carkhz316

But why? I'm not trying to sound like a jerk, but even here in MN if I want to "play" on icy roads or parking lots, the fun lasts for about 10 seconds and then I get bored and realize I have crap to do so I go back to driving like normal. Also, do the K2 trucks not allow the stabilitrac to be disabled via the traction control switch? On mine, if I press and hold the TC button for about 5 seconds, it disables both TC and Stabilitrac.

If the transmission does not shift automatically, but only manually, then it could potentially be a PCM or wiring problem, and/or other sensors such as VSS and TPS. A broken sunshell will cause loss of 2nd, 4th and Reverse.

(exasperated cough), $300 for a electronic lockout. Gee whiz.

Does it start, run for about 1 second, then abruptly turn off? Is the security light flashing at any time during this?

I just installed a Dorman set on a '02 crew cab (and have installed other 99-06 trucks). It comes with every hard line, including the left and right lines on the rear axle out to the wheels. I highly recommend it, as it's full stainless steel too.

OP's is a '02, whereas your link covers the "03+, which have different electronics.

HAha, That B&W will still hit with the ball up and out, which is what all the lazy owners will do anyway.

You're welcome

Yes, if incorrectly engaged it usually ends in a loud bang/ crunch upon starting the engine and won't move or do anything after that. What happened to the original trans, and what do you know of the history of the donor trans? Are you certain it was any good to begin with (190k miles and all).

This is all any CANBUS compliant bulb is........a resistor in the bulb to draw enough current to mimic the voltage drop of a incandescent bulb. There is no communication or data switching or anything; just a voltage drop measurement from the computer.

Or just an appropriately sized resistor in parallel, since thats all a "CANBUS" bulb is.

I'm sure someone will chime in with more specifics, and this applies up to 2019, but simply put: 2500 w/ 6.0: 14 bolt, 10.5" axle 2500 w/ 6.6: 11.5" AAM 3500 (both engines) 11.5 AAM

Kenidoesit Bigg: It sounds like you may have solved it. My bet is since that crank sensor has obviously failed, the pull-down signal is dropping out at higher RPM beyond cranking. When that happens, injection pulse and ignition cut out, hence the start/stop symptoms above. Let us know how it goes.

I check in every couple days and peruse the site. Has anyone noticed the rash of seemingly fake posters on here? The questions are rather straight-forward and typical specific truck problems, but the wording is odd (to me), and they are comprised of "new members" typically (1-2 posts), and the user/ avatar info has a trend: [First name] [Last Name} Location: [US STATE] 1 post Anybody else seeing this?

Indeed. These bots are getting good. Easy to weed out, what with their awesome grammar and 1-2 member posts. LOL