You can use pin 4 of the trailer connector, which comes from the aux battery fuse block, as long as you ensure your dc to dc charger engine running detection logic is set properly to shut off the charger when the engine is shut down. You don’t want to discharge the aux battery with the dc to dc charger. Also, that wire is protected by a 30 amp fuse. A 20 amp dc to dc charger should work fine. A 30 amp one probably would blow the fuse. If you do it this way, use the trailer connector ground wire - don’t use the truck body as the current return. If I was doing lights, electronics char
The dc to dc charger for camper battery charging normally is only intended to charge the camper battery when the engine is running, and will have some means to detect engine running. Because it only draws current when the engine is running there is no need to further isolate it from the main battery to prevent discharge. I connected 6awg wire to the main truck battery fuse block unused 80 amp fuse for the positive, and to one if the large body ground studs for the negative. I actually used the ground stud the aux battery negative is connected to because it was most accessible, but it
Another JR replied to RyanCawdor's topic in 6.6L Gas V8 & HD Transmission Powertrain (L8T/MYD)I’m not sure your 2500hd will end up with a payload of 3600 to 3900. My 3500hd cc lb srw with camper springs has a gvwr of 11,500 and a payload rating of 4,054 lbs. I would guess you would be closer to 3,000. My slide in camper weight rating on the glove box camper sticker is 3,304 lbs. I don’t think your 2000 lb camper will exceed you camper weight limit so you should be ok.
Keep in mind that a side effect of connecting any load to the trailer marker light circuit is that the truck detects a trailer. That causes the rear parking assist to be turned off. This will happen even if you simply have a connector with an LED circuit check light on the connector. A slide in camper sized for a full size truck is typically wide enough that the DOT marker light requirement applies, so it will have marker lights you’ll want to wire to the truck marker light circuit. I would recommend separately wiring your camper to the appropriate truck battery and truck marker light circuit
https://www.gmc.com/trucks/sierra/2500hd/sle-slt/build-and-price/config Have you used this site? It should tell you what’s offered?
I live in a two-plate state, so I ordered the front plate holder (free) but did not have the dealer install it because I wanted it to be removable with no holes left in the lower grille plastic. The parts have been sitting for a few months and I finally got around to figuring how to mount it. The holder has a deep 1x6 inch rectangular recess behind the upper middle that creates a 1x6 surface that almost touches the bumper when the holder is in place. I thought I’d use some of that really strong double stick automotive trim tape (two layers) to hold it on the bumper, with a tight teth
I don’t have any particular recommendations, but just in case you didn’t know, Craigslist at least in my area typically has sets of nearly new takeoff 18 and 20 inch wheels/tires from these trucks. You can usually get a set for around $1000.
Yes, assuming the wheel and tire size is the same.
Sorry Polaris1man if my attempt at humor delayed people responding to you. Regarding gas mileage, I get a little over 17 unloaded on the highway at 65 over low altitude rolling terrain. Running 70 plus drops it down to 16. I get about 15 with my pop-up slide-in truck camper that weighs about 1700 lbs and sticks up sbout 12 inches above the cab. I can’t offer any towing numbers yet. Like I said, I’m very happy with the gas engine and 6 spd transmission for my use, including some towing of an 8000 lb boat trailer. My only complaint about the truck is not engine spe
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