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Grumpy Bear

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Grumpy Bear last won the day on January 19

Grumpy Bear had the most liked content!

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About Grumpy Bear

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    Senior Enthusiast

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    Earth...most of the time.
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    2015 Chevy 262 V-6

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  1. Comments/Questions to responses: Help me understand if OEM is not over sprung, why does adding a few hundred pounds in the bed suddenly transform to a smooth ride? Why don't they just make something progressive? Let's say for sake of argument you have a truck that weighs 1,000 lbs. per corner and you wish to have 8 inches of travel. Your shock absorber will then need about 9 inches of travel minimum to neither bottom nor top out thus your spring selection should be one that leaves the shock at mid stroke with the vehicle sitting on the ground ready to roll. 1,000 lbs. / 4.5 inches = 222 pounds per inch spring rate. If you need it to carry 2,000 pounds of pay load adding 1,000 per side to the rear alone (load over the axle center) then you wheel load has doubled and you will need a spring twice as stiff to remain at mid stroke loaded or a spring of 444 pounds per inch spring rate. Empty you have 1,000 pounds on a spring of 444 pounds per inch thus 1,000 / 444 = 2.25" of deflection. She will sit 2" butt high unloaded and ride awful. Adding a few hundred pounds just takes you closer to the 'proper' spring rate for the load being carried. Bottom line? For running empty and sprung for a load TWICE it's name plate value of a HALF TON or 500 per wheel it is in fact over sprung FOR EMPTY RUNNING. Perfectly sprung for fully loaded and something in between at any other load between those two points. Adding weight tames the beast. Progressive nature in a leaf spring comes from the number of leaves in the spring. For the same deflection the more leaves in the spring pack the more progressive the rate. In my 2015 I had two leaves plus an overload. Not very progressive and hard to dampen. My Deaver pack is something like 15 leaves, very progressive and much kinder to dampers. Also outside your budget. IF you in fact have a two leaf pack plus the short overload it 'may be' MAYBE possible to remove the center leaf. This will drop the rear but without knowing the exact single leaf rates you would have to experiment to find the exact value. A dedicated spring shop like Deaver or National, Elgin Driveline could do the calculations. That said it will require a custom and tunable damper. Maybe Viking is in your price range? ( I try things I would never tell anyone else to do ) The front half is easier actually. Eibach might be in your range. Speak to their engineer and talk about the total package. On the cheap you MIGHT be able to use a Bilstein or Monroe up front with decent results. I'd say King but just the front coil overs kills your budget. Hope that answers your questions even if it isn't a solution it should provide some direction. Your headed in a direction that cuts across the grain. Patients and listen to the people that do it for a living. Eibach and National type people or a dedicated suspension shop like Filthy Motorsports. Viking.
  2. Black02Silverado's 2019 Silverado

    Congrats on the new truck Nick! Just saw your build thread and thank you for sharing your 2019 experience. Tasty choices you're making. Nice! Please, keep your maintenance log in this thread...please? Including your fuel log spread sheet or at least the summaries. Oil analysis. I'm excited for you. Trips? Photos..... Great to hear the 10 speed is a winner. Hope AMSOIL develops a trans fluid for them.
  3. What to Linex

