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About Shall36

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  1. I suspect going to a larger tube will not help, but here’s a relatively easy way to see. T in a vacuum gauge to a vacuum port behind the throttle body...most any port should do. Run the line into the cab or rig something up so you can see the gauge while driving. If you go full throttle and the gauge drops to 0, there’s no restriction. Watch the gauge through the RPM sweep as more rpm will require more air. If you do see a restriction (I.e., vacuum showing > 0), it could also be the air filter. there may also be a MAP reading accessible through obd2, which would be easier to monitor, but I’m not sure.
  2. Please link or cite a state or federal statue that says the manufacturer’s GVWR cannot be exceeded by law. In some states, you can register at higher or lower GVWRs. For non-commercial applications, weight is rarely, if ever, enforced. For non-commercial applications, what is enforceable? Serious questions here as there’s a lot of stuff posted on the matter but I’ve not found any citations of specific law that addresses this.
  3. DOT, from what I understand, only cares about RAWR and tire rating. The tax man might care about GVWR because you didn’t pay enough tax for your loading. You’ll also read about how if you are over GVWR that your insurance won’t cover you in an accident and all that jazz. This is another internet lore and I’ve not seen a real example where his has happened (it may exist and hopefully someone with a link to a case will post it here). Last I checked, it’s illegal to speed, make an improper left turn, drink and drive, but coverage isn’t automatically denied. I suppose if you were way over loaded, to the point of gross negligence, you might be in trouble. Also, if you are at fault, you are at fault; doesn’t matter if you are over weight unless you were so overweight that it was a contributing factor in the accident then maybe there’s additional punishment or liability? And anyone can sue anyone, but contingency fee lawyers much rather go after insurance policies because they actually pay. Good luck getting a $500k+ judgement paid by Joe Schmo; garnish his $50k a year salary and renew the judgement every 7 years. That’s how those big accident attorneys get rich. (Insert rolling eyes emoji to indicate sarcasm; lots of folks can’t detect sarcasm just by reading text). if you’re going fifth wheel, the 3500 setup is preferable. They are harder to find. The 2500’s are plenty capable. Just go to a campground and see what gets towed with a 2500 class truck of any brand.
  4. I had a intermittent light problem, too, and the issue was that I had tapped into some of the wires under the dash that connect to the body control module. I was doing that when I was wiring up my tow mirrors. In the process, the connection for the wire that controls one of the headlights was compromised. Fixed that, problem solved.
  5. So if your wife is like mine, she hates the non-power passenger seat in your truck. The seat is too low (and can't be raised) and feels like you fall into it because there's no lower back support. On long trips, she would sit on a pillow and stuff a towel behind her lower back. The manual passenger seat has two main flaws: it's way too low and it has no support. I have a 10-way power seat on the driver side and the lumbar support works pretty good. So I took off the back panel to see how the power lumbar adjuster works. There's a plastic panel attached to the seat frame on one side and a motorized cable on the other. The motor pulls the cable taught to increase lumbar support and relaxes to less support. On the passenger seat, that lower panel is a wire mesh attached by metal rods to the seat frame and it's obviously so slack that it won't provide any support unless the seat occupant is of very good size (my wife's not small but she's not big). I found some packing material that came with a TV...it's not Styrofoam...it's more of that plastic webbing stuff...and shaped it to the right width and right thickness. I shoved that between the seat back and the wire support. With a little trial and error, it's just right and very comfortable. Second problem solved. The first problem of being too low is actually a really easy fix. There's a fellow who makes rails that will raise up the passenger seat to the same height you would get if you had a power seat. It was an easy install and less than $100. https://seating-solutions.com/ The seat is much more comfortable and my wife is thrilled. Prior to doing this mod, I considered buying a new truck and buying a power seat out of the junkyard. The first option was really expensive. ? Even a junkyard power seat was $300 and the ones I found didn't have heat. I know some folks like to swap in a complete leather interior, but I didn't want to drop the $1,500+ to do that plus the wiring nightmare. The manual passenger seat isn't the greatest seat in the world, but for less than $100 and about 1 hour of time, you can make it a lot more comfortable.
