It’s an easy job but can be messy. Just drop the pan, swap filters, and fill it back up. If you’ve never done one before and aren’t set up with a big drain pan and stuff, maybe just pay someone to do it for you. It’s about a 45 min job for me if I take my time and don’t make a mess. Make sure you seat the filter completely or you will burn up the trans.
A standard drain and fill with filter change is more than adequate. I changed mine at 40k and I tow a fifth wheel a lot. That fluid was very clean and very red. Unless you’re over 100k or have really heated that unit up on many occasions, I think it’s overkill. I cant recall how many quarts, but I’m thinking it was six.
Ford has an all new 7.3 gas motor for the 250 to 650 trucks. They are being tight lipped on figures but say it will split the difference between the 6.2 and 6.7. Its design for constant heavy loads in their medium duty trucks. Fleet buyers should be happy given simple design. I imagine they will discontinue the V10 but I don’t know that for certain. It’s a more compact package than the 6.2 as its cam in block.
My concerns with direct injection are carbon on the intake valves and the added complexity and expense of direct injection versus port injection. I’m not sure if the extra complexity is worth it. Of course, it’s all good until it breaks. Even with improved oil control, the DI motors are prone to carbon buildup. There’s just no way around it. The turbo motors and the European small displacement motors are the worst, but without fuel going over the valves, there’s no way to keep deposits off. I’m interested to see how Ford’s new 7.3 does in the real world. It will be interesting to see how the unloaded fuel economy comes out. That motor with the ten speed trans will be a beast. Simple design and port injection. I am am interested in the 6.6 but just can’t get over the terrible styling updates. Someone stayed up many nights to think up something that ugly.
I was shopping hard about two months ago for either a new 2018 or a barely used 2018 diesel. I didn’t run across many gas units. They didn’t want to deal much on the new trucks or on the used trucks. What’s funny is that a lot of those used trucks are still on the lot. I think this is one more sign of car sales slowing down as the economy starts to slow down. It’s really a stretch to spend well over 50 K on a new pick up truck and I have a feeling sales of these really expensive trucks are going to tank as the economy slows down. Super expensive luxury type stuff is the first to be hit and while these trucks may not be super expensive like yachts or planes, a $60k diesel truck is definitely a “want” and not a “need” for 95% of the people who own them.
Hi all, thought I would post this in the event someone else has a similar problem. 2015 Sierra 6.0. 40k miles. Truck would not crank when the key was turned. Screens would go blank and nothing. If I tried enough times, I could get it to start. Took it to the dealer, was able to replicate the issue, and dealer diagnosed the truck with a bad ECM. Tech said normally, it’s the junction block on the battery or even a bad starter. ECM replaced and all is good. Covered under warranty.
Big shoutout to Cliff for all his posts on the lowering shackles and the Sumosprings. I have a 1” drop and my fifth wheel was chucking. I put Sumosprings on and it really smoothed things out. I think I was hitting the bump stops before.
You will be way over on GVWR and on payload. Payload, which is listed on the yellow sticker on the door jamb, will be around 2,000 pounds for that combination and it includes pin weight plus occupants plus whatever is in/on the truck. You will be way over. That said, the GVWR is more about registration and taxes than anything and the GVWR is what’s limiting payload. Look up the specs for the axle and tires. With suspension mods, in theory, you should be good up to the ratings for a SRW 3500. I have a gasser 2500HD with 3,000# payload and a camper at about 11k with about 2,200 on the pin. I’m well within limits. A 13,5000 FW should do fine but you will be over your GVWR. I wouldn’t hesitate to tow that trailer with a diesel but depending on where you live, you may need to pay for a higher GVWR when registering the truck.
I’m 2wd and one of the 4wd guys will need to chime in. But two thoughts. First, you can likely drop 2” and end up level given the factory rake. Second, I think you can adjust front height, if needed, via torsion bars....just get an alignment afterwards. Someone on another forum suggested hooking up and then leveling the trailer front/rear using wood shims or your preferred device and figuring out how much it takes to get things level. If you need just 1 or 2 inches, the shackles should work well for you. More than that and you’ll need to raise the trailer with a sub-frame. Depending on your pin weight, a 2” drop may put you in a position where you won’t have enough suspension travel and you will be hitting the bump stops. If you need to go with a 2 inch drop, you may need to get some timbrens or similar. Once you you get the trailer level then you can figure out if you need to drop the front to get the truck level when towing.
Just put 5100s in my 2015 2500HD with one inch rear drop. Totally transformed the ride of the truck in a great way. The ride is sooooooo much better. And my truck only has 37k miles. Easy swap. About an hour if you don’t use air tools.
While inconvenient, give them time to make it right. Sounds like they did at. I guess no one remembers buying a new car in the 70's and headaches that followed. Having the truck in for a week or two is a bit of a drag but not unreasonable so long as they provide a loaner or rental. I guess we consumers expect a new product, even cars, to be issue free and if they aren't, we expect to be able to take it back for a refund like taking back a defective coffee maker to Wal-Mart. Yah, it's a drag to spend that kind of money and have defects, but it happens. Go buy a new RV and see how many trips you have to make back to the dealer to get things fixed.
While the old shackles are on, mark the area on the bed lip above the shackle. About one inch fore and aft of that center mark should be good. Make verticals cuts and if you are using a small cutoff wheel, cut horizontally about a 1/4" below the bed. I tried folding it over at first but that was not working out so well and you need to be careful not to deform the topside of the bed. It's a relatively easy install and it's much easier if you have a 90* cutoff wheel. I had a vibration at low speed when towing my TT. I put in 2* shims and that took care of most of the issue. McGaughy's sells a 2.5* shim, too. I may try that to see if it cures all of the vibrations. I would recommend measuring the driveshaft angles prior to install so you have a baseline measure to work with. Then you can buy the right shims to bring things back to standard. You may never notice the vibration even without the shims...won't know until you try.
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