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MaverickZ71

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MaverickZ71 last won the day on December 13 2020

MaverickZ71 had the most liked content!

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  • Name
    Bret
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    Chevy Silverado 1500 CC Z71 4x4

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  1. Stuff a blue paper shop towel or two in the end of your cap wrench. Then it won’t skip anymore, provided you have the right size of cap wrench to begin with. I went to the auto parts store, got one of my preferred oil filters out of the box, and went through all of the cap wrenches hanging on the rack to find the one that fit tightest. Metal ones are best, as the plastic ones can flex and skip.
  2. Correct. Because of the bad press [engines grenading during high-performance usage when the plastic internals of the oil filter came apart] on the early “e-core” filters (the ones with the part number ending in the letter “E”, with the plastic cages, thin cans, and felt end caps) AC Delco just took the “E” off the end of the part numbers and increased the price by 50%+, thinking we wouldn’t notice and sales would increase. These cheap e-core type filters are junk compared to a quality oil filter like a NAPA Gold, WIX XP, or AC Delco Ultraguard Gold. Scuttlebutt says the “E” stood for Economy and Ease of Recycling. I’d take better Filtering.
  3. Sounds like a plan. FYI, I removed the Range AFM-delete module from the OBD-II port on our ‘09 Silverado (5.3L, 6L-80E) and replaced it with Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 programming, looking forward to “improved performance” with the premium fuel tune. The only perceived difference was immediately the transmission flared shifts and slipped. That was at 60k miles. Put it right back on factory tune, and there was never any more flaring or slipping. Like they say, your mileage may vary. Hope you can get it fixed and enjoy your truck.
  4. Sounds like you’re on top of that other stuff, and the problem is really transmission related. Maybe a transmission-related drivability issue is why why the “cooler was flushed” after the filter and fluid change, and why the truck was sold. There are those on here that say if you don’t change the transmission fluid and filter according to the severe maintenance intervals, even in normal use, there will be later ramifications, usually internal wear that can lead to slipping. If not ever changed until high mileage, it has been recommended not to change it at all, because the new slick fluid combined with the worn parts may very well result in slippage. Some have even drained the new fluid and refilled with the old (filtered) fluid to continue driving. Mechanic Scotty Kilmer on Youtube talks a lot about this. Hopefully one of the GMT900/transmission/torque convertor experts on here can chime in with more ideas for you. If not, you might repost directly under the “Ask the GM technician” section.
  5. Miles on truck? Any collapsed AFM lifter or spun lifter/worn cam noises? Transmission fluid and filter ever changed? Spark plugs oil fouled? No other trouble codes? You might try running some premium fuel with a couple bottles of Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner [same as GM fuel system cleaner, but available at Walmart and O’Reillys] (note not Techron’s similar fuel INJECTION cleaner) in it, and then giving it an “Italian tuneup”—some full throttle applications. Our ‘09 runs like a dog on regular fuel (even from Top Tier stations) but perks up on premium. I run a tank of fuel with Techron FS cleaner through our Silverado about every 3-4 months—among other things, it helps clean the AFM oil fouling off the spark plugs. Also, try running in manual mode on the transmission, with 4th gear selected as the top available gear. These trucks were programmed to shift up into 6th gear overdrive way too fast in the name of fuel economy instead of drivability, which can bog things down, especially on any type of incline when all fluids are not yet at full normal operating temperature. Be glad yours has the optional 3.42 rear gear; any bogging is even worse with the standard 3.08 gear. Be sure to run Dexos1 rated synthetic motor oil (to help prevent piston ring fouling, blowback, and PCV problems) with a good quality oil filter, and consider a Range module or PCM tune to turn off AFM as soon as possible to lessen the chance of any future AFM problems. Most of us that turned off AFM noticed little if any change in fuel economy.
  6. When I want help from the likes of you, I’ll ask for it. And that ain’t never gonna happen!
  7. The way GM sucks on everything these days, this is just one more last nail in the coffin. There will be no government bailout on their next bankruptcy, unless the transfer GM HQ to Ukraine.
  8. Dude obviously has absolutely no knowledge of the history of DOD/AFM/DFM problems.
  9. Excluding all the AFM lifter failures and ruined cams.
  10. Then they can update the headings. Whatever they do—it wouldn’t take 5 minutes, but the fact is they haven’t paid attention to or given a sh1t about their creation for 2 years. Unprofessional at best.
  11. 4-and-a-half months after this original post, and still no new forum sections have been created for the 2022/2023/new models. Evidently the Admins really did abandon the forums on this site a couple of years ago! Without so much as a note telling us thanks and it had been nice! (But alas, not abandoned until after they choked the useful functionality of the site clear down with all the ads, and then had their own Moderators tell us to block the ads to continue to view the site, which is the very definition of asinine.) Oh well, at least the last people on here can read all about Marty’s weekly oil changes.
  12. It is my understanding that these models have auto-ride-height and auto-ride adjustment via airbag airsprings on the rear suspension only. My family has one of these SUVs (never towed anything or hauled anything more than luggage) that has apparently just developed a consistent slight sag of 2-3 inches on the right rear only. The air system does pump up at startup and the left rear is at original ride height. Is there a serviceable sensor for the right rear only, or if not, ideas on how to repair?
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