    My local Line-X shops owner did his entire Jeep inside and out. Whatever. I did the bed including under the rails plus rear wheel well liner area. I did a 3M clear bra on the leading edges of the hood and front fenders and inside door sills. No drill Weather Tech mud flaps. I have a Go-Rhino step bar and added factory bed corner caps. Basically shielding the lower half of the trucks sheet metal. It is now 5 years old (a 15 built in 14) and has 86,000 miles on her. All but one of the less that a half dozen chips I have had to repair (and I repair all chips) is well above the common lower 6" line people like to Line-X most. I do have a mark or two in the clear bra which did it's job and is self healing with a hair drier. Oddly the chips it has gotten come from things hitting from above the road surface. Kids throwing ice balls from the ditch. A bird flew into it. Some junk falling off a semi flat bed holding heavy equipment. A guy tossing a beer can out the window coming at me. The one chip in the 'rock zone' was in it when I bought her on the back of the cab. Only mark on it then. As a WT1 it has dark semi-flat grayish painted bumpers. Those are taking a beating and yes, I will have them blasted and Line-X coated this spring inside and out OR epoxy inside, repainted outside and clear bra. Haven't decided yet.
  4. Evidently Bugatti is unaware they can't get TWO TONS of mass to handle, ride, accelerate or stop. Bugatti Veyron SS. Over 4,000 pounds dry. 1.4 G lateral. 0-200 mph-0 in 23.6 seconds. 0-62 mph under 2.5, 1200 hp. Does NOT ride like a truck. I repeat, it is a platform and responds like any other platform. Yes, you're not your. I beg your pardon.
  5. Your asking an either/or question to an issue that cannot be solved with an either/or answer. I wish is could. I spent nearly five thousand on my setup and LOVE it but I could spend that much again and still find improvement. Take note of 1SLOW1500's reply. He's asking the right questions. The ones that start with you and not your truck. Almost every reply you will get is well meant and yet coming from a person who has their own preferences and views the situation through their own paradigm. Questions about your expectations and the trucks 'real' utility requirements, honestly answered, will enhance your results. My fur stands up when I hear replies that start, "It's a truck". What it is, is a platform. VW Beatle or 1 ton pickup, it's a mass riding on four wheels with a suspension in between. It can be whatever you like it to be within the limits of it's framework and even that an be changed if you like. A platform intended to carry a ton and pull five isn't going to have the ride of a Buick and a platform that rides like a Buick won't haul a ton or pull five. That does not mean that there are not some compromises that can be made to widen the results. bdbaker01's comments on the back half an example. What it does mean is that you have to make up your mind and commit to a direction and be prepared to spend. Any measure have taken...….well....it is disappointing. Preface complete, the factory coil-overs and rear shocks are price point items that don't do any task well. bdbaker01's comment about it being a truck is a statement of fact rather than that of a possibility. (I dislike the statement because it implies it isn't possible when it is) Almost every replacement item in the aftermarket considers it a truck and designs to accommodate that fact. Most attempt to make it MORE of a truck. Meaning getting spring rates in a range that gives a car like ride is hard to find and finding shocks that are sealed tube shocks to have car like dampening is IMPOSSIBLE. It's a small market that no one what's a part of. That said there are vendors that will make you anything and you can buy rebuildable, tunable dampers in any configuration that please you. All it takes is commitment and $$$$. All that said, the most common complaint about the factory set up is that harsh jar you get on expansion joints, railroad tracks and steps in the pavement. Any aftermarket damper will improve that situation with the key word being IMPROVE. Eibach, Bilstein, Monroe, KYB, OEM replacements have improved dampening that works with factory spring rates. Match a set of those of your favorite flavor with setting castor to the lower half of the factory specs and Sulastic rear spring hangers....about as good as a budget build gets.
  6. Std coil spring options

