There isn't an actual sensor at all. The o2 sensors are before the cat and after the cat, there is no sensor in the middle of the catalytic converter itself. If you took a temp gun to the outside of the converter you'd only see around 350-500 degrees depending on how hard you just drove the vehicle and where you placed the temp gun. We do not know the actual temp in the middle of the converter itself, it's more of a calculated number than anything. The pre-cat o2 sensors will always swing lean and rich of 450-500mv on a scan tool. Typically ~100-900mv swings in a somewhat steady motion. The post cat o2 sensors should level off around 500-700mv on a scan tool with very little movement if the cat itself is doing it's job correctly. If the post cat o2 sensor starts to follow the pre-cat o2 sensor in a lean/rich swing then the cat is no longer doing it's job and will trip a check engine light.
That just seems really heavy for a 2WD Truck. My 4WD crew cab with like half tank without me in it is 5,500lbs. Add me and all my stuff it's only another 200lbs total. Even if I added a blower and other stuff I'd still be under 5,900lbs full weight with 4WD.
I'm pondering on moving on from my 2016 half ton as well. Do I put tires on it in the next 4-6 months, replace the wheel bearing going out, deal with the slow leak between the engine/transmission and hope the body holds up to more Minnesota winters or sell it. Maybe get me a nice daily driver car again and find me a real clean older single cab short bed truck I can turn into a "fun truck".
If that is accurate, it's pretty low. The lowest my 2012 ever got was around 20psi hot in the summer and that isn't even at the first line which is 20psi. That's like 10psi if it's correct. Ideally you'd test it with a manual pressure gauge to confirm. If the manual gauge is higher then it's probably a sensor issue.
Some tires just like to chop on the inside even with a good alignment. They normally run a touch negative camber anyway for handling. Those kinda look like cooper tires and I've seen them do that many times before.
As said you can't put a port fuel injector engine into a vehicle that needs a direct injected engine. There is no way to make the computer function at all, it will not have a clue what to do without any of the correct sensors, direct injectors or high pressure fuel system hooked up. Your only option for this truck is another Eco Tech 3 DI engine.
With a custom tune done by a person/shop or a handheld tuner. Fair warning here, the rear driveshaft is not rated to go above the speed limiter. People still do it but you run the risk of the driveshaft exploding and they often just let go without a warning at high speeds.
He is right in a way. The stock 6.0 makes more power than your stock 5.3 with stock exhaust manifolds etc etc. The mods you have are going to let it make around stock 6.0 numbers give or take a little. Adding long tube headers will pick up some power and also shift the power band up higher in the rev range. The LM7 in 2004 made 295hp/335tq and the LQ4 was roughly 330-340hp and 360-380ft lbs of torque. (crank hp numbers here) I'd say on a good tune with 25-27 degrees of timing with a safe mid 12's air fuel ratio you could get around 310-320hp and 330ish ft lbs at the rear wheels.
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