There should be a QR code in the drivers door jam with the build date sticker. You can scan that code and it will tell you the equipped RPO codes. GU4 is 3.08's. GU5 is 3.23's. GU6 is 3.42's.
Yes, it's a big deal. Literally nothing is the same between those two engine generations. The engine is different, transmission, wiring harness, every computer, all body wiring including fuse blocks. Non of your interior cluster will work and you'll lose all ABS/tractions control and likely BCM functions. Fuel system is not the same either. Port fuel injection vs the new direct injection. In short, skip this idea entirely.
12mpg is bad. Do you drive 90mph everywhere or have it lifted with heavy ass tires? Those trucks should be rated around 18-20 on the freeway with 14-15 combined I thought.
Yeah, you could but it would not be worth the cost if you ask me. Buying new OEM parts, which is the only way to do this would cost you a large sum of money. We are talking a new camshaft, new lifters, new lifter trays, new pushrods, new head gaskets, new VLOM valley plate with AFM/DoD solenoids and lots more nickel and dime stuff. Some of these parts carry a high price tag because you only want to run new GM parts. If we break it down further, you also need a tune and you are now adding parts to an engine that may make it more problem prone. Think of how many gallons of fuel it would take to recover the cost of this change. I'd guess you'd only gain 1-2mpg. The L9H 6.2 without AFM/DoD is a highly sought engine because it has non of the normal AFM/DoD issues.
It's not normal if last winter my coolant temps stayed around 185-195 all the time and this winter it barely cracks 170. My parents have the same truck as me, theirs stays at or around 195 no matter what the temp is outside. I'm too lazy to change my thermostat and it's also cold. It can wait til spring time when it's back into the 40's.
The one hose coming into the heater core should be so hot you can't touch, the other should be slightly cooler. Sounds like you should back flush the heater core to see if you can get better coolant flow into there.
Yeah, tuning is a pretty major shot to the nads. $1,900 USD just for the computer and credits and I don't even know what if anything can be done about gear ratio changes for the TCM. Plus all the warranty goes away.
My gauge is roughly in the same spot all the time unless stopped for a decent period of time. My thermostat is not working properly as I have HP Tuners and can watch my coolant temps. It used to stay up around 190-195 all the time and now I can barely creep above 170-175 on the open road. If I floor it and drive it hard it will get the coolant temp up to around 200 but drops like a rock down to 170 again.
Do you have a fancy scan tool at all? Something I always check on these virtual flex fuel vehicles (if yours is one) is to see what the reported alcohol/ethanol percentage is. Often times that data is incorrect and will cause a drop in mpg as it will use more fuel than it really needs too. Most fuel should be ~8-10% and when they act funky they will report 25-50%. Not saying this is it but it's something I always check for. Past that, clean the MAF sensor with the proper cleaner. Carefully clean and inspect the throttle body. Check air pressure in the tires. At 100k miles spark plugs should have been done.
Yeah it is possible but only on the older 5.3 engines, he would 100% have to remove the heads in the case of swapping to a standard 6.0 cam. Any change in camshaft that isn't a AFM/DoD cam will require new non DoD Lifters. The only camshaft that is also AFM/DoD is from the Vortec Max trucks that ran the AFM L76 6.0 from like 2007-2009. Depending on what he goes with and so on, some of the camshafts will already tell you what length pushrods are the right size.
I live in Minnesota and the roads aren't the best, I hear Michigan is worse. Any decent pothole is likely to bend/dent a rim. It was rare to see a dent 22in rim in the last shop I was in but 24's and 26's were a lot more common.
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