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About davester

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  1. is there power on both side of the LT fuse (there are little posts on the fuse where you can put the tester leads)? or, if all the left side turn lights flash when you turn on the hazards (as well as all the right side ones), then I would consider the turn signal switch or the wiring harness to the turn signal switch has failed (ie, the problem is between the lever on the steering column and the BCM). Oh yeah, I would suggest testing before throwing parts at it. For something like this, something like the Autel PowerScan PS100 circuit tester would work well for finding where the problem is... Well, and also having the wiring diagram for the truck so you know what wires go where...
  2. read codes from the truck? you might be able to use "the paperclip trick" to read codes from the truck (you short two pins together on the odb connector and a light on the dash flashes to indicate the code) [i'm not sure if your truck supports that, or if it needs a proper code reader]. is the fluid level high enough (as it, it reachs the cold level with the engine running)? past that, I don't know. when I rebuilt my 4l80e, it worked right afterwards
  3. that could possibly be from the a/c drain tube, depending on where it's located and what it drains onto...
  4. for my '04 sierra, the end pieces that the rod goes into have a plastic piece that acts as both a bushing (it covers the inside of the hole that the rod goes through), as well as acts as the retaining clip (it has a plastic piece that snaps onto the rod). Maybe the plastic piece is either missing or broken/damaged, as on my truck, there is no chance of them coming off. You just put the rod through the hole, then rotate the plastic piece so the clip snaps onto the rod and done.
  5. look on rockauto and compare part numbers.
  6. Just fyi, my '04 full-service manual has: 177 ft/lbs for the hub nut (your big axle nut) 58 ft/lbs for inboard flange bolts (cv flange to front diff stub axle) lugs 140 ft/lbs 15 ft/lbs front shock upper nut (tennon nut) 18 ft/lbs shock to lca 2wd 59 ft/lbs shock to lca 4wd 70 ft/lbs rear shock nuts so your numbers are pretty much in the ballpark, the cv to axle stubs are a bit light...
  7. all those sites I list include prices for either the paper version or for an online subscription...you just need to select what vehicle you want it for...
  8. You are doing the swap to get more power on the truck, and you mention also putting in a bigger cam & headers (so even more power than a stock 6.0). GM put the 4l80e behind the 6.0 to handle it's power. I would expect problems down the road if you kept the 4l60e. I wouldn't expect the transfer case to be a problem in 2wd, maybe if you use it hard in 4wd.
  9. I'm happy with the Rancho RS9000 adjustable shocks on my truck. I don't adjust them based on load, just when I first installed them to make it ride ok (it has a really stiff rear spring pack). They weren't much more than a non-adjustable shock, and I figured it was better than just hoping however a non-adjustable shock worked, would work ok for my application.
  10. shop manual (depending on year) you can get in paper version from helminc.com, or amazon/ebay, or an online subscription to it from alldatadiy.com, or other websites. paper version isn't cheap, online version is a lot cheaper. It takes a year or two before they are available (ie, you won't get the 2020 full-service manual for a whijle).
  11. by line do you mean the hose between the hard line and the caliper?
  12. I don't know if the 1500's with the 6.0 still got the NP261 "base" transfer case, but the 2500's and up (with the 6.0) got the NP261HD (slightly beefier), I would expect you'll need to figure out how to rewire the truck for the 4l80e (may just be a harness swap), as well as work out how to reprogram the ecm/tcm to work with the new engine & transmission.
  13. It's my understanding it's the same as the earlier port injected trucks, 60 psi +- a couple psi. It should go to that pressure with key on, and remain at that pressure once the engine is started, and when the engine is accelerated. It should also stay at that pressure for some time after the engine is turned off, but I don't recall at this moment how long it should take to drop X psi. The pressure can drop briefly as the engine is changing speeds, but should quickly return to full pressure.
  14. um, is there supposed to be some kind of "message" in your post?
  15. the rear brake line as it runs along the frame over the fuel tank can also rust out, but it's more difficult to see there. fuel lines as well. I'm happy with my '04, and even with the poor mileage (just under 10 mpg) and various parts needing replacement, it's still way cheaper than having any payments. Even if the engine blows, I'd replace it rather than buy a newer one with payments, and a new one is just a crazy amount of money and I'm over the "must have a shiny new bauble" thing...
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