Hard to believe that one missing bolt on a shock is causing your problem, I mean the shock does not hold the vehicle up, the spring does. Usually a loose shock is cupping on the tire, or wheel bounce or hop. Alignment is control arm, control arm bushings, broken spring, ball joints, tie rod, Idler arm, shims.
Remember, when you inspect a front end(steering/suspension) get the vehicle up on jack stands. Locate the stands on the FRAME and not under the wheels. The idea is to get the wt. of the truck off the steering and suspension parts, THEN inspect as the parts will be free of any other influences.
I bet you can get a pretty good heavy duty clutch at NAPA, Eaton makes good clutches. Used to be a clutch called "Rev-Loc"; I think they became "Center Force". They put little weights on the fingers of the clutch (where the throw out bearing contacts the pressure plate) the theory being the centripetal force was increased with the weights to make the clutch engage with greater force that could be produced a diaphragm type clutch spring (works like the bottom of an old style oil can); I say this only because I have seen this type of clutch with the weights used on a GM product. Chrysler used to use coil springs, I think Ford used to use diaphragm style springs but am unsure what's going on nowadays. When I was in the service in Vehicle Maintenance the M-35 trucks (6 X 6) used a a clutch plate that wasn't like a disk but more like petals of a flower, I see that's still considered the last word in heavy dutiness.
I suppose the "no return" fuel system was easier on the pump? For years and years we had low pressure pumps up under the hood; and I know it's easier to "push a fluid that to draw a fluid, so ok, build a better pump and draw the gas, that way changing the pump and\or filter would be a WHOLE LOT less complicated.... I bought a 06 avalanche Z71 with 80 k on the clock. It had issues. The oil pressure sending unit was original, it had the screen in it. I tried overhauling the instrument module without any luck (change the gasge motors and replace burned out LEDs. How is it home lighting LEDs last thousands of hours but the ones in cars just a few years? I think GM got pretty cheap there in the early 2000s. Replaced the rear axle tube seals, changed the lube in the rear axle to synthetic. Replaced the rotors and brake pads all the way around. both axle hubs up front. Complete replacement of all steering components except the pitman arm and center link. Driver's side valve cover, all the rockers, oil pump, the infamous O ring on the oil pick up tube, the oil pickup tube, timing chain and gears, and the T-chain cover, oil pan gasket duh, 2 ignition coils, all the plug wires and plugs, universal joints. I replaced the driver's seat foam and cover, radio, it had an after market radio in it, I think the used car dealer I bought it from swapped it out for his own car. The truck had a THUMP THUMP stereo in it; I'm too old for that kind of stuff. There was a speaker baffle in place of the mid gate, it held 2 giant speakers and the amp. Sold that stuff and bought a junk yard mid gate. At one time the truck had those lights installed, you know the ones that blind anyone that's in front of them? The wiring was left but the lights were gone, there were 2 little boxes that went with those lights, they were left installed. The 4 X 4 Z71 had 22" X really wide tires on it, when going down the freeway the truck would get into the rut(s) and the car would follow the ruts, it was like one side of the truck was in a rut and the truck would follow that rut. I sold that stuff and got some stock sized Chevy aluminum wheels and new tires. I got the truck aligned when I rebuild the front end, another "duh". I replaced the fuel pump because it was shaky, and (in front of the intake) AIR sensor. I had the usual 4L60 transmission issues, thunking and what not so I asked around for the best tranny shop in the county and took it there. I had the shop upgrade the tranny to the Escalade/SS spec. tranny (4L 70). This adds more steels and clutches and other components, it was a $500 upgrade. While there I scrounged some minor parts and hardware from the shop's junk pile. I noticed a LOT of old transfer cases piled around; I asked why and was told the pump in the transfer case wears a hole in the back of the case and the tranny fluid leaks (gets pumped) out thus the innards burn up due to a lack of lubrication. I had never been in a transfer case before. So far as I knew it was like a Swiss watch inside full of tiny parts and such. Well it isn't. The tranny shop uses a thin steel (sheet metal) shield between the pump and the case, I went better and bought a Merchant Automotive cast aluminum part, they warranty for life that it's do it's job so I went with that. It was pretty easy to install actually, so I would recommend anybody with that transfer case do that. I installed a water pump, power steering pump, A/C belt tensioner, the alternator, all hoses, a battery, the current sensor that's on the negative battery cable. There was a blue aluminum spacer between the AIR sensor and the intake; it was one of those "increase your horsepower and get super gas mileage with this super-duper thing. It being there made installing the water pump a real pain. AC Delco lists 2 water pumps for the '06 5.3; one fit a hair better and the other because the upper outlet was clocked slightly differently but the real problem was the AIR spacer. I didn't all this in one month, I got the truck in September of '16. Ah; the adventures of buying a used truck. Had I known more about this particular truck and the shyster I bought it from I would have bought elsewhere he also promised me more conventionally sized wheels and tires; he dragged his feet about the promise until I got sick of it all, part of his business model I'm sure. So, note to self: get all promises in the contract and get them fulfilled before cash exchanges hands.
I bet it's more pronounced when the steering wheel is turned huh? You got a bad CV joint. Easy repair if you got the tools. You may need a length of chain to pull the half shaft out. I used a slide hammer, made a hook from a nail, installed the chain on a wheel stud, held it there with a lug nut, put my hook through the chain and aggressively operated the slide hammer. It puller the half shaft right out. BE SURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS BE THEY IN A HAYNES, OR OTHER MAINTENANCE MANUAL THAT'S SPECIFIED FOR YOUR VEHICLE.
The biggest reason not to use the cheaper one is because it's not specified by the maker; the 2nd reason is do you really want to depart from the maker's specs on your brake system? The first time you feel the brake pedal go to the floor will be the last time you play brake systems engineer. Trust me.
I imagine there is a relay (or more than 1) is involved. Any COMPETENT shop would use a trouble shooting chart from GM or at least a generic one. Usually the first culprit is a bad starter circuit; ie, the problem lies within the starter circuit, there could be LOTS of reasons it won't start like a roll over switch, this switches turn off the (at least) the ignition if the truck rolls over, this way the engine won't continue to run upside down a condition the engine wasn't intended to operate in. To know all the possibilities and to check them against specs. a professional mechanic will use a check list from the manufacturer or tech data supplier. get a check list and a VOM (volt, ohm meter) Cheap ones can be had for under $10.00, get a better one; they will usually survive a few drops.
An auto recycler has an Interchange manual, they can tell you.
It doesn't matter what the tech says he's used to, what does GM say about how it's supposed to work? It's supposed to work like the MFR says it's supposed to work.
Advice: never use a used electrical part on a new part when it's a pain to get to. Like a used fuel pump float on a new pump assembly. The only time a fuel pump or float go bad is right after you fill the GD tank right? With fuel tanks always use all new parts unless you wanna go back into the tank....
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