carkhz316

It doesn't matter if the resistor board is shaped differently, so long as it fits and plugs in. That said, it appears to be that yours is a manual climate control, and you're probably finding the replacements for an auto climate control, which are two different parts. There is also different parts for whether you have a center console or not. Make sure to tell them exactly how your truck is setup.

Do you have any aftermarket electronics, such as a remote start or anti-theft device, installed? Beyond that, it sounds like the actual ignition switch may be bad, though its not common with the '03-07 trucks, whereas it was quite common with the '99-02 due to a different style ignition switch.

Fluid Film *CAN* loosen the wax coating, but it's not guaranteed. The remaining portion of mine is holding on just fine. My opinion on it is this: The wax coating will slowly flake and peel off by itself, leaving the frame to rust out. So do nothing to stop that, or spray FF (or equivalent) and it may knock the factory wax coating off, but it will flow and cover up where it was and continue to protect against rust. What's the lesser evil here.

The harsh shifts are due to to PCM commanding maximum line pressure (limp mode of sorts) due to the slippage code, in an effort to mitigate further slippage. This, again, is another a symptom, so we need to find why the PCM is detecting the error. Also, the PCM may inhibit 4th gear and/or TCC lockup during this time too.

I've been there on a snowmobile. I have a notion as to where about you were at; either east of Cooke about 5-10 miles at the lookout, or a bit further east in the switchbacks.

It *should* work, but I'm not sure if the Envoy version uses the 300mm input shaft and TC that the Silverado does. Also, the Envoy may have one less 3/4 friction (like the V6 full sizes received) and as such, won't last as long with the additional power of the V8.

Firstly, how old is the battery? I would charge and have the battery load tested and your charging system checked and proceed from there. If the dead battery happened suddenly, then you likely have a parasitic drain somewhere, though that quickly would point towards something large, like a dome light or the like.

Seconded with davester to see what the indicator lights on the switch are doing. If they flash a few times then stay lit on the appropriate button, then the system is working electrically (and you have a mechanical problem). If the light continues to flash, then there is a fault. You can listen for two distinct sounds when 4WD is commanded. The first will be a quick whirrrring click of the transfer case encoder motor emanating from underneath the truck. The second will be a high pitched whirring drill like sound that lasts a bit longer than the TC. That is the front axle actuator. You can to a quick test of this but unscrewing it from the front differential and plugging it back in to see if the plunger extends and retracts when 4WD is commanded.

Don't do this. It will absolutely, positively rust out even faster. Exactly what I've been doing to mine. I will be redoing the FF sometime next month

I think you'll appreciate the 4.10's over the 3.73, especially if you're hauling heavy like above. As to the 6 speed, I think the extra couple gears certainly helps with towing and hauling. 1 and 2 are much shorter compared to 1st in the 4L80, so that helps a bunch getting started up to speed. It shifts nice and smooth, but firm when it needs to be. While I don't work it often, I feel like 6th is strictly a unloaded highway gear, as any moderate load kicks it out of 6th pretty easy.

Thanks for the compliment. This is the 3rd, 3/4 ton gasser I've owned. Current (above) is a '12 with ~116k miles on it. I'm the second owner (bought it from the original dealer in SW MO) and have had it since May '15. I really like it a lot as it's quiet, smooth, and comfortable to ride in. I'd DD it if gas costs/ mileage weren't of concern. Prior trucks were a '03 ( virtually exact same configuration as my '12), and a 99 2500. Your truck makes me miss my '03. There was absolutely nothing wrong with that truck. It rode perfect (194k), no noise, squeaks or leaks. It was getting rusty, despite my best efforts to keep it clean, and admittedly factored in my decision to upgrade. I hope to stave off rust with this truck with judicious use of Fluid Film, which seems to be working so far.

No doubt there, he's a good guy. I just didn't want OP to fry something inadvertently.

Not the heaviest load with my truck, but one I've hauled regularly, the 5'er with the family. Camper is 8700 dry, so with full water, food, generator, grill, family, luggage, etc, I reckon I'm around the 10k mark. The most I hauled which was one time, 3 miles in the country at a slow speed, was about 8 yards of sand in a dump trailer. I know it was overweight (truck gross towing is 13,900; vs 2500/ yard of sand), but I was in a pickle for such a short distance.

OP, you have a 4L60e. The trans component slippage code can be caused by a number of things. Proper test drive and diagnosis is key to figuring this out. While the lack of fluid flow out the cooler line is disconcerting, I would ignore that for now, as it's only potentially a symptom, and the cause is still going to be within the transmission. What does your truck do from a driveability standpoint? Is it slipping or mis-shifting?

Don't stick a paperclip anywhere. Your burb is OBD 2, and as such, can be read with any compliant code reader/ scan tool. Do as mentioned and get it scanned for codes and data. Additionally, are there any other symptoms present? How is the fluid level and color? Lastly, your truck should have the 4L80e, which has a more rounded- rectangle oil pan, vs the 4L60e that has a square with a corner "cut off"