I just went out & checked my ECU. From what I can see, the ECU is only held into the plastic holder by maybe 4 plastic snaps; 2 top & I assume 2 below. The plastic holder is mounted under the spare battery tray. It would be pretty easy (if you knew what you were doing) to just undo the (3) connectors & pop the ECU out. Man, that's crazy. Making a steel box to surround the ECU & plastic bracket and the (3) connectors would not be an easy job. My hat is off to you for coming up with your steel box solution. Now you have my mind going on some kind of retainer, not to make it bullet proof, but to make it more difficult to get at. Maybe some type of strap that goes over the (3) connectors & the plastic holder bracket. I'm thinking of something like metal zip ties or some other metal surrounding strap. Just thinking out loud. With all the aluminum heat sink fins on the ECU, enclosing the unit might be asking for an over heating issue. Just sayin......
Well, that should work very good. Can you imagine the look on their face when they open the hood & see that box?
Ok, that makes sense. Unfortunately, most of us don't have that at hand, so will need look at other options. I guess you were aware of the thefts and did this to help keep it safe?
What's a cable lock for the hood? Can you post a link?
Thanks much. I wasn't aware of this. My truck in a '17 that I bought in Feb of this year as a Certified Truck, so should be covered under warranty. I'll ask that this be done at next oil change service. Thanks again. I'll print this out for the service writer.....
Can you post a link on where you got the box?
WOW! what a difference it makes. I replaced my backup lights & high mount cargo lights with LED's from Amazon here iBrightstar LEDs I also bought & installed the "Diode cross wire" so that the LEDs on my trailer mirrors, the high mount cargo lights & my bed LEDs would come on when I put the truck into reverse or turned on the cargo light. I now feel like 'Tim the Tool Man Taylor' with MORE POWER! With all that light, it's almost blinding if your standing behind the truck at night. I also turned on setting for the time delay on the lights when I get out & now ALL the lights come on. I bet they can see me from any flying plane going over head! I'd post a picture but it's too bright for the camera.
Can you post some pics of it?
Is there anyway to change the settings on the center information screen when backing up at night? My '17 LTZ screen is blinding to the eye when backing up at night. Even in the daytime, the colors are distorted due to the brightness. Have I missed an adjustable setting somewhere?
Come on guys. As much brain trust on this forum, surely one has a bright idea to "slow down the stealing process". Anyone know how they open the door? ECU is located under the hood on drivers side, just below the "add'l battery" spot, with (3) connectors. I assume they only remove one of the connectors to allow starting. Anyone know which one? I saw on youtube where a company makes a Hood Lock for a Jeep. Wonder if anyone knows of one for our Silverado's? Jeep hood lock add-on. Or some way to disable the hood release under the steering wheel. Would be cool to disable the lever inside & add an electrically actuated pull relay actuator. Just thinking out load. If they couldn't open the hood they couldn't get to the ECU. Sort of like adding a trunk release solenoid but to the hood cable. trunk release unit I guess the other option is HAVE GOOD INSURANCE! But I love the truck that I have.
I wonder if there's a way to put a lock on the ECU connector, at least so it takes longer to try to disconnect it & install the thief's box. Or a lock on the hood latch...or something. Wonder how they get into the locked cab?
WOW! that's incredible, in less than, what 2 mins & they drive off. Anyone know how they're doing it?
My 2017 LTZ came with the MAX tow package, Code "NHT" - MAX TRAILERING PACKAGE: * 9.76 REAR AXLE * TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER *ENHANCED COOLING RADIATOR * REVISED SHOCK TUNING * HEAVIER DUTY REAR SPRINGS AND INCREASED RGAWR. & my mirrors (upper glass) are heated, with auto dip in reverse. Check your RPO codes in glove box. My mirror Code "DQS" - is "CHROME TRAILERING MIRRORS W/ PWR GLASS, PWR FOLD/MAN EXT, HEAT, TURN SIGNAL, LED RR GUIDANCE LAMPS, LED AMBER LIGHTS, AND MEMORY-EQUIPPED UPPER GLASS" I can not for sure say that your mirrors do. From the picture, it looks like your truck is a LT model. LTZ package came with lots of chrome, that's why my mirror Code calls out 'chrome', as shown above. The sales brochure I have says that the Max Trailing option on the LT comes with "outside heated power adjustable vertical camper mirrors". I'm not sure what the RPO code is for the non-chrome ones. There's a link that's pinned in this forum where you can email your VIN # to GM & request a copy of the RPO sheet. I did & they sent me a PDF of everything my truck came with & the price of each. Hope this helps. EDITED: I cut n paste from another post: Old post but I thought I'd add my experience I sent an email to [email protected] and put "2018 Sierra 4x4 build sheet request (put vin number here)" in the subject. You get a reply within three business hours with a nice PDF of your build sheet. All codes listed and descriptions beside the ones installed on your truck.
WOW! I wasn't aware of that. I would of thought that the drive shaft was designed to be at least 1.5 to 2x of what the max speed of the truck was, not the other way around. What's the limit on these trucks? I have not read of any driveshaft issues other than maybe the vibration coming from the Universal joints. BMW's doesn't mfg their DS to be serviceable (replaceable U joints) because of their precision balance. Makes me wonder how well balanced the GM's shafts are.
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