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About Shall36

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  1. At 41’, I think you’ll be heavier than 13.5K. I would go by the GVWR on the trailer. If they let you test tow before buying, do it. You will be close on payload. The truck will pull it but it won’t be a lot of fun. At 11k in Florida on a hot day, there’s a lot of downshifting and revving and such. if the Reese gooseneck pin box will bolt up, give that serious consideration. At about $1,200, not too much more than the Andersen and cheaper than an Andersen plus cushioned pinbox combo. the Curt double lock is a great value. If you go Anderson or any hitch that adapts to a ball, you cannot use a functional pivoting pin box; you have to lock the turret in place. That’s only an issue if you have cap to window clearance problems. I had to flip my Andersen ball receiver around to clear the pin box to tailgate but still get a tight turn. Not 90* but plenty. You can see the axles on my trailer shift out of line with each other once you hit about 60*...doing a full jackknife might rip them off.
  2. I have the Curt double lock gooseneck and the Andersen Ultimate. Install of the Curt was a bit of a PITA but doable on your back in the driveway and basic tools, though you will need a cutoff wheel to trim the muffler shield. Also, buy a good holes saw. Every setup is different. Originally, I had a Reese Revolution and the setup was perfect. I put in a morryde orbital, which is taller, and now it’s a bit nose high. My camper does not accommodate a standard bolt pattern pin box so my options are very limited. If I had a camper with a standard set of pin box wings I would be using a Reese Gooseneck pin box. Is that 12k weight dry or GVWR? If it’s 41’, there’s no way it’s 12k ready to camp. My 29’ HT trailer I scaled at just under 11k this weekend with about 2,200 on the pin. My truck GVWR was just under 9,500. There’s no way I would do a 14k trailer with the 6.0 if I plan to camp on a regular basis and I’m in flat Florida.
  3. No gasser will pull the same as a diesel. A 6.0 will pull your weight but it will definitely work. I pull about 10,500 with my gasser and it does ok. No grades here in Florida.
  4. I know that some vehicles will mark the odometer if this or similar is done. This mark signifies that the odometer has been tampered with. I do not know what will happen with this truck, but it’s worth researching.
  5. There are a couple threads on this. There’s a module at the rear of the truck that can have intermittent connectivity.
  6. Can’t speak to the noise, but my long term mpg is 10. A large portion of my miles are towing and the rest are in town. 14 - 17 on the highway unloaded is normal
  7. It’s an easy job but can be messy. Just drop the pan, swap filters, and fill it back up. If you’ve never done one before and aren’t set up with a big drain pan and stuff, maybe just pay someone to do it for you. It’s about a 45 min job for me if I take my time and don’t make a mess. Make sure you seat the filter completely or you will burn up the trans.
  8. A standard drain and fill with filter change is more than adequate. I changed mine at 40k and I tow a fifth wheel a lot. That fluid was very clean and very red. Unless you’re over 100k or have really heated that unit up on many occasions, I think it’s overkill. I cant recall how many quarts, but I’m thinking it was six.
  9. Ford has an all new 7.3 gas motor for the 250 to 650 trucks. They are being tight lipped on figures but say it will split the difference between the 6.2 and 6.7. Its design for constant heavy loads in their medium duty trucks. Fleet buyers should be happy given simple design. I imagine they will discontinue the V10 but I don’t know that for certain. It’s a more compact package than the 6.2 as its cam in block.
  10. My concerns with direct injection are carbon on the intake valves and the added complexity and expense of direct injection versus port injection. I’m not sure if the extra complexity is worth it. Of course, it’s all good until it breaks. Even with improved oil control, the DI motors are prone to carbon buildup. There’s just no way around it. The turbo motors and the European small displacement motors are the worst, but without fuel going over the valves, there’s no way to keep deposits off. I’m interested to see how Ford’s new 7.3 does in the real world. It will be interesting to see how the unloaded fuel economy comes out. That motor with the ten speed trans will be a beast. Simple design and port injection. I am am interested in the 6.6 but just can’t get over the terrible styling updates. Someone stayed up many nights to think up something that ugly.
  11. Anyone else not thrilled about the direct injection part?
  12. I was shopping hard about two months ago for either a new 2018 or a barely used 2018 diesel. I didn’t run across many gas units. They didn’t want to deal much on the new trucks or on the used trucks. What’s funny is that a lot of those used trucks are still on the lot. I think this is one more sign of car sales slowing down as the economy starts to slow down. It’s really a stretch to spend well over 50 K on a new pick up truck and I have a feeling sales of these really expensive trucks are going to tank as the economy slows down. Super expensive luxury type stuff is the first to be hit and while these trucks may not be super expensive like yachts or planes, a $60k diesel truck is definitely a “want” and not a “need” for 95% of the people who own them.
  13. Hi all, thought I would post this in the event someone else has a similar problem. 2015 Sierra 6.0. 40k miles. Truck would not crank when the key was turned. Screens would go blank and nothing. If I tried enough times, I could get it to start. Took it to the dealer, was able to replicate the issue, and dealer diagnosed the truck with a bad ECM. Tech said normally, it’s the junction block on the battery or even a bad starter. ECM replaced and all is good. Covered under warranty.
  14. Big shoutout to Cliff for all his posts on the lowering shackles and the Sumosprings. I have a 1” drop and my fifth wheel was chucking. I put Sumosprings on and it really smoothed things out. I think I was hitting the bump stops before.
  15. You will be way over on GVWR and on payload. Payload, which is listed on the yellow sticker on the door jamb, will be around 2,000 pounds for that combination and it includes pin weight plus occupants plus whatever is in/on the truck. You will be way over. That said, the GVWR is more about registration and taxes than anything and the GVWR is what’s limiting payload. Look up the specs for the axle and tires. With suspension mods, in theory, you should be good up to the ratings for a SRW 3500. I have a gasser 2500HD with 3,000# payload and a camper at about 11k with about 2,200 on the pin. I’m well within limits. A 13,5000 FW should do fine but you will be over your GVWR. I wouldn’t hesitate to tow that trailer with a diesel but depending on where you live, you may need to pay for a higher GVWR when registering the truck.
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