I get less worried by the post. Thanks!
In the Lap of Luxury Chrysler Pacifica Touring. I'm sitting in the second row behind my friend who is peacock proud of his new ride. Older couple and successful business owners. This thing rides NICE. It is quite and it reminds me of first class seating in air travel actually. Lots of connectivity. I can watch a movie privately. Screen, headphones mounted to the seat back in front of me. Adjust the climate control over head and a reading lamp PLUS this thing has an on board vacuum cleaner! Seat is pretty nice reminiscent of the captains chairs in luxury vans of days gone by. Neutral grays and black with a smattering of SHINNNNNNNNY. After the "Shock and Awe" wears of a bit and right about the time he asks, "So...what do you think?", I get all uncomfortable because my mouth is about to say things I'm going to regret. Go figure.....Nice timing friend. Under my feet is a short pile carpet of recycled soda bottles. Woven PETG. I'm sitting on what I would guess is nylon stitched "Pleather". Everything within the reach of my eye is either pebble grained, smooth mat, smooth shinny, smooth shinny foil rapped or clear plastics save of course the picture window sized door glass that is optically perfect that can be covered with plastic window shade. Cold, stiff and meant to hide behind the technology it surrounds. "I miss leather or even just well made yard goods. I miss REAL fine woods. Wool. Linen/Cotton and silk. I miss lacquered steel and polished stainless and honest triple plate chrome, brass and accent gold instrument foil. I miss glass and incandescent light. I miss the natural world this IS luxury. I miss the look of it, the smell of it, the sound of it and the feel of it. I miss a door that sounds solid when closed and a crackly old AM radio. I'll be totally honest now that I've stepped in it. I even miss and perfectly balanced and ultra simple flat straight six with a three in the tree. Smooooooooooooooth. Quite. Honest Luxury. Mostly I miss the price tags you could buy them for". It was a short walk back and I'm guessing dinner is off this Friday.
This could still be informative and entertaining. Doublebase says he is snapping manifold off photos every 60K. His truck is newer so it may take awhile to get a report but my eyes and mind will remain open. I'll try not to loose the above photo to compare.
This is the 70K port cropped and rotated. I see nothing there to clean. Does this look like the 'horror' photo's from the can manufactures? No. It looks like hundreds of carbureted motors with similar miles. I would expect the owner chose the worse one in the motor for the photo. My motor stays together. My money stays in my wallet. I'll sleep just fine.
Additional thought. You've conceded that Pepper will likely reach 150K at least matching the industry standard motor, powertrain Lifetime. The question is, given that stipulation, isn't will it keep her insides cleaner but rather what the added value is for adding the CC?
From May 28, 2019 to October 10, 2019 I drove a distance of 13,381 miles, 4-1/2 months. Used 439.55 gallons of fuel for an average of 30.4 mpg. Over the last full calendar year she has posted 29.0 mpg. The CC manufactures tell us that this is not possible and that damage is reflected in MPG will happen as soon as 30K. See our problem here? We haven't any failure to gauge any future improvement against. I have an impossible number to beat that is still on the rise given the 3% per 10,000 mile constant improvement over the full 100K. Until that stops anything we do will show an improvement. We shouldn't pay into a stacked deck. A marketer would do that. A scientist would not. Stopping now without a corresponding bench value tells us no more than 'sweeping the floor makes the floor cleaner". We already know that.
Taken as a complement. Thank you. A study. Well, such an endeavor would need a benchmark. Something that says it's use is meaningful or advantageous. To know what that might be I would first have to not use one and fail the benchmark then repeat exceeding by some meaningful measure past the failure. In other words I need to continue my present course until the motor fails some expectation, then repeat and exceed the that marker by some magnitude that says the device 'adds value' for the average person. Cleanliness, in and of itself would not qualify as such a bench mark unless it's lack hinders something operational. Such as a drastic reduction in fuel efficiency for example. Something supporters of the device claim universally. At which time we pull the manifold and document and assign 'root cause'. Restore the OEM condition, fit a can and repeat. Does that sound about right? If so then I'm 100K into the first stage and still gaining fuel efficiency. According to the Ford Class Action Suit on EPA mileage estimates the sides have agreed on 150K as a definition of a motors "Lifetime". Guess that would mean if I make it to 150K then I've already proved there is no added value for the product. I have but 45K to the finish line. But I can't stop until it fails or else we have nothing to gauge results? If I make to 150K without a failure then we already have our result, correct? If there is nothing there you disagree with then let the games begin!!
104,000 trouble free AFM miles. So far, so good. Doesn't use oil. No lifter failures. No Cam failure. No issues period!
105,000 Mile Service 104,890 actual: 4810 miles OCI. 0W30 Red Line and NAPA Gold filter. Repeat it did. Between a cup and a half quart used. Rotate tires. Wearing well. Injector service by gas additive. Once each 5K miles. Routine. Some PEA add. Not that picky. Nothing much else to report this time. Running like a top. Dirty as a pig.
The more photos of see of motors like this 70 thousand mile unit the LESS reason I have to consider a Catch Can. Even less reason to consider "Induction Services". Cabin and intake filters kind of depend on the area where you drive. I get by with longer intervals than the farmers in my area that live on dirt and gravel roads. I live rual paved and 25K seems about right for both. I could actually clean the cabin filter and reinstall knocking the leaves and bees out of it. It isn't that big a job. Buying the Torx driver was harder.
Assuming you haven't any need for sub zero freeze protection in SoCal. A 25% EG based antifreeze (Dexcool) solution will increase the specific heat capacity from .865 to .953 BTU/Pound per degree F. (water is 1.00). Add one ounce per quart of Red Line Water Wetter. You could run as low as 20% but below that running the AC could cause some freeze problems. BOOM!! The Red Line not only improves the heat transfer rate but adds back the lost additives due to the lower solution percentage. (Use a refractometer to adjust). At 25% you will have freeze protection to @ + 12.7 F. Burst protection to @ 0 F. Boil over to @ 218 F at 0 PSIA, @ 255 F at 15 PSIG. The lower viscosity of the solution will increase the pumping rate roughly 12-15%. This is a bit more than a 10% increase in cooling capacity with just the chemistry. It will not cool below the thermostat setting however. You have a 207 F water thermostat. I would expect it would run a few degrees over that but under 212 F at 15 PSIG. that is your pressure cap setting. It is also the factory fan tip in point if I remember correctly. You can gain more with a cooler thermostat from a Camaro (mid 190's F). The stat is a drop in. You could also use a Katech 174 F as a drop in. (1SLOW1500 runs one) IPSCO makes an upper hose splice in that allow use of any GM style 54 mm Stant with really opens things up. But don't go below 170 F. This is all good and fine as long as road speeds stay over 50 MPH. Below that the fan settings will need some adjusting to kick in at a lower set point than the factory 212F. If that is not adjusted slow traffic and city water upper limits will be at the mercy of the fan setting. That is it would not make any difference how low the thermostat setting is if there is little air through the radiator. Jon A has done allot of research on fans settings while hauling. Look him up. The transmission has thermal bypass set at around 192 F. Flipping the pill up side down bypasses it fully. That should bring your transmission temps down under 200 F. If not....you need more cooler as others have replied. If fact staying below 180 F would be what you would hear from the major trans rebuilders. PML has an 8 quart alloy pan with a drain plug that picks up 2 quarts of capacity. Slows the rate of temp increase and shortens recovery time. Red Line D6 trans fluid (I'm assuming you have the six speed) has a slightly higher specific heat capacity and a higher heat tolerance. Just information, not an endorsement.
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