rav3

What CamGTP said BUT I would suggest doing this instead of pill flip, as heat KILLS ATF.

You didn't say what year it is. I have a '17 5.3 6l80e & used the Range AFM delete for a while to stay in V8 mode. Then I got a local tuner to preform a HPTune on my 6l80e & love it. He did a AFM delete, torque matching between engine & transmission, removed converter slip and mild engine tune that helps the transmission. Gears shift better, at specific speeds, no hunting for gear, no 2 gear down shifts, no spark plug miss feel. Drives like a different truck. I highly recommend it.

Yes, I thought so too. Cheaper & no moving parts. Actually makes it like the old 4L80E transmission. It's what I replaced my pill flip with

You might try this 1st. 1. Disconnect both transmission lines from the trans thermostat. 2. With compressed air, blow out the transmission cooler lines, blowing thru the return line with a jug container on the outlet line, and see if any debris is in the jug. I used a clear plastic drink bottle to catch the fluid & then looked to see if it caught any debris. Note from AI.....On your 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 5.3L with the 6L80E, the transmission fluid flow is: Upper cooler line at the transmission = Hot fluid OUT to the radiator/transmission cooler. Lower cooler line at the transmission = Cooled fluid RETURN back into the transmission. At the radiator/auxiliary cooler, the fluid typically flows: Out of the transmission through the upper line. Through the radiator heat exchanger. Through the auxiliary cooler (if equipped with the factory towing package). Back to the transmission through the lower return line.. Then with the thermostat removed, I installed a thermometer defeat (bypass) that bought off Amazon. This one has no moving parts.

Did you put the transmission in neutral?

Check the securing nuts on the power distribution cap. I saw a video a while back where on of the power line terminals was loose causing this issue. Another thinking is to check you grounds. A couple of videos on YouTube showing them. Check the simple things first. https://youtu.be/LPiBKMJ5Lb8?feature=shared

Have you looked at your brake vacuum pump? On the 2017 Chevy 5.3L, a failing mechanical brake vacuum pump can cause excess oil consumption. The pump relies on engine oil for lubrication and a seal. If internal seals fail, the pump will draw oil directly out of the crankcase and push it into the brake booster or intake, where it is burned.Key Symptoms of a Failing Vacuum Pump. Hard or stiff brake pedal: Loss of vacuum assist makes braking effort significantly harder.Oil in the vacuum line: Disconnecting the vacuum line to the brake booster will reveal wet oil inside the hose.Noisy operation: A clicking, grinding, or loud tapping sound coming from the front/driver's side of the engine.Smoke from the tailpipe: Burning oil as it cycles through the intake.

Go to that link again & scroll the picture. The black on is on the same item. Just make sure it's for your type of door. Crew cab or double door.

On a 2014 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3L engine, Bank 2 is located on the passenger side (right side, when sitting in the truck). Bank 2 contains cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8, with the catalytic converter/sensors often on that side.

I believe you have to buy the complete part. Another option is to have it wrapped. Chevrolet GM Genuine Parts Rear Driver Side Door Window Belt Reveal Molding | 23227178 | Chevrolet Parts

@z45....yes, I agree with you. However, being a retired tooling engineer that has worked directly with the Tier 1 supplier engineers, I know how they work. If it is an "OE" supplier I will use those parts. But when it comes to fluids and I don't have the option of knowing the specs of a fluid, I default to certifications. There i know it at least meets the minimum standard. I also know how marketing words things to make you think it's OK but no data to back it up. Read the article that New dude linked about multiplieds this is above. It sort of explains my doubts. Not trying to change your mind, just wanting to explain the difference. I just don't want to take that risk at this time in my life

Thanks, that was good article. Many on the Chevy forums say "Valvoline Multi Life Multi-Vehicle" ATF is Dexron VI. I'm not sure that it is actually approved Dexron VI fluid (But recommended for Dexron VI). Two different thinks. (Approved versus Recommended) I'll stick with the Approved/Certified/Licensed Dexron VI ATF.

Your truck is 8-9 years old now with ****** miles. Lots of things can co wrong. If you haven't bled tge brakes moisture can get into the the piston area and corrode it, causing this issue. A pinched or internal collapse of brake line case cause it. No silver bullet. I'd remove caliper & remove piston & check bore & piston for crusty. Also how is the seal on it?