This is great information and if I made add using a quality full synthetic AFT fluid will also help. Synthetic resists break down at higher temperatures to help increase transmission life, plus it helps keep it cleaner inside.
Same person/shop that does the re-build? Sounds like they are not setting up the gears correctly. What exactly is going bad? Axle bearings, gears going bad? Something isn't right and I say it is the way the rear is being put together.
Curious, what is the purpose of this? Does it turn the reverse lights on when you put on the brakes?
It is my understanding that it is going to be hard to get a good dyno reading on theses since they can't access the ECM to lock out all the nannies and be able to hold it in gear for the run. When they had mine on the dyno, he was having a hard time keeping it in gear and not down shifting as he eased the throttle in. Also another problem was running into the speed limiter. Since you can't turn that off either. So if anyone comes in with good dyno results, I want to know how they did it since the main things that get in the way of a dyno pull can't be turned off.
Interesting that this is a slip yoke issue still. I know GM had issues back in 2002 like on my 2002 Silverado and the fix was to change out to a Nickle plated slip yoke, which they did on mine and it fixed the clunk.
Heat will hurt a battery as well but the reason most see issues in the cold is because of the extra CCA's it takes to turn the engine over when it is cold due to the thicker oil and electrical draw from the starter. Plus if you are a short trip person then the battery doesn't get charged like it would and each start cycle draws it down more and more and no long drive to charge it back to full.
I would think it was a bad battery from the start. It should be covered under warranty still. There is going to be a bunch of battery changes in the next few months as the weather gets cold and individuals find out that the battery in their vehicles are at their end of life. I see it every year as I go into auto parts stores and they have empty shelves where the batteries are kept.
I was going to say that you basically got use to hearing it and just didn't notice it anymore. What gets me is why does it do it? All the vehicles on the road for how many years and you never really heard such a loud sound. What is the main reason for it now? Don't say it is because of DI engines. There are plenty out that are DI and you don't hear the pump. Just curious is all as to why it is so loud now.
Why? The only reason to change it out is if you are having issues. There are all kinds of LS engines out there with well over 300K miles on the original timing chain. Are you have timing issues? If so then just go back with a factory chain. No need to go with anything special.
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