For $500.00 I will get a drill and a head light buffing kit and buff the plastic lenses and use that $500.00 for beer. I have heard of people removing light scratches from watch crystals with a rag, tooth paste, and a finger. If tooth paste doesn't remove the enamel from teeth I'm pretty sure it'll be ok on head light lenses. It'll take some elbow grease fersure.
The physics say you can't get more flow than the smallest opening the gases flow through. If you got a 3" Y pipe that's the max you're going to get, even if you put a 6" pipe on it from the 3" point it's flow no better than the 3" allows. That's the physics. Just like water, you can't get 4" flow from a 2" source pipe by connecting the 4" to the 2". Stay with the same size as the smallest opening your system has. The cat will flow X, you can't get better than that in a CAT back system. Maybe if you ran headers you could increase the flow, but it would still be no better than the smallest hole the exhaust passes through. You'd need a cat that has that same size diameter inlet and outlet as your upstream pipes
There are political forces in play that will tax gas burning vehicles past the point of affordability for most of us. there is a $150.00 and a $75.00 tax for owning a hybid or electrical vehicle in my State; 2 taxes. They (the party that raise taxes) are going to do the same thing with real property if we the people don't start voting responsible representative into office. Private ownership of real property will be taxed to the point few can afford to pay the taxes on it. We'll all be living like the Jetsons (they lived in huge disk thick with many levels in the sky. You never saw the earth in Jetson cartoons just sky, space and the surface of other bodies in space. I think there will be electrification/hybrid kits for some trucks so people that don't have/won't pay over $100.000 for a vehicle that's depreciated to worthlessness before it's paid for; I know I won't; I'll walk, ride a motorcycle. Or maybe stay at home and order the stuff I need over the internet. That's another practical side to this dicussion.
Who has poor door performance on their truck? Does the door not stay open? Do the detentes (the places the door "offers" to stay open) not exist? How did you fix it or do you just live with it?
Well Cam, that would explain why he can't find it......
I don't know for sure but Chevy has a long history of common bell housing to engine pattern, Power Glides, T-350, and T-400 fit big blocks, small, blocks and in-line 6 would all hook up to the popular engines back in the day, but the rub is we're not back in the day... Chevy doesn't usually change bell house casting equipment unless there is a significant difference.
I read/was told to be very careful when doing any kind of electric welding on Computer controlled vehicles (OBD 1 & 2) because the weld current can go places that's bad for the vehicle. So if this is true (I have no doubt it is) how do you set up a (2004) OBD2 GM vehicle to safely weld without blowing a computer or air bag?
dna9656 replied to Spiney Norman's topic in 1982-2005 Chevrolet S-10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma/JimmyI'm old enough to barely remember straight weight oil. I remember Popular Science ran an article about "Non Newtonian" oils and how through the use of polymers chemists could make oil behave (flow) like a heavy oil when hot and a thinner oil when it was cold Most of you folks prolly know the "W" in "10W 30) means winter. So this particular oil acts like a 10 weight oil (gets thinner,. flows easier) in the cold (when most all fluids get thicker and harder to pump) and a 30 weight oil in the summer (gets thicker, so it's not too thin to do it's job) when most all fluids get thinner.
The link is no good.
"she’s a little squirrelly from 50-75 in the front so I have to figure out why" could it be the tires are too big/heavy? Tires are selected for middle of the road (no pun intended) performance, trucks are engineered for X unsprung weight (the weight of the tire) and centripetal forces even with a larger strut it might be you have too much tire there.
I would check to see if GM offered your truck with those wheels. I remember the S 10s, they came with cheapie 15" steel wheels and those 5 spoke (the spokes were really wide) cast aluminum wheels, the aluminum wheel option got you a different ball joint than the steel wheel equipped trucks. I donno but there could be an issue like this for your truck.
Richard is prolly on the real source, he's pretty sharp! I think you might consider why that fuel pump has a high electrical draw.... could the internal fuel filter be partially plugged, thus causing the pump to blow your fuse? I wish GM had an external filter on the trucks like they used to, this wouldn't help an internal filter issue, I do not believe they had a fine filter in the older external filter trucks and maybe this caused the internal fuel pumps to go hence the internal fuel filter...I donno. I would also check for any (on line or at a dealer) TSBs (technical Service Bulletins) I would trust my own on line search than that of a busy service writer who can't be aware of EVERY TSB out there.
I have to wonder what person designed the tail gate cables for the S10 tail gate. the cable attachment point on the tailgate don't thread through the latch bracket, they just wobble in an oversized hole! They are loose in the bracket, THEN they used "C" clips to keep the cable end on the anchor point, "C" clips that aren't much larger than the hole they cover! A washer is needed behind the :c: clip just to keep it in place. The anchor needs to thread into the latch bracket so it will stay square with the latch. THEN the latches and cables will work properly and stay put where they belong.
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