Grumpy Bear

You don't want to become predictable now, do you?

I reported it. Your welcome.

How did all that extra get added? AI bot!

10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O.

286,740 Mile Services 8/6/2026 New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system. New exhaust system from cat back. New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies. Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes. 4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt. Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles. Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand. AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle. He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements. Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss. Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again. Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing. This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it?

Can it still be Assembled I? Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War. That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago. Give this a look: [Anton Parr] What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days. Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon. This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units? After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt. This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad. So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr] Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?) There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F. Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy. In Part II I'll work the AW package.

In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did. We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor. I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro. The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one. Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them.

I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.

That dog don't hunt. First, a 2025 with 12K on the clock AND idled for a year nonstop is false on it's face; this is 2026. You can do one or the other but not both. Second, ENGINE HOURS are absolutely available. The rest is third grade math. Micky Mouse scanner he got out of a box of Cracker Jacks OR an ID10T error. Third, if they ran it out of oil "Several times" that motor is boned on the first hit. Does this guy think piling higher makes it stink less?

Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg. Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920. Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner. That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. You go sir.

In their own words: https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/ [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation). Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive. High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating. Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use. To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives. [End Quote] So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad. And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's. How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded? The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME. I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model.

Here's the benchmark

BTW, finally got on BITOG. Rebooting my PC gets me in every time. LOL.

Well, how did it go?

When you have one, you have to work with what you have not what you wish you had. Ring thickness on these beast is 1.2 mm, 1.5 mm, 2.0 mm. Second ring is a taper faced unit. Top a PVD coated unit. Don't know the alloy. Oil can not be to clean.