The light bak comes with a weatherproof plug with about a nine inch pigtail. The hole in the plastic third brake light housing is sealed wit a tight fitting rubber groment with a little silicon sealer for good measure. I live in Phoenix Arizona area. We have only had a total of about two inches of rain in since I mounted the light bar, no leaks yet.
Only driven a couple of half tanks full so far, no problems. I'm sure the miles to empty is off, it has not changed since going to the bigger tank. A full tank shows about 700 miles to empty. In 15K miles I have been averaging 18.9 MPG. With a 36 gallon tank that's 680.4 miles. With the larger tank it should be 1,058.4 miles. The trucks computer is not aware of the extra fuel in the tank. If you add about 50% to the trucks estimate, you will be closer to the truth.
I was finally able to get the truck out for a road trip with the new Titan tank. After a fill-up I put 400 miles on the truck. Usually takes 60-90 miles on the highway for the fuel gauge to come off the full mark. The new tank went to 175 miles before falling below full, 40 of those miles were in town. After the 400 mile trip the fuel gauge was at 11/16 of a tank. The truck did a software update today, but I had to unplug the iDash from the OBD port before it would install successfully. This is the first software update I have noticed the truck doing since I brought it home last February. It has been to the dealership for a free oil change and tire rotation once. They may have done an update then. Photos show old and new tank installed from the driver's side, and a couple of the tank just after it came out of the box.
I received the replacement tank earlier this week. The box Titan ships the tank in is about 15 inches too long. Box was beat up pretty bad, gouges in the cardboard where the tank straps poked through and ripped the cardboard as the tank and straps slid back and forth inside the box. The tank is plastic and was in surprisingly good condition. I tried to do the replacement in the driveway, but I do not have the tools to disconnect the “quick connect” fuel line fittings. I got the old tank down, but was unable to disconnect the supply and return lines. Clearances under the truck would have made it hard to get the new tank in place under the truck, it hangs down about two inched lower, and the top sticks up higher. Going to a diesel repair shop next week to have the tank installed, I will let you know how it goes. The tank uses the original fuel pickup and level sender, so I expect the fuel level gauge to work as the original, just take longer to fall off the FULL mark. I have an iDash to backup that reading. I do expect the ‘Range’ calculation to be off in the low direction. After all, this tank is roughly 55% larger than the original equipment, so I expect the actual ‘Range’ to be half again further than reported. I think that is a good thing!
iDash says my 3500 AT4 is at 184-187, takes about ten minutes to get there. I live in Phoenix area and have not towed any significant loads yet. The digital image of an analog gauge on the drivers display, could be read as 210 degrees.
Take a look at the rear view camera, any water spots or dirt on the camera lenses? Check the camera view on the rearview mirror, is it dim too? Next turn the truck around 180 compass degrees in the same spot. The sun, a reflection of the sun or another light source may be giving the cameras problems.
The green wire with blue stripe is the +12 volt connection and the black wire does go to ground. Take a look at the link in the second post of this thread for a link to Upfitter bulletin # 157, page four and five have references to the switch connector.
Truck will still make it into the garage, but just. Garage is 23 feet to the step up and 82.5 inches from floor to bottom edge of the weather strip. The light bar deflects the weather strip ion the way in an out. Headache Rack and 52” light bar are from Magnum.
Boredom overcame the fear of drilling a hole to find the beacon, or fifth Upfitter switch, wirers. I used a 5/8 drill, the largest I have, and the smallest I would recommend. I started with a 3/8, then stepped up to a 1/2, and finally the 5/8. I was hoping to avoid chipping the paint, didn’t work, a small hole saw would have done a better job. A 1/4 ID / 5/8 OD grommet hides some of the paint chips, but not all. The two wires, hot and ground are wrapped in BLACK cloth tape making them very hard to find in the BLACK hole. The pliers just slipped on the cloth tape, the brake spring hook worked much better. I included a link to the Upfitter bulletin and a few photos. Switch number five now powers a 52 inch light bar. https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1329/UI Bulletin_157.pdf
I need help connecting to the Fifth, the # 5, Upfitter power wire in the Center High Mount Stop Lamp (CHMSL). I would like to power a headache rack mounted light bar from that switch. I have looked at the Upfitter Bulletin #157, but it does not give me enough information to identify the location to drill in the CHMSL. Has anyone in the forum done this and can add some advice, or pictures? Image below is from the bulletin. Insert other media.url
I just finished installing a Magnum Low Pro rack with existing Bak Revolver X4. I will probably reposition the anchors for the straps that secure the rolled up cover, from the cover to the second rail from the bottom on the rack. They are just too hard the get the strap’s bayonet connectors into right now. The Magnum top is above the camera and third brake light. It does not interfere with the camera view or the brake light.
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