GN2018

Special order? I go on the Chevy web site and the only option I see for a regular cab is a standard bed.

Life would be a lot simpler if these auto companies would just make vehicles that people want to buy. I still can’t believe that they don’t sell a standard cab with a short bed. My neighbor has on that’s not too old (a RAM) and it looks great. Hope you’re happy with the new truck. Personally, I’d find it hard to compromise as much as you had to do to get what you want.

I've owned my truck for Just over five years. I put new tires on it (earlier than needed), I've changed the oil and filters ahead of schedule and now I just completed the fluid changes recommended using the severe maintenance schedule in the manual. It always hurts to spend $2,100 but I'm doing everything I can to keep this truck in good repair. For one, that's just my nature. Second, is that I loan it to my daughter to pull a small camper when her family (grandkids) go camping. Given the cost of a new truck, or any vehicle for that matter, $2,100 is a small price to pay for reliable transportation that also provides good utility from time to time. All tolled, I've spent $4,500 on maintenance - so less than a $100 per month and less than 10 cents per mile. That seems reasonable. I wish I had the tools and ability to do things like the brakes, but those days are gone. I did all the work on my cars in my teens through my 30's. Then I got a job with a car stipend, leased cars, and never had to even think about repairs. However, in retirement (8 years), I now own my vehicles and I'll have to pay to get things done. I think the best thing I could do now is find a good independent mechanic so I don't have to rely on the dealer.

Thanks for the input with actual numbers. I didn't do too bad because I had the Costco discount of 15% so it ended up costing me closer to $1,400. I also talked him down just a little so ended up spending $2,100 (including taxes) for the brakes, brake fluid change, fluid change for the transaxle and the front differential. I already had the transmission done so I'm up to date on my 45K miles / 5 year services using the severe schedule in the owners manual.

My '21 Denali needs brakes. It's at the dealer because I thought the brake indicator sensor was bad and it's under warranty. I'll go look in the morning, but they said it's just the brakes and quoted $926 for the front and $786 for the rear (rotors and pads). For a total of $1700. With a discount from Costco I'll get that closer to $1450. I'm sure that's expensive but of course, nothing is cheap and there's no way I'm doing it myself. So I'm asking how outrageous that price is? I'm not going to bother going and getting the truck and finding a good mechanic (I don't currently have one because I've been driving new so long) for a couple hundred but much more than that and I'll have to consider it. What's a good price for a complete brake job? Also, they quoted $210 for a brake system flush, which according to the manual (severe service) should be done every 5 years. So, I guess that should be done too. Looking for some advice. TIA

A few weeks ago, I tried to return my module for a refund and they put me in touch with Holly (who actually makes the unit) and they didn't agree with what I was told by Range. They didn't know any reason why it shouldn't work with the remote start. Accordingly, instead of refunding my money, they sent me a new on and asked me to send the old one back. All paid for by them. I did that and have had the new unit for almost two weeks now and from what I can tell, it seems to be working just fine. I've been starting my truck with the remote even though it's not too cold any more and I have not had the stop/start kick in. I'm not sure what happened to with the other unit, but this new one seems to be working, which I'm very happy to report.

My 2018 Silverado seats were much more comfortable than my 2021 GMC Denali’s. Sad.

I started the process to return my disabler today. On top of the remote start issue, I started getting an errant message about my breaks that does not happen when the module isn't plugged in. I've not had anyone touching my brakes and they are still the original brakes. I don't want to deal with this from a $200+ product especially attached to a $30K vehicle. I'm going to look into other options, probably a tuner. Or, I may just wait and if I get any lifter issues, do a hard delete of the afm/dfm system.

Yes, that works. The concern I have is whether or not I really want to do that every time I use remote start throughout the winter. Additionally, I've started getting an unusual message when I start my truck (with the module in). It says it noticed the brake sensor was engaged and asks if I want to reset the brake pad monitor. I'm pretty cost to returning this.

Interesting. I’ve never experienced that feeling.

How do you know? I don’t see any indicator that shows when the cylinders are being deactivated. The stop/start took me awhile to confirm because in the very cold weather we had the past few weeks since I bout it, the truck naturally wasn’t doing the stop/start. Plus, to be clear, it’s not the existence of remote start that causes, it’s using it (starting the truck and letting it warm up) that causes the issue. I’m sure you can feel changes like throttle response changes so that would make me feel better but still, how do we confirm that the cylinders are not being deactivated?

Not that I want to spend $600 but I’ll ask the person I’m talking to whether or not the Pulsar would have the same issue. Given what she told me about the module I have, I’m not sure it wouldn’t have the same problem. If the truck won’t initialize the module when using remote start, why would the Pulsar act any different? Their website says it doesn’t change the ECM.

