davester

They flash really quickly compared with the regular flashing frequency.

It could, or at least contribute significantly to it, as it doesn't take a lot of clean air to really throw off the reading, and then the ecm will just start dumping in fuel because it's reading that the engine is too lean. And if the air leak isn't big enough to cause the ecm to hit the fuel trim limits, it won't generate a code, you just wind up running the engine really rich all the time.

Do these codes reappear after you clear them?

You might try the cheap/easy check, and find the plug to the harness that was replaced, unplug it, and check that the guy actually replaced the harness (ie, one side going under the intake manifold looks brand new), and maybe spray some electrical contact cleaner in the plug from the main harness and plug it together again. You could also have a bad new sensor (it happens, even something like dropping the sensor on concrete can make it fail). It could also have been installed incorrectly (over/under torqued possibly), or the plug on the sensor possibly came off. I would also recommend ACDelco electrical bits, they seem to work better than 3rd party bits. To really diagnose what's going on, you need something like an oscilloscope or high-end scanner, to check the signal the knock sensors are putting out

That's a pretty crappy dealer. It takes less than a minute to hook up a code reader and clear codes, if it was something as simple as disconnecting the battery that caused them.

also check for exhaust leaks ahead of the O2 sensors. The exhaust can suck in clean air, and it fools the O2 sensors into thinking the engine is running lean, so the ECM increases how much fuel is put in. Broken off bolts in the the exhaust manifolds is a common cause of this, but it can also be the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe gasket as well.

It may rattle, or possibly eventually come out on it's own, and be found by someone climbing into your truck barefoot.

How do the brakes feel? They also feel good (ie, have a decent power assist)? If so (brakes have power assist, and you have power assist turning right), I would guess somethings up with the steering gear.

Say hello to a breaker bar, perhaps with a cheater bar extension...

There's a tag on the transmission which indicates what year it is, if they swapped it out, it's possible the tag will be for a different year than it should be. But really, all you can do is file a police report that they stole parts from your truck.

You are going to have to buy a higher-end inverter, and then get very thick cables to hook it up to your battery, and then only use it with the engine running at a good speed. A leaf blower like you describe will need all the power for a home circuit, which is about 1500W. 1500W. For the inverter to provide that 1500W, from the trucks 12VDC, it needs at least 125A (if not more, because of losses converting to A/C). Depending on what alternator your truck has, this may exceed it's capacity (so, just using it, it will drain your battery, even with your engine running at a good clip so the alternator is fully working). It will likely be cheaper to buy a small gas leaf blower.

I'm happy with the RS9000s on my '04 sierra 3500 cab&chassis. It's a heavy truck that rides pretty stiff, and they've made a noticeable difference in getting the rear to ride a little softer and stop bouncing off the overload springs

Thanks for posting what your fix was. That kind of problem is hard to figure out.

I've got a trailer with a bunch of equipment that goes into the garage, truck sits just in front of garage door.

Spending an extra $20 for the Motive setup means: 1) less wasted fluid, as the only air bubbles you see are ones from the brake system, it doesn't give a false-negative (ie, sucking air in around the bleeder screw, so bubbles still show even if brake system is fully bled) 2) no need to have a second person for the double-check phase (because there is no double-check phase). Your setup means you can't be sure air is out of the system, so you still need to manually bleed it. Or you just go "hope it's done". Note, this is not to criticize you, your review, but to give someone reading this thread an idea of the tradeoffs between the two methods (pressure vs vacuum), so they can decide if the extra couple bucks for the pressure setup vs the extra effort & brake fluid needed with a vacuum setup.