tjonesdfw

Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles!

According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor. Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles. For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today. We’ll see if this fixes the issue.

5.3 Sierra with approximately 80,000 miles had a radiator replacement about 6 months ago which required pulling the AC condenser and a vacuum and recharge on the system. AC cooled fine until about a month ago, when it would suddenly start blowing lukewarm air for 5 minutes at a time at various points throughout the day, then suddenly resume cooling again. Sometimes its when stopped at an intersection and other times while moving. I've read about the internal electronics in the compressor going bad on these trucks and not cycling properly, but sounds like many dealers just chase AC issues with a parts cannon. Also wondering if they charged it correctly when the radiator was replaced. Is there an easy way to see if these electronically driven compressors are engaging properly, or to check for freeze up, etc.? Dealer usually wont do much unless they can replicate or I can show them a video of what's going on.

Apparently it doesn't trigger a fault, at least according to my dealer, but in one month its gone from once or twice a week to several times a day, so you can catch it on video and its likely to be seen by the dealer. I've heard some have replaced only the switch, yet others have required full shifter assembly replacement to the tune of $900+?

Agreed, it definitely appears to follow the EV motif, especially because it appears to follow the rockers on the Sierra too.... but has to be a cost saving measure as well. Between rocks and bugs and driving 20K+ a year on Texas highways, I can keep the painted front ends looking decent with PPF and a thorough periodic cleaning, but the unpainted plastic cant be coated, or cleaned up well. The same plastic underneath the bumpers on all our current generation trucks is beat to hell after 2 years or less on the road.

Whoever greenlighted the work truck matte black front bumpers on every trim but the AT4X should be fired! I was hoping that was an AI mistake, but just realized they were on every model of the 2027 Silverado too. Some parts of the interior do look premium, but the Denali Ultimate dashboard looks like an afterthought. At least they appear to have lost the microfiber the high end Silverado models showed, but the '27 High Country dash looks better than the Denali.

Periodically having a rear passenger door that wont open from the outside. Thought it was the lock mechanism so toggled the locks and door was still stuck. Finally pulled pretty hard on the handle and got it to open, but felt like it wasn't fully unlatching or was suctioned shut, despite other doors and windows being open at the time. The next time it happened, it took me pushing from the inside to get the door to open. Any suggestions?

Are there any conditions that you could re-create the shift to park message for the dealer, or some other method to test and prove the switch is failing? Truck is still covered by a GM extended warranty for another year, but the message is only coming up a time or two every other week. I've seen the threads about the switch being the failure point, but as usual, the dealer says they cant do anything under the extended warranty without "re-creating the issue." Assuming having a phone ready to video at each shut down is the only option on the table at this point?

Same… have been used to reaching in the door or window and using the light switch for years. On the glass center screen makes zero sense ergonomically but I can only assume some young engineer or accountant justified it by saying they’re automatic and no one uses the switch.

Not based on the new photos I'm seeing. Car and Driver posted additional photos that shows an auto stop start button left of the steering wheel.

Car and Driver is reporting wireless CarPlay WILL remain, and they posted several additional photos, including a left knee shot, but the only hard buttons there are e-brake, auto start stop, tailgate and cargo light. Also definitely looks like High Country and ZR2 get micro fiber on the center of the console lid and the ZR2 possibly also on the seats.

I'm also waiting to see if they confirm Apple CarPlay, because I'm not interested in subscription fees just to use the hardware I already purchased. In closeups it looks like it gets the Colorado/Canyon center screen based headlight controls which I despise. They also appear to lose all the hard switches for functions like seat heating and cooling, parking sensors, lane control, traction control, etc. which means they're all screen/menu based, so verdict is out on how well those will work with gloves or wet/dirty hands. Admittedly they don't show the left knee area of the dash, but I don't see hard switches for locker control on the ZR2, and the "mode" switch appears to eliminate the rotary dial with a quick way to access tow/haul. My 2021 has had multiple screen failures and at times the screen just locks up, goes black, or reboots while driving even after replacement, so loosing the ability to access many of these functions, especially lighting control would be pretty frustrating. There aren't enough photos or detailed trim details other than one mention of "available microfiber trim" to confirm, but the use of microfiber on the seats and or center console is a deal killer for me. Just because you drive a ZR2 or High Country, doesn't mean you don't work out of it, and that material is difficult at best to keep clean and looking decent. Lexus and several other brands are using it on seats, dash, and door panels now, I assume as a cost and weight saving measure, and it looks horrible 1-2 years into ownership. I see what appears to be piano black on the doors and center console in some photos, which also has no place in ANY vehicle in my opinion because it mars and scratches too easily, especially for a truck. Will be interesting to see what GMC comes out with when the Sierra is released as far as materials go.

I already own the 2021 Sierra Denali I'm debating taking well past 100,000. Shoulda, coulda, woulda bought a 2020 Tundra with the 5.7 instead of this if not for Covid era dealer shenanigans. Overall disappointed with the LONG list of non maintenance repairs this truck has required.... thank God for a 7 year 100K GM extended warranty that MORE than paid for itself. I find myself missing the reliability of my '97 GMT400 with the 5.0 Vortec that only seemed to eat the occasional alternator that I could replace in the NAPA parking lot.

