carkhz316

Were you repairing a previously working AC system? When filling with refrigerant, you need a way to weigh it properly or calculate the amount needed to add to an empty system. Pressures are only relative to temperature and a tool to use for diagnosing. Static pressure means almost nothing in regards to refrigerant charge and will also change with temperature. That said, they're not THAT fickle about exact fill amounts. You have to be considerably over or undercharged for it to impact A/C operation so dramatically.

Its because they have thread locking compound on them. I would bet money that they are actually reusable and not a literal TTY bolt because GM and most other OEMs don't trust techs and the end-user to apply thread locker properly in the same way they don't trust anyone to solder properly (and instead instructing crimps everywhere). Torque To Angle =/ Torque To Yield. If you think dealerships or any technician replaces every 'discard' bolt in every procedure, I have a bridge to sell you.

Need to scan for system-wide DTCs. My bet is a "Loss of Comms" or "Communication Bus [x] off" , but finding out what is taking which network down will be the bigger challenge. Scan tool Topology can help, but just having a good wiring diagram with data line schematics can tell you what modules talk to one another.

Gosh is this certainly true. I've wasted a bit of time with aftermarket sensors causing repeat and new o2-related DTCs. I've had multiple Denso sensors cause faults. The worst part is some of the GM sensors are made by Denso, but I guess the quality control varies between their own and contract parts.

Are you meaning for the parking sensor/ dome light issue or in general? If the latter, I've replaced dozens of BCMs across GMT 800 through K2 trucks for a variety of concerns and failures.

No you're not doing anything wrong. It continues to warm up even while idling, which expands the fluid and continues to be a steady trickle. As long as its not gushing or glugging out, its fine. If you want to confirm proper fluid level: - top it off and run it to minimum check temp, cycle through the gears down to [1] pausing in each position for a couple seconds and ending back in PARK. Pull the check bolt and when its a thin line stream stick it back in and call it a day.

The HMI also handles switching of the rear camera input/ output, so the fact that the backup camera works on demand generally rules out the HMI as well. If the HMI fails, you'll still have sound coming from the radio, but the infotainment will be blank or unresponsive. Typically, stations and volume can be controlled from the instrument cluster if that happens. The radio, amp, HMI, CD player, and instrument cluster are on their own dedicated communication bus known as the Media Oriented Systems Transport, or MOST bus. It is fairly easy to diagnose with the proper tooling. GDS2 and some aftermarket scan tools will outline which 'node' or module (of the aforementioned components) are not working properly and help to isolate the defective module or circuit portion. The dealer should have been able to find this out without too much effort.

I don't think I've seen a police car WITHOUT holes [strobes] in the handlamp like that; at least up until recent with full LED lamp assemblies that can perform strobe-like functions.

You're likely on the right track. See below:

Need to enhance. We can't see the individual RGB chipsets yet.

I end up using GDS2 for certain GM vehicle functions, including Brake System Plunger Motor Position Sensor Learn and the Hydraulic Circuit Installation Verification when doing some of the brake repairs on Tx trucks and SUVs. Some scan tools won't run the routine(s) properly. I like to flush the brake fluid on my vehicles periodically, but unless you absolutely need to perform an automated bleed to rid the EBCM of fluid, then I would recommend a manual or pressurized flush/ exchange and call it a day. Do this with the battery disconnected and you won't have to run the aforementioned routines.

It'll be fine. I'm in MN too and most of these trucks with that age and mileage are in that condition. I wouldn't sweat it too much.

TL;DR You're likely fine. The mountain climbing makes it work harder so it ran a bit warmer. Anything under 200* is fine.

Your code reader is either not reading body codes, or its not reading the BCM. It won't have anything to do with the transmission. Unless you have an ABS warning or some other fault, I would disregard and instead pursue the transmission issue as a primary focus.

All my previous trucks didn't start to see cooler hose seepage until 10 years/ 150k miles on average. My current truck was dripping at half that. Thats what I'm underwhelmed by. They're actually quite easy to disconnect. Routing them out and back in a bit more work.