rav3

Looking at another video on an older model, it called out that the relay was built into the printed circuit board...so, not sure if that helps or not but thought I'd mention it. good luck FYI. I bet it's a corroded connector as shown in the above video. Just saying...

Watch this video to see if it's of any help to you. I doesn't show it exactly but you might find it helpful.

@MikeBMW......I like it. Since you haven't installed yours, maybe you could send it to me & I'll see how it does!

Has anyone installed the longer Crewcab side-steps on a Double Door 1500? I noticed on the newer crew cabs, GM side-steps are about a foot longer past the cab so you can stand on the end to reach stuff in the cargo box. I was wondering if you can install the longer Crewcab side-steps on the shorter Double door truck to get that added few inches to stand on to access the box at the cab end. I realize that shorter Double Door only has (3) mounting spots and the CrewCab has (4), so might require an additional mounting bracket. Any thoughts on if this could be done easily or not. Appreciate any info

If all door locks work, you probably have a Tail Gate actuator that weak or just dead. or a break in the connection wire or the connector plug.

I would assume it's same as the door locks. Do door locks work?

I'm curious...have you replaced with a GM/AC Delco part?

Yes..my bad. I ment ethanol free. I corrected it above. Thanks for the catch. I use the ethanol free gas in all my mowers, string trimmers, leaf blowers, etc. After I retired, I drove for our local bmw dealership and we were instructed to put the high test ethanol free in all the bimmers.

Most ethanol free gasoline where I live (NC) is a "high test" grade...92-93 not 88. Any ethanol free gas is fine to run in your truck. BMW dealership here actually recommends it for their cars.

I think you have a bad module from the video I watched the other day. Watch this video, I know it's long, but see if you can see what he finds.

@JimCost & Grumpy....Thanks for the education on these newer oil pumps. I was not aware of this sophistication & how it has changed over the years. It all makes sense now, for this Old (retired) Jarhead. You guys have educated me well. Another little item in the mental library. Now, armed with your information, I found this video that really explains how it works.

Thanks to both of you. This allows me to understand why the pressure changes. Next question. Why? Why does the engine need a 50% increase in oil pressure above 3500 RPMs

Very interesting info. Can I assume then that our 5.3 L engine has a electrical controlled variable pressure oil pump?

Can anyone explain to me how the oil pressure is regulated on my '17 Silverado 5.3 V8? Under normal running RPMs, the oil pressure guage shows approx. 40 psi. However, when I'm going downhill with my brakes on, the Hill Decent braking comes on & it shifts the transmission down to help slow the truck down. Once the engine hits about 3500 RPMs, the oil pressure jumps to approx 60 PSI. I'm curious how this is done. I assume that there's an electronic valve that turns off the pressure bypass valve. But that would mean that the oil pump is producing the 60 PSI all the time, with a relief valve reducing it. Can anyone explain what is actually going on inside the engine for this.

I'm just curious, what engine & how many miles? I'll assume it an automatic. Have you thought of cleaning all the grounds as a simple thing to do to at least eliminate that possibility? They are a known issue that causes several electrical issues.