Hi all, thought I would post this in the event someone else has a similar problem. 2015 Sierra 6.0. 40k miles. Truck would not crank when the key was turned. Screens would go blank and nothing. If I tried enough times, I could get it to start. Took it to the dealer, was able to replicate the issue, and dealer diagnosed the truck with a bad ECM. Tech said normally, it’s the junction block on the battery or even a bad starter. ECM replaced and all is good. Covered under warranty.
Big shoutout to Cliff for all his posts on the lowering shackles and the Sumosprings. I have a 1” drop and my fifth wheel was chucking. I put Sumosprings on and it really smoothed things out. I think I was hitting the bump stops before.
You will be way over on GVWR and on payload. Payload, which is listed on the yellow sticker on the door jamb, will be around 2,000 pounds for that combination and it includes pin weight plus occupants plus whatever is in/on the truck. You will be way over. That said, the GVWR is more about registration and taxes than anything and the GVWR is what’s limiting payload. Look up the specs for the axle and tires. With suspension mods, in theory, you should be good up to the ratings for a SRW 3500. I have a gasser 2500HD with 3,000# payload and a camper at about 11k with about 2,200 on the pin. I’m well within limits. A 13,5000 FW should do fine but you will be over your GVWR. I wouldn’t hesitate to tow that trailer with a diesel but depending on where you live, you may need to pay for a higher GVWR when registering the truck.
I’m 2wd and one of the 4wd guys will need to chime in. But two thoughts. First, you can likely drop 2” and end up level given the factory rake. Second, I think you can adjust front height, if needed, via torsion bars....just get an alignment afterwards. Someone on another forum suggested hooking up and then leveling the trailer front/rear using wood shims or your preferred device and figuring out how much it takes to get things level. If you need just 1 or 2 inches, the shackles should work well for you. More than that and you’ll need to raise the trailer with a sub-frame. Depending on your pin weight, a 2” drop may put you in a position where you won’t have enough suspension travel and you will be hitting the bump stops. If you need to go with a 2 inch drop, you may need to get some timbrens or similar. Once you you get the trailer level then you can figure out if you need to drop the front to get the truck level when towing.
Just put 5100s in my 2015 2500HD with one inch rear drop. Totally transformed the ride of the truck in a great way. The ride is sooooooo much better. And my truck only has 37k miles. Easy swap. About an hour if you don’t use air tools.
While inconvenient, give them time to make it right. Sounds like they did at. I guess no one remembers buying a new car in the 70's and headaches that followed. Having the truck in for a week or two is a bit of a drag but not unreasonable so long as they provide a loaner or rental. I guess we consumers expect a new product, even cars, to be issue free and if they aren't, we expect to be able to take it back for a refund like taking back a defective coffee maker to Wal-Mart. Yah, it's a drag to spend that kind of money and have defects, but it happens. Go buy a new RV and see how many trips you have to make back to the dealer to get things fixed.
While the old shackles are on, mark the area on the bed lip above the shackle. About one inch fore and aft of that center mark should be good. Make verticals cuts and if you are using a small cutoff wheel, cut horizontally about a 1/4" below the bed. I tried folding it over at first but that was not working out so well and you need to be careful not to deform the topside of the bed. It's a relatively easy install and it's much easier if you have a 90* cutoff wheel. I had a vibration at low speed when towing my TT. I put in 2* shims and that took care of most of the issue. McGaughy's sells a 2.5* shim, too. I may try that to see if it cures all of the vibrations. I would recommend measuring the driveshaft angles prior to install so you have a baseline measure to work with. Then you can buy the right shims to bring things back to standard. You may never notice the vibration even without the shims...won't know until you try.
Great feedback. My goal would be to keep 65 on hills. For Spasch, do you have to turn in fourth gear all the time or can you hold fifth on level ground? Ever hit hills (think Florida type hills here ) where you need third just to hold speed? My concern will be that merging onto the highway would take forever and be dangerous or that I wouldn't be able to hold 65 on rolling hills. More power is always nice but I don't see a DMax in my future. I only halve so much money and I want to retire some day. I got a little over 8 mpg towing my 6k TT up from Orlando to Stone Mountain (outside of Atlanta). Some of the longer hills took fourth to hold 70 but it was a fairly easy tow. Most of the ride was in sixth with dips into fifth depending on grade. The "half-ton" fifth wheels out there would be about 2k lighter. Not sure if 10k vs 12k makes much of a difference.
Hi guys, I'm thinking of getting a Jayco Eagle 325BHQS fifth wheel. Loaded, I'd be at 12,000 to 12,500. I'm in Florida and might go as far north as Georgia. Anyone towing a fifth wheel that size with a 6.0? My truck is a 2015 CC 2wd. Thanks
Ok...so I took my truck to the tire shop to get the tires rotated and balanced. I had a bit of feathering on the front tires. Those were rotated to the rear. On checkout, the tire guy suggested I do a couple burnouts to knock down the feathering. Soooo...I turned off traction control and stabilitrack, held the brake, hit the gas, waited two seconds and let it fly. A couple of nice patches ended up on the asphalt. Given this thread, I wasn't expecting much but it spun up pretty fast and easy. I still have a little feathering, so I'll lay a few more short patches.
I took some measures. The main shaft coming down is at about 3* to level. The rear pinion on mine after a 2* shim is also at 3*. I think my setup is correct as the pinion and main shaft at carrier are at the same angle.
I don't know the answer, but I did the same thing and installed 2* shims. Without, I was getting a slight vibration at slow speed when towing my camper. With the shims, I get a slight vibration at around 40 if I try to accelerate slowly and I'm in top gear. Not sure that's a pinion angle issue. I'm thinking of calling McGaughly's to see what they recommend.
Shall36 replied to boynton6spd's topic in 2015-2019 Chevy Silverado & GMC Sierra HDThe diesel trucks take a big hit in payload rating, if you care about that stuff. For example, a diesel 2500HD will run out of payload before it runs out of towing capacity. Not a big deal for all trailers, but can be a big deal for fifth wheel RVs. Again, only if you care about staying under the rating.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 105 Members, 0 Anonymous, 660 Guests (See full list)
- L86 All Terrain
- [email protected]
- 300 Blackout
- Move Over
- Derek Bodziak
- Dock Rocker
- kickass audio
- Doug McIvor