PBNB

The upfitter kit is quite a kit! However, GM doesn't want to install it so they give you the parts and show you the door. You get 5 buttons and a separate fuse block as well as some large fuses that got in the battery covers. There were already installed on mine truck but nothing behind them (see the picture). I think the button install would be fun cutting into the plastic but overall, I really like the kit. These are great and can be set to on all the time or switched by the key. On the fuse block you get fuses and relays which makes it easy to connect lights or other high draw devices or gauges. What gauges are you getting? If Banks, they have an OBD connector which makes connecting them easy, speaking from experience. Some other gauge pods will do the same. So far I have Diode Dynamics fog lights and my dash cam connected. Working on more items to connect.

Yes they are a good addition to make the truck more visible. I have the OE ones in the lower front corners. I added some amber fogs to the bumper from Diode Dynamics SS6 model and wired them to my upfitter switches.

Did you do this after the warranty expired? Or still under warranty? I am guessing the warranty would be void. I am trying to find a happy middle ground on this by perhaps keeping the cat but removing everything else.

Thanks for the responses. Having an issue and not getting support is a real thing and can take the shine of any good product. I had an issue with my iDash recently and Banks went above and beyond to fix it and that makes me want to deal with them on some other future upgrades so it does benefit any company to support the crap out of their products. I do like the looks or the VSE parts but can be hesitant if there is a weak back end to support it. I have their CCV and catch can sitting in the cart but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Just want to get feedback and this helps. @AbzDad have you noticed any change in the amount of build up on the manifold sensors with the reroute?

I have been looking at ways to reduce the crud in the intake manifold and one way seems to be preventing the oil from entering the intake and mixing with the soot from the EGR. VSE seems to have a CCV kit that looks like it takes care of that. Add to that a FASS EGR Filter kit and the intake should be pretty clean. Any thoughts on either of these add ons?

Has anyone noticed how much heat is coming out the tailpipe and melting the front of the trailer! I was hooking up yesterday to leave the campsite and noticed a ton of heat coming out the tailpipe. What have you done to lessen the heat? I noticed Banks has a tailpipe that directs the heat out the right hand side but not too sure if that is just snake oil or something worth considering.

I have the 18" black mutilspoke wheels that came with my truck. I like them as they are very subdued and look good with the 295/70's I am sure that the next set of wheels I get will be some after market all black wheels. Or maybe some AT4X wheels.

One of the things I like about the L5P is how clean it runs with no exhaust smell. My hope would be to run the reduced setup but still have the cat to help clean the exhaust. Getting rid of the DEF DPF and EGR would be good for engine longevity and reliability. How stinky are those deletes? I am not looking at rolling coal these days, had that with my TDI and those days are behind me now!

This clamp style works the best. The wrap around design would be tough the use! https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/2011-super-t-maxx-torsion-bar-unloading-installation-tool/ I rented a similar one from the local parts location (Canadian Tire) and in the end it doesn't cost anything because you return it and get a full refund, sort of like a tool exchange program. The tires are Falken AT4W's I got the dealer to put them on the truck when we bought it. The truck had ~25k miles on it and the Michelins were worn and looked tiny on the truck. Here is a pic of it at the dealership just before we bought it.

Yes, in January no less! I did the Cognito 1" rear blocks and replaced the Ranchos with Kings first, then the front. I replaced the upper control arms with the Cognito boxed version. Cognito instructions want to trim the droop stops a bit. The Kings provide the droop stop now. I replaced the Ranchos with Kings. I got the kit from SuspensionMaxx, but didn't use the little shock extensions, I set the keys at 1.75" (you will need a torsion key tool to do this as the adjuster bolt is pretty tight under load). I installed the diff drop spacers and skid plate spacers the came with that kit. Then took the truck for an alignment. The diff drop spacers were fun as you need to be a contortionist to get some of these parts installed. The shocks have adjustable settings and I am running them on the lighter side which makes the ride much nicer. The Ranchos were so stiff and dead feeling. I did get a lot of guidance from Filthy Motorsports, who dialled the shocks in, before shipping them to me. If you are looking for some guidance, I would suggest a call to Ben over there.

Have a look at the Diode Dynamic C1R light. It installs in minutes with their wiring harness and is super bright when backing up. I leave mine in all the time for an extra brake light and pop it out when towing as it sits in my hitch receiver. https://www.diodedynamics.com/hitchmount-led-pod-reverse-kit.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqycZjgNgKE-vDJIzGAP-DXvFCp8LygfNFp0m6YVgkxeIkJt1jC

I went with the Falken AT4W when we got the truck, they were quiet and smooth for about a year then we got the howling from the front. I just rotated them so hopefully that will wear the them a bit more evenly. For balancing, check out Centramatics balancers in addition to getting the wheels balanced. I find the Falkens to be heavy even compared to the Toyo AT3's I had on the Tundra. For more road use, I would consider something with a bit less lug.

Like @asilverblazer says, there are lots of things to consider. Cranking up the torsion keys is easy but you will be running out of movement in the stock setup. I did the SuspensionMaxx torsion keys and took them up 1.75". I did some other things to open up the range of travel and changed the upper control arms too. If you want range, range be prepared to remove the droop stops but that comes with other risks like snapping ball joints, etc... It may be that if you are looking to level the truck, you might want to look at doing more than just keys for the long term usability of your truck. You can also look at getting some AT4X front end components to do a nice level on your truck. I did a level on mine and one of the side affects is the ride is much better than with the Z71 package (so called off road kit). I am running King shocks and a bunch of other things. Running 295/70R18 tires in this picture and about 800 lbs on the rear (including the barrels and the rack/tent

An update to this problem. It turned out that my front door Bose speakers were blown. Today I popped off the door panel and pressed in the speaker cone and it was crunchy. It seems that if I push in one side it is crunchy and on the other side it is smooth. Just a poorly made speaker I guess but with the Bose name on it??? Put some JL Audio 6x9’s in place of these Bose crappers and the sound is clean now. Sort of weird that the problem would go away and come back mainly on longer trips which sucked. So one more thing cleaned up on this truck. Eventually, I will change out the rest of the speakers.

You should be able to connect to the leads coming off the fuse panel that came with the kit. You can see that each AUX button has a fuse and relay already. SW 1, 4 and 5 have 25 amp fuses. SW 5 has the wire going to the 3rd brake light area but you can always intercept the wire at the fuse panel if you don't want to use the pre-wire at the back.