  6. FWIW, I appraised my 2015 2500HD SLE 2wd 6.0 with 59k miles on Carvana about 2weeks ago. They offered $32k! That’s about $10k more than dealers were offering on trade. If you are buying a new truck, strongly consider selling to Carvana. I decided to not buy a new truck so I didn’t go through with the sale to Carvana, so maybe that number was too good to be true.
  7. At 41’, I think you’ll be heavier than 13.5K. I would go by the GVWR on the trailer. If they let you test tow before buying, do it. You will be close on payload. The truck will pull it but it won’t be a lot of fun. At 11k in Florida on a hot day, there’s a lot of downshifting and revving and such. if the Reese gooseneck pin box will bolt up, give that serious consideration. At about $1,200, not too much more than the Andersen and cheaper than an Andersen plus cushioned pinbox combo. the Curt double lock is a great value. If you go Anderson or any hitch that adapts to a ball, you cannot use a functional pivoting pin box; you have to lock the turret in place. That’s only an issue if you have cap to window clearance problems. I had to flip my Andersen ball receiver around to clear the pin box to tailgate but still get a tight turn. Not 90* but plenty. You can see the axles on my trailer shift out of line with each other once you hit about 60*...doing a full jackknife might rip them off.
  8. I have the Curt double lock gooseneck and the Andersen Ultimate. Install of the Curt was a bit of a PITA but doable on your back in the driveway and basic tools, though you will need a cutoff wheel to trim the muffler shield. Also, buy a good holes saw. Every setup is different. Originally, I had a Reese Revolution and the setup was perfect. I put in a morryde orbital, which is taller, and now it’s a bit nose high. My camper does not accommodate a standard bolt pattern pin box so my options are very limited. If I had a camper with a standard set of pin box wings I would be using a Reese Gooseneck pin box. Is that 12k weight dry or GVWR? If it’s 41’, there’s no way it’s 12k ready to camp. My 29’ HT trailer I scaled at just under 11k this weekend with about 2,200 on the pin. My truck GVWR was just under 9,500. There’s no way I would do a 14k trailer with the 6.0 if I plan to camp on a regular basis and I’m in flat Florida.
  9. No gasser will pull the same as a diesel. A 6.0 will pull your weight but it will definitely work. I pull about 10,500 with my gasser and it does ok. No grades here in Florida.
  10. I know that some vehicles will mark the odometer if this or similar is done. This mark signifies that the odometer has been tampered with. I do not know what will happen with this truck, but it’s worth researching.
  11. There are a couple threads on this. There’s a module at the rear of the truck that can have intermittent connectivity.
  12. Can’t speak to the noise, but my long term mpg is 10. A large portion of my miles are towing and the rest are in town. 14 - 17 on the highway unloaded is normal
  13. It’s an easy job but can be messy. Just drop the pan, swap filters, and fill it back up. If you’ve never done one before and aren’t set up with a big drain pan and stuff, maybe just pay someone to do it for you. It’s about a 45 min job for me if I take my time and don’t make a mess. Make sure you seat the filter completely or you will burn up the trans.
  14. A standard drain and fill with filter change is more than adequate. I changed mine at 40k and I tow a fifth wheel a lot. That fluid was very clean and very red. Unless you’re over 100k or have really heated that unit up on many occasions, I think it’s overkill. I cant recall how many quarts, but I’m thinking it was six.
  15. Ford has an all new 7.3 gas motor for the 250 to 650 trucks. They are being tight lipped on figures but say it will split the difference between the 6.2 and 6.7. Its design for constant heavy loads in their medium duty trucks. Fleet buyers should be happy given simple design. I imagine they will discontinue the V10 but I don’t know that for certain. It’s a more compact package than the 6.2 as its cam in block.
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