Everything posted by Black02Silverado
Like you stated the economy you are getting with the 6.2, imagine how much better the Dmax will get over what it is rated for. With that in mind the extra cost of diesel, which here is less than premium (at least around here it is) it will pay for it's self sooner. As for increased oil changes, I don't think that will be an extra cost. Especially on how many don't care what it cost to change their oil when so many are changing out Mobil 1 oil every 3k miles. So this baby Dmax grocery getter wouldn't be much more to own than any other 1500. The only issue is going to be the emission system. That is going to be a something of an interest since there seems to be all kinds of problems with them and why so many delete them.
That seems normal to me for the mileage. I understand it was higher and that is what you are use to but like stated above as long as it is 15psi or higher at idle is fine. Rule of thumb is 1K RPM for every psi of pressure so 10psi at 1,000 RPM is all that is needed to properly lube the system. Just curious, any change to the use of a different oil and filter?
At 50k a pan drop and filter/fluid change will work well. As stated, get a pan with a drain plug and then at each oil change change out the fluid in the transmission as well for the next 4 to 5 changes. It will keep the fluid fresh and it is easy to do since you will have a drain plug. I was going to get a stock pan and put a plug in it myself. I know a guy that can Tig weld. So it will be a nice clean and sealed weld.
Yeah, after researching it more and seeing on the new that people are dying from carbon monoxide poisoning due to forgetting to turn off their vehicle when they get home. This mainly has been Toyota vehicles. So I guess it is a safety feature.
Imagine running down the interstate doing 70mph and that line letting loose. It wouldn't take long for the engine to run dry and you being able to get off the road safely. Not to mention the oil slick on the road that you just left. This issue is just crazy!
You can do a full fluid exchange by disconnecting the return line from the cooler and putting a tube on the end of that and into a bucket. Then start the truck up and let the transmission pump out the fluid into the bucket. When you see it start to slow down and get air in it, shut off the truck, add 4 more qts to the transmission and repeat. It will take 16qts to completely exchange the old fluid to new fluid. The only thing that makes it harder on the 2014 models and up is that there is a thermostat on the transmission fluid lines on the side of the transmission and so no fluid will flow through the cooler until it is hot enough for the thermostat to open. There are several Youtube video's showing how to by-pass the thermostat. You want to have the fluid run through the cooler so that you exchange all the fluid out of the system and not leave any of the old fluid in the cooler. The thermostat makes it a little harder to accomplish but it can be done.
Give me your address in a PM and I can get you a quote on the cost for 2qt squeeze packs of the AMSOIL ATL transmission fluid. If there is anything else you might want let me know.
Unless you are the guy that fills the oil at the factory, nobody really knows which one. You will get all kinds of answers but for me to believe it, I would have to see exactly what is in the container that fills the engines as they get assembled. One has to remember, manufactures are getting parts from the lowest bidder. It is all about $$$$.
Following the owners manual is good. For me getting the diff fluid out early like around 5k you get the wear material out. Then you can let it go for 100k or more using a good quality synthetic depending on how you use your truck. If you tow/haul then another change out at 50k is good. Transmission I do early as well, then change out every 50k using a good quality synthetic. For as often as you would change out the fluid at every 50k that isn't much of an issue cost wise. Doing this if you plan on keeping your truck a long time like it seems you do will help make sure it will last.
The front differential isn't easy to change. No drain plug like on the K2's and older. Why they eliminated it is probably to save money like always. Just like getting rid of the drain plug on the transmission pans and rear axle. Love my 2002 Silverado for all those reasons. Drain plugs everywhere.
Funny you mention the TSB. My 2002 was using a qt every 5k miles. Then an oil leak started and in my hunt to fix it, one thing was to replace the intake and valley cover gasket along with the oil pressure switch and valve covers. Turns out that was my oil consumption issue. Once I replaced all that no more consumption and I'm at 189k miles. So it might be worth looking into.
Can't go wrong with a synthetic that is for sure. I would go with a 5w-30 if it was mine. 10w-30 wouldn't hurt a thing either. Take your pick off the Walmart shelf on any of these weights. Oil leaks suck. Get it all sealed up and enjoy that new ride. Oil filters as well pick your choice of either house brand Car Quest, Napa or you can go with AC/Delco or Wix. What are your plans for oil changes, 5K miles? Has the differential fluids been changed as well as the rest of the fluids? Power steering always seems to get neglected.
Not sure what GM is doing these days. Not including towing mirrors in an all new truck is just crazy. But hey, you can get them on a 2020 model. I went the route in my 2014 Chevy Cruze to add the Homelink to the center headliner consol. I purchased a used one off ebay for $20 and wired it in. Looks factory since I was able to get the same gray color as the consol. Might be able to do the same. The Homelink I got was out of a ford sun visor.
Nitrogen is used in all the aircraft tires in the military. Not sure about the civilian sector. Also isn't it used in all race car tires? Again, to me the small benefits in our vehicles isn't worth the cost.
My personal experience is that it didn't make a difference in the two vehicles I had nitrogen in. So if you have to pay for it I say don't bother. The air we breath contains 78.9% nitrogen. As for the TPM relearn. It is easy and this tool is what you need. Directions on Youtube in your owners manual.
Did you replace the seal that the filter pushes up into? Maybe it is sucking air? The filters are pretty easy to tell apart, at least mine were on my 4L60E for my 2002 silverado. When placed side by side there is a noticeable difference. How many miles are on the vehicle? When was the last time the fluid was changed prior to this change? You can see my filter side by side in this post.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 151 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,037 Guests (See full list)
- Brandon Adams
- Penguin VII
- Charles P.
- Marcel Almeida
- Alec DiAstra
- Sean Hartley
- Jc hevy
- C Payne
- Austin Cox
- RB Racing
- kickass audio