You don’t need to pull the control arm, but you do need to remove a frame cross member further back just to get the bar out of the frame once it’s free. Search for videos on youtube. Someone else commented that the torsion bar front end fits tightly in the lower control arm, and may take serious hammering to break it loose. I have no experience with it myself.
The torsion bars can be swapped out. There have been other recent threads where how to do it was covered. It’s a somewhat heavy diy job because of how big the bars are and how tight they may fit in the front lower control arm. If you are not a diy person the dealer or another mechanic can do it. Three hours labor plus parts would be my guess from watching the videos. Torsion bars will be in the ballpark of $250 each. So maybe around $1000 to $1200 have them swapped out. Just guesstimating.
If you are running empty with max tire pressure, especially with 20 inch wheels, that will contribute to a stiff, busy feeling ride quality, especially at low speed, and i don’t think shocks can fix that. You might try adjusting tire pressure if you haven’t already. I’m running my new 3500 empty during break in at 55 front 60 rear and it is noticeably better than the 60/80 max the dealer delivered it with. I have the camper torsion bar option and 18 inch wheels. When the 2500 lb slide in camper goes on in a couple weeks I expect the ride will be pretty nice. I suspect a set of Bils
It allows you to have an isolated battery for accessory loads when the truck is not running without running down your starting battery. It charges when the truck is running. People run various things off of them, such as a winch. I bought the option thinking I may use it to power a refrigerator/freezer in the back seat and an air compressor for adding air to the tires after airing down. It was one of those options that's cheap to order with the truck but more expensive to add later. It cost about $40 more than a battery alone would cost.
I took delivery last weekend. It's definitely a spray in liner on my truck. It's similar to LineX in texture and hardness, but is a different chemistry because the smell is different and nowhere near as strong as the smell Linex has for the first couple of months. It seems about twice as thick as the LineX I recently had put in my 93 truck. It is not soft like Rhinoliner.
Another JR replied to CRApex's topic in 6.6L Gas V8 & HD Transmission Powertrain (L8T/MYD)Could you describe where the poorly clamped connection was? At the cooler? At the transmission? Somewhere else? Thanks.
I took delivery of my new truck yesterday GMC 3500 SLT CC LB SRW gas engine 18 inch wheels with front camper springs (not snow plow package). It’s noticeably stiffer than the ones I test drove without camper springs but not at all harsh when driving empty. What I most notice is increase lateral stiffness turning corners (which is what you want for a camper). I've been driving around so far at the tire pressure the factory or dealer put in it, 60 front 80 rear, which is the door recommendation that supports full load. Sticker payload is 4,053 lbs. Two tons for the price of one! I’ll likely
My new 3500HD gas truck arriving next week will have the factory dual battery installation. If you would like me to post photos of anything let me know. I'm going to be immediately installing 6awg wire to a slide in camper connector (for a 30 amp DC-DC converter/charger in the camper), so figuring out the battery, isolator, and fuse block arrangement on the truck will be one of the first things I get into.
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