davester

You'll need to find an extended cab, 8' box frame, at least from a 2500,3500 GMT800. It'll need to be a 4wd frame if your truck has 4wd. reg, extended cab and crew cabs all have different body mount locations. I have no idea if/how the frames varied over time, or if they are different between gm & chev. From replacing body panels on my '04, I've found that earlier parts may have missing holes, or braces, or welded on nuts, that the parts that came with my truck have & used, and that newer parts may have/use holes/braces/welded on nuts that were used on newer trucks, but were not used on my truck, but the part was backwards comnpatible (so if there was something used on my truck, it was present on newer parts, even if the truck they were originally from didn't use it). You might hit up a dealer, or online used parts places, to see what they say about frame compatibility.

Depending on what exactly you are replacing, you may wish to stick with 2500/3500 series w the 2" body lift (IDK if yours has it, it probably does if it's an 2500HD). The external panels are mostly the same, bumper and grille trim is different to account for the body lift, and I know radiator grille support is different, but other bits could be different as well. And from swapping various body panels on my '04, it's easier if you stick to stuff from the same year or newer, as they seem to have made the panels backwards compatible (so if a hole was in spot X in an '01, it'll be there for following years, but newer stuff may have holes/welded nuts/extra braces that older parts didn't). And there was a significant split around '02' or '03, where GM changed all the computers and wiring harnesses, so there may be other things you may encounter doing a full body swap to a newer body.

I haven't had a problem like this, but I would suggest getting a knockoff MDI unit (usb-obdii passthrough device), and use it with Tech2Win on a windows laptop, to do this work. It's the dealer-level solution, and a LOT cheaper than $1400... I bought one from here https://www.chinacardiags.com along w Tech2Win and it works great with my '12 Silverado 3500 (haven't needed to use it w my '04 yet). It's advertised on the site as an MDI 2, but it's an MDI 1 in an MDI2 housing. But, it uses the oem Bosch driver and firmware, so it has good, long term support by the oem manufacturer, and it can do all the diagnostic tasks and access all the computers in the truck. Edit: As well, w a subscription to ACDelcoTDS (relatively cheap), you can also reprogram all the computers and perform various dealer-level tasks, such as getting a vin-locked radio to work w your truck. Tech2Win works up to around '13 for trucks, then GM switched to GDS2 diagnostic software (which also works with the MDI unit) for newer vehicles (the exact cutoff year various w the vehicle, as GM didn't switch all the vehicles over at the same time).

If you gave them the VIN for your truck, I suppose they may be able to cut the blank for your specific vehicle, but otherwise, it would be a fluke if it worked for your truck (but it is possible, as there are reports of people going to the wrong vehicle in parking lots, and using their key to open/start the vehicle, only to find out later it's the wrong one).

It's vin-locked, so you can't "borrow" it. You'll need to buy it for yourself.

Yeah, I would start with the pcv system. My '04 3500/6.0 didn't have a old-school rattling replaceable pcv valve, but a pressed in fixed orific one (which I found out after wrecking it getting it out). You might: -add a catch can -pull off the valve cover, make sure the port is clean and that the internal baffle is clean and the holes in it aren't plugged

The lights work differently, the '11 setup assumes the turn/stop lights are the same filament, while the '06 electrical system has them separate. Just hooking the wires together will screw up the system. You might be able to do something w diodes, to prevent backfeeding the different circuits, but IDK how well that would work.

It's one of those things where you only find out if you went too far, in a circumstance where you really really wish you hadn't done the mod.

From what I can tell, the screen is only for engines with afm/dfm

maybe describe when/how you want use the 2nd battery, and when/how you want the battery to be charged?

The process basically links the SIR module with the BCM, perhaps with some programming/configuration mixed in (as different vehicles will have different sensors/air bag systems). From what I can tell, the GMT900's have the computers more tightly linked together, so you can't mix & match them like you can w GMT800 modules. It's possible the module is bad, but you probably won't know until it's linked to the bcm. It's also possible there are wiring and/or connector problems (as you mentioned there was a bunch of water around it).

Why would you expect GM and/or their dealers/salesmen to list all the stuff they used to include w vehicles, but no longer do? NOBODY does that. And nobody in their right mind expects them do to that. That would be like giving the customer a nice long list of reasons to not buy the vehicle. And it's not like they can read your mind to know you are interested in HD radio, so they can tell you it's not there without you asking. As for not knowing about it, after you asked them, well, that's not on GM, that's on the sales guy. Some take pride in their work, and try to learn about the vehicles and what's changed, some will say IDK, but I'll find out for you, some will lie, and some will will tell you to tell you that you have to find that out from someone else. You have to decide whether or not to continue with that salesman and/or dealer, depending on their answer...

I just got grade 10.9 flange head bolts when I did my exhaust manifold bolts. If you can't get that back bolt out, you might consider getting a clamp to hold the manifold in place. The clamp bolts to the head using existing, unused threaded holes, and then you install a bolt that presses against the manifo to hold it again the head. There are 2 different clamps available, depending on which end of the head it mounts on.

The driver's side axle (that the cv shaft bolts to) definitely does (or at least should have) a retaining clip inside the diff. If it's sticking out that 1/2" or so, then I would guess whoever previously worked that, to say, replace the axle seal or bearing, didn't fully reinstall the axle. It's also possible the stub axle or retaining clip has failed in some way, allowing the axle to come out a bit. I would remove the cv shaft, and try pushing the axle in (lifting that corner of the truck so gear oil doesn't run out). If it just slides in all the way easily, and can also be pulled out again, then look at the end of the stub axle for the groove the clip would go into. If that looks ok, then the clip probably has failed. But, it should take a good blow to get the axle in all the way, as you have to force the axle to expand the c-clip to on over the axle, then it slides in relatively easily the rest of the say. Once fully inserted, the c-clip should be in that groove, and you should not be able to pull the axle out again by hand.

From doing this conversion myself with my '04 Sierra 3500, from talking with multiple dealers, those 2 bushings are not considered servicable by GM, as they are bonded to the frame. GM's idea is that you buy a new frame if those bushings need replacement. When I did the job, I got the bushings out of my parts truck by using a 1/4" bit in an electric drill, and drilling right at the edge between the bushing and the metal tube it's in. Go all the way through to the other side, then keep the drill spinning, and allow it to walk all the way around the bushing. Once all the way around, pull the drill out and push the bushing through. Note, the tube and bushing is slightly tapered. I did this about 8 years ago, and they've stayed in place and work fine in their new home. Since then, I recall coming across some company which made urethane or poly bushings for these things, but IDR the company name.