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CamGTP

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  1. No, not really. It needs to be from the same GMT-900 body style because of the ABS/SB system. So as long you find a 2007.5+ body style rear end like you have there, it would fit. Or just rebuild your factory diff if you can't find a used rear end.
  2. I suppose you could disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate, push it back a little bit and have the engine free spin. If the noise is still there it would be inside the engine. I've heard lifters make that noise. Sometimes the roller ends up being stuck and could wipe out the camshaft.
  3. I was pretty darn close on the CV axle nut lol. The rest of the numbers sound about right too.
  4. 1st and 2nd gear are better in the 4L60e if we are talking off the line get up and go as well as just getting on it when under 50mph. Granted that is when the engine is not making 500+ hp because the 4L80e really needs some power behind it to not make it somewhat of a dog down low. The 4L60e can be beefed up to handle a cammed 5.3 or 6.0 with some off the shelf parts during a rebuild, so that is an option too. Then just don't forget about supporting parts for the cam swap like making sure fueling is there with a healthy pump and larger injectors to handle the power. Of course anything you do if it involves adding power or swapping to a larger engine/different transmission will require a tune.
  5. 215º isn't that bad, the fluid can handle that just fine but 225-230 is getting up there. I notice in your picture that the truck is lifted with larger tires, if that is true that is another reason the temps can creep up there because it's more wind resistance and a larger load put on the transmission to keep it at speed. I'd do the thermostat mod and see where you stand, it always seems to drop the temps a good 15-30 degrees from all of the threads I've read.
  6. That bed thing honestly wouldn't even bother me. The badges thing would but that is an easy fix or I'd just remove them anyway.
  7. For sure check for a vacuum leak. I prefer to smoke test for that instead of spending a lot of time with brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Possible that the brake booster is partly to blame for the near stalling but I'm only guessing without having the truck in front of me.
  8. Needs smaller tires otherwise any of the GM or aftermarket mud flaps will just get ripped off.
  9. If the above doesn't pan out you can purchase a software yourself and do it yourself. HP Tuners would be what you'd buy and the 2 credits needed to unlock the computer. Grand total would be about $400. Finding a local person would be best as hopefully they just charge you for the credits (if using HP Tuners) and like $50 for their time.
  10. If it's rust free and has some sort of vehicle history you can look up or have, it's not a horrible price given the year. For the most part these trucks are simple to fix and parts have stayed relatively cheap.
  11. You still must tune the computer when doing a AFM/DoD delete. The range disable OBD dongle will not do what you want.
  12. Cheaper yet would be to just flip flop the rear sensors. If the code still comes back as the P0420 with the sensors switched, then it's still that cat. It only costs you time and not $50 for a sensor you didn't need.
  13. You can always check the RPO codes in the glove box to make sure what vehicles came with. I've rarely seen the 4.10's on anything but a SS/VHO truck. GT4 - 3.73 GT5 - 4.10 GU6 - 3.42
  14. How does it define hard acceleration and braking though? I can't really say if it was joy riding or just someone with a heavy foot. The break in period stuff is a mixed bag, everything is already seated within a few miles and for sure on a diesel that runs some extreme cylinder pressure and load on the engine just in normal driving.
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