Definitely monitoring the suspension. Was surprised a pavement pounder Denali with stock tires ate lower ball joints at 65K. The rear leaf spring isolator pads have also all been replaced TWICE!. Questioning wheel bearings, input output seals, coolant and oil hoses, and how long the electric adaptive ride control shocks will hang in there... already investigating the kits that eliminate those so I can use regular shocks without triggering a warning light. U-joints are on the monitor list as I already would have replaced them on an older truck. I think oner front CV is starting to make some minor noise, so that's the next repair. Just did the serpentine belt again when replacing a leaking radiator, and everything on the accessory drive looked good, but I wonder how much longer the water pump and other items will last. Battery gets replaced every 2.5 years regardless of how it tests. Otherwise everything in the severe maintenance schedule has been done religiously, along with a TON of other warranty repairs.

I am just trying to ascertain what common issues creep up over 100,000 miles on this generation of truck. I don't need any dealer help, and I'm well aware that some people don't consider 100,000 miles to be "high mileage," and I'm also aware that older generations of trucks had less major issues over 100,000 miles. The GM maintenance guide only goes to 150,000 miles and only references basic maintenance, not proactive replacement of things like gaskets, seals, bearings, etc. In my limited experience, I know multiple people who have lost transmissions and lifters shortly after 100,000 miles, so I was hoping I might get a consensus here from a larger sample of people. When driving nearly 20,000 miles a year, often in very remote areas, I personally prefer to be proactive.

I'm approaching 100,000 miles on my '21 with a 5.3, and despite all the electrical gremlins, ball joints/lower control arms that only lasted 65K miles, and a bad radiator.... the motor and transmission are still going strong. What are the common issues other than transmission and lifters people are seeing around 100K and up? Do wheel bearings and seals start failing, are the screens in the dash going to self destruct after so many years, etc.? Contemplating whether its worth keeping the devil I do know vs a devil I don't, especially considering the '27s are still not out. Ideally I'd usually wait a year or two after a re-design to purchase. Are there preventative maintenance procedures like replacing the torque converter, rebuilding the 10 speed, hoses, seals, bearings, and or a true DOD delete that would buy me another year or two of reliability with this heap? Driving 15-20K miles a year at the moment and need it to be as reliable as possible. I see some guys with over 150,000 doing just fine, and others have had transmissions and lifters go within months of getting to 100,000.

Pretty pathetic durability for ball joints on a half ton truck if you ask me. I spend most days on a smooth tollway or interstate, and spent very little time on gravel and chip and seal roads before mine failed. Then to have to replace the arms because they didn't make the ball joint serviceable is just icing on the cake.

I had the lower ball joints go bad before I hit 65,000 miles on a stock height, stock tire and wheel, no spacer, '21 Denali 4x4 that's almost 100% pavement driven. I think they billed my extended warranty about $3,600 for the repair, which was nuts. I also find it crazy that GM has dealers replace the entire lower control arm instead of having a more serviceable ball joint mount.

The waterfall sound is typically just created by air pockets in the heater core, cased by low coolant, not a leak inside the cab. From what I’ve seen, most of these radiators fail at the plastic end caps and seams, so check there first.

Ended up being a seep in the stupid plastic end cap on the radiator, so new radiator it is. 4 years and 70,000 miles and she's already needed 4 camera modules, multiple cameras and wiring harnesses, a new rear sliding window, ball joints and now a radiator among various other little items... not looking forward to the next year or two at this rate.

Back to another dealer next week with the same issue again... waterfall sound at startup, about an inch low in the tank, and the smell of coolant around the front of the truck every time I stop. Hoping this new dealer properly diagnoses, because in my mind there has to be a small leak somewhere.

More front biased than rear. Parking brake is always disengaged.

Been down this road before too and seems it repeats itself every 12 months or so. The first time the dealer pressure tested it twice... the first time it leaked down, and the second time it held, so they just topped it off and sent me on my way. Sending it back to the dealer this week for them to do the same since I'm under an extended warranty, but its down about an inch again and the waterfall sound in the dash at startup is back. Every time I stop and get out, you can smell antifreeze around the front end, but there's no visible signs of a leak.

Every morning immediately after the first cold start of the day, and after putting the truck in gear and letting fully off the brake, I get about 3 or 4 loud rotational rubbing metallic humming sounds that closely match ground speed, i.e. one sound per complete tire revolution. It initially sounded like a brake shield rubbing, but have checked those, and it doesn't make sense that the noise stops after the initial roll off and or the truck is warmed up. Truck is a '21 1500 4x4, and it makes the same sound whether in 2x4 or Auto. Bearings, CV joint, transmission/transfer case, any thoughts?

Have had the same issue in our 2021 Denali for years. Had the rear window re-seal TSB performed once, and recently had the entire power rear sliding window replaced, and it still smells like this after rain. Condensate line doesn't appear to be plugged, and not finding wet carpet anywhere either. Clearly something is collecting water and allowing it to sit though.