CamGTP

So it doesn't move forward at all? Or it does drive but it can barely get out of it's own way? Does it roll freely? Like no stuck calipers. It could also have a plugged up exhaust if it can't breath.

The outside of the slip yoke doesn't mean anything other than it's smooth for the sealing surface. A grooved or rough surface can chew up the seal. Honestly just looks like it's been dry and moisture has been inside there to rust up the end of the yoke like that.

Then just put in the smaller clip, there is barely any difference between them.

I haven't done it to these trucks but I've removed lenses on other vehicles. It's not the most fun thing to do but it can be done. Just take a decent amount of time and an oven to bake the headlight in. My uncles 2014 truck is doing the same thing just not as bad yet. I told it's way faster and easier to just buy new aftermarket units. Removing the headlights is a pain in the ass though.

There will always be a little play in and out, I just don't know the spec. If it was me I'd be putting the old c-clip back in and call it good lol. I've never once measured that before.

I think it's time to measure your driveline angles. Measure what angle the transmission is pointing down, the driveshaft angle and what the rear diff is point up. Ideally you want the two opposite measurements to be equally opposite. So like transmission down at -4 degrees and the diff going up at 4 degrees. Being 1ish degree off shouldn't be an issue most of the time. Past that you will be looking at the rear diff itself. Like a possible bearing issue inside it.

I got one. I think Jettech likes hearing himself talk lol. I mean there is a new thread by him nearly twice a week or more.

Yeah, it's that simple if you buy a complete kit. https://magnusonsuperchargers.com/collections/silverado/products/01-19-53-182-bl

They won't cover it at this point, not even worth it to try. If I had to guess at the cost with current labor rates it's probably $500-600. A GM part is going to be ~$200 and labor in that 200-300, add tax and fees. Smaller shops will be cheaper and so with aftermarket parts. I've always gone aftermarket because of cost and never had a failure.

Supercharger, hands down. They need the least amount of maintenance. They can be run with stock exhaust as well, bolt on and go. I think even some even come with a tune for it. If that ends up being too much money to spend you could regear your truck and get a tune done. Make it drive better and add a little power.

It's normal. Likely you just never payed a ton of attention to it. My truck does the same thing in the summer heat. I can floor it for 10+ seconds and my coolant temps will spike above 225 and come straight back down once I lift off the throttle. I've replaced my thermostat once already too but because it was running too cold in the winter.

I'll take a guess at an injector. But hopefully it's simpler than that.

If you towed a lot, getting 33k miles is pretty good on the OEM tires. I know many guys that do hauling and if their truck didn't come with 19.5's like on a F450, Ram 4500 etc etc, they are only getting 30-45k miles on the rear tires. Michelin Defenders Toyo Open country Hankook Dynapro XT If you can get them, BFG has a new HD Terrian I believe. Though the last two tires I listed could be louder because of the offroad design they have. Unless all you do is freeway driving with almost no towing you'll still be in that 40-50k miles for tires. A set of michelins on a pavement pounder could last 60K+.

What was the sticker price on the one in Saudi Arabia? The only bummer about the US spec is that they only come in work truck trims and only with a 2.7. Other markets get the V8 and more trims.

Put a block of wood between the jack and the oil pan, lift the engine from there.