It can drop mpg. Wider tread depth and added weight for sure reduce mpg, then think about tread pattern. The duelers are more for a highway tread with some offroad ability. How much it drops is tough to say but some for sure.
Objects don't feel windchill. The ambient temp is all you need to concern yourself with. I always modded the plug end by removing the thermostat to make it run all the time. Never had an issue do it that way. My current truck didn't come with a block heater so I installed an oil pan heater instead.
Get a scan tool on that can read ABS/TC codes, that would help you track down a possible cause.
I would purchase a GM service manual or something like Alldata if you want step by step stuff. Or you can look up video's on youtube to get you an idea. Rebuild a rear end is not something to take lightly, you will need a few special tools to properly install the part to avoid damaging new bearings and gears.
You won't really find a tune for that. You must create the tune because you have to swap so many parts of the calibration around. In the HP Tuners world I'd be copying over all the 5.3 data, then deleting the EGR function and related trouble codes. As well as finding the right flex fuel injector data and copying all that data into the correct parts of the tune. Flashing it would be the last step and making minor changes as needed based off the data logs I collect.
You can't run the P59 in a P01 truck without doing a complete re-pin of the harness and likely losing some of your trucks current features. The P01 is a red/blue harness and the P59 is a blue/green harness, or it's flipped flopped I'm just forgetting at the moment. Install the 5.3 and tune the P01 computer to run it. It's as easy as doing a copy/paste with a yukon 5.3 tune file. (in hp tuners atleast) You just have to keep certain 6.0 parts. Like the intake if you keep the EGR, the cable throttle body, the fuel rail/injectors.
Very similar transmissions. Minor things like the possible case changes and input/output shaft changes for each specific application but the majority is what is said above. Weight difference is one and so is the calibration differences. The camaro uses a much different shifting strategy and torque converter lock up settings.
Deleting the AFM/DoD with a programmer or plug in device like the Range AFM disabler would be a quick and easy way to shut it off. If you want to actually remove the parts completely from the engine it would require at a minimum these parts. New camshaft, new camshaft lifters, new pushrod, head gaskets, head bolts, intake gaskets, new valley plate and gasket, new timing cover if you removed the VVT depending on what year of truck you bought. All that stuff and other little odds and ends like coolant, engine oil, gasket maker etc etc. They sell complete kits to do this through many vendors. Then you need to have someone or a shop that does customer computer tuning to make the truck run correctly with all these new parts installed. Probably looking at maybe $700-1,000 for parts alone.
One would assume the median income has to be much higher in places that have higher fuel prices. And likely the difference in the worth of the dollar. I'm sure $15 an hour is a low paying job in places like Canada but in many parts of the US, they is considered just "okay".
The power figures you posted aren't going to happen. Even GM has a performance intake with a computer calibration change and the power gains are no where near that high for an intake alone.
Book time and real time never match up. They add so much time because of all the little steps for removing fans, remove each line for the oil cooler and transmission cooler. I had the fans out this past summer in like 15 minutes maybe so I could clean the fins on the radiator. I was probably less than 30-40min from having the hoses off, cooler lines off and radiator out if I had a new to remove it. Here is a video on removing it, it's very straight forward.
I think E85 was around $1.99 too. I still find it stupid that the non ethanol premium fuel is such a large jump over regular 91 or 93 premium. $2.77 for 91/92. Then 93 is a couple cents more at BP but the non ethanol 91 octane is $2.93 and the Shell Premium is over $3.00.
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