Given that you were initially told it was already at Kent, Washington holding lot, and now it was pulled for inspection from the assembly line, I wouldn't believe what the dealer was saying anymore. I would try to get the VIN from the dealer, then contact GM directly on the vehicles status.
3. ABS (antilock braking) is not airbags(SRS is the acronym that I've seen for airbag system). It's ground is on the wing off the frame under the driver's side door, and the ABS computer is just on the other side of the frame. All the brake lines go to it. I don't know where the ABS computer is, but it's probably in the cab somewhere. 4. The bcm is in the cab, you remove the lower dash panels around the steering column, and you'll see 4 plugs going into a box, that's the bcm. 5. Depending on the code, it will clear itself immediately the next key-on, if the problem is fixed, or it will take a number of key cycles to do it, or it will take until conditions are right for a specific system test to run. 6. Well, it's difficult to figure out problems with no codes (and not always easy with codes). It's a lot of looking around, testing without anything to give you a hint as to what the problem is. But, given that this problem only happened after the truck sat for 3 months, I would start with getting the battery load-tested, then cleaning the power & ground cables between the battery, engine and starter.
IMHO, the supercharger/headers/intake/exhaust = you've used up a bunch of the drivetrains life, which reduces the trucks value. Now, a kid who doesn't know any better, and wants a hopped up truck to burn up tires with until the engine and/or transmission goes, that person might go for your truck..
You may wish to disregard information about how to fix a gas engine, as mentioned in the previous post. I don't personally know much about the Duramax's, dieselplace.com has a bunch of people that seem to be reasonably knowledgeable and helpful with them...
You might try disconnecting the battery cables, then touching the two battery cables together, charging/testing the battery that it is up to 12.6V or so, then reconnecting the battery cables and trying again. And who did the code check, as the air bag light being on pretty much means a code being generated... Or find and clean the power and ground connections for the abs computer, but you should do this VERY carefully, as doing the wrong thing with the air bag system may inadvertently set it off.
From another forum I visit (dieselplace), some people there think that the original pads last a really long time (like 150+K), but the replacement OEM pads only seemed go maybe 1/2 that....they were using GMT800 trucks IIRC...
If the O2 sensors aren't working right, you will definitely be using more fuel than if the O2 sensors (and the rest of the engine) are working . Most likely, you'll be running the default open-loop table, which will be richer than the tables used for closed-loop mode. No, haven't had anything like what you describe.
I would suggest getting the tcm checked for codes (as the CEL won't necessarily come on for this problem). You'll need to use something other than a basic odbii code reader, as they only get codes from the ecm.
unscrew the actuator from the front diff, plug it in, then shift between 2wd and 4wd, to verify that the actuator extends/retracts. If it does, then something is busted in the front diff itself. If it doesn't (and at this point, I would plug in the old actuator and see if that works), then the actuator is defective, there's a electrical problem (fuse/short/break), or the 4wd sensor in the transfer case is defective).
For my truck, when the rods for the manual lock/unlock weren't sliding easily (P.O. bent them slightly), the power lock would try to lock, then unlock right away (both using the power lock button or the fob). I think it also does it if the door is only partially closed, sometimes it gets just right and does this lock/unlock thing.
When I installed my Pioneer AVH4000NEX in my truck, I used the RP3-GM11 wiring harness, which worked just fine and provided enough power (10A IIRC) for the radio without needing to run a separate relay/power wire from the battery. I did screw up and briefly shorted the power wire during testing when the connections weren't wrapped up, and burned a trace on the power circuit board, and after fixing that, it's been working fine for the past 4 years or so. The wiring harness provides both continuous power to retain radio settings, and the main power properly using RAP, and your harness should do the same, you shouldn't need to run any other power wires. It (at least from what I could tell) responds to the trucks computer commands about RAP, and turns a relay on/off to match for providing power to the radio.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 130 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,868 Guests (See full list)
- Steven York
- SILVER SLED
- 1A Auto Parts
- Landon Wingate
- Sin City Trail Boss
- Dock Rocker
- Arturo G
- Luis Garcia
- Sergio Quiroz
- 14 Silvy
- f8l vnm
- Wayne Leake
- Scott P
- Mike Barber
- KEEPER OF SECRETS