davester

not what the thread is about. it's about leaving the truck running when it's parked, not about when you stop at a light while driving...

That seems to be normal now, fewer zerks, and they don't get any more grease than whatever they got when the part was manufactured... It's not that someone didn't do their job, but rather, the job was deemed to be completed when the part was made.

does the actuator move in/out when you shift between 2wd and 4wd?

thanks for coming back and posting what the fix was.

first thing I would suggest is physically disconnecting the main power and ground connections between the battery, engine and starter, cleaning both sides of each connection, then reconnecting them.

what truck do you have? If it's a more recent (around 2000 or newer), the trucks computer controls how the alternator works.

Hah. You've switched back to having no plans to get the vaccine, after posting you're just waiting until it's your turn, then deciding. And spreading more FUD. Totally not a surprise.

That looks the same as another thread, but with a much better pic. Given that there aren't that many threads sticking out, and that they are tapered at the end, most likely the casting is threaded and there is no missing nut.

Maybe check the exhaust manifold/exhaust pipe for missing bolts or leaking connections ahead of the O2 sensor? With my LQ4, it's common for the manifold bolts to break off, and on my truck, a number did and the exhaust would draw air in, making the O2 sensors read lean.

....great cliffhanger...

For my truck, they are: Transmission 25 ft/lbs 16mm socket Dex-VI Rear axle: 24ft/lbs 15mm 75w90syn Front axle: 24 ft/lbs 15mm 75w90syn Transfer case: 15 ft/lbs 18mm Dex-III Oil pan: 18 ft/lbs 15mm 5w30syn New trucks are likely in the same range.

Since you have the Duramax, GM automatically puts in dual batteries, hooked in parallel, to provide the power needed to start the engine. Neither is on an isolator. The dual alternators are to provide more power while the engine is running, for, say, running a plow, a more powerful stereo system, charging rv batteries up, running a more powerful inverter, etc.

13.6V? A charged battery is 12.6V, it can be slightly over that for awhile after it's been on a charger. If there is 13.5V across the battery terminals of a 12V car battery, there's an external charger applying power to it.

Bash74, from re-reading your posts, I realize you are not an anti-vaxxer. Instead, you are just pushing FUD about the vaccine, without spending the time to even bother knowing how to argue that POV. You are one of a strain of covid-deniers, and currently the vogue thing for them to do is to spread FUD about the covid vaccine. Unfortunately, you've made it clear you don't believe any of the BS you are pushing. Someone who posts this: where you start with a baseless slur of their vaccine testing, then follow on with basic anti-vaxxer "questions" that you don't know how to argue, but then later on post this: A person willing to take the vaccine when it's their turn, isn't a person that posts that earlier stuff. One or the other is a lie. And, IMHO, both are. And now you are trying to assert things on me which I haven't claimed, such as being "anti-freedom", "anti-choice", blah blah blah, as none of my posts even suggest that everyone must be vaccinated, even against their will. You've been caught on this forum, good luck doing this again on the next one. Maybe spend some more time figuring out a better strategy for how you push this FUD the next time...

Bog standard anti-vaxxer, confusing taking a vaccine on faith, and taking a vaccine on blind faith without able to see the data behind it. You present it as people having to take it based on the second, when they choose to take it based on the first.