BlancoSilverado

Why would you come to a GM site and ask this question? Don't buy a 5.7L tundra, i believe the 4.8L tundra is more reliable.

You might not have the newest fluid in the transmission, if it happens regularly take it to the dealer to have them do a flush.

Very interesting. would like to know how this turns out.

Yes with that many miles, they are probably out.

That's for an IOS upgrade and not an IOR upgrade.

Looks like an electrical channel (anti-chafe). Did you pull on it? Might be an accidental drop when manufacturing.

This is what i did and didn't work. Dealer said there is no way to do it with a factory controller/setup. I would need multiple modules and then software from a similar trimmed truck and they wouldn't do that. @Doolin-Dalton, That plug exact grey plug is for the aux switch kit. (RPO 9L7). I installed them and that is how i know. There is another plug that is to the left and closer to the fire wall that an after market brake controller would click into using the supplied connector that comes/should of came with the truck.

i have the original "black" shocks on the front and upgraded the rear to 5100. Made a huge difference with the rear. i will only switch out the front to 5100 but money is a little tight. probably at 90kmiles i will swap both.

A little bit of noise on initial start up on a motor that has been sitting for awhile is fine. if that noise continues for more than a few(7ish) seconds, check the oil level. The oil has drained back and needs to fill all the galleys back up before the bearings/rockers receive oil. That is the noise, usually there is a film that will protect the bearings until the oil arrives.

Want to know also. I didn't know there was a difference on the rails.

I do want to asked which switches are 20 and 30 amp? Also which wire colors go to with switch?

Lol, that's funny. FYI for someone that doesn't actually know, not this much. If i remember correctly, someone needed a heater core replaced.

I did the switches roughly a month ago. Not to hard to do but took a few hours to install. you have to remove a decent amount of the dash to install properly. There is another topic on the forum that list all the part number i will edit with the URL. This is a really good spot on how to install them. @ Transient said this on page 7 "Looks like it's 11589015. That was the only thing my dealer had in stock. They said it was a common part that is used on all of GM's vehicles in various locations. They are the same as the screws holding your knee bolster to the dash, etc. You could really do the project without them. Just take screws from another place, such as the bottom of the knee bolster so you can mount the fuse box. When the new fasteners come in just install them where you took the other 2 fasteners from. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk"

Ya, It does NOT have a drain plug and it also does NOT have a reusable gasket. You will need to replace the gasket while you are in there. There are 2 electrical connector/wires hooked on to the cover itself( tree grommet ). Disconnect these first before removing the cover. FYI i have the SU4 front diff (non-GM diff).

Not to be rude, If your asking questions about how to take off 3 nuts off the shock tower, I do not believe you should be wrenching on your truck. I do wish you the best of luck. 1) Personally i would make sure the suspension is at full drupe and then just go in there with a ratchet wrench for the top three nuts. 2) You can skip this step if you are doing both sides at once. 3) Once i compress my springs i use multiple zip-ties to told the tool to the spring. 6) I would get one, you changed the height in some way (up or down).