ksiesel

How difficult was it to get the old one off the valve cover, and did you end up breaking any of the plastic off that you struggled to find among the rockers?

Can you give the part number for this? Also, can you confirm that you didn't need to modify the locking grooves prior to installing?

You are correct to be cautious before ordering. If it were me, I’d make sure anything I ordered fit a 2018 as well before I ordered it since as you know, your 2019 LD is really the same truck as a 2018.

On the 2018’s, there is no RPO code sticker anymore. They now use a barcode this is in the drivers door frame. You can scan it with a QR code reader and it will tell you a partial RPO options list. The best way to approach it though is to send your VIN to GM Customer Care and ask for the build sheet report OR do the same with your local dealer. They can pull it up on GM’s system and print it for you.

It is a thermal barrier that is intended to reduce the stress due to thermal expansion on the joint between the condenser and the tank that is attached to the drivers side of the condenser. I would say the jury is still out as to how effective this is as a fix, but this is certainly the area where most people are having cracks that cause all of their refrigerant to leak out and then have no A/C.

I haven’t looked at the K2 fuel tank pressure sensor setup, but I replaced the sensor on my GMT900 without removing the tank or the bed. I managed to lay under it and reach my arm around the tank and do it completely by feel. This may be an option for the K2 as well. On the GMT900, the fuel tank pressure sensor had no mounting hardware, it was just a grommet on the sensor that you press through the hole in the fuel tank header plate. All I had to do was unhook the electrical connector and pry the sensor out of the bushing.

Have you considered a GM 1500 with the 2.7 Turbo. I don’t think that has AFM and many are liking that mill. I personally have not driven one.

Gmt900 and k2xx both use 315 so your proposed swap is fine. It’s the new T1 that uses 433.

I have a set of 17” to run in the winter and the 20” that came on the truck stock. I’m quite confident that the 17” gives a more compliant ride over small road imperfections (think cracks in pavement). Another benefit of the smaller wheel is that you really don’t have to worry at all about curbing the rim because the smaller wheels have enough tire sidewall that the tire takes the brunt of any contact.

Sounds like you are switching between V4 and V8 modes. The TC unlocks for each transition between the two as I’ve noticed this on my truck too. Watch the Fuel Economy screen in your truck on your next drive. It should have an indicator for V4 and V8. I bet that moments after you see the “flare”, you’ll see a shift from V4 to V8 or vice versa.

There is an option in the settings menu for the park assist sensors to be enabled with a trailer hitch. Do you have this turned on? It may help here, but I’m not sure as I haven’t done it myself.

I see most are doing the cargo on with reverse using a diode, but why couldn’t this one just be done with a piece of wire (no diode)? I think it would then give you Cargo on with Reverse as well as reverse on with cargo. I don’t see where this would be a bad thing and would give more light around the rear of the truck when loading / unloading with the cargo switch too.

For those who want to go back to stock for trade in, why couldn’t you just do this mod as suggested but remove the belt from the vac pump and leave the vac pump installed (cap the vac port as it’ll probably see crankcase pressure with the pump not being driven)? In this way, the vac pump will still have oil flow through it and it won’t be able to flow out the vac port. The pump won’t be turning so it won’t develop any vacuum or take any power from the crank. When you want to go back to stock, just put the belt back on and route the plumbing back to stock.

I thought I read on here that GM extended the injector coverage on the K2xx GDI injectors. I’m sure if you do a search, you’ll find something about it.

Could the reason for turning the fans on when the coolant temp doesn't come up be a fail safe for a failed in range coolant temp sensor? By turning the fans on, you prevent engine overheat in this scenario. Back in the days of a belt driven mechanical fan clutch, this wasn't needed as the fan clutch was reacting to the heat coming off the rad and they were designed to fail full on.