GN2018

Close. Been leasing my cars for about 20 years and haven’t worked on my own car in any fashion in that time. Now retired, first vehicle I’ve actually owned in a long time and want to do my own work. Last time I worked on a car, the fluid reservoir was maybe a quart. You sure couldn’t pour an entire gallon in it and the only washer fluid was blue and you just had to make sure you got the one that was good to -25 degrees. And yes, pumps were crap and it does cross your mind what pumping out a gallon might do. Beyond that, I was wondering if someone might just have an idea where there is an easy to access a hose that I could pull and drain the reservoir easily. Saving what’s in there wouldn’t have been a bad idea either, but not going to go to too much trouble for that. So, thanks for your help. Maybe you should find a private club with car geniuses so you don’t have to be encumbered by such ignorance.

I haven’t tried RainX in a while, but the last time I used it, I didn’t like it. It seemed to leave a coating on the windshield (as it’s supposed to) that made my wipers chatter. Kind of like they do if you turn them on dry or as if something sticky was on the windshield. Maybe I can find a multi function solution without the RainX. I didn’t know they made multi function fluid. I guess I need to get out more.

Haven’t had to change mine yet, but will be going to the NAPA store and getting the Gold air filter.

Does anyone change their washer fluid for the change in season? I have a fluid in the truck now that is good for cleaning bugs off the windshield. It’s getting to be winter up her in Michigan and I want to put a fluid in that is good at defrosting the windshield. I don’t want to just mix the two because I’d just be diluting one of the properties I want. In this case the defrost. Problem is, I think it would be a pain to try to drain the reservoir and I don’t really want to waste it by spraying it until it’s gone not to mention the extra wear on the pump. Is there an easy way to swap out the fluid?

Okay, but what effort is it going to take for the OP to get out of paying $125? I recognize that he may be able to really win and pay nothing, but at what cost? I think the “people like you” are people that don’t want to spend any more time on an aggravating situation. Plus, there is no guarantee that he’ll win. I think you made your living playing the odds. All’s fair. That still gets him out of paying the full boat. It’s even better than what you think GM will have to pay. I’m still with taking the hit of $125 and getting on with his life unless the $125 is truly a financial hardship, which could always be possible.

That may all be true, but I’d pay the $125 and be happy. They didn’t need to do anything. They stepped up even if it didn’t cost them much. Pay the funds and call it done.

It was dark when I got home today so I tried it an at least with my vehicle, a 2018 Silverado, the cargo light will come on while the truck is in reverse. Frankly, it doesn’t help at all. The brakes lights are brighter and since when I’m backing up I’m basically riding the brake, they over take any benefit from the cargo light. Even without the break lights on, the cargo light doesn’t make any difference. I could tell when it was on , but it was more noticeable that it increased the light in terms of distance from the rear of the truck. It didn’t improve the view through the back up camera in terms of greater brightness. I’ll pass on this mod.

Interesting. Thanks for the information.

I guess you can see if it’s worth it by manually turning on the cargo light the next time you back up at night. That’s what I’m going to do so that I can see how much that helps.

So, all you have to do is jumper those two wires with the diode? And then, when you’re in “R” both the back up lights and the cargo lights are on? That sounds cool. Where Is the fuse box pictured above located?

There was a recent thread that discussed this. Have fun reading. It got a bit lively toward the end.

That’s what I would do unless I had the option to extend the warranty. Alternatively, mess around with it and just recognize that you probably have a big repair bill coming. The money is probably not an issue since the repair and driving a used truck is still probably cheaper than driving new, but it’s the hassle of dealing with it that I would want to avoid. If you keep it, start looking for a good repair shop that isn’t the dealer. That alone will save you serious money if you experience internal engine failure.

Does that coolant actually recycle into the radiator or is it just an overflow? Seems like the amount of new fluid that actually makes it back into the main system would be minimal.

There you go. Hang in there. They don’t want you to plaster this all over social media. Be polite but firm.

Throw an effing fit. Are you telling me they didn’t warranty a new (used) truck for 1yr/12K miles? The rip off used car dealer on the corner probably gives you 30 days or more (feel free to use that when you’re enlightening them). Seriously, don’t accept this shit. Get loud. Stay polite, but make sure everyone can hear you. Speak to the owner. Not the manager, the OWNER. At the very least, they should cut you some serious slack. Like their cost of the parts and no labor. But even that is insulting. Spend some time looking over your paperwork. Did they say they inspected the truck? If so, let them know how miserably they failed. Is there any out clause? Threaten to return it. Are you positive there’s no warranty of any kind? This ain’t over.