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About dna9656

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  1. I replaced ALL the lifters, still got that GD clack. Well I guess I'll live with it. I know that it isn't the rockers. Tomorrow I'll pick up the new valve cover gaskets and grommets, install them and call it good until they (the powers that be at my job) put me in a non-pay status and if the weather is good I'll go ahead and replace the oil pump, timing chain and T-chain cover, the oil pick up tube, water pump, power steering hoses, and what ever else I find that is FUBAR.
  2. OK I did the inspection. For some reason I can't post pics here from a url. I copied the URL deleted the ends and pasted the http// and so on, result: no pics. No sign of water under the valve covers. I do not have the CASTEC heads. Replaced all rockers on driver's side this evening, will do other side tomorrow and put the plugs back in and hook up the coils without installing the valve covers. i will let it get warm and see if I have a loose rocker. I bought a new torque wrench last Sunday, a Kolbalt brand at Lowe's; 20 to 100 ft lbs i beleive. it has a ONE year warranty while the comparable Craftsman has a 90 day warranty. The Kobalt has a collar on the handle that is the lock it's much like a quick disconnect on your air hose. It always locked unless you pull the collar back to change the setting, The wrench has a very nice, professional feel to it. Comes with a case and instructions. Very Nice.
  3. The 2006 Chevy 5.3. I learned that for the purposes I have (installing rocker arms) you don't HAVE to have TDC. For the intake side rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker is just short of closed. This will put the in tale lifter on the cam's base circle (no load on the rocker from the valve spring or opening forces from the cam) tighten the bolt to 22 ft. lbs. and do the same for the exhaust valve but use the intake valve the same way. You're not timing the motor or the valve train, you're just installing the non adjustable rocker arms. Word of advice: use a TRUSTED torque wrench.
  4. The Haynes book says to put a screwdriver in the cylinder to find TDC. They caution you to guard the tip of the tool so the cylinder wall doesn't get scratched but also to mind the angle if the tool so it doesn't get jammed, well that's all and good provided the spark plug holes were drilled down toward the piston but they aren't; they are drilled horizontally. How are you folks finding TDC? Back in the good old days there was a mark on the harmonic balancer and a pointer on the timing chain cover but I guess that's just to easy these days...
  5. Correction: I replaced ONE rocker on the #1 cylinder and both rockers on the #7 cylinder. It was a while ago. I have a full set of new Melling rockers I'm curious; should I replace them all while I'm in here? I think so, I'm not returning them to rock auto and otherwise would go to waste.
  6. Thanks for the encouraging word; all I need now are some deer, antelope, and some clear skies! If you get the reference please let me know! My weekend work was hijacked by new sheet goods in the front bath room. "Sheet goods" are roll vinyl flooring for you that might not know; but I do know for certain all you guys out there with a wife understand what a hijacked weekend means. I'll try again to do do those inspections on the heads this week.
  7. I took a closer look at the rockers I removed. One has a slop in the trunion, I can move it (the part the stud goes through) with my fingers; the other seems tight but, as you know tight with your fingers isn't tight under load. Are all the re-manufactured heads available been checked out for porosity? None of the sites I have been to mention it, they say the have been vacuumed checked but they have been saying that for years on all heads, when they say they did a vacuum test aren't they talking about valve sealing? I had always assumed so. I have heard of porous transmission cases but not heads. Seems to me that this isn't an issue of wear ; it's an issue of poor quality that the manufacture should correct. I get that it would be HUGELY expensive to pay some one the labor and parts costs (those costs would far exceed the cost of the parts) so they just "stiff" the public for it. I seem to remember the bankruptcy court relieved GM of all warranty claims for certain year model vehicles. So what happened to those that bought extended warranty(s) (not third parties) from GM? Castec sure has a crappy QA department. Have stopped the oil pan project and am proceeding as you have recommended. I am going to pull the covers off and inspect. its been a good long time since i did the motor flushing, I'm pretty sure that if i have water leaking through the heads it'll be evident. My spark plug wires (after market; Beldon) seem a little short to hook them up with the coil pack tied up; I think i tried that before but the wires were too short. Bungy cord I got! Will try again. Pushing on the side of the rocker, is that with the engine running or stopped? If it's a "small amount" of coolant is it something that can be lived with of is it defiantly going to destroy the engine? I sure appreciate your help on this matter!
