Core-Lokt

Hello @jaszr2 Do you have a link for the item? I put a replacement bumper on my truck and consequently had to relocate the shutters. I studied on them a while, and figured if you left a couple key blades, you could get most of the airflow with probably no throwing codes.

In the 6.6 gas thread, I added information in my fluid change thread about these gauges and temperatures. With very limited data, it so far looks like ~30 degrees difference between front and rear.

I know; crap pictures. Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit. I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away. In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations.

If you’re interested in any cowl pod lights, I can recommend the Parkwood Welding mounts. Offhand, I only recall one other option from a place in Arizona that was waaayyy more expensive. I have a pic of my truck with the lights in a post, here.

Yes; I have a Banks rear cover, and a PPE front with sensors. This weekend I hope to get them heated-up. I’m not planning any towing in the near future, but when I do (and anything notable is observed), I’ll make mention of it.

I know the upfitter switch deal well; my truck didn't have it, so in one day I retrofitted/wired the kit, and since I knew I'd have several panels off, I did the same day a High Country cluster, and console charging/cooling. That charger cooling tube was the worst part of the deal. The gauges are MaxTow. I don't need an iDash, as the HC cluster has all that information, and I'm using the OBD for a pass-through for the Intellihaul cameras? or the GM dash camera?, anyway. I'm ending up going under the hood to the fuse box. I identified constant hot/switched hot/illumination and have some piggyback taps in. Just waiting for an 4-wire 18-gauge cable to come in the 29th to finish. I already ran the sensors, and have the gauges/pod mounted. If I could've found what I needed on the fuse panel by the light switch, they'd be up and going.

Thanks; I looked there a few minutes, and I think I can find something. I really never looked there, as I thought it was stuff like PTO/aftermarket bodies/accessories like snow plows.

I'm putting in an A-pillar pod/gauges, and I'm asking if anybody can identify a (preferably) fuse for a switched power and illumination circuit on the driver's side interior fuse panel. Offhand, everything I checked with a test light was constant-hot, and I'd much rather uses a piggyback fuse. I can certainly find a wire, but I'd rather not half-tap. Thanks in advance for any help.

I bought the truck new in December 2022, and it's got 60,000 miles. The front cover magnet had slightly more glitter, but overall very clean, no off odor, and good-colored; really nothing to report. My truck has Hi-Lo transfer case, and the fluid looked great, as well. I have towed..maybe 1,000 miles. Yes, this was the first change for all three driveline items. I'll probably do the transmission at next oil change.

I got the time to change the fluids in the transfer case and front differential, and I intended to replace the front cover. This is a PML cover, and the noteworthy things about it are all hardware is there, the fill plug level is the same height (but on the side), and it holds a pint more per the instructions. There's no good place to take a pic, so that's the best I could do.

Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.

Thinking on things over the week, I decided to use the remaining oil in the pouch. Basically, there's a gallon in the differential, minus a tiny bit of spillage and whatever remained in the bags. I think Banks designed this cover biased towards the standard Ram fill (some of those applications are greater than others, but by Amsoil's website, capacity is minimum about a pint greater than GM applications. In the picture, the differential appears fairly tilted, but it is really slightly tilted; the camera angle is skewed. With ~8 pints, the level is midway on the sight glass; you can see the center hole of the baffle to more closely judge the level. Regardless the 6.3 pint fill spec, I'm going to leave it as-is. I don't blame Banks for erring on the conservative side, and I don't know why there's such a difference in specs between GM and Ram. And I'd also speculate the cover volume is pretty much the same as the stamped steel, as @Chuck FB noted relative volume with his recollection of another member's fill experience.

Good find and points, sir.

I agree it's ambiguous, and somewhat complicated with a shared application. For S&Gs, I just looked on Amsoil's website for a 2023 Ram 2500 with 6.4 gas. https://www.amsoil.com/lookup/auto-and-light-truck/2023/ram/2500-pickup/6-4l-8-cyl-engine-code-j-esb-j/ There's a lot of listings for Ram rear differentials, and too early in the morning to dig into the variants. But there's a big difference in fluid volume called for between them and GM applications, assuming it's the same axle assembly. So, if GM differentials tend to be underfilled, what does everyone think about a 7 pint fill, as opposed to the 6.3 pints listed on Amsoil's website? It would somewhat conservatively split the difference between Ram and GM specs.

I’m going off the instructions.