carkhz316

Those hard parts will interchange. As far as the TC, I'd just stick with one made for your truck, which will be the 300mm variant.

I believe they're T40, but if you're just dropping the pan, you can gently pry the bracket to the side to get the pan down without bending the bracket. It has enough flex to squeeze the pan out beside it.

Good eye. I didn't catch that the first time around. I'm surprised there's been no mention of that. Also looks to be rack and pinion steering on that one as well. I wonder if it's all strictly a gasser thing, or all 2500s.

Okay, is it .180 or .018 AMPS? 180 milliamps is way too much, whereas 18 millliamps is acceptable. It sounds like you need to continue performing your parasitic draw test to isolate the draw. Pull and replace fuses one by one with your Ammeter installed in series (easiest DIY way) while monitoring the current draw.

Have you checked live data? What are the fuel trims or O2 voltages indicating. If rich or lean, this will give you a direction to go in determining if it's a fuel or ignition related misfire.

Is your Check Engine Light illuminated or have you scanned for any codes? How does the engine run when you rev it in neutral?

The turn signals (hazards/ 4 ways) are separate bulbs from the brake lights.

No, because even with complete loss of power to the transmission/ aka "limp mode", it will still shift into reverse as it's a hydraulically controlled shift.

No, that's merely a inspection cover/ access. You would have heard terrible noises if anything got up in there. The only real purpose is to inspect for leaks from the front seal, and flywheel inspection.

A relatively common issue with the 4l60 is a leaking/ worn boost valve. This will cause a loss of or slipping reverse, and low line pressure rise. I often replace them preemptively in ones I've rebuilt. It's an inexpensive part ($20-30) and can be replaced with just a pan drop. I recommend the Sonnax kit. carnau: Unfortunately, that's not a 4l60e pump, but below is. The boost valve is the smaller black one on the left. The larger open hole just to the right of the middle is where the trans filter is stuck into.

X2 about Scanner Danner. It's because of him I've adopted the strategy of using water to find vacuum leaks instead of using carb spray or similar. It's quite effective IMO.

Mice can squeeze through gaps as narrow as a 1/4 of an inch.....so go figure. Stick your finger through the weather strip of a closed door, and you'll see.

Did you check the bulbs?

Ya, I see nothing wrong with the video. It's literally just facts and feeling expressed. GM can go pound sand. The ONLY thing I could see is the reference to them being greedy, but that's about it. I'd say that's hardly something slanderous (or libelous?)

Lol, I understand that. Its just if it were me, I would want the correct one to match/ fit my truck, especially on a truck that new and nice.