Each sensor has a unique sensor ID. Your truck has a table that these sensor ID's are written into when you do the sensor learn procedure. If you removed the sensors from the vehicle (as they were pulled with the wheels), you will get a TPMS light after you drive enough. Having said that, if you put your old wheels and tires in the bed, your truck will go on reading them and not give any codes or lights. When you perform the TPMS learn procedure, what you are doing is telling the truck which sensor ID to write to memory that each wheel location (LF, RF, RR, LR) in that order.
The dealer may be offering you a bit on the low side for your ‘17. One thing to remember is that you will not be paying tax on the trade in value so if the dealer offers $50k for trade and your sales tax rate is 7%, that would be $3500. If you were to do a private party sale, that’s how much more you’d have to sell it for to break even.
It’s not a T1, but the magnetic ride on my 2018 Denali is impressive. It’s the best riding truck I’ve ever driven.
In the 2018, it’s not really a seat cooler as there is no cooling module in the system. Instead, it’s a ventilation fan so until your cabin temp comes down (from the A/C), all they are doing is pulling hot air through the seat. In terms of flow, they pull the air through the seat and blow it out the back and bottom. There are two fan motors per seat, one for the bottom and one for the back. I have actually been pretty impressed with how much difference the ventilation makes vs just having a standard leather seat.
On the 2018’s, there is no RPO code sticker anymore. They now use a barcode this is in the drivers door frame. You can scan it with a QR code reader and it will tell you a partial RPO options list. The best way to approach it though is to send your VIN to GM Customer Care and ask for the build sheet report OR do the same with your local dealer. They can pull it up on GM’s system and print it for you.
It is a thermal barrier that is intended to reduce the stress due to thermal expansion on the joint between the condenser and the tank that is attached to the drivers side of the condenser. I would say the jury is still out as to how effective this is as a fix, but this is certainly the area where most people are having cracks that cause all of their refrigerant to leak out and then have no A/C.
I haven’t looked at the K2 fuel tank pressure sensor setup, but I replaced the sensor on my GMT900 without removing the tank or the bed. I managed to lay under it and reach my arm around the tank and do it completely by feel. This may be an option for the K2 as well. On the GMT900, the fuel tank pressure sensor had no mounting hardware, it was just a grommet on the sensor that you press through the hole in the fuel tank header plate. All I had to do was unhook the electrical connector and pry the sensor out of the bushing.
I have a set of 17” to run in the winter and the 20” that came on the truck stock. I’m quite confident that the 17” gives a more compliant ride over small road imperfections (think cracks in pavement). Another benefit of the smaller wheel is that you really don’t have to worry at all about curbing the rim because the smaller wheels have enough tire sidewall that the tire takes the brunt of any contact.
Sounds like you are switching between V4 and V8 modes. The TC unlocks for each transition between the two as I’ve noticed this on my truck too. Watch the Fuel Economy screen in your truck on your next drive. It should have an indicator for V4 and V8. I bet that moments after you see the “flare”, you’ll see a shift from V4 to V8 or vice versa.
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