PBNB

One of the things I like about the L5P is how clean it runs with no exhaust smell. My hope would be to run the reduced setup but still have the cat to help clean the exhaust. Getting rid of the DEF DPF and EGR would be good for engine longevity and reliability. How stinky are those deletes? I am not looking at rolling coal these days, had that with my TDI and those days are behind me now!

This clamp style works the best. The wrap around design would be tough the use! https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/2011-super-t-maxx-torsion-bar-unloading-installation-tool/ I rented a similar one from the local parts location (Canadian Tire) and in the end it doesn't cost anything because you return it and get a full refund, sort of like a tool exchange program. The tires are Falken AT4W's I got the dealer to put them on the truck when we bought it. The truck had ~25k miles on it and the Michelins were worn and looked tiny on the truck. Here is a pic of it at the dealership just before we bought it.

Yes, in January no less! I did the Cognito 1" rear blocks and replaced the Ranchos with Kings first, then the front. I replaced the upper control arms with the Cognito boxed version. Cognito instructions want to trim the droop stops a bit. The Kings provide the droop stop now. I replaced the Ranchos with Kings. I got the kit from SuspensionMaxx, but didn't use the little shock extensions, I set the keys at 1.75" (you will need a torsion key tool to do this as the adjuster bolt is pretty tight under load). I installed the diff drop spacers and skid plate spacers the came with that kit. Then took the truck for an alignment. The diff drop spacers were fun as you need to be a contortionist to get some of these parts installed. The shocks have adjustable settings and I am running them on the lighter side which makes the ride much nicer. The Ranchos were so stiff and dead feeling. I did get a lot of guidance from Filthy Motorsports, who dialled the shocks in, before shipping them to me. If you are looking for some guidance, I would suggest a call to Ben over there.

Have a look at the Diode Dynamic C1R light. It installs in minutes with their wiring harness and is super bright when backing up. I leave mine in all the time for an extra brake light and pop it out when towing as it sits in my hitch receiver. https://www.diodedynamics.com/hitchmount-led-pod-reverse-kit.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqycZjgNgKE-vDJIzGAP-DXvFCp8LygfNFp0m6YVgkxeIkJt1jC

I went with the Falken AT4W when we got the truck, they were quiet and smooth for about a year then we got the howling from the front. I just rotated them so hopefully that will wear the them a bit more evenly. For balancing, check out Centramatics balancers in addition to getting the wheels balanced. I find the Falkens to be heavy even compared to the Toyo AT3's I had on the Tundra. For more road use, I would consider something with a bit less lug.

Like @asilverblazer says, there are lots of things to consider. Cranking up the torsion keys is easy but you will be running out of movement in the stock setup. I did the SuspensionMaxx torsion keys and took them up 1.75". I did some other things to open up the range of travel and changed the upper control arms too. If you want range, range be prepared to remove the droop stops but that comes with other risks like snapping ball joints, etc... It may be that if you are looking to level the truck, you might want to look at doing more than just keys for the long term usability of your truck. You can also look at getting some AT4X front end components to do a nice level on your truck. I did a level on mine and one of the side affects is the ride is much better than with the Z71 package (so called off road kit). I am running King shocks and a bunch of other things. Running 295/70R18 tires in this picture and about 800 lbs on the rear (including the barrels and the rack/tent

An update to this problem. It turned out that my front door Bose speakers were blown. Today I popped off the door panel and pressed in the speaker cone and it was crunchy. It seems that if I push in one side it is crunchy and on the other side it is smooth. Just a poorly made speaker I guess but with the Bose name on it??? Put some JL Audio 6x9’s in place of these Bose crappers and the sound is clean now. Sort of weird that the problem would go away and come back mainly on longer trips which sucked. So one more thing cleaned up on this truck. Eventually, I will change out the rest of the speakers.

You should be able to connect to the leads coming off the fuse panel that came with the kit. You can see that each AUX button has a fuse and relay already. SW 1, 4 and 5 have 25 amp fuses. SW 5 has the wire going to the 3rd brake light area but you can always intercept the wire at the fuse panel if you don't want to use the pre-wire at the back.

The power comes from the right side battery and feeds the little fuse panel that the buttons plug into. Did you get all the parts for the kit? Once it is all connected all 5 buttons will be able to power most accessories. I have my extra fog lights and my dash cam connected so far. If you are planning a snow plow or something that needs a lot of power, there is another power feed on the right side battery for things like that (I think it is a 200 amp connection).

One thought would be to try Centramatic Balancers. I have them behind my heavy (69 lbs) Falken AT4W tires and so far so good,

I cleaned both of my sensors and installed the banks sensor relocation kit: The kit takes the sensors out of the soot stream.

Mine is like that too. I think the movement is from the rubber connectors. If the tube was loose, it would most likely blow right off during boosting.

Removal of the C1R takes about 1 minute. It just unplugs and there is a cap that goes over the connector to keep the dirt out. The main wiring loom that comes with the unit stays put. I have my pin lock holding the unit in-place and so no one can steal it. I just unlock the pin, and slide the C1R out and unplug it. Then I slide my hitch into the receiver and pin it. It couldn't get easier and the light is super bright as aa back up light and brake light. The same thing could be done with those tailgate strip lights and I think the truck would see them as a trailer as well. Any light that sits on the 7 pin connector should trigger the truck to think a trailer is connected. Sort of like this link: https://www.actiontrucks.com/product-detail/RCS78849/multi-function-led?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22638002763&gbraid=0AAAAADnotY3_v0jtgfK-hp22MFl7amrLK Another side affect is that the rear cross traffic alert gets turned off as well. So the truck doesn't slam on the brakes when backing up and it sees something.

I got my cameras to come on all the time... with turn signals. Sort of a result of the Diode Dynamics C1R that I am running in the hitch. It is plugged into the 7 pin system. The truck thinks I have a trailer connected. I am using this C1R since I am blocking my 3rd brake light with my rooftop tent. Here is a link: https://www.diodedynamics.com/hitchmount-led-pod-reverse-kit.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqOqHooGdMTtAsBhB2fa6UxZovj80P1trAmT1Ph9d4AwNLdR6hv

Looks great! I have some questions if you don't mind: Any issues aligning the front wheels with the extra lift? How do you like the tires, any issues with rubbing? Assuming you have the Bose audio. Did you disable the Bose sub to put the Kicker sub in? Thanks