1. Things can be changed in the tune but I doubt you'd be able to do anything because you'd need to adjust the specific area's in the calibration manually. Someone would have to create you a custom tune file with the changes to make that happen. Those pre-loaded calibrations aren't always the best for every vehicle. 2. The change for gear ratio is likely just there incase someone did change the gearing. If you installed 3.73's over the factory 3.23's for example, it would then let you change the gear ratio to correct the shift points and speedo.
A little bit of build up on a few of them but they look just fine to me.
It's not a direct swap. Those are two different engine generations. The LQ9 is a GEN engine that is a 24/1x crank/cam trigger and the 2007+ 5.3 that you have is a 58/4x trigger. They do not swap over. The knock sensors and the cam position sensor are also in completely different spots between the two engines. Your best options are to find a L76 6.0 from a Vortec Max truck or a 6.0 from a 2500/3500 truck that is also 2007+. The most common is the LY6 or L96 engine. Obviously you'd need to tune the computer for either swap.
You need to provide more detail on your specific issue. Does it have good oil pressure on start up, like 40+ psi and then it just falls to zero or does it level off to a certain number? Can you confirm the readings with a manual oil pressure gauge or is your oil pressure sensor new??
It's all the same crap, trust me. I have over 133,000 on my work truck, have put in the same truck stop bulk DEF since it was new and lots of jugs of NAPA stuff or where ever else. Never had a single DEF related failure. I don't know what prices around you are but DEF at the truck stop is only $3.29 a gallon here. Way cheaper than any parts store when stuff isn't on sale. Normal prices for DEF 2.5 gallon jugs from what I see are $13 or $15 or so.
You need to stay smaller on the camshaft size if you still want good fuel mileage and for it to drive good all around. Larger camshaft need an aftermarket stall converter to make it work better and those will reduce fuel mileage around town a decent amount. If you don't drive 80-90+ mph on the freeway, your fuel mileage should stay roughly the same. Power gains are tough to say because of so many variables. Where you live, weather, fuel used, the dyno it's ran on, who tunes it etc etc. But probably a 40-50hp increase with a mild camshaft should be within in reason.
I'm still trying to find the meaning behind this thread. Yeah it's a nice truck but where is the real information we'd all want to know. No price, no location. Where is this auction? What are the options, engine/transmission/gears, does it have AC etc etc etc. So far it's like a craigslist add where some tard takes two pictures and says "Fur sell".
Did you put different wheels on it too? Most single cab work trucks like that come with 17's. There is nothing else offered. They had 3.23's, 3.42's or 3.73's in the half tons like that with a 4 speed auto. I just don't see a way that you will ever get to 1,100-1,200rpm at 70mph with your truck. It will ruin how it drives in all the other gears. If you go to a different tire size that could lower the rpm, but anything under 1,400-1,500 in a 4 speed is going to be really tough. My 6 speed does 1,700ish rpm at 70mph with 265/65/18 tires and I can g
The fleet trucks that I know plenty about near me are pretty much off the delivery truck, get a few stickers, DOT numbers and it'll be either jammed with 2,000+ lbs of tools/welder/boxes or hooked up to a trailer the first day on the job. Maybe 10 to 30 miles on them if that. Think of hot-shot drivers too, new truck meets gooseneck on the first day and away they go lol.
Just went through a lifter failure on my parents truck. A 2016 with mileage in the 50,000+ range. Was driving around 45-50mph and went to accelerate with a little bit of force, it jumped out of V4 and went into power fine. On decel it went back into V4 mode and the next time it came out of it the lifter collapsed on cylinder 7 and had a hard misfire but still ran. 5 months out of powertrain warranty because of age and not mileage. I know a few people at a local shop that did the work because I just didn't have the time, it still cost a pretty penny to get it fixed. Literally drove
In 2013 they still ran the 4L60e with the 4.3 engine. Did someone install 4.10's before you or something?? I'm not exactly up on my 4.3 option knowledge but I didn't think they ever had those gears, just 3.42's or 3.73's. If you want better cruising RPM, you'll need to go down to 3.42's or 3.73's if it really does have 4.10's in it. I'd even do 3.55's if they offered those for the rear. Do the gear swap, get a engine/transmission calibration/tune fixed and away you go.
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