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tjonesdfw

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  • Location
    DFW Texas
  • Drives
    2021 Sierra 5.3, 2024 Yukon 6.2

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  1. Not based on the new photos I'm seeing. Car and Driver posted additional photos that shows an auto stop start button left of the steering wheel.
  2. Car and Driver is reporting wireless CarPlay WILL remain, and they posted several additional photos, including a left knee shot, but the only hard buttons there are e-brake, auto start stop, tailgate and cargo light. Also definitely looks like High Country and ZR2 get micro fiber on the center of the console lid and the ZR2 possibly also on the seats.
  3. I'm also waiting to see if they confirm Apple CarPlay, because I'm not interested in subscription fees just to use the hardware I already purchased. In closeups it looks like it gets the Colorado/Canyon center screen based headlight controls which I despise. They also appear to lose all the hard switches for functions like seat heating and cooling, parking sensors, lane control, traction control, etc. which means they're all screen/menu based, so verdict is out on how well those will work with gloves or wet/dirty hands. Admittedly they don't show the left knee area of the dash, but I don't see hard switches for locker control on the ZR2, and the "mode" switch appears to eliminate the rotary dial with a quick way to access tow/haul. My 2021 has had multiple screen failures and at times the screen just locks up, goes black, or reboots while driving even after replacement, so loosing the ability to access many of these functions, especially lighting control would be pretty frustrating. There aren't enough photos or detailed trim details other than one mention of "available microfiber trim" to confirm, but the use of microfiber on the seats and or center console is a deal killer for me. Just because you drive a ZR2 or High Country, doesn't mean you don't work out of it, and that material is difficult at best to keep clean and looking decent. Lexus and several other brands are using it on seats, dash, and door panels now, I assume as a cost and weight saving measure, and it looks horrible 1-2 years into ownership. I see what appears to be piano black on the doors and center console in some photos, which also has no place in ANY vehicle in my opinion because it mars and scratches too easily, especially for a truck. Will be interesting to see what GMC comes out with when the Sierra is released as far as materials go.
  4. I already own the 2021 Sierra Denali I'm debating taking well past 100,000. Shoulda, coulda, woulda bought a 2020 Tundra with the 5.7 instead of this if not for Covid era dealer shenanigans. Overall disappointed with the LONG list of non maintenance repairs this truck has required.... thank God for a 7 year 100K GM extended warranty that MORE than paid for itself. I find myself missing the reliability of my '97 GMT400 with the 5.0 Vortec that only seemed to eat the occasional alternator that I could replace in the NAPA parking lot.
  5. Definitely monitoring the suspension. Was surprised a pavement pounder Denali with stock tires ate lower ball joints at 65K. The rear leaf spring isolator pads have also all been replaced TWICE!. Questioning wheel bearings, input output seals, coolant and oil hoses, and how long the electric adaptive ride control shocks will hang in there... already investigating the kits that eliminate those so I can use regular shocks without triggering a warning light. U-joints are on the monitor list as I already would have replaced them on an older truck. I think oner front CV is starting to make some minor noise, so that's the next repair. Just did the serpentine belt again when replacing a leaking radiator, and everything on the accessory drive looked good, but I wonder how much longer the water pump and other items will last. Battery gets replaced every 2.5 years regardless of how it tests. Otherwise everything in the severe maintenance schedule has been done religiously, along with a TON of other warranty repairs.
  6. I am just trying to ascertain what common issues creep up over 100,000 miles on this generation of truck. I don't need any dealer help, and I'm well aware that some people don't consider 100,000 miles to be "high mileage," and I'm also aware that older generations of trucks had less major issues over 100,000 miles. The GM maintenance guide only goes to 150,000 miles and only references basic maintenance, not proactive replacement of things like gaskets, seals, bearings, etc. In my limited experience, I know multiple people who have lost transmissions and lifters shortly after 100,000 miles, so I was hoping I might get a consensus here from a larger sample of people. When driving nearly 20,000 miles a year, often in very remote areas, I personally prefer to be proactive.
  7. I'm approaching 100,000 miles on my '21 with a 5.3, and despite all the electrical gremlins, ball joints/lower control arms that only lasted 65K miles, and a bad radiator.... the motor and transmission are still going strong. What are the common issues other than transmission and lifters people are seeing around 100K and up? Do wheel bearings and seals start failing, are the screens in the dash going to self destruct after so many years, etc.? Contemplating whether its worth keeping the devil I do know vs a devil I don't, especially considering the '27s are still not out. Ideally I'd usually wait a year or two after a re-design to purchase. Are there preventative maintenance procedures like replacing the torque converter, rebuilding the 10 speed, hoses, seals, bearings, and or a true DOD delete that would buy me another year or two of reliability with this heap? Driving 15-20K miles a year at the moment and need it to be as reliable as possible. I see some guys with over 150,000 doing just fine, and others have had transmissions and lifters go within months of getting to 100,000.
  8. Pretty pathetic durability for ball joints on a half ton truck if you ask me. I spend most days on a smooth tollway or interstate, and spent very little time on gravel and chip and seal roads before mine failed. Then to have to replace the arms because they didn't make the ball joint serviceable is just icing on the cake.
  9. I had the lower ball joints go bad before I hit 65,000 miles on a stock height, stock tire and wheel, no spacer, '21 Denali 4x4 that's almost 100% pavement driven. I think they billed my extended warranty about $3,600 for the repair, which was nuts. I also find it crazy that GM has dealers replace the entire lower control arm instead of having a more serviceable ball joint mount.
  10. The waterfall sound is typically just created by air pockets in the heater core, cased by low coolant, not a leak inside the cab. From what I’ve seen, most of these radiators fail at the plastic end caps and seams, so check there first.
  11. Ended up being a seep in the stupid plastic end cap on the radiator, so new radiator it is. 4 years and 70,000 miles and she's already needed 4 camera modules, multiple cameras and wiring harnesses, a new rear sliding window, ball joints and now a radiator among various other little items... not looking forward to the next year or two at this rate.
  12. Back to another dealer next week with the same issue again... waterfall sound at startup, about an inch low in the tank, and the smell of coolant around the front of the truck every time I stop. Hoping this new dealer properly diagnoses, because in my mind there has to be a small leak somewhere.
  13. More front biased than rear. Parking brake is always disengaged.
  14. Been down this road before too and seems it repeats itself every 12 months or so. The first time the dealer pressure tested it twice... the first time it leaked down, and the second time it held, so they just topped it off and sent me on my way. Sending it back to the dealer this week for them to do the same since I'm under an extended warranty, but its down about an inch again and the waterfall sound in the dash at startup is back. Every time I stop and get out, you can smell antifreeze around the front end, but there's no visible signs of a leak.
  15. Every morning immediately after the first cold start of the day, and after putting the truck in gear and letting fully off the brake, I get about 3 or 4 loud rotational rubbing metallic humming sounds that closely match ground speed, i.e. one sound per complete tire revolution. It initially sounded like a brake shield rubbing, but have checked those, and it doesn't make sense that the noise stops after the initial roll off and or the truck is warmed up. Truck is a '21 1500 4x4, and it makes the same sound whether in 2x4 or Auto. Bearings, CV joint, transmission/transfer case, any thoughts?
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