carkhz316

Any decent scan tool will have cruise condition inhibit parameters displayed either in ECM or BCM data. This can help you isolate why its not working.

Your refrigerant is low. Your symptoms all highlight this. Whether you have an actual leak or have just lost the original charge over the years (about .2-.3 oz per year decay is a thing) remains to be seen. You can connect a gauge set to verify, but you'll really need to evacuate, recharge and monitor for a leak.

Lol, now I know this is a bot. Go away.

Ain't nobody got time for that. The code numbers are sufficient. Google, service info, Chiltons, will all easily elaborate on the definitions. Anyone thats been working on cars for a hot minute will know these very common, as well as global OBD standard, codes with not much else given. You have a wiring issue, as P0449 is a circuit fault. Focus on finding that, and the other two DTCs which are rationality based, will likely be resolved too.

This one is pretty easy. Its basically if you have traction control/ Stabilitrac (RPO JL4) or not. If you do, there'll be a TC button on the dash and an amber indicator in the instrument cluster. Additionally, there will be if there are two separate brake lines at the rear axle coming from the frame, as opposed to one brake line that T's off at the rear axle to feed both wheels.

I second this. I've seen it numerous times.

Yeah, its not an instruction anywhere but instead a unofficial shortcut that some, including myself, use. It does take considerable leverage against the exhaust crossover to allow enough room to clear the pans, but it doesn't strain it any more than normal driveline torqueing of the exhaust pipe and components.

Sorry I didn't see this until now, but it works on both the 6 speed and 10 speeds, as well as all the half tons too.

There's no additional mounting brackets for the grille or headlights. The only difference between the grill mounting is the active grill shutter frame to which the grille attaches too. There is a slight difference between the older and newer shutter frame, but you CAN reuse your existing one. There'll just be a couple clips that won't attach to anything. The headlights fasten exactly the same. The only brackets you'll need are a couple for the bumper.

Were you repairing a previously working AC system? When filling with refrigerant, you need a way to weigh it properly or calculate the amount needed to add to an empty system. Pressures are only relative to temperature and a tool to use for diagnosing. Static pressure means almost nothing in regards to refrigerant charge and will also change with temperature. That said, they're not THAT fickle about exact fill amounts. You have to be considerably over or undercharged for it to impact A/C operation so dramatically.

Its because they have thread locking compound on them. I would bet money that they are actually reusable and not a literal TTY bolt because GM and most other OEMs don't trust techs and the end-user to apply thread locker properly in the same way they don't trust anyone to solder properly (and instead instructing crimps everywhere). Torque To Angle =/ Torque To Yield. If you think dealerships or any technician replaces every 'discard' bolt in every procedure, I have a bridge to sell you.

Need to scan for system-wide DTCs. My bet is a "Loss of Comms" or "Communication Bus [x] off" , but finding out what is taking which network down will be the bigger challenge. Scan tool Topology can help, but just having a good wiring diagram with data line schematics can tell you what modules talk to one another.

Gosh is this certainly true. I've wasted a bit of time with aftermarket sensors causing repeat and new o2-related DTCs. I've had multiple Denso sensors cause faults. The worst part is some of the GM sensors are made by Denso, but I guess the quality control varies between their own and contract parts.

Are you meaning for the parking sensor/ dome light issue or in general? If the latter, I've replaced dozens of BCMs across GMT 800 through K2 trucks for a variety of concerns and failures.

No you're not doing anything wrong. It continues to warm up even while idling, which expands the fluid and continues to be a steady trickle. As long as its not gushing or glugging out, its fine. If you want to confirm proper fluid level: - top it off and run it to minimum check temp, cycle through the gears down to [1] pausing in each position for a couple seconds and ending back in PARK. Pull the check bolt and when its a thin line stream stick it back in and call it a day.