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About carkhz316

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  1. If it is indeed a 4L60 (I know some 2500/3500 vans come with the 4L80), it is most likely the 2-4 band that is worn and slipping. The forward clutch wouldn't be a culprit as it comes on in 1st gear and stays applied through all the gears. The only mechanical change from first to second gear is the application of the band, which stops the input drum and sunshell from turning.
  2. As a snowmobiler, ethanol gas has been the bane of my/ our existence. It's been a thing to avoid it at all costs. I've since adopted the strategy some odd years ago for any seasonal use/ small gas engine; 2 or 4 stroke, and most fuel related issues have been a thing of the past. I encourage others to do the same and stop buying that crappy ethanol gas (cars and trucks are okay, at least if it's a DD).
  3. Whatever man. I'm just trying to help OP fix his STOCK transmission for towing, not drag racing, unless I missed that part somewhere. I don't know why you're getting defensive about anything, but you do you. As an aside, your Sonnax article points to everything BUT the stack-up of clutches being a culprit, pretty much eliminating the need for additional/ aftermarket clutch setups.
  4. Agreed. Also OP: airbags, helpers, etc do not increase the payload of a truck, despite what many seem to believe. They only serve to stabilize a given load. If you've not purchased a slide in yet, perhaps consider the myriad of options available to you in pull behinds/ travel trailers.
  5. The problem is diminishing returns with the amount of frictions and steels. The steels act as a heat sink for the frictions. When there is insufficient mass present in some of the very thin steels available, they are prone to warpage which causes them to slip, defeating the purpose of the additional quantities. The factory only adds one additional friction and steel to the 65 and 70 transmission, vs the 60. This is a very well known issue with the 3-4 clutch pack in the 60/65/70 transmissions.
  6. Is you truck a factory 6.0 setup (like the Sierra C3 or whatever)? If so, you'll have a 4L65, which is virtually the same transmission, save for a few small differences. Most of the kits will be the same between 60/65 and work, but you'll need the 65 kit for the additional 3-4 clutches. In either case, expect things to take longer than you think it will, especially with a transmission rebuild. Different manufacturers of rebuild kits call them different things, depending on what's in the box, but generally speaking you'll want frictions, steels and seals at a minimum. The more comprehensive kits will include the bushings and/ or pistons as well. I wouldn't be too concerned about the bushings, as most are in nearly perfect condition as they see very little wear in most positions; unless your transmission suffered a catastrophic death. I would for sure replace the pump bushing as it is a high wear one. I would get a kit that includes Borg Warner "High Energy Green" frictions for the 3/4 clutches as they are about the best clutches for any stock-ish application. I would stay away from the Z-pac and the ones that add in additional frictions. They sacrifice steel thickness for more friction counts, which is counter intuitive as it causes them to run hotter.
  7. A dirty MAF can erroneously cause those codes. It's an easy check given that you haven't found an apparent vacuum leak via your tests.
  8. Ya this isn't a great idea. Did you have the ignition turned on at any point while the seats were disconnected? If so, it's likely a erroneous fault because of that. Do a few drive cycles and the airbag light will likely go out as long as it wasn't illuminated prior to your seat swap.
  9. You need to find a better body shop. My brother is a PPG and I-CAR certified painter and he has no issues with paint matching. He said only a few OEM colors have some difficulty, but none are white, contrary to popular belief/ myth.
  10. Happy to hear you got it solved.
  11. Check your battery and cables. It sounds like something is loose is everything just shuts down randomly.
  12. Sorry, I didn't see anything mentioned save for the ambiguous "definitely hear the engine not getting oil", whatever that was supposed to mean. If you did indeed hear engine/ valvetrain noise in conjunction with your losses of oil pressure, then that would certainly suggest a oiling malfunction, whether it be due to the oil pump, pickup tube, or internal engine damage. I highly doubt the choice of oil, filter, or OCI have any bearing on it at this time, however.
  13. Check your fuses. Their are separate ones for all the trailer functions.
  14. I think assumptions are being made that it's literal oil pressure issues, and not something less serious. If you had 0 oil pressure, your motor would be clacking like hell. Unfortunately, the oil pressure gauge fails in the same matter as the rest of the stepper motor gauges in the '03+ trucks. I would verify the actual oil pressure before doing anything else.
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