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richard wysong

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About richard wysong

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  • Birthday 07/17/1955

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    Beverly, Mass
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  • Drives
    98 Silverado K2500, 04 Cadillac Deville

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  1. its also possible that the dog that engages the axles is stuck causing 1 side to be engaged so make sure it spins easily and you aren't spinning the spider gears
  2. reach under with it on the ground and see if you can spin the front driveshaft. it should turn easily if the transfer case is in 2wd and the hubs are disengaged. the dildo that engages the hubs are known to get stuck due to corrosion around the threads. idler arm etc will NOT make that noise
  3. sounds like theres a restriction either in the lines or the cooler itself. just the cooler in the radiator or does it have auxillary cooler? either way you need to disconnect the lines at the trans and try blowing them out dis connecting 1 thing at a time until you find the restriction. it may be easier to cut the lines near the oilpan to do this then use compression unions to put it back together
  4. sounds like the 4wd may be engaged and possibly bad ujoint in the front shaft
  5. its possible there is a burr on the end of the pulley making it harder. I assume you inspected the pump shaft, cleaned it and used some lube. if you hammered on the end of the pulley that would explain it
  6. not sure without seeing the tool, I have a Snap On 1 that will press it on too far if you're not careful. your idea of backing it out a little should work as long as you are careful not to so u dont pull the threads.
  7. a better way would be to find some washers a little bigger than the pump shaft. not sure what tool you are using? the 1 supplied with the new pump? Autozone and Advanced have free tool loaner programs and will have the installation tool that you need. the pump shaft should protrude from the pulley about 1/8 inch
  8. I agree with Big Kid, taking the bed off is the way to go. if you can't dig the rotted ends out you may have success carefully drilling them out. I believe there are repair kits available for this also. new fuel pumps are plastic so they won't rust. I'm surprised the top of the fuel tank isn't rotted
  9. sounds like a bad ground somewhere, possibly the body ground causing the system to backfeed. try using a jumper wire from the negative battery terminal and go to the body in different spots, the engine, the cab etc. u may also want to check to see if theres a fusible link somewhere in the system. sounds like you already checked all the fuses
  10. the only thing motor oil may damage is the seals and thats very unlikely. it may have already fried a bearing so its probably going to have to come apart anyway. common leak is where the 2 case halfs meet, to fix that it has to come apart to reseal it.
  11. thats about right for the whole job including trans and warrantee
  12. Ive seen them just chatter under light acceleration and be quiet otherwise. an experienced tech will know the sound. could be in the transfer also. there is a multi channel remote listening device that some shops use to diagnose wheel bearing noise etc.' its easy to drop the driveshaft . should only take 10 min on a lift to eliminate that possibility
  13. I assume you have checked the ground from the battery to the body? its possible it got damaged swapping the batteries. maybe try running a redundant ground to the body from the bat
  14. did you pull the driveshaft to check the ujoints? sounds like you may have 1 frozen that a shake test won't show
  15. my mistake the 22 Denali is a 2500 so Im not sure changing the shocks will help much w the truck like feel he's experiencing but I'm sure he's going to want to try that before exchanging the truck for another 1500
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