    Some GM tech must know, right?
  7. 2015 Silverado WT1 RCSB with 86,000 miles. Not new when I bought Pepper but only a thousand miles on the clock. I've seen demonstrators with more miles on them. My list of repairs: Pinion seal and....well....that's it, a pinion seal. I could have not fixed it. Just a damp spot that never showed up in oil loss. But I'm OCD and old. I'm told that's a dangerous combination. It doesn't shake. At any speed. AFM is flawless and seamless. 6L80E transmission shifts perfectly. Gets great fuel economy. Doesn't use ANY oil at least at 5K OCI. No catch can. Killer brakes. Still on OEM wipers, tires, brakes, belts, hoses with plenty of service to spare. I didn't like the OEM ride and have extensively reworked the entire suspension. Some are good with the stock suspension tuning, some are not. It was a preference. I've upgraded the low beams one step whiter and readjusted the aiming. I modified the both motor and transmission cooling systems. Again personal preference most don't give a second thought. Did I mention my OCD nature? I'd buy a second one BUT I personally favor the 2015's. 15's has some features I liked standard that were optional in 14 and starting with the 16's I just don't like what they did with the hood. It is a part I am forced to look at every day. Again personal preferences. Having said all this some people have had issues with this platform and I would never say they didn't but sad as it is these issues when they get to print tend to morph from 'I had an issue' to 'they all are junk'. Not true and Pepper is proof. If your dad likes it and it's been trouble free and you like they way he maintains it....why not?
  8. There use to be this kid in a town I grew up in I saw on the 'mile' but never really knew except that he wasn't shy about the use of the loud pedal, power braking clouds and neutral drops abundantly. He stops by my shop one day asking about a C6 I'd just freshened and put on the board. He want's to know what warranty I am willing to provide and wants me to take his check. None and no. Cash and to the end of the drive I tell him. "I've seen you drive". He tells me I must be a crap builder. Whatever. Look, a box last as long as it last and that is subject to the use and maintenance it gets. Yea, yea, yea, everyone makes a lemon and some, granted have weakness it doesn't take much to exploit into a major problem. They ALL do. Treated right the 6L80E and 6L90E are good boxes. Treated other, you get other.
  9. Banging on the insurance industry. Take a breath. My brother hit a deer with his Olds 88 dead on at 60 mph. Insurance company replaced everything from the windshield forward plus both air bags. I hit a down but not done one ( on his knees) at about 50 mph with my Civic. Split him in two. It is still being driven. Mom use to have a saying, "I've had bigger scratch's than that on my eyeball".
  10. https://altairenlighten.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Enlighten_award_slide_module_Faurecia.pdf I note that placement in the system is critical. Interesting.
  11. So I pay a premium. Hit a deer and the insurance company makes money by giving me the lesser of the two values; the depreciated mileage adjusted wholesale auction price or the salvage price, which ever is less, and they keep the difference? And if I kept the truck long enough before the incident I've already paid for the truck including gap loss. So...insurance is a contract where I promise to give the company BOTH my truck and my money to satisfy a law they lobbied for, forcing me into that contract to protect THIER interest. A contract only they benefit from purely from vehicle damages. Liability losses paid out of the premium alone make insurance a nice, never get your hands dirty 100% profit salvage side business. In the case they actually settle for repair they limit their liability and violate your half of the 'good faith' expectation to be made whole by squeezing the shop for hours and force use of substandard part, materials and results. Am I getting that right? Really, the deer caused irreparable damage? I see.
  12. Yes it will I dents in the floor are your only concern.
  13. Magnetic shock system? Forget I spoke. Sorry missed that. Ops......
  14. V4 mode

    LOVE the belt comment....ROTFLMAO. I remember these sorts of concerns when hydraulic lifters fist came into the picture. Then the roof came off with roller tappets and an atomic blast was felt with hydro-rollers introduction. That was Race Only with no place in a grocery getter. We should have stopped with chilled white iron mushroom flat tappet systems! All these others are WAY to complicated. To heavy. Require to much spring pressure. Beats seats out. Valve/rocker breakers. To many moving parts. To many ways to fail. Lord my father and his brothers and brother-in-laws would sit around Uncle Bob's kitchen table and go to war over it. Should have heard my Dad when I bought my first Honda VVT..... C'mon guys, you remember those battles....You likely participated in a few yourself. Tell ya what. IF and it's a BIG if; I ever decide to disable my AFM it will be with a cam and lifter kit at rebuild time. IF complexity is the reason to disable it, then just eliminate it altogether. K.I.S.S. Just say' n. A Range doesn't simplify anything. Just removes opportunity for ONE failure mode. If as SS502 says, it might be a 'material issue'.... I just might at rebuild time. Hope they have something better than plastic guide trays by then, eh? Hey, anyone up for a Nova 396 and a Powerglide? There's simple. (and fun)
  15. Quantum Leaps

    Not liking something for yourself is a preference, yes? I get that and I respect that. I agree a world in one color would be uninteresting indeed. What I don't respect are those that don't like something and intentionally hinder the search for the repair solution the OP is seeking. Confusing the fellow with half truths and out right lies or unsolicited opinion delivered as gospel. I'm aware of your stand on several issues and your reasons but I don't recall you ever misleading anyone into thinking there is no 'fix' solution when there clearly is in an attempt to persuade them to take your view. I've never heard you dress someone down for liking a feature you don't. I've never heard you lie to get your way. What I have heard you do is offer practical advise to assist someone to the solution they seek even if you disagree with the basic concept, and THAT is as it should be. Your input is always appreciated. Not just by me. I expect finding a forum of 170,000 just like you would be to much to ask.

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