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dna9656

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  • Name
    Doug
  • Location
    WA
  • Drives
    04 ZR 5 I sold the avalanche

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  1. Sounds to me like it's running a bit cool. 195F is the neighborhood you want to be in. Get a calibrated thermometer and measure your coolant. 195 is where oil likes to be....
  2. Did you unlock the passenger side door with the key? My 06 Avalanche has an anti theft thing in it. Disconnecting the battery for a while apparently resets the thing. Listen to Richard; he's pretty sharp.
  3. I bought a new lower line. I crawled underneath to see what tolls I'd be needing only to learn the cooler lines connect way up high on the tranny; it looks like the tranny has to come down to get the line out. Another thing; what about using a rubber hose between the old line and a few inches off the new line I bought? Back in the day I fixed cracked tranny lines with hose clamps and rubber hose....
  4. I'm having a hard time with the lower tranny cooler line. I have replaced the fitting on the radiator twice and it still leaks. I am beginning to think it's the radiator. I have a camera I can put down there and actually see what's leaking. I have to find it and put it on a charger.
  5. On my '04 SR 5 the lower transmission fluid cooler line will not stop leaking. I replaced the radiator and I also installed new fittings for the engine oil and tranny fluid cooler lines. I have replaced the lower tranny fitting twice now and it still leaks. I just realized it could be the radiator proper. I'll have to get my Harbor Freight bore scope camera out. Any exp. you folks have on this would be appreciated!
  6. Agreed with Richard however; coating the back of the brake pads with anti squeal spooge is such a standard thing your mechanic should have done this first. I mean it's elemental. Find a new mechanic....
  7. Check the part numbers in Chevy's Parts Catalog
  8. I just installed a Walker Y pipe cat cat assembly on my '04 SR 5. I kept the muffler and tail pipe as they are ok. I bought several so called "Factory Service Manuals" on Ebay, they were ALL the SAME, even had the same miss spelled Folder names and the same MISSING information. I got my money back on all of them too. Missing info: NOTHING on the exhaust system, no chapter titled "Emissions"; I'm sure other info is missing too. I have owned several 1st gen S trucks, 2 door pickups, 2 and 4 door Blazers, even an Astro Van. The 1st gen is by far my preferred truck, the 2nd gens are a PIA to work on; everything is shrunk down to the point you can't get your hands to the work or you just can find any direct line of sight to the work; you GOT to have a light of some kind to see what your doing. They made it smaller yet it weighs in at over 2 tons! I had to raise the truck and lower the tranny cross member to be able to snake\screw in the y pipe assembly. I need a rubber hanger on the cat and I'll replace both of them because the intermediate one is damaged. Where I got delayed was the "Exhaust Flange Gasket" or "donut"; we called them donuts back in the day. It has a metal insert I had never seen before; I didn't know what it was for. They weren't made like this the last time I fooled around with exhaust (back in the day it was more affordable to pay a muffler shop nowadays; I just don't see the value in paying $1,000.00 for this kind of maintenance) replacement the donuts had no such thing. I called around; NAPA, Auto Zone, they didn't know. NAPA says it goes in ONE WAY.... Fel-Pro the maker is on Central time (I'm on the US West Coast; Pacific Time) so they had gone home for the day. There were no instructions on the package or the web site. I figured it out when I tried to install the new ones... the old ones fell out! Up there in that dark they sure blended in, I never saw them before they hit the ground. I thought the PO (if for any reason you wanted to require a license for some one to own a wrench this guy would be the poster child for such an effort) just left them out, he would be too cheap to buy the parts. This is the guy that just couldn't tell me he removed the cat and that was why the CE light was on; he just allowed me to believe the O2 sensor(s) were bad. You could tell it was very recent work, the welds were new and the smoke from the welding was still on the shiny, new pipe. I felt I had to replace/reinstall the cat as I am moving back to a county that has a emissions test every year but more than that the CE light was on all the time and I'd never know (unless I checked it all the time) If I had a new code to deal with. Besides I like things the way they were meant to be, reliability is higher, it tends to run smoother; for me it's just less trouble. I used to "fix up" my cars, and that starts a process of more adjustments, more this, more that and I just don't have time for that anymore. More power to those that enjoy it, it's just not for me any more. As I mentioned we're moving soon (less than 3 weeks) and I'll be able to change out the T chain and gear, install a Hi Volume oil pump, replace some seeping seals, put slotted and drilled brake s on it all in the heated comfort of my new shop (2.5 car) separate from the house, it even has a rest room! Over the winter I hope to get the truck to the point I can trust it. I'll clean all the grimy, greasy crap off the front undersides. I need some obscure dash (the filler panel to the left of the radio) parts, tires, the Armor All on the leather seats makes them squeak like a 1000 mice. The carpet has curled away from the firewall. The stereo (a Dual) install was so fouled up it has to be re-accomplished. There were lights on the roof; they were held in place on an after market roof rack that's attached to the OEM luggage rack. The cabling for these lights passed though the driver's door!
  9. So when you by a radiator for your '04 be sure to get new fittings for the oil cooling side (driver's side) of the radiator. Mine came with new fittings for the trans fluid cooling but not the oil cooling. The bottom half of the fan shroud is held in place by 3 snap tabs; to disengage the tabs use a medium sized common screwdriver, push it into the tab on the forward side and rotate your screwdriver, this will disengage the tab. When reinstalling the lower shroud be sure to have all the cooling lines fully installed before hand. The lower shroud half fits into into a plastic piece that's screwed into the core support. Do not attempt to install the lower half of the should until the radiator is in place (you'll break that piece) and then the fan installed. Leave the coolant hoses for last. The oil cooling lines will prolly be a little shorter than they were when new because the rubber hose portion has likely shrunk due to age. If the insert isn't at 90 degrees to the fitting EXACTLY it's not going to fit into it's "home" I had to remove the fitting, insert the line and install the clip, THEN screw the fitting into the radiator. The fittings have 2 O rings, 1 inside and 1 outside, For me it's hard to pick a replacement O ring because (mainly) if it isn't correct you wasted the effort because the fitting won't accept the pipe or it'll go right in and not seal and now you have a mess to clean up. So get the new fittings, you'll be ahead in the long run.
  10. Make a wedge (think door stop) about 10: long and push it inot the upper aft corner of the either front door. Use the insuing gap to insert a unbent coat hanger with a hook on the end and catch the door lock on the same door your working with and unlock the door. Get a battery isolator.
  11. So far as your ticking lifter goes find my previous posts on Oil pick up tube O ring replacement. I didn't have a AFM engine. I had an 06 5.3. You obviously got more problems than a cavitating oil pump.
  12. The block of wood method is a bad method, it bends the face (the part of the door where the hinge is mounted) of the door, then the weight of the door pushes against the hinge and the face bends again, soon it's like the bottom of an oil can and the only way to fix it is with shims. shims can make up for the bent face. Best thing to do is replace the hinge pin bushings before they get real bad. The reason the detent on the door don't work is because the door spring is too weak It needs to be longer or stronger.
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