  8. OK I got the dreaded "706" on the right head. What I don't have is creamy whitish sh_t under the oil filler cap, never did. I forgot to mention what I found under the valve (the one that has to be changed when the engine starts smokin'?) cover on the left side off; Nuthin"! no creamy whitish crap there either. I can't remember adding any coolant to it, it's been just a smidge under the joint of the overflow tank since i got it. Now the Chrysler needs coolant once a month but it has a leak but it's so small that the $700.00 the man wants to fix it is too much to pay. You can buy a lot of coolant for $700.00
  9. No pictures today, the Chrysler's alternator gave up the ghost today, it started Sunday but I wanted to be sure and I became so, stopped at the Auto Zone to get the part and the car would not start for the testing! I got home and (as you prolly know) the dang drive belt is the worse thing about the whole job! It's a Sebring with a 3.5 V-6 in it. VERY crowded!
  10. Thank you very much! very informative! So Is Castec some over seas cheapie MFR or what? Crap castings and they are not liable? I was hoping to see a sealing procedure like JB Weld or something Bellzona maybe; but you'd never get the oil out of the casting at home.
  11. Thanks for your response! NOTE my bad; I replaced the 2 ROCKERS, NOT the lifters. Had I gone in to replace the lifers I would have replaced all of them and the cam and bearings. That's some thing I have never done. I had the engine running while the valve cover was off; I'm thinking if a roller on the bottom of a lifter were "chunked up" as you say the rocker action would have appeared uneven I didn't notice anything like that, all seemed to be operating in a smooth, rhythmic manner. So what is the fix for a head that leaks coolant? Is it a gasket issue or getting the head welded or is it replaced? I can see the needle bearings inside the removed rocker, tomorrow I will post pictures of them. The thing about a high volume oil pump that bugs me is that the oil is STILL going through the same passages (their size didn't change so how can they carry more oil at the same pressure?) I get it if the oil doesn't FILL the galleys with the standard volume pump, then the High Vol. pump would make sense to me. I know high volume oil pumps have been used for ages... I will check the coolant issue out tomorrow after work. If I can avoid tearing into the engine that would be great! I'll sell the parts on C/List or on line, store them till I really do need them so I'm going to revisit the rockers and be double sure they are correct, check the head bolts under the cover, look for that number you mentioned, look for goo under the oil cap, and check the spark plugs. I appreciate your input, keep it coming!
  12. After doing the BG (Bearing and Gear) engine flush I still had the ticking, so I did the transmission fluid in the vacuum hose that connects the valve cover (PVC) still ticks; I did the trans fluid in the motor oil thing too, still ticks. I replaced the valve cover on the left side of the engine due to the PVC issue and while in there I located (I thought) the rocker(s) that was ticking, blew a hot spray cleaner through the push rod, installed a Melling rocker arm on both valves (#1 cylinder) and now the ticking is worse. The ticking was intermittent (meaning it ticked when warmed up and didn't tick when warmed up) but always after the engine warmed up (of course, the oil is thinner because it's hot so I put 10W 40 in it and it still ticks) also, I read about guys finding needle bearings when draining the oil, they had to come from the rocker arms! I figured the needle bearings would roll around inside the race and when the part that was missing the needles was at the top/ bottom of the lifter that was when the ticking was heard. You can hear it at idle or on the freeway. I did a compression test, all over 200 PSI; not too bad for a motor with 170K miles on it. I figure the O ring on the pick up tube is leaking making the oil pump cavitate and not getting enough oil to the lifters. This O ring is a known weakness. So I figured to replace the O ring, oil pick up tube, timing chain set and cover, put a Melling high volume oil pump in there too. Also I'm told to replace the heater hoses while the radiator is removed. I am going to revisit the rocker issue and double check that they are properly installed before I go any further. Right now I have it on stands and the right tire is removed. Coolant is fine, no white spark plugs, no brown mush in the oil filler tube cap. Oil pressure is 40 when cold over 30 hot. Ticks only when warm. It's more like a CLACK than a TICK.
