are to most of us who take pride in our vehicles. Intellectually we know these numbers are only part of the performance equation. Many of us have spent decades driving full sized pickups (V8 and L6) boasting significantly less than 200 hp. We still bragged about our trucks, raced them and carried ridiculous loads. The only factory numbers that are truly important, in my opinion, are those that state load and towing capacity. If you keep within these limits, your truck will perform well in all normal (safe and legal) driving situations.
  49. 4 points
    Remember, the trucks are up to 400lbs lighter now too. If you keep the power the same, the weight loss and added gears will add performance.
  50. 4 points
    Wired up the LED pods in the rear bumper. What a difference with backing up!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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