davester

....just fyi, that is a 7 year old post (when this thread started), and that user hasn't logged into the site in 4 years. You aren't going to get a response from that user. And did you read through the thread for how other people fixed their similar problems?

I don't think your gas truck w have an Allison. I would suggest first figuring out exactly what transmission your truck does have, perhaps by talking to your dealer for a build sheet, googling for it, and/or figuring out where your rpo code list is on your truck, and then decoding them (as within the list is the code for what transmission you have).

3 year old thread, and the o.p. hasn't logged into the site in a year and a half. you are unlikely to get a response from that user.

Possibly. You could perhaps look at the cam to see if there is metal stuck to it, interfering with getting a good reading. You can also look at the signal being generated by the sensor, while cranking the engine, to see if the signal is getting to the ecu pin.

Isn't the cam signal also different between gen 3 and 4?

That's super-weird, as they are all independent from each other. They don't share the same power or grounds, or the same circuitry to run the displays. If they all stopped working at the same time (ie, turn off the truck one day and they were working, and start it the next day and they aren't), I would go for checking the battery and fuse box.

You'll at least still need the throttle body and fuel rails from the '00 engine, as the '04 uses a different setup. Transmission probably just swaps in, but I'm not 100% sure of that (assuming it's already a 2wd/4wd version to match the truck). If the transmission isn't the same "wd' type, you have to completely disassemble the transmission to swap the output shaft, as it's almost the 1st part that is installed when assembling the transmission.

...7 year old thread, and the user hasn't logged into the site since a couple days after making the post. You aren't going to get a response from that user. From reading the issue the o.p. had, it sounds very specific to that specific vehicle (ie, rodents attacking electrical wiring). While some of the symptoms may match with what is happening to your vehicle, the specific cause and/or location of the problem are unlikely to be the same. I would suggest signing up to a subscription for the full service manual at a site like alldatadiy.com or https://www.eautorepair.net/ and going through it's diagnostic procedures. Besides diagnostic procedures, it also has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts, ground and power locations, harness paths.

Yes, injectors will be much faster than every 3 seconds. I would suggest using a mechanics stethoscope and finding the source of the ticking yourself.

Aftermarket support = going to a transmission shop instead, and getting a rebuilt transmission and torque converter (or a new, aftermarket torque converter), for way less money than the 2 firstborn children you need to give to GM. And the person you talked to, may have been have meant to be talking about the revised tranmission thermostat GM put out, which opens at a lower temp to keep the trans a bit cooler. I think it applies to your 2016, but IDK for sure what the range of vehicles it applies to. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf

You'll need to find an extended cab, 8' box frame, at least from a 2500,3500 GMT800. It'll need to be a 4wd frame if your truck has 4wd. reg, extended cab and crew cabs all have different body mount locations. I have no idea if/how the frames varied over time, or if they are different between gm & chev. From replacing body panels on my '04, I've found that earlier parts may have missing holes, or braces, or welded on nuts, that the parts that came with my truck have & used, and that newer parts may have/use holes/braces/welded on nuts that were used on newer trucks, but were not used on my truck, but the part was backwards comnpatible (so if there was something used on my truck, it was present on newer parts, even if the truck they were originally from didn't use it). You might hit up a dealer, or online used parts places, to see what they say about frame compatibility.

Depending on what exactly you are replacing, you may wish to stick with 2500/3500 series w the 2" body lift (IDK if yours has it, it probably does if it's an 2500HD). The external panels are mostly the same, bumper and grille trim is different to account for the body lift, and I know radiator grille support is different, but other bits could be different as well. And from swapping various body panels on my '04, it's easier if you stick to stuff from the same year or newer, as they seem to have made the panels backwards compatible (so if a hole was in spot X in an '01, it'll be there for following years, but newer stuff may have holes/welded nuts/extra braces that older parts didn't). And there was a significant split around '02' or '03, where GM changed all the computers and wiring harnesses, so there may be other things you may encounter doing a full body swap to a newer body.

I haven't had a problem like this, but I would suggest getting a knockoff MDI unit (usb-obdii passthrough device), and use it with Tech2Win on a windows laptop, to do this work. It's the dealer-level solution, and a LOT cheaper than $1400... I bought one from here https://www.chinacardiags.com along w Tech2Win and it works great with my '12 Silverado 3500 (haven't needed to use it w my '04 yet). It's advertised on the site as an MDI 2, but it's an MDI 1 in an MDI2 housing. But, it uses the oem Bosch driver and firmware, so it has good, long term support by the oem manufacturer, and it can do all the diagnostic tasks and access all the computers in the truck. Edit: As well, w a subscription to ACDelcoTDS (relatively cheap), you can also reprogram all the computers and perform various dealer-level tasks, such as getting a vin-locked radio to work w your truck. Tech2Win works up to around '13 for trucks, then GM switched to GDS2 diagnostic software (which also works with the MDI unit) for newer vehicles (the exact cutoff year various w the vehicle, as GM didn't switch all the vehicles over at the same time).

If you gave them the VIN for your truck, I suppose they may be able to cut the blank for your specific vehicle, but otherwise, it would be a fluke if it worked for your truck (but it is possible, as there are reports of people going to the wrong vehicle in parking lots, and using their key to open/start the vehicle, only to find out later it's the wrong one).

It's vin-locked, so you can't "borrow" it. You'll need to buy it for yourself.