rav3

You're the BOSS!

pickmeup......I love that!

I have been a car guy for over 55 years, having several Chevy Silverados. Can someone tell me what's the difference between these (2) trucks beside some styling?

@Cwildman......1st off, do you know what real differential you have? GM put a couple different housing in these trucks. Check the number of bolts holding the cover on to start with so you know which one fits. Personally, of all the cars I've had over the last 50+ years, I never had a rear differential gasket go bad & leak. The only reason you's need a spare is if you plan to remove the cover to drain the fluid. That's when you want to replace it. Rock auto has several brands to choose from. Also you can go online & order from gmpartsnow. For my vin they show (2) different differentials; so you need to know what yours is. This place only sells GM parts, here about $22 + shipping. Hope this helps.

I thought I'd add to this thread, since I've been following it recently, and decided to purchase the "Newer 2019+" fill tube. I saw where the current cap opening would be an issue for adding oil. I ordered the Fill Tube here . It took about 3-4 weeks to get, so it may have been affected by the covid19 shut downs. Anyway, it came in & I installed it today. As mentioned before, it's not "stiff" tight in the existing opening and can be wiggled around. However, once in (it clicks to a snap lock" you can't get it back off or at least I didn't force it, as I didn't want to break it. The existing Cap fits fine, so I think all is well. Here's my pictures.

Just an up-date to this thread; my '17 Silverado 1500 owners manual calls out a transmission & transfer case fluid change at 45k miles under the severe usage. Here's a copy n paste from owners manual. "In addition to the normal service schedule, some vehicles require service more often. Severe service is for vehicles that are: Mainly driven in heavy city traffic in hot weather. . Mainly driven in hilly or mountainous terrain. . Frequently towing a trailer. . Used for high-speed or competitive driving. . Used for taxi, police, or delivery service" I feel this is a better service schedule than 'normal usage'. I actually do a 'Drain & Fill' on all transmissions, front & rear differentials & transfer case by 30k on these 1500 series trucks. I do a drain & flush on auto transmission about every 10-15k miles after the 30K mark. But this is my Life Time schedule.

@Jrowl33.......FYI, with the post you will find that everyone has their own "Taste" in ATF's. For me, it needs to be a fluid that says it meets "Dexron VI". If it has the "r" (registration mark) for the Dexron name, it means that it has been tested & approved by GM. Otherwise, it's not approved by GM. Many manufactures will advertise that the meet or exceed this Dexron VI specification/requirement. Even Walmart's Super Tech is a GM approved Dexron VI. "In my opinion", IF it meets the spec it's good to use in your truck. Will different suppliers of Dexron VI fluids actually make your transmission last longer has been a LOOOONG discussed topic with MANY different opinions. Is the higher price for , say "Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid" at $17.50/qt better or will it make your transmission last longer than "Super Tech Full Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid" @ $6.62/qt? Or ACDelco 10-9395 Dexron VI Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 gal @ $21.88 ($5.47/qt)? For me, I use the above GM ACDelco Dexron VI @ $5.47/qt on Amazon. The bigger question is how many miles are on your truck & how often do you change the fluid? Your 2015 truck probably has between 50-75k on it now. Go ahead & do a drain & fill (about 5-6 qts) or about 50% of capacity (I think the speed holds about 12 qts), I find it a whole lot easier to suck out the fluid from the fill tube, approx 5 qts, & replace; I do this about every 10k miles. The filter will last well over 100k, so no need to go to trouble of dropping the pan. THIS IS MY OPINION ONLY! Just use a certified Dexron VI fluid. Don't for get to do a "drain & Fill" on your transfer case (also Dexron VI), as well as front & rear differentials, which take a 75W90 GL5 synthetic gear oil. Just my .02 cents....Good luck with your choice of ATF choice and hope this was helpful.

Could you show a picture of your seat area that you're asking about?

@sk......Let me clarify the FNCing. It's not a coating. It's a "Nitriding" process where nitrogen will penetrate the subsurface of the metal about .0002" to .0005 (that's tenths) & makes it about Rc 60-65 on the Rockwell hardness scale. They have found that it provides 'some' benefit to have the rotors last longer & possibly not warp (as much) which led to lesser warranty work/replacements. You can do this with a gas Nitrating or a solution bath Nitrating. My tool shop had our own heat treat department & we did this all the time until the Liquid nitriding became an environmental issue & the cost to dispose of the material. I personally believe the "coated" rotors would resist rusting more, especially on the internal vanes of the rotors, wheather the were nitrided (FNC) or not. Just my .02 worth.

This does bring up an interesting question 'for me' anyway. Who does make OE Rotors for GM? Here's what I found when I did a search. GM OE Brake Rotor Now "click" on the link for "Buy Parts". Then when you get to that page..'Click' on "Find online" It will bring up (5) online sources. Did you guess right?..https://www.acdelco.com/shop/brakes#!?productLines=17

Picked it up this evening since it'll be next week before parts come in. Again, the service advisor said it wouldn't hurt anything. When i started it up the 'check engine light' was off. I guess they cleared the code. Drove home & not light came up on the cluster. You'd think if the cat(s) where bad they'd trip the check engine light again. Strang. I would of thought GM would have them clear the code & see if it came back before replacing the cats @ $1300 part. That's ok. At least I'll have brand new cats.

P0420 UPDATE: Dropped the truck off at the Chevy dealer this morning and just received a call from the service writer; He says it needs new cats; they will have to order them as they do not stock them & it will take about 4-5 days to get in. I can pick the truck back up & drive it until the parts come in. He said it wouldn't hurt the truck. Is this a good statement? BTW, all covered by the warranty. I knew that but glad to hear those words as at dealer costs, as I figure it, will cost about $1300 in parts & probable 2 hours labor ($250-$300) = $1700 including tax.

Evening guys. My 2017 Silverado does not have the front license plate holder. Can anyone that has one mounted in the front, how it is attached? Does it snap on or are there some fasteners? I know many don't like these but I wanted to mount my veterans plate on it, so wondered how it mounts ^& if anyone wants to get ride of theirs's.

Thanks for info Will. However I checked their voltage output & they are functioning correctly.

What would cause this with only 31K miles? Would there be any noticeable driving/running issues from this?