  13. I'm a New Guy, I have a 06 Avalanche 4X4 with the 5.3 flex engine. I got lifter noise, did all the cleaning tricks got no joy. Now I'm ready to replace the pick up tube O ring and while there the oil pump and timing chain and sprockets. Does anyone here have any experience with this? I have a Haynes book; I got it up on stands and I removed the L/H tire today. Tomorrow it's the stone shield under the oil pan, brake caliper, rotor, and hub I hope. I have to pull the inner axle and axle tube, some miscellaneous stuff under the engine, the radiator, water pump. I have the parts, new timing gear cover, oil pick up tube w/new o rings, timing chain set, will get a new water pump too. If any want to help you need to live in the South Puget Sound area in S. Kitsap County! I'm Disabled Vet getting older and it's hard for me to do this work anymore. I used to be a Vehicle Maintenance mechanic in the USAF so I know what I'm doing, but things ain't what they used to be.
  14. Too bad the MFR. doesn't have an application or catalog. I can't tell if they make ANYTHING that FITS anything at all; I mean not without giving them all my on line info; and that just opens me up to all kinds of unwanted emails from sites I never heard of. Oh well, I'll just keep what I have then.
  15. Then I would get that fluid changed as soon as possible because it's tired. My parents had a transmission they ignored (I was a boy) and they let the fluid get "tired"; i was told the fluid turned into "shellac" and we all know shellac has no qualities that would qualify it for use in machinery. Now. I don't know if the guy was just saying the fluid lost all it's qualities and saying that it turned into shellac was just his was of explaining things or not...I don't know if tranny fluid CAN turn into shellac, I'm just relating the story. I'm sure that without this background story somebody would critique what I'm saying to the point that the post would loose it's integrity and be useless. Before you follow the advice in the attached MAKE SURE it's still applicable by calling a local GM dealer and asking if Dextron VI is still the ONLY transmission fluid GM recommends in all car and light duty trucks prior to 2007 (see attach for paragraphs marked "MODELS and "ATTENTION") and again as always it is your responsibility to check with a GM dealer for the latest information. This is dated April 2007. More ammunition: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEXRON#DEXRON-VI The fluid specification for Dexron-VI was introduced in 2005, and was first used as the GM factory-fill automatic transmission fluid for model year 2006. All Dexron-III licenses expired permanently at the end of 2006, and GM now supports only Dexron-VI fluids for use in their automatic transmissions,[3] although fluids asserted by their manufacturers to meet Dexron-III standards continue to be sold under names such as Dex/Merc. These fluids are not regulated or endorsed by GM.[4] Dexron VI—the newest GM ATF, it was developed specifically for the new six-speed automatic and is a synthetic blend (meaning it has some conventional base stocks). That transmission has tighter internal tolerances and required a fluid that had higher shear strength that Dexron III. https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/autotransfluid It was introduced with the 2006 models. GM considers Dexron VI to be "backward compatible," meaning GM recommends it for use in any vehicle that originally used any earlier version of Dexron and that it can be mixed with them. However, GM specifically recommends against using Dexron VI in non-GM made vehicles that used Dexron III as original equipment. It is also the specified ATF in certain non-GM models that use GM transmissions, such as BMW. It is not, however, specified for GM brand vehicles that have non-GM transmissions, as mentioned above, or are imported to the United States. NOTE: Dexron VI is not recommended for: Pontiac Vibe and Wave, Chevy Aveo, Epica, and Equinox, Saturn ION with CVT or AF23 transmission, Saturn Vue with CVT, AF33 or 5AT transmissions, or 1991–2002 Saturn S. These are vehicles with transmissions that were not manufactured by General Motors. Must use dextron 6.pdf
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