I recently bought a Range disabler. With winter, it was hard to test and did not realize that it is not disabling the stop/start until it warmed up today and the engine stopped at a light (yes, it started again). So I emailed Range and after they asked if I use remote start (I do a lot in the winter), I received the following response. This is a significant issue. So a user is expected to disconnect and reconnect the device after remote starting? I think I'm going to return the product. That's a lot more difficult than just hitting the button on the dash to shut it off. I admit, the other function of turning off AFM/DFM is an additional function that the module provides, but at the cost of disconnecting and reconnecting the unit virtually all winter?? I'm not so sure it's worth it.

Just bought it. Delivered yesterday. Bought directly from Range.

It would be easier to just unplug the Range module than to set up a battery tender every time I parked my truck. The problem with both solutions, is that I’m not sure when it will be that my truck sits for a day or three without being driven.

Looking for real world experience about the Range disabler and its draw on a battery in our trucks. I just bought a Range module and am wondering how long it would have to be without me driving my truck before it would drain the battery enough to keep it from starting the truck. Being retired, there are certainly times when I don’t drive my truck every day, but I don’t think I’ve ever gone three full days without driving my truck unless I’m out of town in my other vehicle. Does anyone think I have anything to concern myself with for that amount of time? Their web site claims the power draw is minimal but the package says to remove the module if you aren’t going to drive your vehicle for a few days. Assuming a healthy fully charged battery, what’s a good estimate of how long the truck can sit without draining to battery to the point of not being able to start the truck? Thanks.

I definitely change my oil frequently. I never go more than 5K miles. I buy a package of three oil changes for $200 but the package has to be used in two years. Given how few miles I drive, it’s more frequent than my standard of 5K per oil change but it’s close so it ends up being a good deal.

I just bought a Range AFM/DFM eliminator. At least I won’t have to press the disable button every time I start the truck.

That’s what I thought. Thanks.

I should probably post in a different area but I was thinking about any year. It’s sad that the first response referenced trucks over 15 years old. I certainly hope some of the newer engines last well over 100k miles and even over 200k should be no problem with a maintained vehicle. As for the current models that newdude mentioned, that brings me back to a question I asked before but did not get a very good response. Is it the act of manatee cylinders (DFM) or is it inherent in the components they used? Will shutting off DFM “fix” the problem or, given the components are designed differently for DFM, are they just destined to fail even if disabled? Reason I ask is because most new trucks were sold with DFM. So, are they all crap? Because if I can shut it off and have a good chance at getting another 100k+ out of my 5.3 v8 Denali, maybe I should just give that truck to my daughter. I currently have 45k miles on mine and I follow the severe duty maintenance schedule but I have not turned off DFM due to it still being under warranty (extended).

I’m looking for a truck/suv for my daughter. She tows a small trailer so I would prefer a towing package however, my biggest concern is what engine to get. My fear is her getting an engine with fuel management and the engine blows up on her. Is there any engines that are fairly described as bulletproof? I’m not sure what years or engines to look for as I begin my search. Any help would be appreciated.

Looks like I’ll get out of this for under $500. I found a collision shop nearby and they didn’t mind me supplying the parts as long as they got a copy of the receipt. So I visited GM Parts Direct and ordered the parts. The interesting thing is that, while it lists for $413, GM Parts Direct shows you all the dealers in your area and I found that some discount the part. Luckily, a dealer about a half hour away had the part for $305 and the cover for $73. I top of that, they had an extra 20% off AND I got to use some reward points I had from buying my last car through GM and that saved me another $67. So I saved about $280 by handling the parts myself.

Thanks. I will need the cover. Looks like I’m looking at around $500 for the complete assembly. Hopefully I can get out of this for under a grand.

I screwed up today and clipped a parked truck with my outside mirror. Didn't do anything to the parked car but it flipped my mirror back very hard and broke the mirror. The outside of the mirror is damaged as well. I'm trying to figure out whether I should get it fixed out of pocket or go through my insurance. Clearly, it's my fault and my deductible is $1,000. Any idea what it would cost to have the entire mirror assembly replaced? I did some googling and it looks like the part is about $700. If I can get out for around $1500, I probably won't claim it. What do you think? Under or over $1500?

I would definitely challenge GM to make it right. However, given this is a well known problem that doesn’t appear to be as easy of a fix as is performed by the dealer, I would look to do it myself if GM won’t help. I’m sure you’ve read the DIY window repair thread. If I get a leak, my plan is to get someone to do that work for me. It’s pretty involved and something I wouldn’t be comfortable doing, but at some point, someone has to put down a water barrier and these steps seem to be some of the best, most well thought out available.