Lets keep this simple. It can't hurt the motor so why not if you are going to keep your truck and put a lot of miles on it. Any can is better than no can. In the scheme of things the cost is minimal compared to other things.
Gee whiz, another problem GM motor, like the other brands don't have problems also. I feel for the owners of problem vehicles but the fact remains they all build a bad one now and then. If there were posts from the owners of non problem vehicles this site would be many times it's size. I also believe the way a vehicle is used and maintained is a huge factor that needs to be included in the equation but is hard to track. I guess I'm luckier than the buyers of new vehicles because I've never had any major problems with my used vehicles all my life.
Karnut, Agree. My 93 Silverado was real simple to maintain and repair. I miss the 8 foot bed to. Grumpy, The fluid difference is minor compared to the maintenance IMO. Agree about the mechanics we have today. It was 5 degrees here this morning with 8 inches of snow. My Honda ATV that I use to plow snow with fired right up. I bought it used and the carb. was a mess. I rebuilt the carb. jetted it for altitude and it came with a K&N air filter. I run it with the air filter box lid off to get max air and a sock over the air filter. I did the plug color tune and spent the time to get it right. My neighbor has 2 of the same ATV 's. One is the same year with a carb., the other is 4 years newer and is fuel injected. Mine will out run his stock one and keep up wit his fuel injected one.
I recently put a catch can on my 2012 non direct injection 5.3. I went through the same ordeal about which can to buy. This video compares a Moroso to an RX performance. The expensive can did catch more. I went with the Moroso figuring it was better than nothing.
The threads about cleaning fuel systems, oil changes, fluid changes etc. got me to thinking, which some times can be dangerous. Not much has changed for me as far as doing maintenance to our vehicles. With technology you no longer have to do regular tune ups, plugs, points, condensers, distributor caps, rotors and timing checks. The extended oil change intervals are a result of advances in oil and filter technology. I was a regular user of STP oil additive back in the day. I change all the fluids before recommended intervals along with the belts, filters and plugs. I also change the power steering fluid. I buy all my maintenance fluids and parts on sale if I can by planning ahead. Changed the plugs in my 2012 Sierra for $24 instead of $70 over the counter with tax at the auto store. The fuel system has always received regular care. Fuel system cleaners from Chevron Techron, Sea Foam to B&G 44K. I have used only Top Tier gasoline since it became available. Windshield wipers, batteries and tires are the same schedule. Batteries get replaced every 4 years, tires every 35- 40 K miles and wipers as needed. Starters, alternators and power steering pumps I watch and listen to so I can replace them before they fail. Brakes are checked twice a year and replaced when needed. I give them a regular bath and a wax job. I check the area(garage floor,street etc.) where the vehicle is parked for signs of leaks. About every 3 months I check the engine bay with a flashlight for leaks, worn belts etc. The thing I appreciate the most is a tune up today means changing the plugs. My previous truck, a 1993 Silverado 5.7 TBI required plugs every 35 K miles if I used the stock OEM plugs. It would burn the electrode off like days of old and the more I towed the faster the electrode degraded. I tried up-grading the plugs to newer styles but felt the stock plugs made it run better. The distributor cap and rotor I ran for 50 k miles because I used Excel copper parts instead of stock aluminum parts. Before fuel injection in the days of carburetors tune ups were done more frequently. Like the title says not much has changed for me the way I do things. I would rather do the maintenance in the garage instead of repairs on the side of the road where some idiot could run me over. In 50 years I have had a vehicle break down twice, both times due to failed parts. Nothing is perfect. Works for me. If you find one of my methods useful that's great. You do what makes you comfy.
If I had a 2 mile drive to work I would put the trans. in manual 4,5, 6, 7th gear depending on the roads driven, no AFM activated. 2 miles it's not getting up to temperature. The oil, trans fluid, differentials don't dissipate moisture. The exhaust doesn't get warm enough to rid its self of moisture either promoting rust. I would take the long way to work sometimes to get the temps up. YMMV. The old lady car that was driven to the library.
The engine in my truck is not a direct injection motor but I decided to put a catch can on it. I figured any catch can would be better than none. This review is for the Moroso model 85481 installed on my 2012 Sierra 5.3 L. I looked at a lot of catch cans and decided on this one. I could not justify paying more for a kit that included all the parts to install the catch can. Here goes and I hope this makes sense. Overall good quality. Simple designed interior for catching oil, water. I installed this on a 2012 Sierra 5.3 L. Everything was straight forward except for the install of the mounting bracket. The catch can mounting bracket fastens to the existing alternator bracket. The alternator bracket has threaded holes from the factory that are used for mounting the catch can. The kit comes with 2 bolts for mounting the catch can bracket to the alternator bracket. One bolt is about a 3/8 inch bolt and the other bolt is about 1/4 inch bolt. The alternator bracket must have 2 different size holes from the factory depending on the year because they include 2 different size bolts. The hole in the catch can mounting bracket that you use to bolt it to the alternator bracket is about 1/2 inch I.D. It’s bigger than the big bolt. My alternator bracket required the smaller bolt for mounting the catch can to the alternator bracket. Using the smaller bolt, the bracket hole was too big so the bracket would move around on the smaller bolt due to the bigger hole in the mounting bracket. I made a spacer from a flat washer that fit the I.D. of the bracket hole and the O.D. of the smaller bolt to stop the bracket from moving around on the smaller bolt. This made the mounting bracket more solid and prevented it from moving around on the smaller bolt. I think Moroso should include this spacer for this type of installation.
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