Been that way for many years. The dealer will not take the mirror apart and play with gears--they will just replace the entire mirror assembly, which requires removing the inner door panel. As long as it gets power and folds at all, they will call it good. Reset it according to the owner's manual and learn to live with it, or have it replaced. FWIW, just had the passenger mirror on our '09 Silverado replaced with an OEM-style aftermarket unit (don't know what brand--the body shop did it), and it folds faster, quieter, and smoother than the OEM GM part ever did.
2009 Silverado crew cab, 5.3L LC9 engine, 6L80E transmission. Brake fluid keeps mysteriously slowly disappearing from master cylinder. (Several small bottles of DOT3 over the last couple of years.) When master cylinder gets half full, MIL lamp lights and Service Brakes Soon appears in DIC. Brakes function normally, even when fluid level gets lower. Local dealer says they THINK (?!) the master cylinder is leaking into the brake booster [they say to diagnose will require removal of master cylinder and brake booster and by then I'll be on the hook for a few hundred $], requiring replacement of both the master cylinder and the brake booster. Does that sound right, that the brake booster would also need replaced? Same dealer says I can't do it myself, because I would have no way to properly bleed the ABS brake system. Is that correct? I've driven many vehicles a couple of million miles, but I've never had a master cylinder leak before. Drum brake wheel cylinders, yes, but not a master cylinder. Thanks!
If you don't use the GM lift and have the GM dealer install it, almost all GM dealers today (unless your father or brother-in-law owns the dealership) would unfortunately use that as an excuse to say you have NO WARRANTY anymore.
Not a problem. After a few miles, that little piece of paper will think it's a chicken that got caught in a tractor's nuts.
A long time ago in a galaxy far away, I had a new GM car that had a lot of troubles from day one. After a while, I bought the top-of-the-line GM protection plan extended warranty. Cost like $1200 at the time, which was a crap ton of $ for me at that particular time, while making big car payments. Ended up getting something like $4600 worth of warranty work done at no extra cost to me. And there were some things I didn't think they would cover that they replaced without even arguing about it. So in my opinion, it was $ very well spent. It all depends on your vehicle and how long you want to keep it, and how willing your dealer is to do warranty work.
Right. Back in reality, they ask thousands of vehicle owners like myself what problems we’ve had with new vehicles. Those “opinions” aka actual results are what they used to issue a new GM truck categorization of “Do Not Buy” because of poor reliability.
1) Old news. Key word there being COMBINED. Ford and Ram vs Chevy by itself is not pretty. Note that Ram has now moved past Chevy into 2nd place. 2) So that's why RAM just won Motor Trend's Truck of the Year for an unprecedented 3 years in a row! 3) So that's why Consumer Reports just put ALL new Silverados/Sierras/Colorados/Canyons in their "Do Not Buy" category due to poor reliability!
Factory sizes were P265/70R-17, P265/65R-18, and P275/55R-20. The 17 inch factory wheels were 7.5 inches wide, the 18 inchers were 8 inches wide, and the 20 inchers were 9 inches wide. If you stay with those factory sizes and wheel offsets (available online), you won't have any rubbing. The 17 inch tires are generally less expensive, have more brands available in that size, ride softer, and offer better flotation for off-road use. The 18's and 20's generally handle better, ride rougher, cost more, and have less brands available as you go bigger. You have to have at least 17 inch wheels to clear the factory disc brakes up front. If you ever use tire chains you'll want to go with the 17 inchers.
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