I would just change clothes before leaving. For example, towel off a bit and then put some sweat pants on over your shorts and put on a fresh t-shirt. When I go to the gym, I wear those thin sweat wicking cloths like Hanes Cool Dri and when I leave, I just put my jeans on over them and either put on my jacket in cool weather or put a larger cotton shirt on over the Cool Dri. Good enough to get home.
The last time I looked into a Traverse everything I read said that all of it's engines use start/stop technology. And, that there was no way to turn that off. I'm sure there's a work around or tune out there, but I'm not sure if any of them don't void the warranty. I think you can drive around in manual, but I wasn't interested in that. So, if you're okay with start/stop technology (same as driving a golf cart), then have at it. I'm holding off as long as possible.
I got a Lomax because I didn’t think I’d like it when flipped up that the back window would be covered. Thankfully, I don’t haul often enough that it matters, but I think I was wrong. It’s not terrible, but it’s no picnic removing the Lomax when you do need the full bed open. I think I’d rather have the window blocked the few times I need it than to have to fully remove the Lomax. So, if you’re worried that you may prefer one that requires removal, like the Lomax, my opinion is that you’ll be happier with the Bakflip. Especially if you think you’ll need to flip it often. On another note, I really like my BedRug.
I have a question. Is there any way to NOT have the rear window defrost come on when you use remote start? I like starting the truck but I don’t always have the need to clear the back window. In fact, it’s rare to need to use the defroster. I hate getting down the road and realize I’ve been warming up a perfectly clear window for 10 or 20 minutes while driving. The heated seats go off when you start the car. Why not the defroster? Am I missing something? I looked in the options menu and don’t see anything.
Close. Been leasing my cars for about 20 years and haven’t worked on my own car in any fashion in that time. Now retired, first vehicle I’ve actually owned in a long time and want to do my own work. Last time I worked on a car, the fluid reservoir was maybe a quart. You sure couldn’t pour an entire gallon in it and the only washer fluid was blue and you just had to make sure you got the one that was good to -25 degrees. And yes, pumps were crap and it does cross your mind what pumping out a gallon might do. Beyond that, I was wondering if someone might just have an idea where there is an easy to access a hose that I could pull and drain the reservoir easily. Saving what’s in there wouldn’t have been a bad idea either, but not going to go to too much trouble for that. So, thanks for your help. Maybe you should find a private club with car geniuses so you don’t have to be encumbered by such ignorance.
I haven’t tried RainX in a while, but the last time I used it, I didn’t like it. It seemed to leave a coating on the windshield (as it’s supposed to) that made my wipers chatter. Kind of like they do if you turn them on dry or as if something sticky was on the windshield. Maybe I can find a multi function solution without the RainX. I didn’t know they made multi function fluid. I guess I need to get out more.
Does anyone change their washer fluid for the change in season? I have a fluid in the truck now that is good for cleaning bugs off the windshield. It’s getting to be winter up her in Michigan and I want to put a fluid in that is good at defrosting the windshield. I don’t want to just mix the two because I’d just be diluting one of the properties I want. In this case the defrost. Problem is, I think it would be a pain to try to drain the reservoir and I don’t really want to waste it by spraying it until it’s gone not to mention the extra wear on the pump. Is there an easy way to swap out the fluid?
Okay, but what effort is it going to take for the OP to get out of paying $125? I recognize that he may be able to really win and pay nothing, but at what cost? I think the “people like you” are people that don’t want to spend any more time on an aggravating situation. Plus, there is no guarantee that he’ll win. I think you made your living playing the odds. All’s fair. That still gets him out of paying the full boat. It’s even better than what you think GM will have to pay. I’m still with taking the hit of $125 and getting on with his life unless the $125 is truly a financial hardship, which could always be possible.
It was dark when I got home today so I tried it an at least with my vehicle, a 2018 Silverado, the cargo light will come on while the truck is in reverse. Frankly, it doesn’t help at all. The brakes lights are brighter and since when I’m backing up I’m basically riding the brake, they over take any benefit from the cargo light. Even without the break lights on, the cargo light doesn’t make any difference. I could tell when it was on , but it was more noticeable that it increased the light in terms of distance from the rear of the truck. It didn’t improve the view through the back up camera in terms of greater brightness. I’ll pass on this mod.
Interesting. Thanks for the information.
I guess you can see if it’s worth it by manually turning on the cargo light the next time you back up at night. That’s what I’m going to do so that I can see how much that helps.
So, all you have to do is jumper those two wires with the diode? And then, when you’re in “R” both the back up lights and the cargo lights are on? That sounds cool. Where Is the fuse box pictured above located?
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