Another JR

Make sure you hang onto that evidence that they billed you for two quarts but said they only added one in the oil consumption check records. Their credibility will be damaged by that if you get to arbitration or a lemon law case.

I apologize for coming across as “calling you out.” I meant no offense. You are right I read the part wrong about the screw that keeps the rotor from falling off when you take the wheel off. I put antiseize on that too. Most manuals call for it I believe when you replace the rotors.

There are important reasons not to put antiseize compound on the hub/wheel interface and on the wheel studs or bolts. The wheel bolt/stud torque is specified based on an assumed level of friction to achieve a desired bolt/stud tension and thereby a desired clamping force between the wheel and the hub face. If the torque is specified for dry threads and you apply that torque with a lubricant of some kind on the threads, the bolt/stud tension induced will go up significantly, and you may yield or even break the bolt or stud. If the specified torque is for dry threads and you decide to use antiseize compound or some other lubricant, you need to use a lower torque, targeting the same clamping force. There are tables on the internet that provide guidance for adjusting torque to achieve the same clamping force with different thread conditions. The reasons you are trying to achieve a certain clamping force are 1) to hold the wheel on with preload so no gap opens between the wheel and hub under any wheel load condition, and 2) to create sufficient friction between the hub and wheel so that the wheel does not shift on the hub under any load. This friction interface is intended to take the torsional and lateral loads between the wheel and hub so that the bolts/studs are not subjected to significant bending loads, which can cause them to fail. There is no practical increase to the existing lug torque and clamping force you can do that will restore the intended friction if you have lubricated the wheel/hub interface with antiseize or grease. Will using antiseize on your wheel/hub interface actually cause your lug bolts/studs to eventually fail from bending fatigue? Who knows, but by adding compound there you have seriously altered the joint conditions intended by the engineers. I would respectfully suggest you not do that.

Check this thread out:

They seem to sell a lot of “standard bed” HDs new, but it seems like over half of the people I’ve run into hoping to find a used late model HD truck (GM or Ford) want a long bed. Different markets I guess.

I have had two cases like you described where, in a right curve, an oncoming car switched to the center left turn lane, pointing their car at me briefly and setting off the red warning light. In both cases, if the car had actually been coming at me at that speed and distance, a head-on would have been unavoidable, so you’d think any automatic braking would have been applied immediately. However, in both cases, the brakes were not applied by the vehicle. I was reacting and covering the brake in each case, but both times the threat went away before I applied much brake if any. That makes me wonder if it’s not programmed to apply AEB in a head-on detection, maybe due to the false alarm propensity. Just a guess, though. None of the material I’ve found addresses behavior of the system in head-on warnings. I will say the system has given me numerous legitimate rear end warnings, zero rear end false alarms, and only those two well understood head on “false” alarms, that really were legitimate warnings until the other car changed direction away from pointing at me. The only brake inputs I’ve experienced were in the recent potential rear end event I described in the first post here, and as you said those may have been just IBA and not AEB. No unwanted braking. That’s in two years and 8,000 miles of mixed driving. Nothing about that record makes me distrust the system, so I’m leaving mine turned on.

Jettech, your new truck should be a 2024. You know you love the larger center display. Anything less and you will just be back to lusting again in 6 months. The rest of us are just trying to look out for you, and don’t really want to deal with another round of you denying you want a new truck in the next two years. Just do it, but do it with a 2024+.

That was my experience too prior to this recent event. I think the difference was I was going fast and the slowdown in front of me was very sudden. The thing did its job very well. I’m just trying to understand whether the AEB fired right before I hit the brake.

There is a delay between the FCA warning and the application of brakes. I’ve had maybe a dozen FCA warnings, but this was the first one where the brakes did something in addition to what my foot was commanding. I suspect the delay is longer when the the closure rate is lower. In this case it seems like there was maybe a full second delay, but not much more.

Yes it was my 2021 3500hd SLT with convenience and safety packages (forgot what the packages were called). It definitely has those features. They were on the sticker and covered in the manual. The manual says “if you have FCA you also have AEB and IBA.” You can turn them off in the settings, but I have them turned on. One of the two braking features definitely activated, but it’s not clear to me which one.

Kaiser is now for non-high-risk people saying either do colonoscopy or the lab test.

I was on the freeway in fairly heavy rain and the traffic ahead of me suddenly slowed rapidly. I was on it and never came closer than 30 feet from the car ahead of me, but I had the forward collision alert triggered (which I’ve experienced several times before) and, for the first time, at least one of the braking system assist features also triggered. I’m not sure which one, though. It almost seemed like the truck was already starting to brake as I hit the pedal, but I’m not sure. It definitely was applying more brake than my pedal input. It braked more heavily than I would have in that particular event, but it did its job and kept me from getting near the car in front of me. It sounded sort of like the noise ABS makes, but more of a steady noise rather than the stuttering sound ABS makes. I was impressed with how well and how smoothly it worked, but I’m curious whether AEB actuated versus just IBA. Anybody able to describe how to tell the difference when the braking is not obviously well before you hit the brake pedal?

New truck time?

My gas truck has never done this. Maybe a tank vent line is plugged or kinked somewhere?

Forgot to quote so you’d get a notification.